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GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

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perseas

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Hi Guys,

I am also now having the same problem with the switch on m my SS 2.5 sometimes fire a treat and others not. I have stripped the whole thing apart cleaned everything i can and polished, the brass was getting quite tarnished. But the problem is worse than it was a couple of days ago.
Do i need to put copper grease on this or something?
If i press hard on the switch it usually fires or if i wiggle the button while pressing.

No, there is no need to put anything on it, just clean the firing pin's surface for better conductivity. Press deeper the black insulator and make sure you have tightened the holding nut. I suppose the bottom of your batteries is not depressed. Inform me of the results please.
 
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fasteddie

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No, there is no need to put anything on it. Just press deeper the black insulator and make sure you have tightened the holding nut. Inform me of the results please.

thanks for the quick reply,

i have made sure the nut was tight which it was, the black insulator was in as far it it will go-the lip is fully down to the cap edge. i have put the battery in a bit tighter and it seems to be firing well now.

I had started putting batteries in slightly looser as i had it fire in my pocket last week and the whole thing got red hot. I though i had done the battery post adjustment too tight then, i could hear it vaping (not fully just quiet hiss) like it was ghosting when switch was not pressed. This has happened a couple of other times too.
I usually tighten so i just get some resistance on the battery for last 1/16-1/8th turn on threads, and so no rattle from battery. I do try and get this just right to makes sure threads are fully down on the tube-caps.
Do i need it tighter in?

thanks
 

perseas

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Dec 11, 2011
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www.vapourart.com
thanks for the quick reply,

i have made sure the nut was tight which it was, the black insulator was in as far it it will go-the lip is fully down to the cap edge. i have put the battery in a bit tighter and it seems to be firing well now.

I had started putting batteries in slightly looser as i had it fire in my pocket last week and the whole thing got red hot. I though i had done the battery post adjustment too tight then, i could hear it vaping (not fully just quiet hiss) like it was ghosting when switch was not pressed. This has happened a couple of other times too.
I usually tighten so i just get some resistance on the battery for last 1/16-1/8th turn on threads, and so no rattle from battery. I do try and get this just right to makes sure threads are fully down on the tube-caps.
Do i need it tighter in?

thanks

From your description, I assume that the distance of the firing pin from the surface of the insulator is less than it should, but without a measurement I cannot be sure. Could you please send me an email to info(at)vapourart.com to investigate it further?
 

Nach

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Here is the (finally) complete Lux!

D1gClue.jpg
6QSjvsy.jpg
 

ugot

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-SMT-

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I will say this about the Spheroid.. It delivers hands down, not even close, the best flavor of any RBA I have used..

I thought the Kayfun was awesome (and it is) but it does not even compare to the Spheroid in flavor.

Vapor production is about the same but man the Spheroid is a flavor producing machine!

I loaded up a KFL with the exact same juice that I have in the Spheroid and they taste different. The Spheroid makes my taste buds smile!

I actually feel like a fool because it took me so long to finally decide to get one..

The only other RBA that even comes close IMHO is the Diver..
Argh, now I've got to get the spheroid...I wish GP made a streamline mod to match it.....what looks good with it...?
 

villarino1k

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Take apart the whole base, clean it, check the condition of all insulators and assemble it again. If the issue persists, contact me.

So I took my spheroid apart. One of the posts isnt supposed to have a plastic insulator on it right? Kinda hard to tell in the pics but that screw post head is burnt, and part of the base is burnt. What caused this? I think thats what was burning inside the base when i had the spheroid on my mods. Still wondering why it was shorting out INSIDE the base. Ill give it a good cleaning right now and see if that fixes the problem.

One pic with flash and the other without...


 

villarino1k

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Take apart the whole base, clean it, check the condition of all insulators and assemble it again. If the issue persists, contact me.

Cleaned everything and made sure everything was tight. I think the post without the insulator wasn't screwed on completely making contact with the 510 pin base inside which might explain the burn marks on the post screw head and 520 pin base. That's my best quess
 

Kataphraktos

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May 1, 2013
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Argh, now I've got to get the spheroid...I wish GP made a streamline mod to match it.....what looks good with it...?

That would be the Piccolo, GP's 14500 mod. I picked up a SuperT Simplicity 14500 to load my Spheroids until the Piccolo with the new switch comes out shortly.

And, yes, you MUST get a Spheroid, I love mine so much I'm picking up a third with the next batch.
 

BlackBag

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Hi Sandy, I found a standard Zen tube worked fine. The Zen tube was not quite as tight as the S/P tube (which is very tight) but it is tight enough. However, I did go back to the S/N tube, killer and a short ss drip tip..

I got mine from Domo also & haven't had a single issue with it at all...love it! Customer service at Domo is top notch, that's for sure.

Now I just wish I had a longer glass tube for my SNP tank, so my Killer would sit flush in it.
 
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