And I have my KFL+ on my PAPS. I did have to put on the post with the thinner top for everything to be flush. I posted this in the kayfun thread too.
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And I have my KFL+ on my PAPS. I did have to put on the post with the thinner top for everything to be flush. I posted this in the kayfun thread too.
AVE, Ahlusion, VCV all use a little bit of distilled water and/or ethyl alcohol (flavor carrier) that dilutes it. Problem with this is that towards 1/4th or closer to the end of the tank... the thinner liquids in the eliquid tend to wick at a faster rate (maybe separates with the heat of the atomizer?) than VG making the remaining wick slower... or atleast that is what I have encountered. Especially with the 510 RBA's as the tubes walls are very thin and heat up faster which your liquid is in contact with... but once its been warmed up a little it makes VG act more fluidly (adjustments for the best performance might have to be made for your eliquids temperature changing leading to improper wicking also).
not saying this is the problem but it might factor in somewhere.
Also, I have found that with the ready wires I currently use, when inserting them into the base, sometimes it tends to pull the first and last wraps making it pinch and maybe bring the wick down a little which the slots also pinch or compress your wick slowing down wicking... but this is just one of the many guesses I've made as I also had troubles with 510 RBA's and PG-free juice.
If the KFL and KFL+ have non adjustable centre pins and when on many occasions, depending on the batch, their 510 connection is over 4 mm (confirmed), the loose issue cannot be fixed in 18350 mode with a telescopic centre post. If the thin pin has to be used, a longer 510 connection might create the same issue. Using the GP telescopic centre post v2.6 is the remedy in the extreme cases.
whereas
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It was good to guide him here. He can use the thin pin of the GP telescopic centre post v2.5 or a GP telescopic centre post v2.6 which is the smaller we have ever made
It was good to guide him here. He can use the thin pin of the GP telescopic centre post v2.5 or a GP telescopic centre post v2.6 which is the smaller we have ever made
Good to know. Thanks.
been there
. get the GP PnB or sacrifice an old carto, mount it in a drill/drill press and polish.Tons of info from Idaho and Qorax in this and other threads on how, what media to use, etc. You'll have that Lux looking new in a jiff!
Thanks Perseas. I'll dig out the other post that came with it and see if that'll fix the issue. I was going to post in here a few weeks ago but as I said in my previous post, it's not that big of an issue and I've just been dealing with it. A simple twist at the other end is all it takes but I know it's not suppose to be like that.
Thanks for the tip. I'll try the extra post tonight and see if it helps.
Thanks for the tip. I'll try the extra post tonight and see if it helps.
Thanks Perseas. I'll dig out the other post that came with it and see if that'll fix the issue. I was going to post in here a few weeks ago but as I said in my previous post, it's not that big of an issue and I've just been dealing with it. A simple twist at the other end is all it takes but I know it's not suppose to be like that.
Thanks for the tip. I'll try the extra post tonight and see if it helps.
Knowing Perseas and how he handles people's problems in here so well, he would WANT you to come forward so he can make it right. Hang out here enough and you will realize that he wants all of us to get the most out of his products. Buying the mods is easy, but the AFTER SALE service here is head and shoulders above them all.
I suppose you're referring to the top & bottom covers, not the actual caps.
It depends. The threading fits, but the compatibility factor for a proper sealing isn't 100%, we cannot know where the threading starts each time. We can make a 22/23 SnP only during assembling, finding matching covers, if somebody asks for that by leaving a note in his order.
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been there
Tons of info from Idaho and Qorax in this and other threads on how, what media to use, etc. You'll have that Lux looking new in a jiff!
"Damn it, Bones, you're a doctor. You know that pain and guilt can't be taken away with a wave of a magic wand. They're the things we carry with us, the things that make us who we are. If we lose them, we lose ourselves. I don't want my pain taken away! I need my pain!"
OK, just got home and checked the other battery post and it's the thicker one and would make it even worse so I didn't bother to put it in there.
I "think" what is happening is the positive center pin assembly is moving and wobbling around because I have to back it out (down) so far in order to get the KFL to set nearly flush. When I say nearly flush I'm talking about the thickness of a piece of paper. I don't like it to set to close because I don't want to scratch my pretty top cap on the Paps.
I gotta protect my baby.
When the center post assembly is loose like that it's actually moving up and down and from side to side a little inside the threaded plastic insert. So then every time I take the KFL off and on the center pin is actually turning slightly (I think). And when I take the bottom cap off to put batteries in, the KFL then becomes loose.
What I've been doing is trying not to move the KFL while I'm switching out the batteries. If it turns just the slightest bit then the bottom cap doesn't go back on all the way even though I can't see it with my naked eye. And then the next time I take the KFL off, the bottom cap becomes slightly loose.
Right now I have the inner battery post screwed almost all the way into the outer positive post (almost bottomed out) such that when the Paps is all assembled I can barley hear (if at all) the battery rattle while shaking it hard.
If this information helps, I measured both the KFL's 510 (male) from the shoulder (bottom) to the positive pin and the depth of the Paps (female) while having it adjusted for the KFL to set nearly flush.
KFL+ = 4.623 mm
Paps = 4.445 mm
Note the difference is about the thickness of a heavy piece of paper.
Do you think I could just wrap the outer threads of the center post assembly with some Teflon tape to snug it up a little inside the plastic part? I think that might work.
I "think" what is happening is the positive center pin assembly is moving and wobbling around because I have to back it out (down) so far in order to get the KFL to set nearly flush. When I say nearly flush I'm talking about the thickness of a piece of paper. I don't like it to set to close because I don't want to scratch my pretty top cap on the Paps.
I gotta protect my baby. When the center post assembly is loose like that it's actually moving up and down and from side to side a little inside the threaded plastic insert. So then every time I take the KFL off and on the center pin is actually turning slightly (I think). And when I take the bottom cap off to put batteries in, the KFL then becomes loose.
What I've been doing is trying not to move the KFL while I'm switching out the batteries. If it turns just the slightest bit then the bottom cap doesn't go back on all the way even though I can't see it with my naked eye. And then the next time I take the KFL off, the bottom cap becomes slightly loose.
Right now I have the inner battery post screwed almost all the way into the outer positive post (almost bottomed out) such that when the Paps is all assembled I can barley hear (if at all) the battery rattle while shaking it hard.
If this information helps, I measured both the KFL's 510 (male) from the shoulder (bottom) to the positive pin and the depth of the Paps (female) while having it adjusted for the KFL to set nearly flush.
KFL+ = 4.623 mm
Paps = 4.445 mm
Note the difference is about the thickness of a heavy piece of paper.
Do you think I could just wrap the outer threads of the center post assembly with some Teflon tape to snug it up a little inside the plastic part? I think that might work.
I see what you are saying. Sometimes my center post turns a bit when I change attys or batteries, and I have to readjust a bit for battery rattle.
I think your solution for Teflon tape should work. Especially if you are using the same atty on the same PAPS. I would try just a couple of wraps and trim it close to the post thread end (opposite the knurled ends)
Let us know how it works.
edit to add that it's possible to tighten the end of the Kayfun a bit, you'll have to carefully grip the posts to prevent them from turning.
I think your solution for Teflon tape should work. Especially if you are using the same atty on the same PAPS. I would try just a couple of wraps and trim it close to the post thread end (opposite the knurled ends)
Let us know how it works.
edit to add that it's possible to tighten the end of the Kayfun a bit, you'll have to carefully grip the posts to prevent them from turning.
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If your goal is to protect your top cap can you try protecting it with some tape or a piece of vinyl sticker cut to shape? Doesn't have to be perfect since it will be hidden under the KFL. Just slightly smaller than the diameter.
Once you the tape is applied, you can then snug everything up without worrying about harming the top cap. This will also give the KFL more support without the 510 bearing the load on its own.
Once you the tape is applied, you can then snug everything up without worrying about harming the top cap. This will also give the KFL more support without the 510 bearing the load on its own.
or just use it
I used to be much more protective of my devices. I have always been that way with everything that I "collect" Knives, devices, shoes/clothes whatever. My brother gave me a really cool knife several years ago from the UK. It is beautiful. I have just basically stared at it for several years, never wanting to use it because it was too nice. I realized a few weeks ago that if I walked out of my house and for some reason dropped dead (not hoping for this obviously
) that I would have never used this cool knife. It was at that moment that I realized that I did not know what I was saving all this stuff for? I made a conscious decision at that point to enjoy and use what I have. Life is TOO short. I get it. I hate when I see a scratch on my car, or a rip in a favorite sweatshirt. But at the same time sort of along the lines of what Idaho was saying last night, we should be using and enjoying what we have. Buying things just to collect dust is really a waste.
That being said, I have not yet been able to bring myself to sell some of my precious collectables. I am working towards that though. Baby steps
I've been telling myself that when my PAPS and Heron get here it will be a special mod that stays at home and gets used in the evening on the comfort of the couch far away from any hard surfaces. While that may be true for a bit it will probably make it to the pub within a week lol.
I am sorry for not keeping up on the issue so some of this may be repetitive. Hello!OK, just got home and checked the other battery post and it's the thicker one and would make it even worse so I didn't bother to put it in there.
I "think" what is happening is the positive center pin assembly is moving and wobbling around because I have to back it out (down) so far in order to get the KFL to set nearly flush. When I say nearly flush I'm talking about the thickness of a piece of paper. I don't like it to set to close because I don't want to scratch my pretty top cap on the Paps.
When the center post assembly is loose like that it's actually moving up and down and from side to side a little inside the threaded plastic insert. So then every time I take the KFL off and on the center pin is actually turning slightly (I think). And when I take the bottom cap off to put batteries in, the KFL then becomes loose.
What I've been doing is trying not to move the KFL while I'm switching out the batteries. If it turns just the slightest bit then the bottom cap doesn't go back on all the way even though I can't see it with my naked eye. And then the next time I take the KFL off, the bottom cap becomes slightly loose.
Right now I have the inner battery post screwed almost all the way into the outer positive post (almost bottomed out) such that when the Paps is all assembled I can barley hear (if at all) the battery rattle while shaking it hard.
If this information helps, I measured both the KFL's 510 (male) from the shoulder (bottom) to the positive pin and the depth of the Paps (female) while having it adjusted for the KFL to set nearly flush.
KFL+ = 4.623 mm
Paps = 4.445 mm
Note the difference is about the thickness of a heavy piece of paper.
Do you think I could just wrap the outer threads of the center post assembly with some Teflon tape to snug it up a little inside the plastic part? I think that might work.
On any atty change or placement always remove the top cap and install. Adjust the 510 post as needed. I also would reconsider use of the thicker battery post, Perseas is correct, use it . As the thicker the head the less the post has to be unscrewed outwardly to connect and will counter a bit of the wobble. Once they are settled and the top cap is in place on the tube, future battery changes should be made from the bottom switch as this will alleviate a bit of the tele posts adjusting on their own.
Also, the top cap...they are certainly gorgeous but, imo meant for use. The small circle that may develop is is character use to me. They are also a snap to polish back up to a mirror finish. This I can guarantee.
Enjoy!
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