Frustrated...Tank Problems on Mvp 3

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Curleeee

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I received a couple of my tanks yesterday-iClear 30, Kanger Protank 2 and mini protank 2. I am beyond frustrated, I started with the iClear...filled it up with a full sample of AIV April Moon and let it sit for like 30 mins or so and then fired up the mvp on the lowest setting and slowly worked my way up till I found my "sweet spot"-I can't remember the exact wattage but it was still pretty low. The flavor, the vapor, the TH...were fantastic, it was beautiful...I finally felt like damn, I think I really understand why they vape.

All was good and then BURN. Burnt taste galore. I backed off, turned my wattage down and waited ...vaped again and flavor was there with a smokey burnt aftertaste. Put it down and waited a little longer when I finally vaped again it was burnt tasting and awful. I tried the other two tanks after all this and each time lovely flavor then burn. Except with the mini protank, that ish was awful from the first vape. Also with the protanks..I'm barely getting airflow.

What the heck am I doing wrong!? I'm so beyond frustrated, I've read lots of threads and watched a couple videos and I've tried some of the solutions that have worked for others. My tanks came from reputable sites. I started very low on wattage-and voltage when I tried it that way to see if it would make a difference.
Right now my tanks are sitting on a paper towel drying.. I soaked them in some hot water and a little vodka for some hours last night.

I should be getting two kanger evod 2s in the mail today hopefully, but I'm almost afraid of trying them in case I eff them up. Please help.:(
 

Susan~S

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If you are getting a burnt taste (we call those "dry hits"), if usually means your wick cannot pull the eliquid fast enough to keep up with your battery. There are a couple of things you can do:

1. Dial down your wattage/voltage. This will vaporize the eliquid at a slower rate.
2. Decrease the airflow, if your tank has adjustable airflow. The decrease in airflow will increase vacuum inside the tank's atomizer, which should increase the flow of juice to the wick..
3. Take a sharp draw (or two) on your drip tip (without engaging your battery). This will pull more eliquid into the coil so that it will be available when you press the battery button and take a draw.

You will get the feel of this over time and develop a sense of how often you will need to do this to avoid "dry hits". The PG/VG ratio of your eliquid also comes into play, as VG is thicker than PG . If you use high VG try adding a few drops of distilled water (per ml of juice) to your tank to thin out the eliquid. You could also install a higher ohm coil.
 
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Frenchfry1942

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I don't think its the mod, When something burns it means the wick is not getting juice to the coil and then the coil burns the wick.

Sometimes, I open the airflow to much and as I draw, I get more air than juice. My draw is taking in air rather than pulling juice. It has been a good while since I have used those tanks, too. As soon as I detect a burning, I close the air flow off and take 3-4 pulls to get juice to the coil.

Also, for the coil that you put in, consider priming it by dripping a drop or two down the coil chimney.

Also, I soak in vinegar instead of alcohol. It is less abrasive on rubber seals.

Just thoughts, hope helps
 

Curleeee

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Thank you for the replies so far, I did take a draw on them before I turned it on. I will definitely try putting a little juice down the chimney. Honestly Djsvapour, that is what I was really thinking last night that maybe these tanks are just not capable for the type of mods that are available.

My airflow is not adjustable with these, but I believe the Nautilus is if I'm not mistaken. (Haven't gotten it yet, on the way) And that's actually a really good idea to use vinegar instead.

Are there any tanks I could get that won't break the bank too much?
 

djsvapour

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Honestly Djsvapour, that is what I was really thinking last night that maybe these tanks are just not capable for the type of mods that are available.

Are there any tanks I could get that won't break the bank too much?

I wonder how many vapers bought (and kept) all these designs of clearomizers dating back to the CE4 and first Protanks?

I've kept them all (apart from the iClear30 and full sized Vivi Nova) but certainly all the Kanger range, other Innokins and some Aspires.

People seem to think I am kind of odd to even be using these (full stop) with a collection of nice rebuildables and carto-tanks etc. They're ALL unreliable in some way or another.

In theory, you should be able to use old tech clearomizers on the newest mods at low power, but things often don't work out that way. I had great joy with Aspire Nautilus (mini) from August 2014 until March 2015. I'm currently trying out subtanks (not with "sub" coils b.t.w.) with the "Nano" being my current choice on the iStick.
If things work out, that's where I'm heading.

When you say Nautilus, do you mean BVC or BDC? or have you not got that far yet? :)
 

Spanky Payne

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Mar 7, 2015
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I'm a protank 2 owner and a Aero tank owner (huge kanger fan), Kangers coils suck, I recommend getting an aerotank or protank 3, I've had no issues with new dual coils they released. I do not have an mvp but I own a Itaste vv and the protank 2 will not get any airflow on it, because the airholes are in the threading which on the itaste the center pin is lower than most, so i assume the mvp to be the same, they do sell a airflow adapter base (essentially the base from the PT 3 and Aerotank) around 5-8 dollars I can't remember, buy one and that should fix your protank 2 problem. As for the burning, my itaste started doing the same thing it will fire fine then start jumping voltages till it got the point of you had to hold the button til about 3 seconds before the auto shut off to get your coils going, very irritating, Now won"t fire at all. Every B&M I've been to says it"s not worth fixing due to it being riveted, hopefully that's not your issue but I thought I'd share my experience with innokin. Mind you only owned the Itaste for 3 months.
 

Jim V

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Apr 25, 2015
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I have an MVP 3 that works great with the Nautilus Mini, Kanger Subtank and StillAre RBA. The only time I've seen watts/volts "jumping" around was when I first started building my own coils. It turned out that I had tightened my screws too much and broken one of them.

Curleeee - are you buying these used with potentially old atomizers? This would also explain the burnt taste.
 

tobyfootball

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Mar 15, 2015
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Mi
ive gone threw this as wel and i will agree the pt mini horible from start to finish. but for the i clear 30 ive found the plastic top could be pushed down too far and cutting off the circulation of the wick, that fixes it for a while ive found that when you put anew coil on wet the wicks with out the tank on pull that plastic top off and put a little bit a liquid in there to get the wick wet but be sure to blow the liquid out when you have it already to go before you but it on your mod to clear chamber. as far as the protank just stay where it taste great at first if you adjest it only go up 1/2 or 1 wats or volts but dont keep changing it it will come back around and do the same thing as the iclear just pull the chimmney off your coil and put liquid to wet the wick and put chimney back on and also the plastic o ring could also be cutting off wick flow so move it up slightly! and when you fill it let it sit for like 5 min and do primer puffs every so often . its all about inkering and you will get frustrated with it but just know it wil work. also if you re wick your pt coild before you rewick it burn the gunk off your coil works great also i dont know the eliquid but if its really thick its not gonna be plesent you will always have these issues ! hope this helps
 
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