What he said ... I've tried EVERYTHING and this is what works the best for me.
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What he said ... I've tried EVERYTHING and this is what works the best for me.
What about the chimney o-ring? On or Off? Mine was off. Now it is back on. Flood city.
I leave mine on and I do get a slight bit of flooding on refills, but invert and a couple of blows and it's all clear.
I can leave it off, as long as I get it nice and tight. When I have the right amount of cotton, I get a slight flood on initial fill, but I just blow it out back into the bottle.
Mine flooded half-way through a tank yesterday. Don't know what was going on, maybe I torqued or unscrewed some bit by accident. All I know is that I went to pick it up after a few hours away, and it was leaking out the air holes. Cleaned it (and my mod) up, inverted the Fogger overnight, and all has been well since.
Today it's my Ithaka. Temperamental Sonsofbritches!
Today it's my Ithaka. Temperamental Sonsofbritches!
24 pages in and I just picked up one of these new, unused on the Classifieds last week for $25. The title of this thread is correct. Its an amazing device for the price.
If you have read the entire thread you know that I Dremel out my wick slots using a 3.5 mm diamond bit. I then make a mini-coil (5/64" ID) and use cotton ball for wick, a very typical build that I put in lots of atomizers and the same as in the two Foggers that I sold in the classifieds. But on this 3rd Fogger I was having a problem with it not wicking well enough, it worked but the flavor was way off. Next I re-wicked it with less cotton, still not right.
So now I have a couple of Aqua's and since I can't see the juice level I went with silica.
Back to the Fogger, so I thought I'd try silica in this Fogger as I had not prior to today.
I used 3 mm with one strand removed, threaded it in with a little foil rollrd on the end, un-twisted it once installed, perfection.
I am by no means recommending silica over cotton, I'm just saying what I did.
So now I have a couple of Aqua's and since I can't see the juice level I went with silica.
Back to the Fogger, so I thought I'd try silica in this Fogger as I had not prior to today.
I used 3 mm with one strand removed, threaded it in with a little foil rollrd on the end, un-twisted it once installed, perfection.
I am by no means recommending silica over cotton, I'm just saying what I did.
Marking this. I like the 5/64 mini coils in my gennys with cotton yarn. I just rebuilt my fogger with a vertical coil and cotton. So far so good but I really don't like using cotton on inside builds that you can't fix on the run.
Do you have the silica sticking out much Craig or did you cut it flush?
Thanks to all for the tips and tricks. And an extra
to folkphys. Though I didn't use my "spare parts" - cut the nipple off of a carto "plug", then cut that silicone piece in half - that is exactly what solved the problem that I was having a week ago starting out with the Fogger V2. Mine has been working fine without any other modifications for about a week.
Who's got a good price on tanks without a arm and leg for shipping. The last place I saw that had them was around 14$ for tank and shipping. $6 more I can order a new one from ft and have extra parts.
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It's nothing no one else hasn't already done, but I've got a pretty killer sub-ohm micro coil in my Fogger V2 right now. Three wraps of 28 gauge kanthal with fluffy cotton wick. Reads 0.45 Ohm. Not using the build-well o-ring. Flooding on the initial fill, just a little bit.
Now I've got a really saturated, warm, thick vapor. I only use 6mg nicotine and I have to watch how often I hit because I get dizzy and nauseous from too much nicotine. Next build will be higher resistance. Even using 30 Amp-rated Sony batteries.... Still though, no heat anywhere. Not even in the base of the Fogger. I check the battery after every few hits just to be sure, and it's never warm. It's EATING batteries though....
Now I've got a really saturated, warm, thick vapor. I only use 6mg nicotine and I have to watch how often I hit because I get dizzy and nauseous from too much nicotine. Next build will be higher resistance. Even using 30 Amp-rated Sony batteries.... Still though, no heat anywhere. Not even in the base of the Fogger. I check the battery after every few hits just to be sure, and it's never warm. It's EATING batteries though....
Tried all setups mentioned here, but hemp fiber around a vertical coil (carto style) with a pull through each channel just enough to protrude out the channel is the best setup of them all for me, clouds and taste better then the Russian.
EDIT: To avoid flooding on refill, first close air flow, unscrew fill hole screw, remove top cap, fill, put the top cap back on and re-screw the fill hole. After putting it all back together, turn it upside down and let the liquid settle, while upside down, slowly open the air holes, wait a moment and turn it back right side up, watch till the air bubbles stop, then vape away. No dry hits and never a flood
EDIT: To avoid flooding on refill, first close air flow, unscrew fill hole screw, remove top cap, fill, put the top cap back on and re-screw the fill hole. After putting it all back together, turn it upside down and let the liquid settle, while upside down, slowly open the air holes, wait a moment and turn it back right side up, watch till the air bubbles stop, then vape away. No dry hits and never a flood
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Copied 'n pasted into my vape notes. This is what I sorta do anyway, only I didn't think to unscrew the air holes while it was upside down, and to turn it right side up and wait for the bubbles.
Great tips!
Great tips!
Anyone still needing a Fogger tank, venerablevaping has them for $4.99 In Stock as of this post, and has reasonable shipping, $7.54 to my door.
A note on builds, I sometimes get low saturation (flavor loss) hits on my Fogger, when this happens I've found letting the tank breathe by opening it cures the issues even on poorly wicked builds, Sometimes I'll even leave my fill screw completely out if I'm hitting hard, or chaining.
I think some variance between wicking differences from one build/Fogger, to another is the difference in how tightly your tank is sealed. I have two Foggers, one has a not so perfect seal on the O-ring around the chimney, it is a little more prone to Flooding, but has better saturation/wicking.
If I have any flooding at all tilting on the side and using it that way clears it pretty quickly, and no issues with gurgling, etc after that. I'm a VG juice user (as close to 100% as possible) so keep these things in mind when trying anything. My current typical build is a doubled or triple wick wrapped within various coils, single wick through the juice holes, and double or triple from that point to the coil. Works pretty nicely, flooding is almost nonexistent, taste, and vapor production is very nice.
A note on builds, I sometimes get low saturation (flavor loss) hits on my Fogger, when this happens I've found letting the tank breathe by opening it cures the issues even on poorly wicked builds, Sometimes I'll even leave my fill screw completely out if I'm hitting hard, or chaining.
I think some variance between wicking differences from one build/Fogger, to another is the difference in how tightly your tank is sealed. I have two Foggers, one has a not so perfect seal on the O-ring around the chimney, it is a little more prone to Flooding, but has better saturation/wicking.
If I have any flooding at all tilting on the side and using it that way clears it pretty quickly, and no issues with gurgling, etc after that. I'm a VG juice user (as close to 100% as possible) so keep these things in mind when trying anything. My current typical build is a doubled or triple wick wrapped within various coils, single wick through the juice holes, and double or triple from that point to the coil. Works pretty nicely, flooding is almost nonexistent, taste, and vapor production is very nice.
I just got a Fogger V2, short of reading through 96 pages in this thread, what is the best coil? All I have at the moment is 32 gage Kanthal, and I have 1mm, 2mm, & 3mm silica wick. Tried a prebuilt coil from FT and that is Cr@p on this. Also have the mesh that came with it, but never used mesh. If the thread was shorter I would just read through it, but is a little long at 96 pages. Thanks for the help.
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I just got a Fogger V2, short of reading through 96 pages in this thread, what is the best coil? All I have at the moment is 32 gage Kanthal, and I have 1mm, 2mm, & 3mm silica wick. Tried a prebuilt coil from FT and that is Cr@p on this. Also have the mesh that came with it, but never used mesh. If the thread was shorter I would just read through it, but is a little long at 96 pages. Thanks for the help.
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As a few here have recently suggested, maybe try doubling or tripling the 2mm for the coil, and then just have a single piece of wick coming out of the wick holes.
I'm confused. I Have to unscrew the top cap (that holds the drip tip) to get to the fill hole screw. What top cap are you talking about? Or are there different versions? Mine is supposed to be a v2
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