First box build and need help

[Cfraley]

I am new so having to post this question here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am building my first box mod which is a dual 650 parallel with a mosfet. I have tries several things but every time I put a battery in it auto fires. There is no metal touching the enclosure from what I can tell. I am thinking it must be an issue with the switch, resistor (15k) or N channel mosfet. I have attached some pics but please let me know if there are other pictures needed. also please excuse the soldering job as it was my first time.

 

[Jwaterski]

Sorry, can't help other than a bump! And welcome!!

 

[beastn]

Ur mosfet might not work.or maybe it looks like on ur switch it might b touching ground.or negative.if u r new im wondering y first build a box mod instead of a simple mod?dont get me wrong but it does look nice.maybe u should try checking ur resister.

 

[VapinMark]

A flux capacitor is never wrong. 1.1 gigawatts is hard to come by though.

 

[Cfraley]

Oh sorry, new to ecf but have been Vaping for a year now. Thanks and will look into those

 

[Norrin]

Hi, really hard to make out what you have done, if you do a diagram of your circuit so it can be checked. But it's probably a short somewhere so use your DMM and check nothing is shorted.
You would be better with some shrinkwrap on the mosfet too

 

[Cfraley]

Thank you! Shrink-wrap was removed for pic. I know to put the mm on ohm but not entirely sure where to place pos and neg leads and what reading will indicate a short? Sorry for all the questions but really appreciate the help!

 

[Norrin]

When testing ohms you don't have a pos and neg just 2 leads that can be either way round. If you have one that has a test function there will be like a diode symbol and/or a note symbol and it will make a noise when you have a short otherwise you are looking for zero or a low reading, actually anything other than infinite is bad.
Now place 1 lead on the box (make sure it's a good connection by touching another part of the box with other lead) and now test everything and see what is connected to the box. Once you have done this report and me or someone will tell you what's next.

 

[VapinMark]

My post was meant to be funny, Steam Engine | free vaping calculators vapecalc.com Battery Safety and Ohm's Law - onVaping Battery mAh & C Rating = amp Calculator Add up your numbers and divine your best.

 

[rchrd]

You might want to wrap your source and gate coming off of the MOSFET. The only one that is not wrapped is the drain, since it is grounded to the box itself. I've been told that if any part of the source touches the box you'll get an auto fire.

I was going to post a diagram and a picture of my most recent box where I wrapped the gate and source but since I'm so new I can't post links yet.

Good luck getting it sorted out!

 

[lucky_x16]

can you post pictures of the firing button outside the box, and a better angle of the connection to the 510 pin?

 

[lucky_x16]

Okay looks like you completely bypassed the switch. Your positive it up on the battery mount correct?
If so there should be two wires running from the top of the carriage in stead of one. Insulate your switch so there is no chance of accidental ground, run one insulated wire from both positives on top to the switch, and then run another wire from the switch to the positive on your 510 connector.

With out clearer pictures, that is what I am seeing.

 

[Cfraley]

Thanks again for all the great info! I'm currently testing the connections with my cheap mm (may need to get a better one) . The wire going from source pin to neg battery is insulated but it is no doubt touching the metal enclosure. So even if insulated, it will still auto fire if it is touching the metal enclosure?

 

[Cfraley]

OK, here are some more pics. There is a wire connecting the two positives on the sled. Then a one wire is soldered to the connecting wire and the top switch lead. The bottom switch lead is wired to the gate on the mosfet. I know the pic shows the 510 disconnected as I was about to redo that. I may just need to pull all out and start over because it's getting messy in there. The good news is that it is not auto firing anymore but unfortunately is not firing at all (so a bypass of the switch makes sense) . Here's my remaining connections.. Please let me know if any of these are incorrect. 510 connected to wire that connects my 2 positives on the sleds, source is connected to one of the negative son the sled (both negatives on sled connected by another wire), drain is connected to outside section of 510.

 

[Cfraley]

Well can't put more pics in for some reason

 

[lucky_x16]

okay take off the positive wires.
Run one positive wire from the 510 to the push button side pole
Run the second positive from the other push button side pole.
It still appeared you had a positive wire running straight to the 510 which meant it stayed hot.
Just a suggestion? if you replace the tires tin them before attempting to redo the job, It will make your soldering connections much easier.

 

[Cfraley]

OK so pos wire from 510 to button, other pos wire going from other button side pole to positive wire that connects the two positives on battery sled.. Right? And what does the wire from gate on mosfet connect to?

 

[edyle]

That black wire at the bottom of the pic is touching the case, so it's bypassing the switch.


Use the metal case as your negative. Connect the negative of the battery to the case, and anything that needs negative, connect it to the case.
Connec the positive from the battery to the switch input, and connect the switch output to the 510 center pin.

 

[dc99]

Gate goes to other side of the switch. Source to neg of battery sled. Drain to neg of the 510. I cant see the 15k resister between the gate and source. Without it it wont shut off. At the very least wrap the gate and source.

 

[gandymarsh]

Just thought I'd post this diagram in hopes that it will help.