Gone through 6 Ft of Kanthal rebuilding a tank. None of them work. ...?

[Chiku]

A dripper would be much easier to learn on IMHO.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10006202/1475402-authentic-smoktech-scar-rebuildable-dripping

17.9 mm. The small chamber will be great for flavour.

I'll see if I can find some more.

 

[Chiku]

Few more

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004860/1391102-rda-mini-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer-1-5ml
14.3 mm

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004860/1395707-rda-mini-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer-1-0ml
14.4mm

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007018/1568100-yk5-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer
19mm

 

[TheAmazingDave]

The IGO-l on the VTR's extension tube doesn't look too ridiculous.

I was actually quite fond of it after a few minutes.

Stupid-easy to build. ~$16 without tip.

 

[LucentShadow]

But I can use yarn or cotton instead of mesh?

You can. If putting the wick into the tank, through the small hole, you may want to try something like several strands of viscose bamboo thread (Aunt Lydia's brand), as I find them easier to shove through the hole, and stay intact. Cotton butcher's string may work.

You can also just use loose cotton from a cotton ball, but you may be better off leaving that just into the hole, and tilt to re-wet it.

Regarding rebuilding the eVod/ProTank heads, I thought I'd put in a link to a written guide, with pictures. I like those better than videos.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/404174-evod-protank-head-rebuild.html

Also, I wonder if you were putting a top wick on the coil, often called a 'flavor wick'. I call those an insulator to keep the coil from shorting to the top cap. Have to make sure the positive end of the coil does not touch any of the surrounding metal, at all. It's not good if the negative end does, but that would only be a partial short-circuit.

 

[Elendil]

You can. If putting the wick into the tank, through the small hole, you may want to try something like several strands of viscose bamboo thread (Aunt Lydia's brand), as I find them easier to shove through the hole, and stay intact. Cotton butcher's string may work.

You can also just use loose cotton from a cotton ball, but you may be better off leaving that just into the hole, and tilt to re-wet it.

Regarding rebuilding the eVod/ProTank heads, I thought I'd put in a link to a written guide, with pictures. I like those better than videos.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/404174-evod-protank-head-rebuild.html

Also, I wonder if you were putting a top wick on the coil, often called a 'flavor wick'. I call those an insulator to keep the coil from shorting to the top cap. Have to make sure the positive end of the coil does not touch any of the surrounding metal, at all. It's not good if the negative end does, but that would only be a partial short-circuit.

My problem was I they would only fire once before I wicked them or even put the cap on. Regarding the first part of your post, I do not understand what you are saying. I can't use regular cotton to wick the coil in the model I ordered?

 

[Elendil]

You can. If putting the wick into the tank, through the small hole, you may want to try something like several strands of viscose bamboo thread (Aunt Lydia's brand), as I find them easier to shove through the hole, and stay intact. Cotton butcher's string may work.

You can also just use loose cotton from a cotton ball, but you may be better off leaving that just into the hole, and tilt to re-wet it.

Regarding rebuilding the eVod/ProTank heads, I thought I'd put in a link to a written guide, with pictures. I like those better than videos.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/404174-evod-protank-head-rebuild.html

Also, I wonder if you were putting a top wick on the coil, often called a 'flavor wick'. I call those an insulator to keep the coil from shorting to the top cap. Have to make sure the positive end of the coil does not touch any of the surrounding metal, at all. It's not good if the negative end does, but that would only be a partial short-circuit.

I did everything like you describe in the pics (except I used a drill bit). However, my coils endue less pretty because it took me 1/2 hour to get my wick threaded, I just can't do it well even after 25 tries.

 

[Jonathan Rizo]

maybe these video's might help you making coils a little easier...


Part 1
Wrapping the tightest micro coil you've ever wrapped with no heat or squeezing required
Micro Coils 101 - Part One - Making The Tightest Coil You've Ever Made - YouTube
Part 2
Mounting the coil
Micro Coils 101 - Part Two - Mounting The Coil In A Bottom Fed Or Dripping Rebuildable Atomizer - YouTube
Part 3
Wicking and vaping
Micro Coils 101 - Part Three - Wicking And Vaping - YouTube

 

[PhatRon]

It sounds to me if you are getting the non reading then your PT is not making a good connection in the 510 connection. Make sure you screw the atomizer head in all the way tight and maybe try pulling the contact pin on the bottom of the head out just a little bit.

 

[LucentShadow]

My problem was I they would only fire once before I wicked them or even put the cap on. Regarding the first part of your post, I do not understand what you are saying. I can't use regular cotton to wick the coil in the model I ordered?

You can use most any kind of cotton in a genesis-type atomizer, but they were designed to have a tightly-rolled mesh wick that goes through the hole in the deck between the atomizing chamber and the tank. The coil wraps around the part sticking up into the atomizing chamber, in a vertical position. The problem with that is that the coil can short to the mesh wick, which can short to the sides of the hole in the deck.

If you use cotton, you lose the rigidity of the mesh wick, making it more difficult to get the wick through the hole, and the bottom of the wick will tend to float in the liquid a bit. It will still work fine, though. There are a lot of variations possible on a genesis atty, so many set them up in different ways. This is a good thread to see a few ways to use cotton in a genesis-type atty:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...s/464575-cotton-wick-genesis-style-rba-2.html

As for the ProTank problems, I'm a bit stumped. At this point, I'm thinking that the legs of the coil may be melting through the top of the grommet in the base, and shorting to the other connector, when dry-fired. Or, the pin in the protank base may have poor contact with the head's center pin.

 

[treehead]

Ok built one more. Came out to 1.3 ohms. Moistened the wick, put the tank back together. Wait 30 minutes for the wick to be saturated. Actually got 2 hits before it stopped working.....again. They were 2 of the nastiest, ....tiest hits I have ever had. Probably lucky it burnt out. I am convinced the PT II's are the biggest pieces of .... on the market.

My last 3 feet of kanthal and 5 pro tanks are now in the trash. Obviously coil building is not for me.

Maybe your wattage is too high, for some reason my aspire glasso would trip the short cut-off on my battery at fairly low wattages. I'd try building a coil around 1.8ohms like the protanks usually come with, and go to the lowest voltage you can, then slowing climb up. I'm guessing somewhere in your clearo there's a short happening, maybe even juice on you battery's post (which was a problem I didn't know about until my battery stopped working lol, it caused all sorts of annoying problems from low volts, to spikes/shorts, and then constantly tripping itself). I know it's a pain the .... but I'd take everything apart and wipe it down then re-assemble (I'm sure you already did though). All I can suggest is put one end of the coil on the outside of the rubber insulator hugging the metal body, and the other through the middle of the insulator's hole, and then smush it all together, be sure that your coils lines aren't crossing or both touching the body, at least one needs to be isolated from everything. (this was the hardest part for me with the lack of room, my coil leads kept touching before the actual coil and they blew up/tripped.

 

[dripdaze]

If you had a multimeter you could check the resistance of the coil instead of just having a go-nogo test. I'm betting that nothing is wrong with your coil but you have a connection issue between your mod and the atty.

 

[Elendil]

A dripper would be much easier to learn on IMHO.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10006202/1475402-authentic-smoktech-scar-rebuildable-dripping

17.9 mm. The small chamber will be great for flavour.

I'll see if I can find some more.

With my job I need a tank. Can't take the time to drip every few minutes

 

[Elendil]

If you had a multimeter you could check the resistance of the coil instead of just having a go-nogo test. I'm betting that nothing is wrong with your coil but you have a connection issue between your mod and the atty.

My vtr has an ohm reading built in

 

[crxess]

Stopped reading after a few pages.

1)If you are getting NON and your coils are NOT broken, you are NOT shorting
NON = no coil found
2) I hate to say, you may be trashing coils that are fine - not knowing the equipment and issues

Okay, Kanger = center post suck! A common problem. Kanger is well known for short center pin that have problems making good contact on mods. Often this is resolved by slightly pulling the center pin down.
Problem is - when rebuilding you Push the center pin in tight during the build(short pin syndrome) need to pull it a touch

Also a common problem - Coil wires are not secured with screws like in a Dripper. They rely on pressure to make good contact with the metal parts.
Good contact comes from several things.
First - CLEAN inner area of coil head where the negative leg will make contact. - Carbon is an insulator and will stop the coil from functioning. Metal should be clean and shiny.

Second - coil leg position and tension. make sure legs do not cross and are fairly tight through installation. only clip after one last tug to make sure slack is out of the wires.
Third - Pulse the coil several times after checking resistance to set the legs. i.e. arch them into good contact. Re-read the ohms. They should drop a bit.

Last but not least - DO NOT WASTE 6ft of wire, 3" at a time then come here. If you are not sure - Post and lets figure things out.
Oh and find a few simple videos to review - SAVE Rip Tripper for entertainment
If Phil Busardo can build a Kanger coil I'm sure you can also.

Edit: Forgot this tip:
Should you really give up - Respect those in need - Do not trash usable gear - pay it forward

 

[dripdaze]

My vtr has an ohm reading built in

You should be using it. What does it read on a fresh coil and then what does it read after the coil ceases to function? Those readings would be a clue. Not very good due to the lack of standards in how mods indicate shorts and opens but it would help a little. I still think your coils are fine but you have connection issues.

 

[Chiku]

With my job I need a tank. Can't take the time to drip every few minutes

All I've been able to find with a tank are the genny's and the taifun GS (I don't know anything about the GS) that are under 19mm

$25.39 Taifun GS Style Rebuildable Atomizer (2.7-3.0mL) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[Elendil]

Stopped reading after a few pages.

1)If you are getting NON and your coils are NOT broken, you are NOT shorting
NON = no coil found
2) I hate to say, you may be trashing coils that are fine - not knowing the equipment and issues

Okay, Kanger = center post suck! A common problem. Kanger is well known for short center pin that have problems making good contact on mods. Often this is resolved by slightly pulling the center pin down.
Problem is - when rebuilding you Push the center pin in tight during the build(short pin syndrome) need to pull it a touch

Also a common problem - Coil wires are not secured with screws like in a Dripper. They rely on pressure to make good contact with the metal parts.
Good contact comes from several things.
First - CLEAN inner area of coil head where the negative leg will make contact. - Carbon is an insulator and will stop the coil from functioning. Metal should be clean and shiny.

Second - coil leg position and tension. make sure legs do not cross and are fairly tight through installation. only clip after one last tug to make sure slack is out of the wires.
Third - Pulse the coil several times after checking resistance to set the legs. i.e. arch them into good contact. Re-read the ohms. They should drop a bit.

Last but not least - DO NOT WASTE 6ft of wire, 3" at a time then come here. If you are not sure - Post and lets figure things out.
Oh and find a few simple videos to review - SAVE Rip Tripper for entertainment
If Phil Busardo can build a Kanger coil I'm sure you can also.

Edit: Forgot this tip:
Should you really give up - Respect those in need - Do not trash usable gear - pay it forward

Everything should be clean. I was using brand new heads fresh out of the wrapper. I used 6ft to build 25 coils. (None of which worked)

 

[Elendil]

Where do I get the mesh at for the Genesis style since I have them coming already?

 

[23skidoo]

400 Stainless Steel Mesh - 101 Vape

Or

500 Stainless Steel Mesh - 101 Vape

These are small pieces that will make a single genesis wick. That will get you going and you won't have to s-can a bigger/more expensive sheet if you can't get it working to your liking.

 

[Elendil]

400 Stainless Steel Mesh - 101 Vape

Or

500 Stainless Steel Mesh - 101 Vape

These are small pieces that will make a single genesis wick. That will get you going and you won't have to s-can a bigger/more expensive sheet if you can't get it working to your liking.

So each of these will only make 1 wick? With my track record I better get 30