he first thing that popped in my head was "Power Drain" and "diminishing return" . I don't know nuttin about how they work but I probably read about it somewhere. Where's addy?
getting upset about the passthrus
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Not to turn this into a computer forum, but depending on what type of chipset you're running on, what the amperage is on the 5v line on your power supply, what wattage your ps has, and what else you have running on your usb, it can explain why you're experiencing power loss. My 1200w ps has 30 amps on the 5v line. My p55 chipset has 12 usb connectors. Theoretically I could run all 12 at 2 amps. I say theoretically because hdd/dvd drives run off it, all usb items, pci cards, etc. That's 30a gets used up quickly, and most ps only have 12-21a on the 5v rail. As more items start using the 5v rail, the available amperage goes down. Running a rail closer and closer to it's max, lowers the voltage. Use the bios or a hardware monitoring software to check your 5v. It could be running at only 4.5-4.7 which isn't enough for the pt. This is why I don't suggest running the pt on your computer.
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Computers have protection for devices that are drawing too much current from the USB ports. For instance, I plugged my PT into a macbook and it warned that the device was disabled because it drew too much power as soon as it was plugged in. It could be that after the PT warms up a bit it pulls more power to try and keep going. Try using the PT through a wall wart (the iPhone one works I know). See if that fixes it.
Reason it worked on the netbook is usually their usb ports are designed to run at 2a without issue. External hds can require that much power to run. A lot less usb's on a netbook, and as few items as possible on that 5v rail.
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well...i was gonna get a passthru...lol...i love this forum!
seriously, i cant risk frying anything on either my work or my home pc....and why bother get in all deep and try to find out if either pc puts out enough powa?
seriously, i cant risk frying anything on either my work or my home pc....and why bother get in all deep and try to find out if either pc puts out enough powa?
Just use a wall plug. I can actually tell you how to check, but not sure how comfortable you are with opening your computer up.
Kitten..no sweat! Just get a wall plug with USB, like a charger for an I Pod. I will let the guys tell you what MAh to look for.
I Have been using my purple passthru for a long time now with no problems.
I Have been using my purple passthru for a long time now with no problems.
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I'm pretty certain this is a special case but at any rate the possibility of it doing harm to your computer is nearly nil.
I wouldn't worry so much about frying the comp as damaging the pt. Not enough voltage will cause a lock up or, shut down, or it will simply cut off the device. I don't know what it does to the pt.
The computer will reach overload on the motherboard and shut down that USB port, no damage to the computer or PT. The PT gets no power, the computer resets the USB port.
The computer will supply a constant 5v, the only thing is if it supplies enough amperage, around 2000mah. The 5v is a constant on all USB ports and chargers, as well as power supplies set up for USB devices.
There are no safety devices or protection circuits incorporated into the PT, other than the cut off timer.
The computer will supply a constant 5v, the only thing is if it supplies enough amperage, around 2000mah. The 5v is a constant on all USB ports and chargers, as well as power supplies set up for USB devices.
There are no safety devices or protection circuits incorporated into the PT, other than the cut off timer.
Only constant at 5v if the rail stays at 5v. Sometimes it could be 5.3, sometimes 4.1 (seen as low as 2.2 on someone's computer I had to fix, but his ps was dying). The usb ports will regulate it to 5v if it's over. If it's lower, the capacitors will do their best to keep them at 5v as long as they can, but that won't be long depending on how much lower the voltage is.
I have had a pt for a few months now and it works perfect, granted it gets used only when I am in the car but still
sweetblackkitten;
I have been using a pt on the work computer nonstop for 9 hours a day chain vaping and nothing has happened. The pt and the computer (pc) are just fine. You can also get the wall adapter for a little over two bucks. I got both the wall adapter and pt at madvapes. Still vaping strong for me.
I have been using a pt on the work computer nonstop for 9 hours a day chain vaping and nothing has happened. The pt and the computer (pc) are just fine. You can also get the wall adapter for a little over two bucks. I got both the wall adapter and pt at madvapes. Still vaping strong for me.
I'm having trouble, too. My brand-new pass-thru died after less than two weeks of use. If I can hit the button "just right," which requires a great deal of skill and a luck, it will work. Otherwise, it's dead. My last one lasted 6 months or more, but I have had too many dud pass-thru's over the past year or so.
I don't know why they can't just make a higher quality pass-thru that won't break so easily. It's not as if it's dirt cheap to buy them; they're fairly expensive.
I don't know why they can't just make a higher quality pass-thru that won't break so easily. It's not as if it's dirt cheap to buy them; they're fairly expensive.
I have only used V4L pt. When they work, they are great, but they are fickle. My automatics are very iffy; very seldom working on a wall plug or in the car. My autos work better, but the button is not always dependable.
Nobody is going to like the following words: I have had my auto p/t for 4 months and use it everyday. It has worked flawlessly on my computer, in my car, and it is producing clouds of 555 vapor as I am typing this very moment.
I recently got a 2nd p/t a month ago and so far it has performed flawlessly, although there is a slight difference in design on the end where the Carto screws on.
My friend has gone through 2 auto p/t in the last 60 days, 1 heated up and died while the other just died or so he thought. He contacted me about the 2nd, took a quick pic and e-mailed it to me. The newer p/ts have smaller, less-defined "terminal post/center connector" for lack of a better word and smaller center hole. This difference exists with both of my p/ts as well.
The newer terminal posts look like they are thinner in design and I have recently had to bend them up on some of my batteries which share this newer design. I suggested to my buddy to take a paper clip, place it in the center hole and apply a little leverage on one side to lift the contact and then the other to even it out.
Bingo! His once dead p/t is now alive and kicking again.
All it takes is one Carto that has center connector/terminal post whatever you want to call it, to be off by 1-1.5 mm, that is to say longer and it pushes the batt or p/t center connector/terminal post down. Go to screw on another Carto, now it doesn't work. Try a few more Cartos, still doesn't work, but put the last Carto that worked on it and it does work. (sorry kinda excessively wordy)
I'm sure this won't work as a fix for everybody, but it's at least worth a try.
I recently got a 2nd p/t a month ago and so far it has performed flawlessly, although there is a slight difference in design on the end where the Carto screws on.
My friend has gone through 2 auto p/t in the last 60 days, 1 heated up and died while the other just died or so he thought. He contacted me about the 2nd, took a quick pic and e-mailed it to me. The newer p/ts have smaller, less-defined "terminal post/center connector" for lack of a better word and smaller center hole. This difference exists with both of my p/ts as well.
The newer terminal posts look like they are thinner in design and I have recently had to bend them up on some of my batteries which share this newer design. I suggested to my buddy to take a paper clip, place it in the center hole and apply a little leverage on one side to lift the contact and then the other to even it out.
Bingo! His once dead p/t is now alive and kicking again.
All it takes is one Carto that has center connector/terminal post whatever you want to call it, to be off by 1-1.5 mm, that is to say longer and it pushes the batt or p/t center connector/terminal post down. Go to screw on another Carto, now it doesn't work. Try a few more Cartos, still doesn't work, but put the last Carto that worked on it and it does work. (sorry kinda excessively wordy)
I'm sure this won't work as a fix for everybody, but it's at least worth a try.
I'm not very good at that sort of mechanical thing, but I'll give it a try. Thank you!
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