GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

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bots

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Ordered a 23 SnP yesternight (I have a 22 on my lux with Sophia bathing - and like it better than all my other stuff), will sit on my Roller/Dingo. These is such a sophisticated combination - not lacking fluid whatever I do with it, easy-filling without needle - just great as always, Perseas! (Sophias are out of stock at the moment at Leo's - maybe would be a good idea to have Sophias in stock together with SnPs?)

So now I need to buy a Spheroid 22 AND a lux? ... I told the wife I wouldn't make any big purchases till around April…
That's fine - is not big, around 100mm, I guess - tell her ;)

I like what I saw about the 22 Spheroid, but am addicted to the SnPs right now - one more reason is the one-view-filling-meter ;) - and I'm using the pre made coils - never got a better wick by diying :eek:

but I also love my spheroids - so I will keep mine on my Piccolo (both from the old series) and maybe will keep one for the upcoming new piccolo. And maybe will get a bead blasted piccolo in the market somewhere - then I would need a bead blasted Spheroid, too :)

But - everybody here knows :) - things will change with every pic posted here :) :) :)
 
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qorax

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Carto-RBAs and the GP-SnP : TECHNIQUE

GP-SnP comes with some spare 'red' O-rings... the first thing one should do upon receiving this fine tank system is to replace it's inner RBA O-rings with those red ones. B'coz, with the stock setup - the SnP could be a PITA. Too tight for anything ~ and shall shred to glory!

...Clean the SnP tank in warm water and dry thoroughly. Remove the top part of the SnP tank and replace the 2 x inner brown hard Viton© food grade internal O-rings 9 x 1 mm and replace them with 2 x red soft Viton© food grade internal O-rings 9 x 1 mm, this will help when trying to turn the juice control on the Sophia as the red o-rings have less grip...
SnP_zps3dccf229.jpg

As Nach correctly opined earlier, and many followed thru, our Dv2's edges around its juice slots are indeed raw. A bit of filing before use helps. However, submerging the SnP (fully assembled) in a bowl of hot water for 10-15 minutes adapts it better to accept anything (tank RBAs). The O-rings get softer and the insertion becomes smooth.

Now we should douse the Dv2 (or any other Carto/RBA) with a generous amount of juice, pure VG the better. Then insert it with a twisting motion, under slight pressure and those 'shredding' could be effectively avoided, plus achieve an effortless passage and a clean pressure fit.

I've used the foregoing process successfully.
 

GB023

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So funny Golfbumbro, Ahlusion is the good stuff and rehab is for quitters.
So how are you liking your Aqua? I'm waiting for Kir Fanis to bring home a large clear tank.
I have seen somewhat puff a proprietary pic of one but don't think it was his.

I love my Aqua. I just snagged another from the classifieds. I am currently running a single micro/cotton coil at .9 ohms on a GP SS 2.5 with Hybrid adapter and it is performing amazing. I too am stalking cyber space for a clear tank, but I find in 18490 mode with current build, the battery needs changing and the tank filling at about the same time.
I will say bro, that IMHO the Aqua is no Kayfun killer, they are both great atomizers with different advantages to be appreciated.

BUT, a 22mm Spheroid with dedicated air control...How hard is that to wait for ?
 

qorax

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I love my Aqua. I just snagged another from the classifieds. I am currently running a single micro/cotton coil at .9 ohms on a GP SS 2.5 with Hybrid adapter and it is performing amazing. I too am stalking cyber space for a clear tank, but I find in 18490 mode with current build, the battery needs changing and the tank filling at about the same time.
I will say bro, that IMHO the Aqua is no Kayfun killer, they are both great atomizers with different advantages to be appreciated.


BUT, a 22mm Spheroid with dedicated air control...How hard is that to wait for ?

^Very very hard indeed.
 

Nach

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Just an update regarding the Diver v2's and their inherent o-ring shredding issue...

I have just used a diamond wheel bit in my Dremel and chamfered the sharp edges of the Diver v2's juice slots. They now are smooth and wont even shave off the skin from my finger as I run it across the slots. I feel this will be a much needed step for future use of the Diver v2 in any and all carto tanks, including the SnP!
 

Akdare

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Just an update regarding the Diver v2's and their inherent o-ring shredding issue...

I have just used a diamond wheel bit in my Dremel and chamfered the sharp edges of the Diver v2's juice slots. They now are smooth and wont even shave off the skin from my finger as I run it across the slots. I feel this will be a much needed step for future use of the Diver v2 in any and all carto tanks, including the SnP!

I'm about to do something similar to my Sophia. No problem with the red ring, it's the brown rings in the bottom that it hangs up on and shreds. The carto tool will at least go thru them now. If I insert from the bottom with the carto tool in the Sophia, it hangs on the juice control seam, on the outermost brown o ring. If I can get it past that, it locks down solid and won't go thru the second ring without shredding it, even with a lot of lube and a twisting motion.

I'm thinking that a small chamfer on the connector end of the Sophia would help get past both o rings. Not the actual 510 threading, but the "shoulder" near that end.




Sent from my iPad
 

Jojobo

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I haven't had an issue with the Sophia damaging any of the orings. Are you turning the Sophia (side to side motion) when inserting? It is tight but needs to be but I haven't had shredded orings on this. Without the SnP tool (I used a slap yo mama tool) I did shred but to maintain the coil, as long as the Sophia is closed tightly, no shredding.
 

chadsmo

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I asked this in another thread too but I'll try here.

At some point in the future I will be looking to get a Piccolo. Until then I have a Ba Gua as my 14500 mod. I saw a post on another forum that said that the GP TS Centre Post 2.5 works in the Ba Gua 22 version.

Does anyone think there is even a chance that it will work in the 14500 version? If so I'll order one soon.
 

Akdare

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I haven't had an issue with the Sophia damaging any of the orings. Are you turning the Sophia (side to side motion) when inserting? It is tight but needs to be but I haven't had shredded orings on this. Without the SnP tool (I used a slap yo mama tool) I did shred but to maintain the coil, as long as the Sophia is closed tightly, no shredding.

It's fine on all other tanks I have, so I do not think it is a problem with the Sophia. I took some measurements.

Sophia OD 9.14mm (exactly the same as the carto driver that comes with the SnP, and a Boge carto)

LEO Slim ID 9.62
IBTanked ID 9.70
SnP ID 9.33

There definitely is a difference...but, the SnP uses 9 x 1mm o-rings, and the others use 1.5mm. I don't have any way to measure the ID of the grooves where the o-rings sit.

Maybe the single o-ring set deeper in its groove is less likely to "roll", then shred...? I'm sure others will chime in with what they think. Certainly not trying to redesign anything, just trying to figure out what I can do to make this work for me and others with a similar issue. Because I really like the Sophia, and I love the SnP filling method.


Sent from my iPad
 

qorax

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I asked this in another thread too but I'll try here.

At some point in the future I will be looking to get a Piccolo. Until then I have a Ba Gua as my 14500 mod. I saw a post on another forum that said that the GP TS Centre Post 2.5 works in the Ba Gua 22 version.

Does anyone think there is even a chance that it will work in the 14500 version? If so I'll order one soon.

You can fit them (the Piccolo Telescopic Post into the Ba Gua) ~ but you can't make it close seamlessly.

Ba Gua + Piccolo POS exchange trial:





There's an AW IMR 14500 inside the Ba Gua, with the Piccolo Telescopic Post fully "screwed in", both the female & the male screws. It assembles - but there's a gap left between the top cap and the tube body.

And obviously, none of the Attys (tried with Spheroid, Euforia and the AGT) shall sit flush as well.
__________________________________________________
Note: The Paps v2.5 Telescopic Post wil also fit, but the gap shall remain.
 

chadsmo

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You can fit them (the Piccolo Telescopic Post into the Ba Gua) ~ but you can't make it close seamlessly.

Ba Gua + Piccolo POS exchange trial:





There's an AW IMR 14500 inside the Ba Gua, with the Piccolo Telescopic Post fully "screwed in", both the female & the male screws. It assembles - but there's a gap left between the top cap and the tube body.

And obviously, none of the Attys (tried with Spheroid, Euforia and the AGT) shall sit flush as well.
__________________________________________________
Note: The Paps v2.5 Telescopic Post wil also fit, but the gap shall remain.

Thanks for checking that out. That makes me sad cause the Ba Gua centre pin makes me cry.

What happens if you take the battery adjust screw off of the GP pin. Does the gap close up ? Would you lose conductivity without a flush surface.
 

perseas

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It's fine on all other tanks I have, so I do not think it is a problem with the Sophia. I took some measurements.

Sophia OD 9.14mm (exactly the same as the carto driver that comes with the SnP, and a Boge carto)

LEO Slim ID 9.62
IBTanked ID 9.70
SnP ID 9.33

There definitely is a difference...but, the SnP uses 9 x 1mm o-rings, and the others use 1.5mm. I don't have any way to measure the ID of the grooves where the o-rings sit.

Maybe the single o-ring set deeper in its groove is less likely to "roll", then shred...? I'm sure others will chime in with what they think. Certainly not trying to redesign anything, just trying to figure out what I can do to make this work for me and others with a similar issue. Because I really like the Sophia, and I love the SnP filling method.


Sent from my iPad

The ID of the caps's internal grooves is 0,8 mm and their width is 1,2 mm, so the O-rings can be compressed till to become flush with the lips of the grooves (by 0,2 mm from each side), permitting the insertion of a carto/RDA up to 9,14 mm in thickness.
 
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qorax

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Thanks for checking that out. That makes me sad cause the Ba Gua centre pin makes me cry.

1)What happens if you take the battery adjust screw off of the GP pin. Does the gap close up ? 2)Would you lose conductivity without a flush surface.

1) The gap is halved. Reduces but remains.
2) No conductivity issues ~ it'd fire perfectly.
 
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