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GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

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Nach

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Issue and a question.

This is what left of my tank after removing the end caps of my SnP. Didn't get dropped or anything. Broke as I was taking the end cap off.

What's the best way to remove the orings to put the red ones on? Diver will be going in tomorrow and I read earlier in this thread that they are better than the blacks for the Diver.

Just dry the o-rings, then give them a pinch & push with a firm grasp, the end you're pushing it to will raise off the device and you can then push that raised portion with your other thumb and roll it right off.
 

kiba

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Weird, none of mine are like that, for tightening you'd have to get a flathead and pliers in there at the same time which seems strange, is that what it's for? I usually just tighten them snug with some needle nose pliers while holding the bottom.

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SoonerChris

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Just dry the o-rings, then give them a pinch & push with a firm grasp, the end you're pushing it to will raise off the device and you can then push that raised portion with your other thumb and roll it right off.

What about the inside one?


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raqball

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What about the inside one?


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They are a bit of a pain. If you put the red ones in they work great for the Diver and I never had an issue using the red on a regulat Boge carto either.

I used a thin toothpick to poke the old ones out and then used tweezers to get the new ones in..

It's a bit of a pain but once they are in position you are good!
 

digitals

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What about the inside one?


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I did the same method Raq is suggesting. I used a needle though; same concept. They are easy to remove, and once you get a side started, they are easy to install as well.

Btw, I broke my first tank too :D
 

digitals

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Weird, none of mine are like that, for tightening you'd have to get a flathead and pliers in there at the same time which seems strange, is that what it's for? I usually just tighten them snug with some needle nose pliers while holding the bottom.

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I have both the Lux and SS, and only the SS is like that. Still though, I don't use a screwdriver on it. I do exactly as you stated and just needle nose pliers the nut with a finger on the button. I would hate to slip with a screwdriver and chip the post.
 

perseas

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Well apparently tile floors and the Spheroid tubes don't like each other and the tile floor won. Now my beloved, new bead blasted Spheroid tube is dented right at the starter threads. Anyone or Perseas can let me know when spare parts for the bead blasted Spheroid will be available again? Thanks.

I'll have them during September.
 

raqball

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So, tips for removing tank/carto (diver) when you have screwed it too tight to the top cap? Anyone? Just got my diver and although I don't plan on removing it for a while when the time comes I need suggestions.
Iv'e done that a few times and what I did was remove the juice from the tank, use carto tool in place of drip tip and slide the tank off the top. This will allow a better grip on the Diver to unscrew it from the top cap.
 

StaircaseWit

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I am using a single loop with the tails cut all the way down to the base..

Not the best photo but you get the idea I hope. Wicks great! 1.5'ish ohm coil.

IMG_20130830_090304.jpg


I'm a bit late on this, but I've been using this method for months and nothing else I've tried works as well. I use standard (not eko or xc or german) 3mm silica and as long as the loop is long enough to 'double over' to contact all the sera wool in a circle (it bends back over the coil to touch the wool) it can run as low as 0.6 ohm and still wick beautifully. The wool has to be loose to wick at that low resistance, but if it is it works great. And you never have to touch the wick when refilling.
 

Idaholandho

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So, tips for removing tank/carto (diver) when you have screwed it too tight to the top cap? Anyone? Just got my diver and although I don't plan on removing it for a while when the time comes I need suggestions.

The Greek Connection

Paps SS - SnP - Diver - Atmistique burritos tip

evytu7es.jpg

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I will use rubber bands. Just put one on the base and one on the PAPS cap and go to town. It may seem tough to get the rubber bands on the small pieces but, it works. This happens on many combinations and I find having to use them alot. :)
 

Kataphraktos

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So, tips for removing tank/carto (diver) when you have screwed it too tight to the top cap? Anyone? Just got my diver and although I don't plan on removing it for a while when the time comes I need suggestions.

Blah, deleted, answered the wrong question.
 

crss

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PAPS SS #2008 arrived. Mounted Stratus22 on top. A true work of art. Poor JM22, lost its top. This paps is just perfect. I can see my Kayfun LITE will look nice here. Back to the couch & ice my knee. I am waiting for some drip tips and the X to arrive in a few weeks. Thank you all so much for the support.
PAPSv2.5-n-Stratus22.jpg
 

Idaholandho

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Many have asked, so I thought I would post some useless pictures :)

Cleaning the fluff in the Spheroid is a snap. I have used this one hard every day and the juice is not wicking as I want it to. I simply run it under water and then dry with a towel, air dry or if in a hurry I will use a blow dryer(this will dry it fast).
I then pull off the fluff, turn it around and slide it back on(not sure why, I just do).
I find the wool wicks a bit better for some reason after I rinse it.

d0im8bU.jpg

UXBIfUX.jpg

ciNG9Bj.jpg
 
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