General UFS Questions

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SparkyII

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DANO seat washer 1/4 in. inner diameter and a 19/32 in. outer diameter. Hi guys I have tried to obtain theses in the UK and no luck , any chance someone could buy a couple from home depot for me and send on ,they don't send outside the US...I am happy to pay for the items and for your time.

Cliff
Imeo - nice one! I'll definitely invest in a UFS Universal top cap :)

Cliff - you might want to try searching for rubber grommets as these things are called on this side of the pond in a hardware shop. I can't find any matching those dimensions for sale online, though...
 

cliffy1

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Imeo - nice one! I'll definitely invest in a UFS Universal top cap :)

Cliff - you might want to try searching for rubber grommets as these things are called on this side of the pond in a hardware shop. I can't find any matching those dimensions for sale online, though...

Yes Sparky I know I have already tried to get,and spent about 2 hours on the net looking.
 

JBTX1

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remember AVS with the second ring that sits on the first big refilling cap. So if we make this ring we are ok Zu:)

I had thought the same thing too Imeo. I even tried one off of my AVS but as we both know it's a different size thread. I just thought that a longer clear section for more juice capacity and use of cartos would serve two purposes. I personally don't mind refilling once or twice a day.Yet the top nut would be great for use with cartos on the UFS. Any ETA of when you might make these? I know your busy, just curious is all. Thanks again Imeo!
 

JBTX1

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JB, I will make it together with Iatty. Making one more piece will not delay me more than 2 days. And I thank you too buddy for the support you gave me those years we know each other:)

Awesome Imeo! You have been a great friend as well and I support what I believe in! It has been a fun ride with all your new inventions! I look forward to more of them! Take care buddy!
 

Captain Morgan

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You don't have to cut a 510 carto down to the size of a 510 atty, you only need to cut it down to the length of a 510 atty plus the atty extender. A standard length 510 carto will work in the UFS if you take a pipe cutter and remove about 3/8 inch from the end. A standard length carto has about a 1/2 inch of space from the batting to the end so removing 3/8 inch is no problem. Removing 3/8 inch then allows you to use the regular UFS o-ring and the Delrin mouthpiece. I have done this, and it works. I do have to keep adjusting the juice control, though. I haven't tried punching a hole into the carto and leaving the juice control closed, but that sounds like a good idea and am going to try that.

Edit: Punched a single hole (I vape 100% PG) in a 510 carto I had shortened, closed the juice control and opened wide the air control and it vapes TERRIFIC. No flooding or running dry - don't have to touch either juice or air control. Thanks JB for the info!
 
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JBTX1

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QUOTE=Captain Morgan;3214661]You don't have to cut a 510 carto down to the size of a 510 atty, you only need to cut it down to the length of a 510 atty plus the atty extender. A standard length 510 carto will work in the UFS if you take a pipe cutter and remove about 3/8 inch from the end. A standard length carto has about a 1/2 inch of space from the batting to the end so removing 3/8 inch is no problem. Removing 3/8 inch then allows you to use the regular UFS o-ring and the Delrin mouthpiece. I have done this, and it works. I do have to keep adjusting the juice control, though. I haven't tried punching a hole into the carto and leaving the juice control closed, but that sounds like a good idea and am going to try that.


Edit: Punched a single hole (I vape 100% PG) in a 510 carto I had shortened, closed the juice control and opened wide the air control and it vapes TERRIFIC. No flooding or running dry - don't have to touch either juice or air control. Thanks JB for the info![/QUOTE]

That's great Capt! Glad it worked for you buddy! Always happy to help out a fellow GG owner.:toast:
 

Captain Morgan

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Found another rubber washer that works in the UFS. It is a Danco Cone Washer, Type V, about a 5/8 inch OD with a 3/8 inch ID. Works perfect on the UFS where you are using mega 510 cartos, no leaks.

They look like this:

Cone_type_V.jpg

I got mine out of a box of assorted washers I had purchased years ago. These should be obtainable at any hardware store.

Edit: Ignore title to this post. I first thought these washers were called Beveled, but they are not. They are Cone Washers, Type V (there are about 12 types of cone washers).
 
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Captain Morgan

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Capt...I have found these to work best. Click the link in the above quote. These are NOT a cone washer! But whatever works for you ,,,right!

JB - Yes, I saw Wylie's post on this, and thanks for the idea. I read, though, where some members were having problems finding these locally, so I was just offering an alternative that I found would work. Cone washers are cheap and common and plentiful, and a home DIY person like myself might already have one among their kit of plumbing repair washers, like I did. In addition to the Type V, Types N and B cone washers will also work, but they need to be 5/8 inch OD with no larger than a 3/8 inch or 13/32 inch ID hole in the center. Some places these are referred to as "Threaded Cone Washers" because they are a soft rubber and will easily conform to threaded pipe joints to form a liquid proof seal.
 

Wylie

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atavanhalen

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Thank you captain. I meant pictures of how to make a hole in the cartomizer (and where) so it could work with the UFS. Now I'm not so sure that it needs a hole in it to work. What was the final verdict?

You will not have to punch a hole in your cartos to use in the ufs but I think that if you use thick juice that it would be a good idea. If you use pg its sounds like it is not necesarry but if you are bored one day then why not give it a try. I think you make the hole about a inch from the bottom of the tube, when I did it on my 808 cartos, I used a dremel with a diamond bit but I think a punch and hammer might work just as well, someone else will have to post with a more specific answer.
 

Captain Morgan

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Thank you captain. I meant pictures of how to make a hole in the cartomizer (and where) so it could work with the UFS. Now I'm not so sure that it needs a hole in it to work. What was the final verdict?

Casual - You don't need a hole if you want hands on in making it work, like an atty by adjusting the juice control and the air control. Or, if you want to vape relatively hands off, without flooding, burning, leaking and without fuss, then punch a 1mm hole in the carto about 1/2" from the end of the cartos threaded end. You can use a hammer and a nail, a hammer and a punch, or a General No. 89 spring loaded stainless steel punch (no hammer needed) to punch a hole. Drilling them is more difficult because they are made of stainless steel, one of the hardest metals to drill. Either way you will need a vice or v-block and clamp to steady them when punching. I have attached a pic of what I use: General No. 89 punch (bought at HomeDepot) , and a steel v-block 1 5/8" x 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" with clamp (bought on eBay). I takes me about 30 seconds to setup and measure and punch a carto. (See pic below)

Once punched and screwed into the UFS, the juice control is closed and left closed, and the air control ring adjusted. I vape 100% PG so I open the air control ring fully and don't have to touch it until I get ready to refill. With a new dry carto, a couple of puffs before pressing the button is usually sufficient to pull juice into the carto. Refilling a tank with the same carto you will have some flooding at the start. After I refill a tank I take a couple of q-tips and holding the ufs upside down and the drip tip off, stick the q-tip into the carto so that it is touching the batting and soak up the extra juice.

If you vape 100% VG you may need two holes opposite of each other. I have vaped a 70PG/30VG mix with just one hole without any problems.

BlockandPunch.jpg

Edit: To get a 1mm hole with the General No. 89 punch you need to punch it about three times and make sure you now see exposed batting.
 
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