You get one readymade ceramic cup (with wick-n-coil) and another ceramic in the package.
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You get one readymade ceramic cup (with wick-n-coil) and another ceramic in the package.
You are AWESOME !
No my friend, we only do what is expected from a client's point of view to be done and I admire the companies that do the same, I am a consumer too
The awesome in that case is you and all of our supportive family here who gives the same support without any invested interest.
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Ok, thanks. I was just thinking for spares just in case, plus I need to learn how to rebuild them since im new to this.
I was thinking about picking up a second sophia, cant have too many right, lol
There's also the FM-201 from FusionsMods: http://www.shop.fusionsmods.com/product.sc?productId=7&categoryId=1
I own the FM-201 and the hybrid adapter from Rampage. I also have the NEM-1 from FusionsMods for the Nemesis.
Piece of cake my friend. Easy start is premade coils. Next easiest is premade wires and make your own coils. Once you try at least that, you'll look at the premade coils and snark at them.
And no. Can't have too many. Ask jojo.
Thought of sharing it here as well...
2013 will go as an epic...
Much changed in the vape industry! Vaping for the first time feels like mainstream. Vendors, manufacturers and consumers join hands - offering support to each other. None headstrong - and none colliding! Plethora of choices - and innovation being the buzz word! All for One - and One for All!
Way to go... and viva 2014!
Heya all. I've got a question.
I've been having a little trouble with my Paps v2.5 SS. I have adjusted the center pin connection to almost it's lowest max to keep a small gap between my KFL+ and the Paps and pushed the battery connection up as far as I can. Every time I take the KFL off or take the bottom cap off to change the batt one or the other always loosens up. It's not a huge deal but it gets a little annoying.
I think the KFL is turning the positive post screw when ever I take it off or something. I can tighten up the button cap on the bottom to where it's snug and then screw the KFL down snug with just tiny gap but when I take the KFL off or take the bottom cap off, one or the other becomes loose at the other end.
Someone mentioned trying to use the other post that came with it but it's my understanding that post is for the 18490/18500 configuration and I'm using 18350 AW IMR's.
I hope all that makes sense. Does anyone have any tricks to keep this from happening?
I've been having a little trouble with my Paps v2.5 SS. I have adjusted the center pin connection to almost it's lowest max to keep a small gap between my KFL+ and the Paps and pushed the battery connection up as far as I can. Every time I take the KFL off or take the bottom cap off to change the batt one or the other always loosens up. It's not a huge deal but it gets a little annoying.
I think the KFL is turning the positive post screw when ever I take it off or something. I can tighten up the button cap on the bottom to where it's snug and then screw the KFL down snug with just tiny gap but when I take the KFL off or take the bottom cap off, one or the other becomes loose at the other end.
Someone mentioned trying to use the other post that came with it but it's my understanding that post is for the 18490/18500 configuration and I'm using 18350 AW IMR's.
I hope all that makes sense. Does anyone have any tricks to keep this from happening?
^The Yankees' have 10 or 12 of them (Sophias) between the two I believe
...one for each poodle...
Sent from my iPad
I have a Kayfun v3.1 and this isn't happening. If the KFL+'s positive pin isn't adjustable and the 510 connection is longer than 4 mm which is considered the standard for all 510 connections, then the telescopic post has to be unscrewed almost to the last thread and become loose.
I don't have a KFL+ to confirm it.
Use the included thin pin or a GP telescopic Centre Post v2.6 and you'll be fine.
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Perseas I am struggling to find an answer. I have my paps with a KFL and have never had that kind of issue. I was trying to help on the Kayfun thread but directed him here to ask the man himself. I couldn't figure it out.
Cheers for response guys,
I have been stalking posts re sophia/diver probs and trying loads of different ways with the wick set-up. I have tried diluting with 10% Distilled water which helped but wasn't great.
I have tried playing around with tank level and 1/2-1/4 full seems best performance.
Its usually dry-ish hits sometimes real bad ones though!
I havent played too much with the juice control other than to open it right up, I will try reducing it see how that goes.
It does seem to help reducing the air flow.
I have been running Gorilla Juice, Goose Juice, Gizzard Juice, GVC, Bobas, and a couple of my own mixes. Bobas was probably worst, Gorilla is the only one that worked perfectly for a tank(undiluted in killer), Goose juice will barely work in sophia even diluted and havent tried that one in the killer yet. I know all of these are coil killers thats why I got a stack of coils, but the coils aren't eating any juice to get clogged up!
It have never had the Sophia work well, but the Killer has been fantastic on very odd occasions. Thats what makes this so frustrating.
A lot of good info from others on your issues with carto RBAs, here's my thoughts:
I use Diver v1 and v2, Killer and Sofia. I vape high VG to 100% VG juices only, to the point where I will not even try a vendor whose juices do not come in at least high VG versions. So I stick to AVE, Ahlusion, VCV mostly, with Mad Murdock being the only juices that probably break that pattern.
I generally have no issues with juice feeding in any of these attys. I do not ever dilute juices. Whenever I have wicking problems, it is because I either have too much wick in the atty, which is too tight and stuffed up and therefore cannot wick, or because my coil is wrapped around the wick too tight - one of the most common mistakes in this procedure. Could it be you are building your coil too tight around the wick?
The known issues are:
Diver v1: leaking. Can be addressed using an o-ring solution. See the Diver thread for details. But why get a v1 when there is the...
Diver v2: new, so far everyone seems to be saying it works perfectly. That is my experience as well.
Killer: as qorax mentioned, PITA due to the "hump", but we forgive it, because it has the best name, and looks phenomenal in a tank.
Sofia: new, so far everyone seems to be saying it works perfectly. That is my experience as well. In fact, I have to keep the liquid control almost completely closed for it to not gurgle and flood, just a crack open seems to get perfect wicking for me.
Having said all this: which tank or tanks? Just the SnP? Having more than one tank helps, especially if it is a faulty or damaged o-ring. I keep a large supply of extra o-rings (not yankeebobo large, but large nonetheless) just for this, it's the first thing I do if I identify a tank as the source of a problem, by swapping out attys and seeing if the problem persists in the same tank.
Wick material: what do you use? Where did you procure it? I've heard tell of non-genuine Ekowool out there, for example. I would read up on cotton thread or cotton balls, and try them out, not only because they rock, but because you know what you are getting, it cannot be "fake". This would rule out a bad batch of wick being the source of your problems.
I would not give up on these attys so easily, especially the Sofia and the v2 Diver. Those both seem to be the new standards for the carto RBA.
Furthermore, and I cannot stress this enough, the scientific method would suggest a single point of error in your experience. IMO, it isn't the attys. It is either your tank, or something you are doing incorrectly. I say that last bit with all due respect - I screw up builds each and every day, after having rebuilt Ithakas, Spheroids, Divers, Killers, Sofias, Drippers, Kayfuns, iGos, Protanks and Remoizers hundreds of times in the last 6 months.
Finally, your Killer clone. NO, no, no, no and no. I know for a fact that the makers of the Killer and the Diver both picked up clones of their respective products to try them out, and laughed at how poorly made they were. Besides the cheap metals and manufacturing, they weren't replicas, the designs were different. And those differences led to serious reduction in vape quality and functionality. They just don't work like the originals. Even if you don't avoid clones because they are theft, avoid them because they just don't work. When they tell you they buy the clone to test before buying the real thing - hogwash. Not the same thing.
Make it stop! My wallet begs of thee!
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