ggtb w/t 510 help

[sosolidgold]

i have been vaping 6 volts with a few 510's some work well and some don't. i have a 510 adapter that i first screw in all the way and then place a 510 on it. one is a green house one that worked well for a while and the other is a tw 510 that seems to fire inconsistently. i'll press the button and hold it down, it will fire for a second and stop. what is going on here? the atty still works on an ego batt and this started happening on the green house one. my rn4081 w/t 510 adapter still works. so i think it may be the atty. i have also heard of a lot of ppl using lr atties 2.0 at 6volts. i have a shorty 801 lr from iken that won't fire at all in addition to a 901 lr that won't fire at all. i applied noloax to the firing button too. any advice would be much appreciated. just don't understand what is going on, it's my favorite mod to vape at home and it completely satisfies my crave for an analog. my only problem with the ggtb is i really REALLY want a ggts lol. help me get my baby back!

 

[buGG]

it may be your adapters. put your 510 or 801 adapter on and put the tip of your tongue on it when pressing the button. this will let you know that you are getting current and that there's no problems with your center post, batteries, or anything below the atty. don't worry about putting your tongue on the adapter, it's nothing harsh at all, just a slight tingle. if you get that tingle, then connect your atty but don't over-tighten it. particularly with the 510 attys, you only want to feel the resistance when tightening it, and then turn it just a bit more to line up the air holes. over-tightening them can cause various problems, like a short circuit, particularly with aftermarket adapters too. if these attys are working on other setups, this should remedy the issue with your GGTB. if you're not getting the tingle, then the issue is below the adapter. take it off and try the same tongue test with the native 901 connection. if that works, the problem is the adapter itself. if that doesn't work then the center post of the native connection cold be the problem, or the batteries, but this is probably not the case. failed adapters or over-tightened attys, particularly 510s, are common problems...hopefully that's the case here.

as far as the attys at 6V, well the GH1 510 (Boge I think) is 2.8Ω, which is doable. even the standard Joye 510s at 2.3Ω are doable at 6V, but that's a lot of watts, a lot of heat, and their life and performance is going to diminish a lot faster than a higher resistance atty would in the same setup. i don't know what the TW 510s are, if not Joye's, but at 6V use at your own risk. same with the 2Ω 810 atty. you'll want to pulse the button, rather than hold it in, keep the atty wet, and take shorter hits as to not overheat it and pop it prematurely. i use that 2Ω 801 mini at 3.7V in the GGTB with the AW17670 and it's a nice vape for me, but i can appreciate going even lower and generating more heat and a harsher throat kick with a LR. however, 2Ω atty at 6V may be a bit much, and even with the standard Joye's i'll only use them at 6V in a tank system like the AVS/AFS.

 

[sosolidgold]

wow, thank you. bugg, much respect i seen you around and really appreciate getting advice from you. i will def try checking the current and clarifying "overtightening" helps a lot as i have been trying to tighten and loosen to get it working. the gh1 worked for a long time.

i did get the idea of pulsing really quick as i was afraid i would pop an atty. i find that flavor will not be lost with this method of vaping at 6 volts. i always thought it would be a bad idea to put an lr on 6 volts but after getting fed up with my shorty 801's vapor production/burnt taste, i popped off the bridge making it worse and thought maybe this would be better at 6 volts because i noticed it takes a min for the coil to heat up. at this point i didn't care if i popped it i just wanted a different response out of it lol

 

[cypresss]

The other possibility is that the battery's protection circuit (assuming it's protected) is activating. If the resistance of your atomizer is too low, it may draw too much current from the batteries and exceed the protection circuit's limit.

 

[Joseph112]

The other possibility is that the battery's protection circuit (assuming it's protected) is activating. If the resistance of your atomizer is too low, it may draw too much current from the batteries and exceed the protection circuit's limit.

Yes, this happen frequently with some trusfire 14500 batteries, the protection kick-in at you don't have power when you use 510 regular atomizers, but work well with 901 standard atomizers. Solution: trow away protected batteries and use IMR.
The best battery option for the GGTB appear to be the AW 17670

 

[cypresss]

The best battery option for the GGTB appear to be the AW 17670

I absolutely agree.
A close 2nd for me is (2) AW RCR-123a's. Other RCR's that I've tried (Ultrafires) won't fit because of the strip down the side.

 

[sosolidgold]

The other possibility is that the battery's protection circuit (assuming it's protected) is activating. If the resistance of your atomizer is too low, it may draw too much current from the batteries and exceed the protection circuit's limit.

ahh i think this is the problem. i checked the current on my adapters and they work fine... im using protected 3v 123 and when i throw on the lr it doesn't fire... totally makes sense now. i thought something like that may be going on perhaps i can get safer chem unprotected 123. they sell them at vaporkings. thank you cypresss

 

[JohnUK]

My GGTB works fine with RCR123 AW 3.7V protected and Ultrafire CR 123 3.0v.I'm using a 510 adapter from cloud9 UK with LR510'S cartos if that helps

 

[North Shore]

If you are having problems with battery shutdown, may I suggest that you switch over to using the LIFEP04 Tenergy's for six volt operation and AW 14500 LIMN batteries for 3.7 V and LR. You will need the Tenergy charger for the LifeP04 setup, but AW LIMN's do quite well on my Trustfire charger.

 

[B-Rad_The_Mad_Vapr]

You can charge all 3 types LiFePO4, LiMN, and Li-ion with the ultrafire WF-188 charger UltraFire WF-188 lithium dual bay battery charger

 

[sosolidgold]

can a charge a lifepo4 with this? Ultrafire WF-139 Charger for 14500 / 17500 / 18500 / 18650 / RCR123 3.7 volt Lithium Battery Charger i charge my limn 14500s with this just fine

 

[B-Rad_The_Mad_Vapr]

can a charge a lifepo4 with this? Ultrafire WF-139 Charger for 14500 / 17500 / 18500 / 18650 / RCR123 3.7 volt Lithium Battery Charger i charge my limn 14500s with this just fine

I don't know if that one can charge a LiFePO4, I never looked into it, IMO the WF-188 is the way to go.

Edit* I just read the manual for the WF-139 and it says nothing about being able to charge LiFe batts, the WF-188 does say that it can

 

[sosolidgold]

thank you much appreciated

 

[B-Rad_The_Mad_Vapr]

Your welcome

 

[Joseph112]

can a charge a lifepo4 with this? Ultrafire WF-139 Charger for 14500 / 17500 / 18500 / 18650 / RCR123 3.7 volt Lithium Battery Charger i charge my limn 14500s with this just fine

No the WF-139 WILL NOT CHARGE lifepo4 batteries, if you insert a lifepo4 battery in a WF139 will get damaged

 

[sosolidgold]

out of curiosity what are the requirements for charging lifepo4 batts? must it have a certain cut off voltage or a strictly a 3 volt charger?

 

[buGG]

out of curiosity what are the requirements for charging lifepo4 batts? must it have a certain cut off voltage or a strictly a 3 volt charger?

LiFePO4 cells are 3.2V, nominally, and the charger used for them must cut off at 3.6v and should not exceed 1C, or 1 X the capacity, in Amp hours, i.e. 500 mAh battery has a 500 mA or .5A charging capacity.