Flat tops... You have failed me.

[zmauls]

Though everything was working okay, my button was sticking when I pressed it down, so I went and I took the top portion of my Grand apart and noticed my button has melted a bit. I'm kinda like "...?" So I tried adjusting some stuff. Now my flat tops aren't firing. Period. I also seem to be getting a really weak fire from my button tops.


Some help? As of right now my Reo is useless.

Note: I have tried taking it apart and putting it back together like six times.

 

[Norman Clature]

Did your spring (at the bottom) collapse? How does it look?

 

[Raynman]

It sounds like things got a little hot in there. I had this happen and instead of replacing the firing button I placed an old school thumb tack on the end of the button. File your pin or at least make sure the pin isn't oxidized. Look at the firing pin when you press the button and see if it is making contact as it should. If it is falling short of making good contact there is your problem. The old school thumb tack will give you extra throw on your button and help make the circuit complete. Also look to make sure the business end of the firing pin isn't bent. You might have been putting too much pressure on the firing pin thus making you a button masher. Many of us have done that especially me. There is a reason AW IMR 18650 batteries are recommended it is because the Reo was designed using this battery. Dump your flat tops and use the right battery. Keep your mod clean wash it weekly. I use the Noalox on the top of the battery not the firing pin itself. This causes the pin to always be under the Noalox when firing and when under the Noalox it is out of an oxygen atmosphere and because of that there will be no oxidation.

ETA the bottom spring might need replaced as mentioned above.

 

[m3nace]

It sounds like things got a little hot in there. I had this happen and instead of replacing the firing button I placed an old school thumb tack on the end of the button. File your pin or at least make sure the pin isn't oxidized. Look at the firing pin when you press the button and see if it is making contact as it should. If it is falling short of making good contact there is your problem. The old school thumb tack will give you extra throw on your button and help make the circuit complete. Also look to make sure the business end of the firing pin isn't bent. You might have been putting too much pressure on the firing pin thus making you a button masher. Many of us have done that especially me. There is a reason AW IMR 18650 batteries are recommended it is because the Reo was designed using this battery. Dump your flat tops and use the right battery. Keep your mod clean wash it weekly. I use the Noalox on the top of the battery not the firing pin itself. This causes the pin to always be under the Noalox when firing and when under the Noalox it is out of an oxygen atmosphere and because of that there will be no oxidation.

ETA the bottom spring might need replaced as mentioned above.

Started putting noalax on my buttontop and fires perfectly without having to file the firing pin

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[zmauls]

It sounds like things got a little hot in there. I had this happen and instead of replacing the firing button I placed an old school thumb tack on the end of the button. File your pin or at least make sure the pin isn't oxidized. Look at the firing pin when you press the button and see if it is making contact as it should. If it is falling short of making good contact there is your problem. The old school thumb tack will give you extra throw on your button and help make the circuit complete. Also look to make sure the business end of the firing pin isn't bent. You might have been putting too much pressure on the firing pin thus making you a button masher. Many of us have done that especially me. There is a reason AW IMR 18650 batteries are recommended it is because the Reo was designed using this battery. Dump your flat tops and use the right battery. Keep your mod clean wash it weekly. I use the Noalox on the top of the battery not the firing pin itself. This causes the pin to always be under the Noalox when firing and when under the Noalox it is out of an oxygen atmosphere and because of that there will be no oxidation.

ETA the bottom spring might need replaced as mentioned above.

My brother:

I have always felt as though my flat tops fire better than my button tops. Seeing as my flat tops are 2900 mah and my button tops are 2000 mah, this is probably true.

I have, however, fixed the problem. I used a pair of needle nose pliers and bent the end of the connector (the one coming out from the tube). I always apply Noalox to my battery tops... especially after my first filing about a week ago. Regardless, bending the connector fixed the problem completely. And I see now, I am, indeed, a button masher. I will no longer apply my thumb to the firing button as if my thumb were Thor's hammer and the button was the Hulk's face (see Avengers, 2012).

Thanks all. I learned something today.

 

[Raynman]

Only too glad to help. Just paying it forward. Reoville has been very very good to me. (Garret Morris old SNL) Glad you've got it back to working. Enjoy my brother.

 

[Joe A]

Use a rare earth magnet on the flat tops for a solid connection. Magnetic Spacer - 1.6mm

 

[buckethead]

As a newer Reo owner, I'm curious if you bent the point on the firing pin? Or the brass connection that the tube attaches to?

 

[zmauls]

As a newer Reo owner, I'm curious if you bent the point on the firing pin? Or the brass connection that the tube attaches to?

I'd reply with a picture, but I'm going to sleep soon. Instead, here's a crappy drawing.

 

[Raynman]

I believe he was referring to the firing pin towards the tube not toward the tip of it. Don't try to bend the brass connection it might not make it and you'll have to but a new one.

Also Z the Mah isn't exactly what you're looking for on a mechanical mod the amps delivered to the coil will matter more. The AW 18650 1600 Mah will deliver 24 amps to the coil whereas the AW 18650 2000Mah only delivers 10 amps. High Mah will last longer between charges but will not deliver the punch. Use the 1600 AWs for sub ohm vaping you'll taste the difference.

 

[Justice]

Raynman is exactly right high MAH doesn't mean more power delivered to the atty the other thing is using flat tops buggers the firing pin on the Reo it over stresses it weakening it and later breaking it the mod was designed for an AW IMR Batt would you put the wrong batt in your brand new car just because it has a prettier colour to it ?? even better why not just bypass the battery on your car and use an extension cord fro the house to start it 120 volts is better than 12 right ? and I can just see a harley rolling down the road with an 8D deep cycle batt on it

 

[zmauls]

I believe he was referring to the firing pin towards the tube not toward the tip of it. Don't try to bend the brass connection it might not make it and you'll have to but a new one.

Also Z the Mah isn't exactly what you're looking for on a mechanical mod the amps delivered to the coil will matter more. The AW 18650 1600 Mah will deliver 24 amps to the coil whereas the AW 18650 2000Mah only delivers 10 amps. High Mah will last longer between charges but will not deliver the punch. Use the 1600 AWs for sub ohm vaping you'll taste the difference.

I think I am confused.

How did you come to this conclusion?

Where can I find the amps delivered by a specific battery?

As I said, my flat tops deliver a much heavier punch than my button tops.

My flat tops are Panasonic 3.7v 2900 mAh, and my button tops are Efest 3.7v 2000 mAh.

If mAh is mille-Amps/hour, then how could a 1600 mAh deliver more punch than a 2900 mAh, if both are listed at 3.7v?

Edit: And to whoever said something about the color being significant... Come on now, that's just silly. My preference is based on the vape I'm getting, not the color of my battery (which is hidden by any mod I use, anyway.)

 

[Justice]

AW IMR

18650 2000mah 10Amp CDR
18650 1600mah 24A
18490 (1100mah) 16.5A
18350 ​(700mah) 6A
MNKE IMR

18650 1500mah ​20A
Panasonic ​or Orbtronic hybrid

CGR18650CH (IMR/hybrid) 2250mAh 10A
NCR18650PF (LiNiCOMnO2) INR/ICR/IMR Hybrid 2900mAh 10A
NCR18650PD (LiNiCoAl) 2900mAh 10A
Orbtronic 18650 SX22 (hybrid) 2000mAh 22A
Sanyo

UR18650EX 2000mAh 20A
Samsung hybrid (LiNiCoMnP)

INR18650-22P 2200mAh 10A
INR18650-20R 2000mah 22A
Sony hybrid

us18650v3 IMR 2250mAh 10A
us18650vct3 1600mAh 30A
us18650vtc4 2100 mAh 30A
EH IMR

18650 2000 mAh 16A
18650 1500 mAh 22A
18500 1100 mAh 8.8A
18350 800 mAh 6.4A
Efest IMR

18650 (IMR/hybrid) 2250mAh 10A
18650 2000mAh 10A
18650 1600mAh 30A
18490 1100mah 8.8A
18350 800mah 6.4A
.
The aw imrs put out more amps than your pannys. They also give a more even drain ie a more even vape to the end with a faster drop at the end of their charge. Besides the fact the Reo is intended to be used with the AW IMR batts so why not

 

[Raynman]

Mah is how long it will last nothing more. Amps delivered to the atty is what really matters. My AW IMR 18650 2000 mah doesn't have the punch as a my AW IMR 18650 1600 mah because the 2000 only delivers 10 amps to the atty the 1600 delivers 24 amps to the atty. After looking around a bit it seems your pannys deliver 10 amps while your efest delivers 5 amps. That is the difference you see. I'm not sure which pannys you have that's the one I found looking from the info you gave. Unless you have the very high dollar pannys that deliver 30 amps you will find that the AWs at 1600 will rock your world. As far as the above message Justice is making a very valid point. Anyone who has over 11,000 more posts than you probably knows something. You've already buggered up your firing pin by using the flat tops. So get the button tops designed for this mod AW 18650 1600 mah. I'll tell you what if you try them and don't like them I'll buy them off you. Use the right battery for the best mod. You won't be sorry.

 

[supertrunker]

i like my Orbtronic high drain buttontops - one will last all day at work, and i have taken to using Noalox on the firing pin and the battery top to stop arcing. This is on a new Grand, but i do the same on my old black one.
When i use flat-top batteries, my Samsungs and MNKEs, then i just put a magnet on top as Joe mentioned - Radio Shack sells them.

All my buttons (i must have melted about 8 when i was new at this game) are now modified by having a rivet head epoxied to them after i have filed them down flat again like this. Sequence runs left to right.



The reason i want the new firing pin is it will avoid a lot of this messing about.

T

 

[custom-classic]

Internal resistance (IR) of a battery determines how many amps can be delivered to your coil, along with the resistance of the mod itself, of course. AW IMR 1600mah batteries have significantly less IR than the batts you're using. Therefore, they can deliver more of their stored energy to the coil faster. Look at the the mah of a battery as how much gas you have in your tank and the IR as your carburetor. Having higher IR is like having smaller jets and will restrict the flow.

 

[zmauls]

Oh my God.

The last four posts were so unbelievable helpful.

Gonna order a couple batts off the Reo site... interestingly enough, I can't seem to find a better price.

 

[custom-classic]

Yes, the link to rtdvapor on Rob's site is definitely the place to get 'em. Best price I've found as well. I ordered two 1600mah 18650's last week. Took 3 days total to my mailbox.

 

[nerak]

Oh my God.

The last four posts were so unbelievable helpful.

Gonna order a couple batts off the Reo site... interestingly enough, I can't seem to find a better price.

Don't forget ECF5 for 5% off the already great price!

 

[Raynman]

Check RTD vapors and use Promo code ECF5 for a 5% discount. The site is down ATM pulling Maintenance. Shouldn't be long before they're back up. You might want a few battery cases too .... I picked up four of them.
Eta Karen got me. Is the discount the same on Reo site or just goes to RTD