G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2

[asdaq]

Kazz, it is wrapping a thin layer of tissue paper around the wick before wrapping a coil and then burning it off before vaping to aid with oxidization.

Also, to anyone about to roll a wick, after cutting and before rolling, look closely at the edges and choose the cleanest looking edge to be on the outside where the coil will touch. There are four choices and many times one looks the best, no stray wires or missing cross wires leaving lots of bare spiky wires.

 

[Youssefa]

just for kicks I unscrewed the middle with the tank on, set it down on the table and left it, came back...it did not leak through the wick hole even thought full of jucie and no wick plugging it!....????????

SO FAR.
I have reamed ALL holes. tried a wick that had to be crammed through the hole, a wick that fell through the hole. have tried with ptfe in and out of the mid section. have even tried adding a roll of wick to the coil area to increase wick density at the the HEAT. using rawr 70/30 with a bit of extra pg. From previous attempt had primer pg on wick, vaped until I got a dry hit, yuck! used blow/suck method..2 drags...ARRGGHHH, that burns bad. I have it setup for 5ml tank...long wick, I removed top. Have clear tank on it. unscrewed the top section and lifted until I could see coil, 3/4 inch of wick still in tank, Fired....GLOW, slide tank up and down, fired....GLOW. 2.4ohms tried @ 3.3-3.8v.....GLOW. current wick slides easily, juice should running down the wick. NO GO..... Watered down the juice to 50/50

It is now 6:46am EST, I have been f'ing with this for 6 hours, with a little break for snack and bathroom. I redid again, with solid dense tight 400mesh wick. At this point I say F__K it, they are going one the classy's...... The ONLY THING that I have not tried is cutting the piercer off.

I current;y have LINE V2, 2x Defcons(poor mans line) and a scubagen, I should be able to do this, no problem.

 

[asdaq]

Youseffa, If you take the seemingly dry wick and screw on the upper portion with the tank and then remove that upper portion does it come out with a wet coil? It might be air not returning to the tank or a trapped bubble in the wick, but doesn't really sound like it.

 

[Youssefa]

Debb you can also get some nextel wick. and sewing needle and wrap like odysseus the idea is to have fluff pointing at the drip tip and fluff spread out in the bottom mopping up overflow.

 

[kazz63758]

Kazz, it is wrapping a thin layer of tissue paper around the wick before wrapping a coil and then burning it off before vaping to aid with oxidization.

Also, to anyone about to roll a wick, after cutting and before rolling, look closely at the edges and choose the cleanest looking edge to be on the outside where the coil will touch. There are four choices and many times one looks the best, no stray wires or missing cross wires leaving lots of bare spiky wires.

Thanks for the reply. Do you have any insight as to whether the wick NEEDS to be 35mm long? Does it have to stick halfway up into the tank? Or is just a couple of mm sufficient?

Thanks again.

 

[asdaq]

Just barely sticking in should be fine too, I've done it both ways fine. It is easier to screw on with a longer wick to insert first, slide in a bit and then work on the threading. Too short and you'd miss the hole and crush/bend the wick screwing it on. Also for the same reason it is nice to be able to open the chamber with the tank and cover still attached.

 

[goat29]

just for kicks I unscrewed the middle with the tank on, set it down on the table and left it, came back...it did not leak through the wick hole even thought full of jucie and no wick plugging it!....????????

SO FAR.
I have reamed ALL holes. tried a wick that had to be crammed through the hole, a wick that fell through the hole. have tried with ptfe in and out of the mid section. have even tried adding a roll of wick to the coil area to increase wick density at the the HEAT. using rawr 70/30 with a bit of extra pg. From previous attempt had primer pg on wick, vaped until I got a dry hit, yuck! used blow/suck method..2 drags...ARRGGHHH, that burns bad. I have it setup for 5ml tank...long wick, I removed top. Have clear tank on it. unscrewed the top section and lifted until I could see coil, 3/4 inch of wick still in tank, Fired....GLOW, slide tank up and down, fired....GLOW. 2.4ohms tried @ 3.3-3.8v.....GLOW. current wick slides easily, Juice should running down the wick. NO GO..... Watered down the juice to 50/50

It is now 6:46am EST, I have been f'ing with this for 6 hours, with a little break for snack and bathroom. I redid again, with solid dense tight 400mesh wick. At this point I say F__K it, they are going one the classy's...... The ONLY THING that I have not tried is cutting the piercer off.

I current;y have LINE V2, 2x Defcons(poor mans line) and a scubagen, I should be able to do this, no problem.

try a 20/80 vg/pg juice, but first try sticking your pin or whatever you are using to roll your mesh with, down the tube after you put the bottem together with out the tank, kind of ream out the tube, sometimes the tube will get slightly crushed while putting it togerter

 

[kazz63758]

Just barely sticking in should be fine too, I've done it both ways fine. It is easier to screw on with a longer wick to insert first, slide in a bit and then work on the threading. Too short and you'd miss the hole and crush/bend the wick screwing it on. Also for the same reason it is nice to be able to open the chamber with the tank and cover still attached.

Ahh, that makes sense. Thank you for the explanation!

 

[AlmightyGod]

For anyone having trouble getting the 35x35 wick to pass through the spike on the upper bottom section, I took a 3/32" drill bit to it and bored out the hole. Now everything is working perfectly.

 

[Robert T]

Is the spike still usable after doing this?

For anyone having trouble getting the 35x35 wick to pass through the spike on the upper bottom section, I took a 3/16" drill bit to it and bored out the hole. Now everything is working perfectly.

 

[AlmightyGod]

Is the spike still usable after doing this?

It thinned the inner walls, but it's still solid.

 

[Robert T]

Well, I think it's a good idea if the T tank still works on it.

It thinned the inner walls, but it's still solid.

 

[AlmightyGod]

I should add that you would want to drill from the inside. It popped right through like butter.

 

[Robert T]

Good deal. Yeah, I could see someone trying to drill from the top......lol

 

[AlmightyGod]

Here is the 3ml on my Chrome Provari:

 

[BJ43]

For anyone having trouble getting the 35x35 wick to pass through the spike on the upper bottom section, I took a 3/16" drill bit to it and bored out the hole. Now everything is working perfectly.

3/16" ??? That is a very large hole for a wick.

 

[bstedh]

One thing I did, as I am not using the ptfe, I put a skim coat of epoxy inside the bottom hole to prevent the bottom of the wick shorting.

Also if you are using 400 mesh make sure you fold the trailing edge over. The gap this creates in the top hole aids wicking and help lessen shorting at the coil.

I have not put the 3 or 5ml tanks on this batch yet. Just using T tanks for now but on my early gtus I did grind off the t tank nipple to get better wicking but im mot sure if it was nessesary.

The threading in the covers does significantly cool the Vape. Next time i am up north i am going to have my uncle throw my covers on the lathe and clean out the inside of them to see if it makes a difference, but that will be weeks from now.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

 

[bstedh]

I forgot to add, what some people are describing as flooding may actually just be condensate. Always keep the air hole in an upward position. Also just touching the hole with your finger will wick juice or condensate out of it so keep fingers away.

The hole sits right at the lip of the bottom section and juice and condensate naturals collects there as it is a corner and a crevice.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Quigsworth]

One thing I did, as I am not using the ptfe, I put a skim coat of epoxy inside the bottom hole to prevent the bottom of the wick shorting.

Also if you are using 400 mesh make sure you fold the trailing edge over. The gap this creates in the top hole aids wicking and help lessen shorting at the coil.

I have not put the 3 or 5ml tanks on this batch yet. Just using T tanks for now but on my early gtus I did grind off the t tank nipple to get better wicking but im mot sure if it was nessesary.

The threading in the covers does significantly cool the Vape. Next time i am up north i am going to have my uncle throw my covers on the lathe and clean out the inside of them to see if it makes a difference, but that will be weeks from now.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

Good idea on the epoxy, I used a wrap of teflon plumbers tape...your idea is way better (I'm not even going to get into the whole "if you oxidize properly you won't have that problem"...I just ripped a guy on another thread for being a SS mesh "elitist" )

I thought I was over thinking the cool vape causes but I think you might have nailed it...look at the cooling fins on a motorcycle engine...they are trying to create as much surface area as possible to maximize heat dissipation...if you where to take the surface area of the threaded tops and stretch them out till the inside surface was smooth the top would be 2 feet long (ok, an exaggeration but you get my point )

 

[bstedh]

I am pretty sure the cooling also mutes the flavor. That is why I am only using the t tank for now.

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