For those who have rebuilt stock Subtank coils

Status
Not open for further replies.

Bakseated1

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 23, 2012
224
356
Pa
I gave it a shot last night following Rips tutorial. He used 26 gauge 5 wraps I believe for about 1 ohm

All I had was 24 and 28 so I went with the 24. It got late and I was tired but I think I went with 7 or 8 wraps with a screw driver the size of the hole in the coil. Came out to about .7.

Have to say. It's very muted flavor wise. Clouds are pretty weak. Firing on a istick 50 and when I go above 20w flavor starts to head into burnt land. 15 w flavor seems best but clouds are turrible and it takes forever for the coil to really fire up.

I had been using the 1.2 ohm stock coils and they performed muuuuuuch better. So I know I'm doing something wrong. I would prefer a 1 ohm ish build.

Is 26 gauge the answer
Possible wicking issue

Any advice would be great


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

sillypanda

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 31, 2013
130
120
37
new york
Steam Engine | free vaping calculators is your friend!
Are you using Kanthal?
According to the website, you would have to wrap the 24G wire 13 times using a 3.0mm sized jig to get a 1.2ohm coil. That's a lot of wraps! With the 28G, you would have to only wrap it 5 times using a 3.0 jig (adjust according to what jig sizes you have/want to use).
 

Bakseated1

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 23, 2012
224
356
Pa
I figured I would have to move up in gauge to get the higher ohms but think what I am more concerned with is why the performance is so bad.

It's a good looking coil. The wicking seems snug but not tight. Kind of curious if others had tried the 24 and had any issues.

I think I will give the 28 a shot tonight. Little concerned that I will have a hard time wicking it without destroying the coil though since it's so thin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Bakseated1

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 23, 2012
224
356
Pa
Just gave the 28 gauge a try. Pretty difficult to work with because it's so thin. 6 wraps came out to 1.5 so next time I may try 5 then 4 and see how they differ. Used much less cotton. Had to so I didn't move the coil around so much. Winner winner vaping dessert. Clouds. Flavor. Went all the way to 30 watts no burnt flavor even though 17 worked just fine.

We'll see if that amount of cotton holds up through the whole tank without any flooding but so far I think I got a good one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

TKS

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 28, 2015
378
280
36
Idk why everyone is a fiend for cotton these days, the stuff is meh compared to rayon which I just switched to. You folks really have to try it if your having wicking issues..

Also you coil may be too many wraps that the fire up rate maybe be to slow before you taste the flavor, but by then its short lived because your wick removed alot of liquid though not in the form of dense packed flavor. If your getting dry hits at 20 watts, lower the wraps to 6 max, and try rewicking. Also never touch the cotton in places where they wont be cut off as excess. Better yet, wash your hands with soap and remove all oils on the surface and work fast with rewicking, though the best option would be to use gloves. Hand oils you may think you dont have make a HUGE difference if even the tiniest bit touches the cotton, your wick might as well be thrown away after that.
 

evan le'garde

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Apr 3, 2013
6,080
5,953
55
All i do is thread the wick, cut it long, then place the barrel over the deck down to the thread to see how much more needs to be trimmed off, remove the barrel, and then just trim away at whatever was poking out of the bottom of the barrel. Once that's done i'll screw on the barrel and the wick tails are already in place. So then it's just a case of gently slipping in a tiny screwdriver and edge the wick away from the juice holes, done !. Nice, neat, and most importantly "hanging loose".

The cotton pad is cut to a width of about 4 milimetres. Not so tight that it has to be twisted in (maybe twist a little bit), but tight enough for me to feel a bit of resistance as i'm pulling but not disturbing the coil. In the end the cotton looks like it did before i threaded it, still nice and neat with all the fibres lined up in the same direction and any twisted cotton would be straightened out by sliding it from left to right through the coil.......... perfect !, and the absolute simplest way. Trimming the wick and poking it down into the well after the barrel has been screwed in place means i'll just end up with tails that are compact and fibres facing various directions which means it doesn't wick to it's maximum potential.

Building the coil can be done with either 26 awg or preferably 25awg. 25 is what the stock coils are made of as far as i can tell. 5 wraps with a 2.5mm id of 26awg will give me an ohm reading of maybe 0.7 - 0.8 ohm. An identical build with 25awg comes in at 0.5ohm.

25 watts is how much power i'll use with this coil which provides a fairly noticeable flavour and a reasonable volume of vapour. Turning the power up beyond 25 watts doesn't do the flavour any justice or create more vapour, it just makes it hotter.

YMMV.



I vape.......i'm a vapist !.
 
Last edited:

TKS

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 28, 2015
378
280
36
I haven't touched the rebuild able deck yet. We were talking about rebuilding a stock coil.

I definitely came to the conclusion I was using to much cotton. My second go around worked out great.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you have the RBA section, why would you hassle to rebuild the stock coil just wondering?
 

Bakseated1

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 23, 2012
224
356
Pa
I got used to doing it with the old pro tanks. Typically I have about 10 of them. I will sit down one day and just build all ten and have them sitting around. This way in a pinch I just grab and go. I had talked to some people and read a bit where people were having trouble with the rba section. I haven't had it that long and had been super busy so really haven't had the desire to sit down and mess with it.

But after reading your question my question does kind of seem a little stupid. Might be time to break it out and see if it's easier to work with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

evan le'garde

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Apr 3, 2013
6,080
5,953
55
I haven't touched the rebuild able deck yet. We were talking about rebuilding a stock coil.

I definitely came to the conclusion I was using to much cotton. My second go around worked out great.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You mean the OCC coils. The RBA deck has a stock coil pre-installed too, incidentally.
 

evan le'garde

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Apr 3, 2013
6,080
5,953
55
If you have the RBA section, why would you hassle to rebuild the stock coil just wondering?

:), Why use the OCC coils at all ?. They stop working when the tank is half empty :nah:.

The RBA is a pleasure to re-build. So easy i rebuild it everytime the tank dries up. Easiest RBA i've ever used because the legs are so easy to screw down.:thumbs:
 

KenD

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Aug 20, 2013
5,396
9,257
48
Stockholm, Sweden
kennetgranholm.com
:), Why use the OCC coils at all ?. They stop working when the tank is half empty :nah:.

The RBA is a pleasure to re-build. So easy i rebuild it everytime the tank dries up. Easiest RBA i've ever used because the legs are so easy to screw down.:thumbs:
One reason; the Subtank Nano doesn't have a RBA section. Another; it's nice to have spare coils with you if something happens to the one you're using, or if you're in too much of a hurry to rebuild when a coil craps out on you.
 

evan le'garde

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Apr 3, 2013
6,080
5,953
55
One reason; the Subtank Nano doesn't have a RBA section. Another; it's nice to have spare coils with you if something happens to the one you're using, or if you're in too much of a hurry to rebuild when a coil craps out on you.

NANO !. And the wordsearch is complete.

I use spare RBA decks :
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread