Flash-e-Vapor V2 rba by Artur Schwarze

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mudram99

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With the Google Chrome browser I can get foreign languages translated into English. But sometimes technical terms don't come out right. For example, "rebuildable atomizer" in German becomes "self-winding evaporator"!

Actually that is a very fitting transalatory description. You yourself wind the coil, and if you do it right, it will evaporate the bejesus outta your juice. ;)
 

Zakillah

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Just for the record, I didnt mean to say the Lemo is bad. I own two of them and yeah they work just fine.
However, the FeV gives me a better vape with alot less hassle.
The only thing the Lemo does "better" is that it's more open draw.
I plan to drill a 2nd airhole in a FeV clone to make an open draw, dual coil flashy. I bet it will outperform the Lemo by far, hell, it tops it already even with single coil and tighter draw.

What kinda builds do you guys use on your flashies?
I'm currently running a parallel V2A steel wire 0,3mm, 2,5mm diameter coil, 9 wraps (yeah, it's big), 0,5 Ohm, at 20-30W.
 
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jaxgator

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I only build with nickel anymore. Here's my current build. Dual strand twisted 30g, 9 wraps, 3mm ID.

flashe6.jpg
 

JeremyR

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Hey guys been kinda slow here, so I thought I should bring some of these posts over from the rayon thread..


Is the right version like the one from FT below? Arrows show "pin" and where pin locates- is this what you referred to above? The other sku at FT has the same type pin but brass posts. I'm guessing that's not the best type.


View attachment 425061

I think the one from focalecig looks good- has a plastic tank which I like so I can see liquid level. $26.17 Flash e-Vapor V3 Style Rebuildable Atomizer - Silver

Then there's two from gearbest (I have used GB and had no probs), one has the plastic tank and is $16.00: http://www.gearbest.com/electronic-cigarettes/pp_136754.html. The other one is $18.00 also w/clear tank, don't know what the difference between them is. http://www.gearbest.com/electronic-cigarettes/pp_137306.html


cobalt,

That pin is the way the originals are made. Under the "Discussions" tab on your first link someone posted that one is not a hotcig clone but anyone can post anything there. I'd email them and ask first.

I bought my V3 hotcig from focal --> Flash e-Vapor V3 Styled Rebuildable Atomizer by Hotcig It's the 22.9mm size and very well made, there is a review of this one on youtube where the fellow say's it's the best clone and he swaps parts from the clone to the original to show how they are identical.

Focal also has the VS 17mm hotcig clone on sale for $15.80 right now here --> Flash e Vapor VS Style Rebuildable Atomizer by Hotcig I've got to get my order in before they are gone! :)

If focal has stuff made by hotcig they state it in the listings.


I have the Focal Flash V3 clone and you have to watch out for 2 things.

1st - oring seal isn't the greatest. With my authentic, I can pick my mod up by the drip tip and everything stays together. On the clone, if I pick it up this way, I end up only lifting the flash-e chamber and my mod and Flash deck fall off.

2nd, I was able to easily unscrew the base. With everything together, I was able to turn and unscrew the base. The "notch" allows for easy turning. Cant do this on my authentic, though haven't tried too hard. But with clone did this without much effort.

A buddy bought the FT one and everything was the same, except this base unscrewing - his seemed snug (and the blue bag / different screwdriver included)


Also, there is an advantage to the non 1:1 with the backward notch. With the Authentic (and 1:1), you can use the tank on other 22mm drippers. With the non 1:1, you can use the Flash-E deck with any (most) 22mm dripper caps


Is the right version like the one from FT below? Arrows show "pin" and where pin locates- is this what you referred to above? The other sku at FT has the same type pin but brass posts. I'm guessing that's not the best type.


View attachment 425061


I think the one from focalecig looks good- has a plastic tank which I like so I can see liquid level. $26.17 Flash e-Vapor V3 Style Rebuildable Atomizer - Silver

Then there's two from gearbest (I have used GB and had no probs), one has the plastic tank and is $16.00: http://www.gearbest.com/electronic-cigarettes/pp_136754.html. The other one is $18.00 also w/clear tank, don't know what the difference between them is. http://www.gearbest.com/electronic-cigarettes/pp_137306.html


cobalt,

That pin is the way the originals are made. Under the "Discussions" tab on your first link someone posted that one is not a hotcig clone but anyone can post anything there. I'd email them and ask first.

I bought my V3 hotcig from focal --> Flash e-Vapor V3 Styled Rebuildable Atomizer by Hotcig It's the 22.9mm size and very well made, there is a review of this one on youtube where the fellow say's it's the best clone and he swaps parts from the clone to the original to show how they are identical.

Focal also has the VS 17mm hotcig clone on sale for $15.80 right now here --> Flash e Vapor VS Style Rebuildable Atomizer by Hotcig I've got to get my order in before they are gone! :)

If focal has stuff made by hotcig they state it in the listings.

Yeah the quality fit and finish is definitely better with authentic. But at a much higher cost of course. I put some Teflon under the base orings. That tightened them up haven't touched it for about a year.
We should probably discuss this in the fev by Artur thread, maybe repost that there? Good info.

Oh, I personally have to have full stainless tank, I don't want any broken window crap from dropping.

Please discuss in the fev thread, it need this knkwledge.. this one is the largest and most complete fev thread.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...or-v2-rba-artur-schwarze-12.html#post15539510
 
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JeremyR

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Is mesh used through the deck? And if mesh is used, has anyone tried using nickel mesh? I can't help but to think it'd be WAY easier to work with.

No but thinks for bringing it up, when you said that in the rayon thread, I immediately thought of ..

It should work just the same, as long as it will hold its shape with enough spring.. Or not you can compensate probably, should be good.
 

JeremyR

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I took this video of rolling the straws one day.. I'll post it for the heck of it..

Rolled in 30sec. Went a little off using one hand to hold phone and record. After that you just adjust the tightness in the holes by rolling a little tighter or rolling the opposite way to loosen. Pressure is only applied in the direction you want it to roll tighter or looser.

350 ss mesh used

 

dems86

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I took this video of rolling the straws one day.. I'll post it for the heck of it..

Rolled in 30sec. Went a little off using one hand to hold phone and record. After that you just adjust the tightness in the holes by rolling a little tighter or rolling the opposite way to loosen. Pressure is only applied in the direction you want it to roll tighter or looser.

350 ss mesh used


About 30mm in length would you say?
 

JeremyR

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Well, I think I had an issue last week when I made that video.. I had a bad taste from that mesh and ended up having to clean it.

I think either there was some manufacturing residue or something from my hands... I ended up burning it off and rinsing in water. Alcohol and rinsing would possibly do the same..

I'm not 100% sure what the problem was but it was good after I cleaned the mesh.

Also one thing to look out for when they are new is a piece if the wire coming loose and touching the coil. This is rare but can happen but will only happen once. Depends on how you cut it I guess.
 
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JeremyR

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Oh noooo...

Do I have to use mesh for the feeders or can I use Rayon?
I don't have any mesh and if I do need it, what type should I attempt to locate here in Canada for the VS?


I tried and tried, it can be ok, but mesh is best... I'm using 350 ss but opinions vary.

You need enough gap for the air to get back into the tank. I did get a small piece of rayon to work somewhat, depending on your power level, but not as good as mesh. 15w you can probably use fiber but 15+ you really need mesh for reliable performance IMO.

Jax had good results with the ortman fiber I think because its braided it hold its shape to keep a small gap.

Based on that I have an idea for fiber, if you wrap kanthal around it, well spaced out, to keep it from expanding, at a size that is decently smaller than the holes. Just around the part that will be in the ports, then leave the ends loose They will expand and keep it from falling out.

Basically it will look like you just wicked a spaced coil. Make the length the same as the juice holes depth.

A piece of silica may work, you just have to have a good gap so air can get back up to the tank. Then they fall out. You could try to fray the inside end to keep it from falling or do a kanthal wrap.

But mesh is so much better, for me but the wrap idea may work great. Ymmv
 
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TrollDragon

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I tried and tried, it can be ok, but mesh is best... I'm using 350 ss but opinions vary.

You need enough gap for the air to get back into the tank. I did get a small piece of rayon to work somewhat, depending on your power level, but not as good as mesh. 15w you can probably use fiber but 15+ you really need mesh for reliable performance IMO.

Jax had good results with the ortman fiber I think because its braided it hold its shape to keep a small gap.

Based on that I have an idea for fiber, if you wrap kanthal around it, well spaced out, to keep it from expanding, at a size that is decently smaller than the holes. Just around the part that will be in the ports, then leave the ends loose They will expand and keep it from falling out.

Basically it will look like you just wicked a spaced coil. Make the length the same as the juice holes depth.

A piece of silica may work, you just have to have a good gap so air can get back up to the tank. Then they fall out. You could try to fray the inside end to keep it from falling or do a kanthal wrap.

But mesh is so much better, for me but the wrap idea may work great. Ymmv

Thanks Jeremy.
I'll go hunting for some mesh before the VS gets here.
 
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