G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2

[docabramson]

okay folks, this is not my first rodeo. I have several Genesis, however they are all bottom tanks. I have never gotten a metallic hit EVER, after preparing a wick properly. DAN you are using 400 mesh cut 15x35? rolled on small paper clip like in the web page from Pseudus? I don't believe it. I am at 6 wraps 2.0 ohm at 3.8v using rawr 70/30. Throat burn after throat burn. Give a little blow or suck while covering air hole, either floods or gives 1/2 sorta hits then back again. Also does the base of the G tank get really hot?

I am pretty much in the same boat. DIY eliquid 50pg/50vg. I have made approximatly 10 different Wicks n Wrap. Each attempt at the wick I try something different - Size - Density.

#400 SS Mesh
Nichrome 60 (Chromel C) 27.0 ohms/ft 36

I use 2" of the Nichrome = 4.5ohm (even tried smaller length making the Ohms lower)

Device is a Darwin - moved the dial to just about every watt below 8.5


No matter the config I get dry burnt vapor. Where do I start?

Juice? Nichrome? 400# SS Mesh? Give up?

 

[asdaq]

Put it together and give it a hit...dry/burnt?

Tip it so the tank is down and unscrew the chamber..... is the wick dry by the coil? >> wicking problem, probably too tight.

If the coil is wet, give it a few firings and see if it vapes easily with no hot spots. >> short or too low ohms, maybe exposed ends of kanthal glow.

If it passes all of these, then it should vape normally.

 

[harpo]

Question since I've never used a t-tank and want to give it a try. Does the nipple on the GTUS puncture the cap on the t-tank or am I suppose to use something else? Does anyone one know of a video explaining the GTUS t-tank setup?

 

[Quigsworth]

Put it together and give it a hit...dry/burnt?

Tip it so the tank is down and unscrew the chamber..... is the wick dry by the coil? >> wicking problem, probably too tight.

If the coil is wet, give it a few firings and see if it vapes easily with no hot spots. >> short or too low ohms, maybe exposed ends of kanthal glow.

If it passes all of these, then it should vape normally.

Well done, trouble shooting check-list done in 2 sentences...

there is a 3rd option (and depending on your juice may taste/vape the same)...try cotton

 

[bstedh]

Question since I've never used a t-tank and want to give it a try. Does the nipple on the GTUS puncture the cap on the t-tank or am I suppose to use something else? Does anyone one know of a video explaining the GTUS t-tank setup?

I popped the hole in the tank with a razor knife as the wick will get mashed otherwise. Then put the t-tank top on and slide the t-tank in.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Robert T]

Youssefa, the first one I built a few months back wouldn't work right until I removed the top PTFE sleeve and lined up the side air hole with the coil. I also used a bigger in diameter wick. It still works great. When I built the one I got a couple of weeks ago I did all these things but was getting throat searing burnt hits. I checked all the air passages and found that they were all obstructed some what and the one on the side especially. I cleaned them all and works great now.

 

[Youssefa]

So the base should not be getting hot. I do not have ISO for wick in the base. Dan do you cut the piercer off and use thicker wick... ?

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

 

[bluegrasslover]

That's some serious vapor porn

So you guys know I am not sluffing off
Busy Busy Busy....

Dan

 

[bluegrasslover]

there is a 3rd option (and depending on your juice may taste/vape the same)...try cotton

No doubt quigs. I don't think people believe how good it vapes and how easy it is to setup.

 

[Mindfield]

Any 2 part epoxy will work that is notoxic when cured. I you use a super glue, only use it on the botttom4 threads and screw it in from the bottom so none is at the top where the juice will come in contact with it. I dont recommend super glue. I prefer the 2 part epoxy.
Dan

I ended up using a little bit of JB Weld, just on the bottom threads. It's holding well and having no problems at the moment.

Which means that yes, I've finally assembled it and made my first wick. So far it's going okay. Made a coil using 320 mesh wick, 35x20mm, and 32 ga. Kanthal A, 5 wraps, metered out at 1.9 ohms. I couldn't use the SS tanks because they wouldn't stay put using either of the provided O-rings. I made one out of a 3ml bottle, and it still had tank creep, but I found that slightly melting the rim of the open end helped it stay put quite firmly. No more tank creep.

So my first experience so far: Cool vape, flavour is a bit on the weak side, though I think that might be the mesh. Might have to get some 400 and try that. Oddly, there's a fair amount of play in the wick but it's still giving me periodic dry hits. Might have wrapped it too tightly, perhaps? Also, the hole in the nylon screw wasn't centered, which made the screw itself off-center, and therefore the brass post off-center. A little work with some pliers to just bend it slightly into place fixed that just enough that I could get the bottom portion on, though it's a tight thread -- but it works.

Probably going to take some experimentation to get the right combination of wick width and tightness of roll. Incidentally, I had to forego the little nylon standoff in the top part of the bottom assembly where the wick threads through. It kept coming out when disassembled it, and it wasn't really doing anything useful; the wick is good and sooty so it's not shorting.

Also, when making the wick I never bothered quenching or seasoning with PG. I just torched it for a good 30-60 seconds and let it cool.

 

[Mudflap]

Mine is vaping perfectly right now.

I shan't be unscrewing the middle piece from the bottom piece until it quits working altogether!

Tissue paper cheat, FTW.

 

[Robert T]

Obviously I'm not Dan but I will answer anyway. If you grind off the spike it's permanent and the T tank is the best feature of this Atty for me. Dan uses it too, so he didn't remove the spike on that one. The center section will get hot if you use it, will get very warm at least. I think my wick is 35x30mm and the coil is 6 wraps. Voltage is 4.2 regulated and the res. was 2.3 ohm at first but haven't checked it lately.

I really like the T top configuration, it's shorter, lighter and much more convenient. No unscrewing anything to fill up and you can carry extras. You can buy the type B tanks and silicone caps almost anywhere and.....no tank creep lol

So the base should not be getting hot. I do not have ISO for wick in the base. Dan do you cut the piercer off and use thicker wick... ?

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

 

[Scubabatdan]

Question since I've never used a t-tank and want to give it a try. Does the nipple on the GTUS puncture the cap on the t-tank or am I suppose to use something else? Does anyone one know of a video explaining the GTUS t-tank setup?

Before I put the wick in the mid section, I use the nipple in the T-Tank cap to punture it, then remove the puncture piece. Then put the mid section on the bottom section.

So the base should not be getting hot. I do not have ISO for wick in the base. Dan do you cut the piercer off and use thicker wick... ?

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

No, just remove the PTFE spacer and roll a 35mm x 35mm 400 weave wick.

Also, the hole in the nylon screw wasn't centered, which made the screw itself off-center, and therefore the brass post off-center. A little work with some pliers to just bend it slightly into place fixed that just enough that I could get the bottom portion on, though it's a tight thread -- but it works.

There were some srews that were not dead center, and if you rotate the screw in after cutting the head off, make sure the hole is left or right of center so the hole lines up with the arc of the hole in the brass piece. If it is above or below the path the brass hole travels in an arc it will not line up. i.e.

Dan

 

[debb]

Well done, trouble shooting check-list done in 2 sentences...

there is a 3rd option (and depending on your juice may taste/vape the same)...try cotton

I would but I don't know how to make a wick from it...lol

 

[bstedh]

 

[Scubabatdan]

SaaaaaaaaWEET!
Dan

 

[ED-209]

Greetings fellow G-Tankers....just a little update on my progress since last night, and some questions of course and I appreciate any and all assistance

Ok, so I redid the mesh and wick and still was having the same issue. I tried to do a 35 mm x 35 mm and I had the issues as some others as I couldn't get it tight enough to fit thru the spike (no PTFE) so I ended up with using a 20 - 25 mm x 35 mm. So I was gonna try to install my PTFE inserts, the one on the bottom cap went right in and didn't glue it just to test it and then press-fitted the one below the spike...BIG MISTAKE, I then couldn't even get close to wrapping the wick tight enough and even tried rolling without any straight pin or paperclip, so took that out and left the one in the bottom piece.

So I fired it again and it worked perfect, no glowing red on the wire between the positive screw and the top of the wick, so that confirms it must have been a short due to the bottom of the coil touching the base as I tried several times to adjust the coils, wick etc. but it would always glow red on that small part, even when there was juice and vapor was being produced.

So now with the wick\coils working right, I tried the regular 3 ml setup, both with a plastic 3 ml bottle and the SS tank...and the vapor was sooooo cool that it didn't really give me any TH at all and I'm vaping 24mg. The coil ohm was around 2.2 and I was at 4.4 volts. I got some vapor but no TH and some flavor. I didn't know if I'm doing something wrong or if this is just due to the outer top steel cap having a cooling effect on the vapor?

So I tried using the dripper setup and OMG, there it is, perfect flavor, vapor and a great TH but I have to drip every 2-3 drags and I immediately remembered why I quit dripping and why I began using tanks BUT it gave me hope and honestly I can tell you if I can get this type of experience 9 out of 10 times I will definitely stop using cartos or anything else for that matter and now know what the hype is about genesis attys.

Lastly I figured I'd test the theory about the steel cap cooling effect and try the T-Tank, and it was just a little cooler vs. dripping but a lot better in terms of TH vs. using the other tank setups, HOWEVER a new issue arose. The issue I came across was that everything worked and tested great, so I screwed everything together, installed the T-Tank (yes the chad was removed of the silicone cap) and it would fire and vapor would produce, then when I go to take another drag a few minutes nothing would happen. The fire button would turn red indicating power was being supplied but no vapor, no crackle sound, etc.?? I would then unscrew everything, fire it and it worked fine producing vapor, etc. So I screw everything back together, fired it and boom vapor, then wait a few minutes and the same thing, fired it, no vapor, no nothing?

My questions are:

Am I doing something wrong in regards to using the other tanks or is it just because of the steel cap cooling off the vapor as to why I don't get the same warmer hits as I do with either dripping or using the T-Tank?


Why does it sometimes fire and produce vapor, then all of a sudden when I push the button it gets power, no errors but no vapor no nothing? I'll unscrew everything and when I fire it fires and vapor is produced? I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the posts or if my positive screw isn't screwed down far enough to cause these mis-fires?

I feel I am getting better and at least I finally made a coil that doesn't short but just wanna make sure my thinking is right in terms of the coil as well as not sure what is causing it to sometimes fire and produce vapor and other times it fires but nothing?

I've read and heard that the wick\mesh\coil takes a day or so to break in, is that really true? If so, does that mean the TH will get better? I know even with cartos that when I first start using them there is a break in point before it gets good so just wasn't sure if that is the same with mesh wicks. Don't get me wrong it's great (either dripping or T-tank) and can't imagine it getting even better.

Thanks again for any and all help,

 

[debb]

glad your coils good now, ed..mine is doing the same thing..sorry I can't help...having the same issues....want to try to drip..but not sure of the set up..

 

[ED-209]

glad your coils good now, ed..mine is doing the same thing..sorry I can't help...having the same issues....want to try to drip..but not sure of the set up..

Thanks Debb, I know the feeling. With dripping you just don't screw on the middle spike part and screw on the dripper top (if you ordered one). You can then either install a separate screw so you can have a horizontal coil OR a few posts back someone posted pics of how they dripped by just using the same vertical coil and it would actually come up into the drip tip making it easier for the juice to go onto the wick directly.

It's like night and day compared to using the tanks for me BUT I HATE DRIPPING, not that I don't like the flavor TH or vapor, just hate having to drip every 3 drags or so, so still trying to work thru my frustration and thinking the mini Scuba might be the answer since there shouldn't be any cooling effect as well as not having to be exact in terms of making sure the wick goes thru the spike or flooding, etc. but I know I am still a beginner for this tank so we'll see.

I've noticed to that it seems if any frays exist on the wick and that touches the bottom piece or coils that seems to cause the short I'm having but the Vari doesn't error out so gets confusing.

Again thanks and hopefully someone can chime in on my questions and maybe it will help you out as well

 

[kazz63758]

Tissue paper cheat, FTW.

What is a tissue paper cheat? I did a thread search and your post is the only one that comes up.