G-Plat - The best? I think not!

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CasketWeaver

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So a few days ago I was out and about and picked up the 24AWG G-Plat wire. The reason I did was because of all the hype over the 24AWG version of this "astounding and super soft" wire. I won't give you the entire spiel, I'll just cut to the chase - I don't like it, I feel it's highly UNSAFE (NOT because of the Manganese found in the wire), and I don't believe it holds a candle to Kanthal A-1 AT ALL! Some say I may have gotten a bad batch but this has happened multiple times already...

IMG_0014.jpg

I was cleaning the coils by pulsing when they snapped off the leads, landed in the juice well of my atty, and put a nice charred mark on my insulator. Had I not been watching, I may have had a pretty nasty short as both halves of the coils were touching the positive, the negative, and the juice well at once. My advice if you DO insist on using G-Plat wire - once you remove your wick, might as well rebuild. Be careful out there folks. Also if you look closely at the picture, you can see one of the coils had warped after it hit the juice well. Wire this soft is a joy to work with but not very safe IMO with how easily it snaps off the leads if it's not being supported by something while attempting to burn off excess gunk. These coils were 10 / 11 wrap nano coils @ .13Ohms - They were less than 3 days old - and firing them on my Mutant. I've never had Kanthal (even 32AWG) fail like this.
 

Gummy Bare

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I've never had any issues with G-plat before. I've got a coil of the 22G at 0.14ohms in my Doge RDA right now. Has been in there for about a month. I switch cotton in it 1 to 2 times a week and pulse burn off any gunk.

A lot of these "designer" wires (g-plat, hotwires, royal, etc.) have a lower melting point that regular kanthal does. They definitely heat up faster than regular kanthal does. I would imagine they might even be safer for subohm vapers since if a mech mod goes under constant fire, the wire will snap before the battery vents.

Everyone has their own preference of course. I still have plenty of kanthal around, I also enjoy nichrome 80, and pick up "designer" wire at the local shops when I happen to roll by. I do most of my juice and gear purchases online now, so I'm not in the shops as much as I used to be.
 

Gummy Bare

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whoa just saw this thread and my gplat 24 just arrived! still stick to khantal tho but i will try the gplat. and yes, the reason why i buy gplat is bcoz the hype all over the internet. i mean all these utube reviewers were crazy about it. i will give it a try but kinda scary at the same time O_O

It's good wire man, give it s shot and I'm sure you'll love it. I ain't no fanboy or nothing, I've read the metaloligist reports on the compounds and understand that it's most likely 317L welding wire and highly marked up in price..... But that doesn't remove the fact it's good vape wire.

I mean, what did people think? Small vape companies were inventing and producing their own heating element wire in small shops or something..... They just used a little common knowledge and tested a bunch of resistant wire, even if it was unconventional wire not commonality used as resistance wire / heating element and found what works best (or good in their eyes). Can't blame them for marketing it, throwing some organic cotton in, and smacking a nice little package over it.

Trust results, not what anyone tells you. If it don't do the trick for you, no one's forcing you to buy it you know. There's always TemCo for miles and miles of the regular stuff on the cheap if you ain't feeling it.
 

CasketWeaver

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I won't say it didn't work, just saying I'm a bit hesitant about it now. Had it snapped off like that in a tank and I was completely unaware of it - Firing any of my tanks on a mech (sometimes I do that because I don't feel like lugging my IPV around everywhere), would have resulted in a hard short for sure, possibly ruined my battery, my mod, or my face. Sorry if I come out of the wood works sounding a bit over concerned. But it hasn't been the first time it's happened and the taste of burnt delrin isn't much fun to inhale nor do I think hot battery gasses would be much fun to inhale either.
 

Gummy Bare

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Royal wires do the same thing, you need to pulse with dead batteries to sorta temper the wire.
Yeah, royal is really soft. Think it's like nichrome 80 or something. Pulsing and crimping the coil together temper's the wire up nice and good though. The g-plat seems to not benefit as much from crimping the coils together after making them.... with g-plat, you kinda wanna make sure you wrap your coil as perfect as possible out of the gate because there's less wiggle room during the pulsing process. At least with the thicker gages.
 

Lord Vaako

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So a few days ago I was out and about and picked up the 24AWG G-Plat wire. The reason I did was because of all the hype over the 24AWG version of this "astounding and super soft" wire. I won't give you the entire spiel, I'll just cut to the chase - I don't like it, I feel it's highly UNSAFE (NOT because of the Manganese found in the wire), and I don't believe it holds a candle to Kanthal A-1 AT ALL! Some say I may have gotten a bad batch but this has happened multiple times already...

View attachment 413422

I was cleaning the coils by pulsing when they snapped off the leads, landed in the juice well of my atty, and put a nice charred mark on my insulator. Had I not been watching, I may have had a pretty nasty short as both halves of the coils were touching the positive, the negative, and the juice well at once. My advice if you DO insist on using G-Plat wire - once you remove your wick, might as well rebuild. Be careful out there folks. Also if you look closely at the picture, you can see one of the coils had warped after it hit the juice well. Wire this soft is a joy to work with but not very safe IMO with how easily it snaps off the leads if it's not being supported by something while attempting to burn off excess gunk. These coils were 10 / 11 wrap nano coils @ .13Ohms - They were less than 3 days old - and firing them on my Mutant. I've never had Kanthal (even 32AWG) fail like this.

This is an ID 10T error. The more you pulse, the more life you take off the coil - especially if you're treating it like A1. It can't handle it. If you check the resistance of the coil over time, you'll notice it will rise as it starts to deteriorate. As one other person said - pulse lightly and at lower power. If you don't know how these wires work, don't use them. They are much lower resistance than the same gauge as A1 and much more pliable than Royal. I've been using them for over a year and these things would happen to me only when I wasn't being careful. If you don't abuse it, the coil will last over a month with moderate use.
 

Gummy Bare

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This is an ID 10T error. The more you pulse, the more life you take off the coil - especially if you're treating it like A1. It can't handle it. If you check the resistance of the coil over time, you'll notice it will rise as it starts to deteriorate. As one other person said - pulse lightly and at lower power. If you don't know how these wires work, don't use them. They are much lower resistance than the same gauge as A1 and much more pliable than Royal. I've been using them for over a year and these things would happen to me only when I wasn't being careful. If you don't abuse it, the coil will last over a month with moderate use.
Haha, you said ID10T error.... you must work in IT or other computer feild. That's were I always heard that term used.
 
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