Thought you'd like to see the GTUS on a couple epipemods.
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G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2
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Thought you'd like to see the GTUS on a couple epipemods.
I have to say thanks to Dan for the tip. I just got my gtus from the classifieds and while waiting for it to arrive I stumbled onto dan's videos, I still can't believe how much easier the paper made the whole process...
Couldn't agree more. Last coil I built, I forgot the paper, ended up with all manner of shorts. Took it off, rebuilt it with paper. Friggin perfect coil, first try. This is the best trick I've found since I started vaping!
Well i finally got my GTUS up and running.. took me a bit, super small area, gave up for a minute and almost traded it, But told myself screw that try again.. got her running.. VAPES GREAT! Thanks Dan
Rocking the GP setup right now
Vapor isn't too much warmer, but the GTUS has been growing on me quite a bit, regardless. Throat hit is boosted a tad bit in this setup. This GP setup is maybe 2-2.5 ml at most, the cap pressed into the top is a bit on the thick side, limiting the length of the bottle. I'll probably take the other one into work and turn it down halfway or otherwise mod it somehow to fit the full 3 ml bottle. This one's not glued in place, but is in there nice and tight so it ain't going anywhere without some serious effort
Anyway, thanks again for the co-op, Dan. It's an awesome device overall once you get the hang of it
Vapor isn't too much warmer, but the GTUS has been growing on me quite a bit, regardless. Throat hit is boosted a tad bit in this setup. This GP setup is maybe 2-2.5 ml at most, the cap pressed into the top is a bit on the thick side, limiting the length of the bottle. I'll probably take the other one into work and turn it down halfway or otherwise mod it somehow to fit the full 3 ml bottle. This one's not glued in place, but is in there nice and tight so it ain't going anywhere without some serious effort
Anyway, thanks again for the co-op, Dan. It's an awesome device overall once you get the hang of it
What a day, all 5 genesis are giving me burnt vapor. My internet is down. My yard is super saturated. My lawn tractor got stuck twice. Two boge 2.0 doa out of the box.... i'm going to bead early before the ground opens up and swallows the entire universe.
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
<<shakes head and sighs>>...the quintfecta of crap...hang in there bstedh...
Rocking the GP setup right now
Vapor isn't too much warmer, but the GTUS has been growing on me quite a bit, regardless. Throat hit is boosted a tad bit in this setup. This GP setup is maybe 2-2.5 ml at most, the cap pressed into the top is a bit on the thick side, limiting the length of the bottle. I'll probably take the other one into work and turn it down halfway or otherwise mod it somehow to fit the full 3 ml bottle. This one's not glued in place, but is in there nice and tight so it ain't going anywhere without some serious effort
Anyway, thanks again for the co-op, Dan. It's an awesome device overall once you get the hang of it
Nice going. I just got mine today and for the heck of it. Stuck the ring top into one of the tubes and slid that over the SS tank. Held it in place and gave it a try. Need to sit down tonight and put it together properly.
Say - what did you do to the bottom of the outside sleeve to make it grip the threads. Did you just burn/melt 3 spots into it like Dan did in his video? Any other tricks come up, besides doing it that way?
I did 4 spots with the soldering iron like Youssefa suggested. Two really low and two slightly higher. You can see two of them in the pic (the higher spot in between them that looks like a third one is just a drop of juice hit by the camera flash). My tubes are actually a fairly snug fit over the threads as-is, just a hair smaller and they would have threaded right on with no melting needed.
It only takes about a second with the tip of the iron to make a good bubble for the threads to grab. When you go to thread it on afterward, do your best to thread it on straight, it's easy to thread it on crooked. Once you've got it on, put a little PG or juice on the threads and work it back and forth a few times so it's easier/smoother to get on and off. And definitely put an o-ring on below the cover. You still get a little juice/condensate in there, though not nearly as much as the SS parts, and leaking could occur. Not to mention it's not an air-tight seal around the threads since it's only grabbing those 4 small points, so the o-ring helps to seal it from unwanted air ingress. I find it helps to lube the o-ring with a little vaseline or silicone grease to make a better air-tight seal
As for the drip tip insert for the top, it's a really tight fit, so I don't think gluing is necessary at all. I wish it were about half the thickness to allow for a larger juice tank, though. My intention was to only press it in halfway and bevel the top edge, but I had to push so hard to get it in that the whole thing went in at once. If I am successful at modifying the other one, I may pop this one back out to do this one as well
That's about all the tips I can think of.
It only takes about a second with the tip of the iron to make a good bubble for the threads to grab. When you go to thread it on afterward, do your best to thread it on straight, it's easy to thread it on crooked. Once you've got it on, put a little PG or juice on the threads and work it back and forth a few times so it's easier/smoother to get on and off. And definitely put an o-ring on below the cover. You still get a little juice/condensate in there, though not nearly as much as the SS parts, and leaking could occur. Not to mention it's not an air-tight seal around the threads since it's only grabbing those 4 small points, so the o-ring helps to seal it from unwanted air ingress. I find it helps to lube the o-ring with a little vaseline or silicone grease to make a better air-tight seal
As for the drip tip insert for the top, it's a really tight fit, so I don't think gluing is necessary at all. I wish it were about half the thickness to allow for a larger juice tank, though. My intention was to only press it in halfway and bevel the top edge, but I had to push so hard to get it in that the whole thing went in at once. If I am successful at modifying the other one, I may pop this one back out to do this one as well
That's about all the tips I can think of.
Thanks, nice description on how to do it. For a quick and dirty try, I wound the threads with some teflon tape. Then put an o-ring on. Then force fit the outter tube over the teflon tape. Holds fairly snug. As to the top/drip-tip ring. I only pushed that in 1/2 way and that would allow making a syringe tank the same size as an SS tank. I actually like it sticking out instead of just a flat top. Nice idea to taper it. May try that.
Using an SS tank and the poly outside cover, it still builds up condensation. I thought I'd try that combination, just to see how it worked.
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Hey, good idea on the tape, I didn't even think of that. Probably don't even need the o-ring that way, it should seal pretty well on the tape
Hello Dan,
I was away from home in Europe for a month and to my surprise I found on Saturday a package from you with a GTUS. If you check your mails one more time (and also the old thread) on 04/03 a mail exchange between us settled the fact that my GTUS was sold to "subver". I think you send me one by mistake and it will be dishonest to take advantage. Please let me know how you want to proceed.
Michael
I was away from home in Europe for a month and to my surprise I found on Saturday a package from you with a GTUS. If you check your mails one more time (and also the old thread) on 04/03 a mail exchange between us settled the fact that my GTUS was sold to "subver". I think you send me one by mistake and it will be dishonest to take advantage. Please let me know how you want to proceed.
Michael
I'm starting to get a little worried are these all shipped out? Mine hasn't shown up yet
Shead, I sent you a PM. Please read it and reply.
Thanks.
O-ring helps a lot, was considering melting a small circle around the bottom to see if that helped the seal. Anyone give it a shot?
Wish I had a way to cut the insert shorter. I tried using a pipe cutter but it's too thick and small...Right now I only have it about a third of the way in. The drip tip I chose fits very snug, though I may have a McMaster o-ring on it I forget.
I am still having issues, tried the paper and the coil glows fine. It just burns out and disconnects from the posts almost as soon as it glows.
It has got to be the nichrome, everything else is the same. I managed to get a little production out of it once or twice but the vapor sucks.
Gonna try n get Kanthal and see if it works any better. Stewalin was easier to get than Kanthal.
I have 2 unbuilt scubagen3's and my GTUS, maybe they need a better home than me
Hobby supposed to be fun right? haha
Sent from my Epic using Tapatalk
It has got to be the nichrome, everything else is the same. I managed to get a little production out of it once or twice but the vapor sucks.
Gonna try n get Kanthal and see if it works any better. Stewalin was easier to get than Kanthal.
I have 2 unbuilt scubagen3's and my GTUS, maybe they need a better home than me
Hobby supposed to be fun right? haha
Sent from my Epic using Tapatalk
i was thinking today,
people want to drill out the air hole that draws air into the combustion chamber right? to let in more air, better draw more vapor, more air across the coil etc etc
right?
why not drill a hole right... but taper it much like the inside of the top cap that the tank fits onto that u press the ptfe fitting into ... right? so you would have generally a recessed say 2mm hole but with a 1.5mm actual hole through, (still with me here?) then!
then you could say put in lil i call them beads, but really it would likely be the same ptfe inserts type thinger...
the ID of the "bead" would vary the actual hole the air is drawn through, thus changing the air flow to exactly what you want without drilling a hole and being stuck with it for ever...
i know i didnt hit the nail of the head here, but to me it makes since... now whether or not you could do this with the existing piece... i doubt it prolly have to fab a whole new one but with these lathe and drill smiths here i believe its possible
i saw a picture in the support thread2 of dan of one of youse guys using o rings to isolate the + screw... i think it was dan that posted a pic of recessed holes that oring set in... THATS EXACTLY what iam talking about, but with the airhole, and a bead of some kind of tubing that will fit nicely and is available in differant ID's but same OD...
just a thought in my wandering mind...
lemme know what youse guys thinks
thank you for your time
people want to drill out the air hole that draws air into the combustion chamber right? to let in more air, better draw more vapor, more air across the coil etc etc
right?
why not drill a hole right... but taper it much like the inside of the top cap that the tank fits onto that u press the ptfe fitting into ... right? so you would have generally a recessed say 2mm hole but with a 1.5mm actual hole through, (still with me here?) then!
then you could say put in lil i call them beads, but really it would likely be the same ptfe inserts type thinger...
the ID of the "bead" would vary the actual hole the air is drawn through, thus changing the air flow to exactly what you want without drilling a hole and being stuck with it for ever...
i know i didnt hit the nail of the head here, but to me it makes since... now whether or not you could do this with the existing piece... i doubt it prolly have to fab a whole new one but with these lathe and drill smiths here i believe its possible
i saw a picture in the support thread2 of dan of one of youse guys using o rings to isolate the + screw... i think it was dan that posted a pic of recessed holes that oring set in... THATS EXACTLY what iam talking about, but with the airhole, and a bead of some kind of tubing that will fit nicely and is available in differant ID's but same OD...
just a thought in my wandering mind...
lemme know what youse guys thinks
thank you for your time
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I was thinking a sleeve on the lower unit might do the trick for airflow. Drill out the original air-hole much larger, then have a hole in the sleeve. Turn the sleeve matching up the holes to govern how much air flows through. Of course this will only be easy if I can find a tube that closely matches the OD of the vapor chamber.
Just noticed the polycarbonate tubes from the SGV3 fit very snug on the vapor tube...may give this a shot at some point
Edit: This would also cover the bottom of the GP tube. May help make it more snug and air tight. I'd need to pick up some very fine sand paper to take a hair off it so I can turn it easily though.
Edit: This would also cover the bottom of the GP tube. May help make it more snug and air tight. I'd need to pick up some very fine sand paper to take a hair off it so I can turn it easily though.
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