First rebuildable atomizer, any advice is appreciated.

[Elmasryahmed]

Hi all, just received 2 Russian clones from FT to check how is it gonna work for me, now they r just soaked in a warm soapy water to clean it up,
checked a lot of threads here for different builds, I plan a single coil @1.5 ohms (not sure if I'll use 28 or dual 32 twisted kanthal),
I remember reading that after connecting the coil to lift it up a little bit above the air hole, need some advice about DO and DONT'S, any tricks to Handel it, any help is much appreciated to avoid my usual way of try and error .

 

[MattyTny]

Once you secure you're base on a mod or a ohm reader, mount the coil with the leads in opposite directions, leads coming off the bottom of the coil. Wrap the leads around the screw one at a time time holding the coil(still on wrapping device) in place. You want to wrap the lead in the same direction you screw down the block screw so it doesn't push out. Once both leads are mounted lift the coil ~0.5-1.5mm, I find that less space is better. Remove your wrapping device and test fire as any RBA.

Wicking with enough to just touch the juice deck. Don't leave your tails extra puffy, it will taste over saturated. Make sure you don't get any fibers caught in the chamber section, unless you want to pull the tails up, secure the chamber, trim then tuck. Both methods work.

People have success on a diagonal coil and a coil running parallel to the juice channels

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tutorials/503153-kayfun-3-1-microcoil-cotton-guide.html

This thread can be used as a guide. Also if you feel up to it you can research vertical coil builds.
Hope this helps

 

[roxynoodle]

I learned the wicking from this video. Only thing I do differently is cut my wick tails even with the top of the chimney cylinder.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8OSPnBDGQJc

 

[TrollDragon]

Once you secure you're base on a mod or a ohm reader, mount the coil with the leads in opposite directions, leads coming off the bottom of the coil. Wrap the leads around the screw one at a time time holding the coil(still on wrapping device) in place. You want to wrap the lead in the same direction you screw down the block screw so it doesn't push out. Once both leads are mounted lift the coil ~0.5-1.5mm, I find that less space is better. Remove your wrapping device and test fire as any RBA.

Wicking with enough to just touch the juice deck. Don't leave your tails extra puffy, it will taste over saturated. Make sure you don't get any fibers caught in the chamber section, unless you want to pull the tails up, secure the chamber, trim then tuck. Both methods work.

People have success on a diagonal coil and a coil running parallel to the juice channels.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tutorials/503153-kayfun-3-1-microcoil-cotton-guide.html

This thread can be used as a guide. Also if you feel up to it you can research vertical coil builds.
Hope this helps

I built my first coil on my 3.1 using the instructions on the above linked thread, very easy and a great way to start.

 

[illregal]

I recommend buying extra wire (I use 28 on my kayfun). Because even when you get it right.. And that coil would last you a while, you're gonna want to pull it off and start over just for the hell of it.

 

[Elmasryahmed]

Once you secure you're base on a mod or a ohm reader, mount the coil with the leads in opposite directions, leads coming off the bottom of the coil. Wrap the leads around the screw one at a time time holding the coil(still on wrapping device) in place. You want to wrap the lead in the same direction you screw down the block screw so it doesn't push out. Once both leads are mounted lift the coil ~0.5-1.5mm, I find that less space is better. Remove your wrapping device and test fire as any RBA.

Wicking with enough to just touch the juice deck. Don't leave your tails extra puffy, it will taste over saturated. Make sure you don't get any fibers caught in the chamber section, unless you want to pull the tails up, secure the chamber, trim then tuck. Both methods work.

People have success on a diagonal coil and a coil running parallel to the juice channels

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tutorials/503153-kayfun-3-1-microcoil-cotton-guide.html

This thread can be used as a guide. Also if you feel up to it you can research vertical coil builds.
Hope this helps

Thanks a lot, I was looking for this thread, already built both @1.5 ohms with different diameter 2 &1.6 mm, the 1.6 has a burnt taste ( I guess it's a wicking problem) as I wick it with less cotton than the other one ( to check which is better), but both vape production are not that great, the clones I got has a wide juice feeding chamber, I remember seeing a thread about it that the wick shall go in the chamber which I did, will rewick both and check.

 

[Elmasryahmed]

I learned the wicking from this video. Only thing I do differently is cut my wick tails even with the top of the chimney cylinder.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8OSPnBDGQJc

I guess this is my answer for the burnt taste, thanks.

 

[Elmasryahmed]

I recommend buying extra wire (I use 28 on my kayfun). Because even when you get it right.. And that coil would last you a while, you're gonna want to pull it off and start over just for the hell of it.

Already got 28, 30 &32, 100ft each, I guess it's more than enough for now

 

[shortdraw]

Keep it simple. I followed one of the youtube videos and it has been performing very well from the get go. The only real issue I had was an awful metallic flavor at first. I had to completely strip it and run it through the ultrasonic cleaner in acetone to remove residual machine oil. 10 wraps of 28g Kanthol, Japanese cotton trimmed flush with the bottom of the feed deck, and coil parallel with the channels was just right. I believe the coil measured 1.6ohms and I can chain vape pretty impressive clouds without any dry hits, flooding, or leaks.

 

[Elmasryahmed]

Here's one of the builds that has a burnt taste

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[Elmasryahmed]

Rewicked both and vape great, thanks everyone.

 

[logun]

My advice to use 28 gauge of wire and to build at least 1 Ohn coil 1.5mm in diameter. This coil will perform good with 10 watts of power. For more vapor production the Russian has to be modified by grinding juice wells, adding air supply, and building larger diameter coil about 2mm+.
Also, you have to mention which mod you use with your Russians. For instance I use I taste MVP mod and coil is only 1mm in diameter 0.9 Ohm which will burn with Istick even on its low settings.

 

[Zombo]

Here's one of the builds that has a burnt taste

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That looks like too much wick, the juice channels should be clear. Or..does the Russian work differently from the Kayfun (it looks similar in style)?

If you block up the juice channels, it won't wick fast enough and you'll get a burnt taste.

ETA: oh, I see you already solved that problem.

 

[Elmasryahmed]

My advice to use 28 gauge of wire and to build at least 1 Ohn coil 1.5mm in diameter. This coil will perform good with 10 watts of power. For more vapor production the Russian has to be modified by grinding juice wells, adding air supply, and building larger diameter coil about 2mm+.
Also, you have to mention which mod you use with your Russians. For instance I use I taste MVP mod and coil is only 1mm in diameter 0.9 Ohm which will burn with Istick even on its low settings.

This coil is 1.6mm @1.5 ohm, I used twisted 32g kanthal, while the other is 2mm diameter with same resistance, and I'm using Itaste SVD and provari p3.


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[Elmasryahmed]

Wicking with enough to just touch the juice deck. Don't leave your tails extra puffy, it will taste over saturated. Make sure you don't get any fibers caught in the chamber section, unless you want to pull the tails up, secure the chamber, trim then tuck. Both methods work.

I built one with the wick tucked in the juice channel all the way ( the clone I got has a deep juice channel ), second one I pulled the tail up with some puffiness on it then tuck it in after securing the chamber,
Both builds vapor production are good ( at least for me) but the flavor is way over saturated, I really can't vape it,
Any suggestion for this issue.


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[wshanncap]

From the picture it looks like you have the wick in the feed channels. I tried it that way and got lots of dry hits. I keep my cotton flush with the upper deck in the chamber. It seems to wick better that way for me.

 

[Elmasryahmed]

That looks like too much wick, the juice channels should be clear. Or..does the Russian work differently from the Kayfun (it looks similar in style)?

If you block up the juice channels, it won't wick fast enough and you'll get a burnt taste.

ETA: oh, I see you already solved that problem.

From the picture it looks like you have the wick in the feed channels. I tried it that way and got lots of dry hits. I keep my cotton flush with the upper deck in the chamber. It seems to wick better that way for me.

Actually this clone has much deeper channels than the original one, i saw it somewhere and it's wicking fine.


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[MattyTny]

My advice to use 28 gauge of wire and to build at least 1 Ohn coil 1.5mm in diameter. This coil will perform good with 10 watts of power. For more vapor production the Russian has to be modified by grinding juice wells, adding air supply, and building larger diameter coil about 2mm+.
Also, you have to mention which mod you use with your Russians. For instance I use I taste MVP mod and coil is only 1mm in diameter 0.9 Ohm which will burn with Istick even on its low settings.

I agree, the 28 gauge would be a better choice for hitting your target resistance. Since you're building for the SVD and P3 you would want to target 1.5-1.7ohms for the SVD and for the P3 I wouldn't go down past 1.0ohm. Your coil's internal diameter range should be around 1.5mm-2.0mm. I use 14 and 16 gauge blunt syringe tips that give 2.11mm and 1.65mm in diameter respectively. I build similarly for my MVP2.

From the picture it looks like your wick could be improved. What are you using to wick with? I've had success with kohgendo cotton and rayon. Kohgendo is really easy to work with. I I wouldn't take the kayfun past 15, unless you start experimenting with some different builds/wicking. If you are using kohgendo, cut the pad along with the fibers and you can wick it without twisting it or rolling it.

I'll show you an example of an RDA I wicked aimed to function on the MVP2. I build the coil with 28 gauge on the 14 gauge syringe needle.

You don't need much cotton, just cut the length, and twist the tip to help thread it through. When pulling it through keep some tension on the other tail and you should feel some resistance, not too much. When you juice it it will expand, and since you still have the rectangle shape of the wick you have a nice wide tail that will drape across the kayfun deck covering more space and not obstructing the juice channel.

Although this is not in the kayfun, you can still see how the cotton expands. When looking toward the inside of the coil you'll see no gaps present between the coil and the wick.

You could also check out some builds that use vertical coils, you could take the the kayfun up more that way.

 

[Elmasryahmed]

I agree, the 28 gauge would be a better choice for hitting your target resistance. Since you're building for the SVD and P3 you would want to target 1.5-1.7ohms for the SVD and for the P3 I wouldn't go down past 1.0ohm. Your coil's internal diameter range should be around 1.5mm-2.0mm. I use 14 and 16 gauge blunt syringe tips that give 2.11mm and 1.65mm in diameter respectively. I build similarly for my MVP2.

From the picture it looks like your wick could be improved. What are you using to wick with? I've had success with kohgendo cotton and rayon. Kohgendo is really easy to work with. I I wouldn't take the kayfun past 15, unless you start experimenting with some different builds/wicking. If you are using kohgendo, cut the pad along with the fibers and you can wick it without twisting it or rolling it.

I'll show you an example of an RDA I wicked aimed to function on the MVP2. I build the coil with 28 gauge on the 14 gauge syringe needle.

You don't need much cotton, just cut the length, and twist the tip to help thread it through. When pulling it through keep some tension on the other tail and you should feel some resistance, not too much. When you juice it it will expand, and since you still have the rectangle shape of the wick you have a nice wide tail that will drape across the kayfun deck covering more space and not obstructing the juice channel.

Although this is not in the kayfun, you can still see how the cotton expands. When looking toward the inside of the coil you'll see no gaps present between the coil and the wick.

You could also check out some builds that use vertical coils, you could take the the kayfun up more that way.

I'm using organic cotton to wick my kayfun, will rebuild it using 28G and post back, I'd one coil warped on 1.6 mm diameter and the other on 2mm, thinking of wrapping on 2.5mm with 28g so I'll have a thicker wick to mute the flavor a bit as it's too saturated.


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[Elmasryahmed]

Now a new issue appeared, I left it laying on its side, as soon as I picked it up to vape, it starts to gurgle and then it leaked almost all the tank from the air hole, is it normal or it's something to do with the build?!!!!


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