Ok, busy busy this morning, what I have been up to, here is 5 minutes of my life 
Dan
Dan
G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2
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Ok, busy busy this morning, what I have been up to, here is 5 minutes of my life
Dan
Dude! I got the same pajama pants.
400 wicks (capillary action) much better than 325. 325 drains faster with overhead tanks and can be confused with wicking. The smaller the hole the greater the capilary rise of the liquid. The holes in the 400 are smaller than in the 325. From winking in wiki: Thus for a 4 m (13 ft) diameter glass tube in lab conditions given above (radius 2 m (6.6 ft)), the water would rise an unnoticeable 0.007 mm (0.00028 in). However, for a 4 cm (1.6 in) diameter tube (radius 2 cm (0.79 in)), the water would rise 0.7 mm (0.028 in), and for a 0.4 mm (0.016 in) diameter tube (radius 0.2 mm (0.0079 in)), the water would rise 70 mm (2.8 in).
In lab tests the 400 and 325 used as wicks in miniture kerosene lamps the 325 would hardly mantain a flame and the 400 worked great.
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That's true Youssefa, but (at least in mine) the air hole happened to line up perfectly with the taller post. In fact, I noticed this for the first time about 2 days ago and didn't realize that it was such a big deal until I read Robert T's comment! Apparently it was the cause of a LOT of my dry hit problem. O-ring looks cool and fixed it right up. I'm well on my way to making this my go to atty all of a sudden. Thanks again Dan for this incredible device!
Got mine last night. Easy setup Dan! Thank you! Thank you!
Im not using the ptfe insert. 325wick rolled on a pin to specs .16 kanthal A1 5 wraps 2.3ohms. @4.8v 100% VG and after conditioning and burn in time no real wicking issues. If I chain vape I might get a slight undecent taste which I just put my finger over the hole and take a quick drag. I have to do this on all of mine anyways. This one I like the best thus far.
My pleasure. Wish it was more. I hope everybody sends a lil' somethin'.Thanks! Half is better than none! Gotta keep the wife in rum and diet cokes
Scubadaughter has been helping and kicking .... with the packing process, so a shout to her for helping!
Will drop more packages off today at the post office so the last list post will be correct as of 12:00 noon today.
If anyone else want to by me a virtual beer, I made a simple webpage for donations for the vapestock slush fund
Scubabatdans support page <---Covert
Dan
OK. Would someone explain the airflow that I should be getting with this atty. I've smoked 901's and scubagens with 2 airholes about 1 mm each and get clouds of vapor, but I don't seem to be getting appreciable airflow with mine. I looked at the hole alignment thing and even tried leaving a distance on the 2 threaded sections of about 1/16", with no better results.
Should I be considering drilling out the atty section airhole to a larger diameter?
Should I be considering drilling out the atty section airhole to a larger diameter?
Don't be offended, but did you check all the air holes for a obstruction? It has happened before with other similar attys.
No Offense. I will check that. I know that the single hole is open(inlet).
In the voice of Carl/Slingblade 'Ain't got no gas in it' Start with the simple things. lol
No drilling just check all the air hole to make sure there are no burs left behind, found a couple like that I had to ream each air hole out, then the air flow was good.
Dan
If you loose a screw or a washer, or need extra parts, here is a list of the parts from Mcmaster.com for tyhis build.
Spacer SS 3/16" - McMaster - 92321A007
Spacer Nylon 2 - McMaster - 94639A706
Washer Nylon x 2 - McMaster - 90295A120
SS Screw 0-80 1/8" - McMaster - 91772A052
SS Screw 0-80 1/2" - McMaster - 91772A059
Nylon Screw 6-32 1/4" - McMaster - 93135A144
Spacer PTFE x 2 - McMaster - 5239K241
Dan
Spacer SS 3/16" - McMaster - 92321A007
Spacer Nylon 2 - McMaster - 94639A706
Washer Nylon x 2 - McMaster - 90295A120
SS Screw 0-80 1/8" - McMaster - 91772A052
SS Screw 0-80 1/2" - McMaster - 91772A059
Nylon Screw 6-32 1/4" - McMaster - 93135A144
Spacer PTFE x 2 - McMaster - 5239K241
Dan
Thanks Dan I'll check them all. BTW, Very Nice Build on this one !
Do you have any condensation issues between the tank and outer shell? I think what I saw may be a result of my poor airflow situation.
Got two together, don't envey dan one bit on the assembled unit line.
Tried the T Tank and get plenty of vapor but bad burnt taste. Any tricks to getting the t tank to wick better? I am going to switch out the juice in the am to make sure it's not contaminated.
Wicks and coils are in A1 shape. Run successfully on previous gtus.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
Tried the T Tank and get plenty of vapor but bad burnt taste. Any tricks to getting the t tank to wick better? I am going to switch out the juice in the am to make sure it's not contaminated.
Wicks and coils are in A1 shape. Run successfully on previous gtus.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
T-tanks are pretty finicky and don't like to be overfilled, did you leave some air space in the tank? If you did it might need more.
Did you make sure the knock out hole piece was removed from the silicon cap? Not still attached and touching the wick.
Burnt taste is from it not wicking correctly. Dry hits.
Dan
Yea, no hanging chad.
How long do you make the wick? Mine goes about 3/4 of the way inside the tank and is 325 and fully oxidized.
Need to get some wavy washers to keep the tanks on these ones. :[ My first one worked fine. Maybe I shouldn't have sold it...
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
How long do you make the wick? Mine goes about 3/4 of the way inside the tank and is 325 and fully oxidized.
Need to get some wavy washers to keep the tanks on these ones. :[ My first one worked fine. Maybe I shouldn't have sold it...
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
Flooding my atty
First off, I'm totally new to using a rebuildable atty, but I'm trying. My atty is flooding, after a couple-few vapes it begins to gurgle, then gets worse. When I take the tank cover off, there is a lot of juice on the outside of the tank. I can take the tank off, put the cover back on and blow out the atty and get juice from the air hole of the top 1/2 of the 'bottom section'.
My coil is made from a 35x35 ml piece of 400 mesh. It's metering at 2.3 ohms and I've tried vaping from 3.7 - 4.2V. When I tested it all the coils were turning red. I had the same problem w/ my 1st coil (metered at 1.7ohms) but this one was made from a piece of mess 35x30, cause I couldn't get a bigger one rolled tight enough to fit. I thought perhaps hat was the problem, so I made another wick at the 35x35 size.
Suggestions / help as to what I'm doing wrong is appreciated.
First off, I'm totally new to using a rebuildable atty, but I'm trying. My atty is flooding, after a couple-few vapes it begins to gurgle, then gets worse. When I take the tank cover off, there is a lot of juice on the outside of the tank. I can take the tank off, put the cover back on and blow out the atty and get juice from the air hole of the top 1/2 of the 'bottom section'.
My coil is made from a 35x35 ml piece of 400 mesh. It's metering at 2.3 ohms and I've tried vaping from 3.7 - 4.2V. When I tested it all the coils were turning red. I had the same problem w/ my 1st coil (metered at 1.7ohms) but this one was made from a piece of mess 35x30, cause I couldn't get a bigger one rolled tight enough to fit. I thought perhaps hat was the problem, so I made another wick at the 35x35 size.
Suggestions / help as to what I'm doing wrong is appreciated.
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