Geyscano Box Mod (Chinese 50 Watt BF'er)

[drmarble]

A 1/16" inner diameter 1/16" wall thickness tubing is commonly used. You need the thick walls to keep the tubing from crushing when you squonk. If the tubing is too soft it squeezes closed when you squeeze the bottle and little goes to the atty. It sucks it back in great because you are no longer putting pressure on the bottle so the hose expands. You can slide some steel tubing inside the hose to stiffen it. You could use a cut off needle. It needs to be large (1/16" hole). I bought a lot of silicone tubing and hypodermic tubing from Amazon.
Some folks use oxygen tank hose. If you know someone who uses it they probably have plenty lying around.

 

[mackman]

delete

 

[Phone Guy]

A 1/16" inner diameter 1/16" wall thickness tubing is commonly used. You need the thick walls to keep the tubing from crushing when you squonk. If the tubing is too soft it squeezes closed when you squeeze the bottle and little goes to the atty. It sucks it back in great because you are no longer putting pressure on the bottle so the hose expands. You can slide some steel tubing inside the hose to stiffen it. You could use a cut off needle. It needs to be large (1/16" hole). I bought a lot of silicone tubing and hypodermic tubing from Amazon.
Some folks use oxygen tank hose. If you know someone who uses it they probably have plenty lying around.

I bought fuel line for an rc car from a hobby store. Marked only with "2ft tubing."

I need to try my drill bits to see what the diameter is.

The chip in the geyscano is one of the worse dna clones I've ever used. Eats batteries, requires 2 pushes plus extra second delay to produce vapor, flakes out beyond 30w, very not impressed with the chip.

Fire button is nice, magnetic door is fine. Giant logo is f'ugly. + / - buttons want to stick all the time. It really needs a new chip.

What other bottom feeder attys are out there, and or is it hard to make attys bottom feed?

I just got an omerta, n22, sword, gauntlet, cats, and another I can't remember.. All clones btw.

 

[Nomoreash]

I bought fuel line for an rc car from a hobby store. Marked only with "2ft tubing."

I need to try my drill bits to see what the diameter is.

The chip in the geyscano is one of the worse dna clones I've ever used. Eats batteries, requires 2 pushes plus extra second delay to produce vapor, flakes out beyond 30w, very not impressed with the chip.

Fire button is nice, magnetic door is fine. Giant logo is f'ugly. + / - buttons want to stick all the time. It really needs a new chip.

What other bottom feeder attys are out there, and or is it hard to make attys bottom feed?

I just got an omerta, n22, sword, gauntlet, cats, and another I can't remember.. All clones btw.

I hear ya with the chip. I'm not a high power user so I didn't notice it wimping out above 30w but others have talked about the same thing. I did do some accuracy comparison below 20w an it was pretty much spot on. They seem to be doing doors with no logo now but I guess we'll have to live with ours. The delay coming out of stand by is what I couldn't get past. I did an overhaul and replaced it with an authentic DNA 40 but it had the screen issue so I'm waiting on a replacement.

You might be able to help your up/down sticking, it's most likely a spacing issue. The chrome actuators make contact with and push small tact switches mounted on the pcb. They need to be lined up perfect and spacing between them has to be just right. To close and they can bind and stick, to far and they won't make enough contact. It's a fine line and with chinas lack of qc it often isn't right.

The only produced attys that will work with bottom feeders I'm aware of are the A7, M6, Chalice, Cyclone and the ones that Reo does. There's some info in the modders section on converting attys to a BF but I've never done it myself. I had my Magma clone converted to a bottom feeder by Chowderhead1972. He does BF modifications for a many different attys and can be found here:

Catfish atty mods. | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[mackman]

Phone guy if you are looking to go cheap to try some out there is this which comes with a bf pin
Hobo V3 Style Rebuildable Atomizer RDA Silver+Extra Bottom Feeding Pin
and Desert Vapes sells a bf A6S for $6.95. Angelcigs also sells a Derringer for $8 that will take about 5 minutes to mod to bf. All you have to do is unscrew the bottom center pin insert and drill a feed hole above the deck. Countless other clones are easily modded too.

 

[Phone Guy]

Thanks for those excellent replies guys! Info I needed for sure.

I know this is a stupid question, but I'm going to ask it anyway because I'm not an experienced dripper (top or bottom.. LOL)...... Is there a lot of difference between any of the mentioned drippers and the included BF dripper? I'm kind of assuming the included BF atty is sub par, and another better designed or smaller atty would perform better?

I didn't have time to play much today, spent the entire day setting up uverse Internet and unsuccessfully I might add. I completely failed at using my Asus (Tmobile branded) router with the at&t modem. The combination, for some reason, blocked all the port forwarding for my networked stuff and it took me hours and hours to finally realize it.

 

[Nomoreash]

Thanks for those excellent replies guys! Info I needed for sure.

I know this is a stupid question, but I'm going to ask it anyway because I'm not an experienced dripper (top or bottom.. LOL)...... Is there a lot of difference between any of the mentioned drippers and the included BF dripper? I'm kind of assuming the included BF atty is sub par, and another better designed or smaller atty would perform better?

I didn't have time to play much today, spent the entire day setting up uverse Internet and unsuccessfully I might add. I completely failed at using my Asus (Tmobile branded) router with the at&t modem. The combination, for some reason, blocked all the port forwarding for my networked stuff and it took me hours and hours to finally realize it.

Attys are attys whether we're dripping from the top or feeding from the bottom really makes no difference other than convenience, so yes atty design and coil build is going to play a role either way. I thought the included atty was ok, nothing special but I did get it performing quite well once I figured out how to work with it's strange design. It doesn't touch the Magma imo but that's preference, someone else may like a more open draw and/or completely different design.

I prefer bottom, no extra bottle to lug around and once you get the hang of it, it's very hard to flood due to suction pulling the extra juice back down. I haven't had a drop of leakage from my Magma since I converted it to a bf, before that when dripping from the top I did have some issues of extra juice coming out the airholes or it leaking when on it's side.

 

[Phone Guy]

Well I upgraded my geyscano to a dna40 TC board (clone RAYN v4 pulled from my Vaporflask clone) I also changed the battery holder to a keystone holder. That was not as easy as I thought it would be. The original chip has a completely different layout and a little southern engineering was needed, but worked.

I also had a n22 atty with the side / bottom fed air flow that I cut a notch in the 510 insulator to make bottom feed... The atty experiment was a fail. It feeds liquid ok, but it also pools inside the 510 of the mod. The geyscano bottom feeder atty does not do that.

So after trying a TC build in the n22 and having lots of resistance reading problems, I built the included atty with ni200 and got better results.

I'm not impressed with the geyscano atty, which is why I was trying to make another BF atty from one of my drippers laying around getting no use.

My limited experience tells me cutting the insulator for the 510 pin of the atty is not the way to do it... At least not with this 510 on the geyscano.

Cutting the insulator "worked" in the sense liquid goes into the atty, which the n22 has a decent well. But because the insulator is not snug any more tightening the atty (n22) to the geyscano makes the center post move up. Maybe some loctite or something to secure the insulator and preventing the attys center post to move up when you tightened it might help.

But now my geyscano has a 40w temp control chip with a superior battery sled, the only thing I lost was the covers hiding all the wires and chip. They wouldn't fit back on right and allow the magnetic door to slide in.

 

[unsure]

The inexpensive atty included surprising was pretty good. As a matter of fact I was offering a trade with my RM2s. Anyone know the name of the BF atty?

 

[Phone Guy]

anyone have any pictures of successful flavorful builds with the included geyscano atty....?

 

[unsure]

I bought fuel line for an rc car from a hobby store. Marked only with "2ft tubing."

I need to try my drill bits to see what the diameter is.

The chip in the geyscano is one of the worse dna clones I've ever used. Eats batteries, requires 2 pushes plus extra second delay to produce vapor, flakes out beyond 30w, very not impressed with the chip.

Fire button is nice, magnetic door is fine. Giant logo is f'ugly. + / - buttons want to stick all the time. It really needs a new chip.

What other bottom feeder attys are out there, and or is it hard to make attys bottom feed?

I just got an omerta, n22, sword, gauntlet, cats, and another I can't remember.. All clones btw.

You can't tell from this pic with the Woodvil in the way but I just got another abd NO LOGO just plain flat black.
BF Gold Cyclone
BF Manta both fron Tom's Catfish
BF Geyscano atty which I'm willing to trade or buy to get another.

 

[Nomoreash]

anyone have any pictures of successful flavorful builds with the included geyscano atty....?

I'm also just now finishing up upgrading to an authentic DNA40. I'm also doing the battery sled and connector not that it's really needed. I already had a Keystone sled and thought wth since I'm upgrading and I wanted to be able to use my A7 and M6 with it which gets airflow from the connector and the Geyscano connector didn't have any air slot, was a nice connector otherwise, I was surprised.

Everything is pretty straight forward except for spacing the up/down actuators since the Geyscano board is longer than the DNA 40. I'll post more on that when I'm finished probably tomorrow.

As for the atty that came with it, just this straight forward build has been working great for me. I line the bottom of the coil with the top of the lip. That puts the airflow slot directly in front of the coil when it's pushed all the way down on the Geyscano. Then I adjust the airflow to my liking and make sure the opening is directly in front of the coil.

edit:
Finished the upgrade. If you’ve modded It’s straight forward with enough room to work in, the power button and 510 connector are held in with a nut and easy to remove if needed. Biggest obstacle is lining and spacing the up/down tact switches with the actuators since this board was a different size and layout than the DNA 40 but it’s doable with some imagination. Easiest solution is to use through hole buttons for the up/down but I wanted to keep the same look. I wound up cutting that section off the board to keep the spacing, running wires to the switches and had to dremel the surface of the board to remove circuit traces. Then made a spacer to fit between the board and battery holder. That and getting the hot glue out took the longest.

 

[unsure]

anyone have any pictures of successful flavorful builds with the included geyscano atty....?

If Nomoreash's pic is of a atty that came with the Geyscano the new ones are different. My latest atty has only 2 post not 3.

 

[Nomoreash]

If Nomoreash's pic is of a atty that came with the Geyscano the new ones are different. My latest atty has only 2 post not 3.

It's the older one from the first batch.

 

[unsure]

It's the older one from the first batch.

Your 100% correct my friend and I have my head up my .....

I was totally wrong and your pic is the same (3 post atty) that came with both of my Geyscano. Sorry for the incorrect info I put out there.

 

[Phone Guy]

I'm also just now finishing up upgrading to an authentic DNA40. I'm also doing the battery sled and connector not that it's really needed. I already had a Keystone sled and thought wth since I'm upgrading and I wanted to be able to use my A7 and M6 with it which gets airflow from the connector and the Geyscano connector didn't have any air slot, was a nice connector otherwise, I was surprised.

Everything is pretty straight forward except for spacing the up/down actuators since the Geyscano board is longer than the DNA 40. I'll post more on that when I'm finished probably tomorrow.

As for the atty that came with it, just this straight forward build has been working great for me. I line the bottom of the coil with the top of the lip. That puts the airflow slot directly in front of the coil when it's pushed all the way down on the Geyscano. Then I adjust the airflow to my liking and make sure the opening is directly in front of the coil.




View attachment 464005


edit:
Finished the upgrade. If you’ve modded It’s straight forward with enough room to work in, the power button and 510 connector are held in with a nut and easy to remove if needed. Biggest obstacle is lining and spacing the up/down tact switches with the actuators since this board was a different size and layout than the DNA 40 but it’s doable with some imagination. Easiest solution is to use through hole buttons for the up/down but I wanted to keep the same look. I wound up cutting that section off the board to keep the spacing, running wires to the switches and had to dremel the surface of the board to remove circuit traces. Then made a spacer to fit between the board and battery holder. That and getting the hot glue out took the longest.

During my dna40 transplant I sacrificed the original 50w board completely in order to keep the up /down buttons the same. I essentially did the same thing, I cut off the back (button section) of the original 50w board, removed the buttons, soldered wires to them and hot glued them back to the board piece then hot glued the board next to the keystone battery sled.

Like you, I had the extra keystone sled, so why not install it. Had to trim the top of the sled for the fire button which is arguably one of the nicest buttons I've seen on a mod.

My only issue with the upgrade is afterwards I couldn't hide the chip and wires any more. Those little plastic hoods don't fit anymore. The electronics are different heights thicknesses, etc.. So with the magnetic door off I can see all that hot glue. It looks like a mess but works great with the included BF atty.

Im assuming to properly mod a dripper for BF I'd need to drill a tiny feeder hole in the 510 pin and ports on the center pole inside the atty itself. that's a little above my skill set.

 

[Nomoreash]

My only issue with the upgrade is afterwards I couldn't hide the chip and wires any more. Those little plastic hoods don't fit anymore. The electronics are different heights thicknesses, etc.. So with the magnetic door off I can see all that hot glue. It looks like a mess but works great with the included BF atty.

Im assuming to properly mod a dripper for BF I'd need to drill a tiny feeder hole in the 510 pin and ports on the center pole inside the atty itself. that's a little above my skill set.

Hey we didn't do it to be pretty inside. Only ones that's going to see it is us, as long as it works as desired slide the door on and vape. I'm just trilled to get rid of that regulator and stupid delay. It's not like we're going to be able to resell it and get our money and/or time invested back on a upgraded Geyscano. If its really bothersome you might be able to find something thinner and cut to size, it's only cosmetic anyway.

Drilling the center pin and cutting to length or drilling a feeder hole inside is the right way to do it . I've never tried it, wouldn't want to attempt it with a hand drill. I've read people doing other methods with various results though. More attys are slowly coming out with open center pin, the Hobo clone and a bf center pin for the Origen is available, etc. Hopefully with the comeback of bottom feeders we'll see more and more with either optional center pins or designed for bottom feeders soon.

 

[Phone Guy]

Fat daddy Vapes has a BF conversion kit. But I'm a little unclear how to use it. He talks more about a needle than a threaded center pin.

 

[unsure]

Well I upgraded my geyscano to a dna40 TC board (clone RAYN v4 pulled from my Vaporflask clone) I also changed the battery holder to a keystone holder. That was not as easy as I thought it would be. The original chip has a completely different layout and a little southern engineering was needed, but worked.

I also had a n22 atty with the side / bottom fed air flow that I cut a notch in the 510 insulator to make bottom feed... The atty experiment was a fail. It feeds liquid ok, but it also pools inside the 510 of the mod. The geyscano bottom feeder atty does not do that.

So after trying a TC build in the n22 and having lots of resistance reading problems, I built the included atty with ni200 and got better results.

I'm not impressed with the geyscano atty, which is why I was trying to make another BF atty from one of my drippers laying around getting no use.

My limited experience tells me cutting the insulator for the 510 pin of the atty is not the way to do it... At least not with this 510 on the geyscano.

Cutting the insulator "worked" in the sense liquid goes into the atty, which the n22 has a decent well. But because the insulator is not snug any more tightening the atty (n22) to the geyscano makes the center post move up. Maybe some loctite or something to secure the insulator and preventing the attys center post to move up when you tightened it might help.

But now my geyscano has a 40w temp control chip with a superior battery sled, the only thing I lost was the covers hiding all the wires and chip. They wouldn't fit back on right and allow the magnetic door to slide in.

I'd love to see a pic of your inventive work.

 

[Squonk_me]

Pulled the 510 tube/pin out and replaced it with a 6/32 vented screw. I used a tap on the insert on the original 510 and the screw fits tight. Soldered it all back together and what a difference! The old tube on the 510 is so much smaller than the 6/32 screw. Better connection for the tube from the bottle. I've been using it for a couple days and it all seems fine now. using the old bottle and tubing. just a new screw is all it needed!

Q-Geyscano Fix

• Squonk_me
• Jun 24, 2015