GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

[Idaholandho]

Spheroid - Filler questions



This comes from the AussieVapers forum, if it is proved efficient, I'll put it on the tips & tricks section.

Sounds great! It seems like it would hold a bit more juice also. Are you going to give it a go?


I will be able to vape then shower .

 

[moya]

Hey Perseas and team. Just wanted to say that I received the replacement delerin rings you sent me, and everything is smooth sailing now; I was having issues with my AW 18350 firing at rest in the Paps.

Thank you!

 

[Kataphraktos]

And we all know who makes the best sea sponges...

Spheroid - Filler questions



This comes from the AussieVapers forum, if it is proved efficient, I'll put it on the tips & tricks section.

 

[Idaholandho]

And we all know who makes the best sea sponges...

The sea ?

 

[GB023]

Sounds great! It seems like it would hold a bit more juice also. Are you going to give it a go?


I will be able to vape then shower .

Very interesting ! I just can't wait for our leaders beta testing, gonna give this a try. The only problem I can think of is the sponge not letting go of the liquid.

And ID..Ho, you will have a lot more friends if you take that shower...

 

[Deas]

These are the internals of the switch.

I am partially responsible for your confusion, because I forgot to mention that the locking rectangle can be screwed into the switch base only from one side. If it is placed from the other side, it can't. Therefore, the solution is to pull it out gently, there wasn't any reason to be put there in the first place. If you manage to destroy it, no worries, I'll send you a new locking rectangle. But you have to comprehend the mechanics of the switch, if you want to assemble it right every time.

The button and the spring is a pair.
The switch base (with the insulator on it) and the locking rectangle is another pair.

You keep these pairs one upon the other as a whole with the help of the screw.

Perseas! Thank you so much for this! Thanks God I haven't started putting too much effort into trying to get the rectangle piece out I guess I was worried for a reason as I thought that the rectangle is a piece and not a ring with rectangle hole in it it's fixed and running good again, so I'm happy

I think what happened is that the hole in the locking ring matches the rectangle a bit too perfectly, and so it stuck on it at some point. I had to play around with it a bit to find a correct position on the button. I think I will work the facets with needle file a bit to give it enough freedom of movement.

But anyway, my problem solved and thank you very much for your help.

 

[andrebandre]

Respectfully, I feel a bit different. As I have many very nice ss mesh set ups and love to wrap a mesh wick. I have compared and compared silica and mesh for a very long time.
GVC has become an addiction of mine and this is my thought. Mesh gets very hot and the taste varies throughout the tank to me and it wrecks the mesh as there is a need to torch the mesh often to burn the residual sugars to maintain taste as a dry burn or two does not work as the residual is embedded deep. And, every time the mesh is torched it creates a new layer of oxidation and eventually will ruin the new clean taste quickly. It is also creates hot spots within the mesh, distorting it and crating holes(oxidation is not healthy).

Silica also gums up a bit due to the coagulation of sugar residue especially in small evaporation chambers as there is less area to dissipate the residue. But, the taste is very consistent with GVC used with silica medium. Silica is a snap to rinse and dryburn - maintain when needed. I think there is no comparison to my tobacco flavors as silica/cotton/ekowool win hands down in flavour to me. Even as I sit here I can not get over the flavour of the spheroid. Yes my S Turbine produces clouds like a burning mobile home but I am into flavor now more so than CLOUDS but, I will also tell you the clouds the Spheroid produce are amazing as well.
Looking at my set ups and the evolution of my collection, I have no ss in my GP rotation right now or the few GG's I use.
The fun part is finding what suits you the best. This is also what makes us a diverse community and how we all learn from one another.






Very true Brother, this is why you are the King.

I agree 100% with what you say about SS mesh, it is the reason why i am trying get away from it.
I will keep trying to tame the Spheroid till something gives.

 

[digitals]

That moment when you realize you set your wife's Spheroid up better than yours!


Tapd from the iPad.

 

[raqball]

I am diggin the Spheroid but need to rebuild and trim the fluff down a bit as I think I packed it to tight.

My SnP with Diver still gets the most use for now though.

Maybe once I nail down the amount of fluff and the correct wrap of the fluff the Spheroid will get more use.

 

[xtreme101]

Maybe once I nail down the amount of fluff and the correct wrap of the fluff the Spheroid will get more use.

Please do share when your sweet spot is indeed satisfied

 

[digitals]

I am diggin the Spheroid but need to rebuild and trim the fluff down a bit as I think I packed it to tight.

My SnP with Diver still gets the most use for now though.

Maybe once I nail down the amount of fluff and the correct wrap of the fluff the Spheroid will get more use.

I don't think I have done anything "special" to the Spheroid. Mind you I speak in inches, I used the fluff provided, trimmed to 2 3/4" in length, and 1" in width, wrapped twice around the bell, cut to sit just under the air hole. The tails of my wick are @ 1/2" in length, and that may even be a bit much. I think my coil wrap needs the most work.

Post your results when you find your successful build.


Tapd from the iPad.

 

[Deas]

These are the internals of the switch.

I am partially responsible for your confusion, because I forgot to mention that the locking rectangle can be screwed into the switch base only from one side. If it is placed from the other side, it can't. Therefore, the solution is to pull it out gently, there wasn't any reason to be put there in the first place. If you manage to destroy it, no worries, I'll send you a new locking rectangle. But you have to comprehend the mechanics of the switch, if you want to assemble it right every time.

The button and the spring is a pair.
The switch base (with the insulator on it) and the locking rectangle is another pair.

You keep these pairs one upon the other as a whole with the help of the screw.

All I had to do is clean the facets and edges of the rectangle part of the button and locking ring. The switch has such a precise cutting!

 

[raqball]

I don't think I have done anything "special" to the Spheroid. Mind you I speak in inches, I used the fluff provided, trimmed to 2 3/4" in length, and 1" in width, wrapped twice around the bell, cut to sit just under the air hole. The tails of my wick are @ 1/2" in length, and that may even be a bit much. I think my coil wrap needs the most work.

Post your results when you find your successful build.

I have the same juice in my SnP and Diver set up that I have in the Spheroid but I am getting different flavor between the two.

Both coils are at 1.5ish (Diver is 1.53 and Spheroid is 1.61) so I assume it has to be that my fluff is packed too tightly. I have some Sera filter wool on the way from eBay so I will have to wait until it arrives to redo the fluff..

I am getting muted flavor and much less vapor from the Spheroid. This was my 1st attempt at the Spheroid build (the coil on it is fine so I assume it's the fluff) but I am confident I will nail it down.

I did not trim the included fluff so that may be my issue.. I might give that a go!

 

[qorax]

Double Micro-coil : Doubled the Pleasure


Made it on my Kayfun Lite. Pictorial at Post#2057 HERE. Targeting it on my Spheroid next

 

[perseas]

Perseas! Thank you so much for this! Thanks God I haven't started putting too much effort into trying to get the rectangle piece out I guess I was worried for a reason as I thought that the rectangle is a piece and not a ring with rectangle hole in it it's fixed and running good again, so I'm happy

I think what happened is that the hole in the locking ring matches the rectangle a bit too perfectly, and so it stuck on it at some point. I had to play around with it a bit to find a correct position on the button. I think I will work the facets with needle file a bit to give it enough freedom of movement.

But anyway, my problem solved and thank you very much for your help.

All I had to do is clean the facets and edges of the rectangle part of the button and locking ring. The switch has such a precise cutting!

You are quite welcome

I was ready to write about it, there is no need to file the facets. If you do that, there is a strong possibility for the locking ring to stick continuously. This switch design requires precise cutting with 20 micron tolerance for the moving parts, a bit more and it doesn't work well. On August of 2012, we decided to create 2 sizes of this design, one for the GP Piccolo and one for the GP PAPS X. Today, after v2.5, v3, v2.6, v3.1 we know that this level of precision is counterproductive for the GP Piccolo. I put it gently, because the reason is the inability of many CNC shops to follow our schematics.

 

[digitals]

Question: what should I use to clean the contacts on the Lux? I've seen users recommend rubbing alcohol, but wanted to be sure that was okay for the GP. Also, I'm looking to bring a shine back to my Lux. I've tried a few cleaning posts, one of Q's, but I want it to resemble its appearance when I pulled it from the wrapper. Don't get me wrong, I love the patina, but wanna change it up.

:twocents:


Tapd from the iPad.

 

[qorax]

Question: what should I use to clean the contacts on the Lux? I've seen users recommend rubbing alcohol, but wanted to be sure that was okay for the GP. Also, I'm looking to bring a shine back to my Lux. I've tried a few cleaning posts, one of Q's, but I want it to resemble its appearance when I pulled it from the wrapper. Don't get me wrong, I love the patina, but wanna change it up.

:twocents:

In which case, cleaning it up with a standard detergent, then applying a metal polish (something like Mother's) and rubbing for your life is your only option.

 

[perseas]

Question: what should I use to clean the contacts on the Lux? I've seen users recommend rubbing alcohol, but wanted to be sure that was okay for the GP. Also, I'm looking to bring a shine back to my Lux. I've tried a few cleaning posts, one of Q's, but I want it to resemble its appearance when I pulled it from the wrapper. Don't get me wrong, I love the patina, but wanna change it up.

:twocents:


Tapd from the iPad.

For the contacts, you can use any non abrasive cleaner, like mild detergents, avoid ultra sonic cleaners. I clean mines with just hot water and a drop of dish detergent. Excess rubbing isn't recommended for all gold plated items.

 

[qorax]

For the contacts, you can use any non abrasive cleaner, like mild detergents, avoid ultra sonic cleaners. I clean mines with just hot water and a drop of dish detergent. Excess rubbing isn't recommended for all gold plated items.

Until now I haven't done anything to my Lux's internals... and they are yet shiny as new (got mine early May-13) If ever I do something it'd only be my aftershave sprayed on it and slightly wiped with a Q-tip.

 

[digitals]

In which case, cleaning it up with a standard detergent, then applying a metal polish (something like Mother's) and rubbing for your life is your only option.

"Rubbing for your life". I copy that as being extensive elbow grease to get the shine back. Dremel with a polishing wheel?


Tapd from the iPad.