Fistpack-ish 26650 DNA20 Mod

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bapgood

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I decide this beauty needed its own thread.

It's beauty isn't necessarily it's external appearance, but its form and functionality.

The 26650 is kind of a brute and the mod is noticeably stout and hefty, but not overwhelmingly so.

This is basically a test of concept so I wasn't to concerned with the appearance. So far I'm loving the size and shape.




Here are some more pics and answers to some of the questions.

d9...you asked how the battery cap turned out. I think it turned out pretty dang good for a novice lathe user.





Before someone points out that the battery is in upside down and I'm going to fry my dna, it is in that way intentionally (not that it's not totally like me to eff something up).

I did the battery upside down so I could share the 510 connection body ground with the battery ground to save some space as well as one less wire to run. The below pic is of the backside of the 510 connection, after the epoxy cured I sanded down the epoxy so the negative end of the battery contacts brass hex, as well as soldered a wire to the hex to run to the DNA.



Since I am a novice with my lathe and aluminum is cheap and easy to work with, I used it for the battery cap. But you can't really solder aluminum, so how did I run a wire for the positive battery connection? You use alumiweld from harbor freight to weld/braze on a piece of brass so you can solder it. The below pic shows the brass piece brazed on and then solder tinned. I just used a butane torch, but a smaller rod or more heat would have made things easier.

If I make another one I will do a brass threaded sleeve in side the plastic and then a brass or stainless cap.



asdaq here are some dims for you, and just to get you ready for your upcoming US visit they are in inches :D










For size reference....ccts in 18490



 
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bapgood

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Thanks everyone for the praise here and PM's!!!

This was just a proof of concept the 3D I have access to is great for this type of stuff, but the finish takes a lot of work to get to an acceptable appearance IMO. Which is why I leave it rough.

I really like how this turned out and will be having shapeways print a similar version, which should then look truly professional with much less work. (Ugg the 2+ week wait is going to kill me though :D)

After that is up in the air.
 

asdaq

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Bap, how does the durablty compare between your 3D printed and Shapeways' fabrication? I had a Monday Morning Fumble with my birdhouse mod from the desk to a wooden floor, and though tumbled a lot and knocked off the relatively loose topcap, luckily everything survived. But as you might well know, it does survive until it doesn't.
 

bapgood

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Bap, how does the durablty compare between your 3D printed and Shapeways' fabrication? I had a Monday Morning Fumble with my birdhouse mod from the desk to a wooden floor, and though tumbled a lot and knocked off the relatively loose topcap, luckily everything survived. But as you might well know, it does survive until it doesn't.

It is plastic so it won't be as durable as metal. The plastic we are currently using is PLA, its a kind of organic plastic. It seems a little softer and more pliable than something like ABS, but we still haven't received our ABS so I haven't been able to print the same thing in each.

Shapeways doesn't offer up their exact material used. The SLS process they use, uses a powder, so I assume they have their own custom blend. And since I haven't actually ordered anything from them, I'm not real sure how it compares.

I'm sure inevitably I well drop this mod and the shapeways when I get it, but as of right now....no drops.....wood....wood....:D
 
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