GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3
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We had a case in France with the new AW IMR 18650 batteries which have protruded bottom and we designed a new negative post screw for the GP PAPS v4 to be used with these batteries. This will be included without any charge from now on as spare with every Paps v4. Current owners of the v4 who want to use such batteries, can leave a note in a future order to put one inside at no charge. A silver plated version will be at our store as well. The screw's head is shorter by 0,2 mm.
Of course, we didn't forget your requests for a full set of pins for the GPin; The longest brass one will be silver plated as the rest, this is a just prototype.
Of course, we didn't forget your requests for a full set of pins for the GPin; The longest brass one will be silver plated as the rest, this is a just prototype.
Thank you for the feedback guys! Teflon drip tips in colours can be discussed after September. August in Europe means holidays for all, we work with one-third of our capacity right now and the capital control in Athens has blocked most imports.
I'm actually surprised that you guys are not already on holiday given it's August.
I feel for you and your team given Greece's current economic crisis.
Thank you Marc! We use 3 CNC facilities, the main one in Athens and the other 2 in Sofia. Now, only one in Sofia is working due to holidays.
Are v3 spheroid tank section compatible with v4 spheroid by chance?
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Nope, the v4 is redesigned from scratch. The exterior looks like the v3 but all the measurements have changed.
UR2GUDWe had a case in France with the new AW IMR 18650 batteries which have protruded bottom and we designed a new negative post screw for the GP PAPS v4 to be used with these batteries. This will be included without any charge from now on as spare with every Paps v4. Current owners of the v4 who want to use such batteries, can leave a note in a future order to put one inside at no charge. A silver plated version will be at our store as well. The screw's head is shorter by 0,2 mm.
Of course, we didn't forget your requests for a full set of pins for the GPin; The longest brass one will be silver plated as the rest, this is a just prototype.
Wide bore ss shorty with GP logo.
Sorry. OCD. But I will say +1 for black as well....after September of course.
I will stay out on the side line tomorrow.. Have fun everyone!
Sorry. OCD. But I will say +1 for black as well....after September of course.
I will stay out on the side line tomorrow.
. Have fun everyone!
I love my v4 switch but I'm having an issue... I've recently bought a Paps v4 in 18650 (mostly because I don't have any tubes in that size after having my v3 "appropriated"). Since then I've also bought a v4 tube so I could use it in my favorite mode (500 with aw 18490 batteries).
It seems that I have to use the higher of the two delrin insulators for the switch (they seem to be auto-firing with the small insulators - I rotate two Herons and are basically the only thing I use with the occasional rotation of a Loki Labs Odin dripper) in both modes. But with the higher insulator I also can not stand the mod up, unlocked, without it firing.
I am so used to be able to stand my mod up on a counter while unlocked with no adverse results that I've fried my build many times over the course of the last couple of weeks.
How can I get this to stop? Do I have to change skill of my batteries? Do I have to keep fiddling with setups based on tube length (I didn't have to do this with any of my v3s)? Do I have to learn to lock the switch ring at all times?
Looking for a consistent way to eliminate these issues as I'm getting a little frustrated when grabbing my mod and it being hot.
It seems that I have to use the higher of the two delrin insulators for the switch (they seem to be auto-firing with the small insulators - I rotate two Herons and are basically the only thing I use with the occasional rotation of a Loki Labs Odin dripper) in both modes. But with the higher insulator I also can not stand the mod up, unlocked, without it firing.
I am so used to be able to stand my mod up on a counter while unlocked with no adverse results that I've fried my build many times over the course of the last couple of weeks.
How can I get this to stop? Do I have to change skill of my batteries? Do I have to keep fiddling with setups based on tube length (I didn't have to do this with any of my v3s)? Do I have to learn to lock the switch ring at all times?
Looking for a consistent way to eliminate these issues as I'm getting a little frustrated when grabbing my mod and it being hot.
We had a case in France with the new AW IMR 18650 batteries which have protruded bottom and we designed a new negative post screw for the GP PAPS v4 to be used with these batteries. This will be included without any charge from now on as spare with every Paps v4. Current owners of the v4 who want to use such batteries, can leave a note in a future order to put one inside at no charge. A silver plated version will be at our store as well. The screw's head is shorter by 0,2 mm.
Of course, we didn't forget your requests for a full set of pins for the GPin; The longest brass one will be silver plated as the rest, this is a just prototype.
Wow, so many ways to customize, I hope you end up having full sets of the "pins" available in the future and the neg screws too....
Wide bore ss shorty with GP logo.
Sorry. OCD. But I will say +1 for black as well....after September of course.
I will stay out on the side line tomorrow.
A wide bore SS short drip tip will become real hot at once, because the Spheroid is a 16 mm atty and there is a limit of how fast heat can be dissipated. Teflon seems to be a better choice in this case, especially for the subohmers.
We shall definitely solve this issue, since we haven't any report of auto-firing when the mod is well assembled with the correct insulators being in place.
If I understood well, you have 2 configurations:
1. switch v4+18650 tube v4+Heron+? battery
2. switch v4+18500 tube v4+Heron+18490 AW IMR battery
What brand of battery do you put in config 1 ?
Guys, pls remember to "absolutely tighten" (near cranked up) the switch housing of the V4 before assembling the button, delrin ring etc. It helps against chance auto-firing while kept upright / unlocked.
I've been eagerly waiting for the Spheroid v4 for a while and I'm excited to participate in Vapourday tomorrow. I'll be in a meeting when the store opens, but I'll have my laptop (the only thing that will delay me is if I'm presenting).
I'm going to purchase GP Service so I can get one brushed and one polished Spheroid v4 (it makes it easier for me to tell them apart). I'm most looking forward to side AFC so I can use my new Spheroids on all of my mods, specifically those with flat top caps. I'm also looking forward to running them fluffless. It's not that I mind fluff, but I think that without it they will be easier to fill and easier to determine when they're running low. I really like that they can run both with and without fluff. I can imagine using them with fluff when traveling by air and without when on the ground. It's really nice to have options. I have a large stash of fluff that I will continue to use with my older Spheroids (I actually hardly ever replace my fluff, just a good washing and drying). Nonetheless, it's nice to not have to depend on a supply for the long haul.
I'm really looking forward to the new drip tip - what a surprise addition! I suspect that I'll buy six in black when they're offered after September (one for each Spheroid) along with two silver plated very long GPin pins.
I'm going to purchase GP Service so I can get one brushed and one polished Spheroid v4 (it makes it easier for me to tell them apart). I'm most looking forward to side AFC so I can use my new Spheroids on all of my mods, specifically those with flat top caps. I'm also looking forward to running them fluffless. It's not that I mind fluff, but I think that without it they will be easier to fill and easier to determine when they're running low. I really like that they can run both with and without fluff. I can imagine using them with fluff when traveling by air and without when on the ground. It's really nice to have options. I have a large stash of fluff that I will continue to use with my older Spheroids (I actually hardly ever replace my fluff, just a good washing and drying). Nonetheless, it's nice to not have to depend on a supply for the long haul.
I'm really looking forward to the new drip tip - what a surprise addition! I suspect that I'll buy six in black when they're offered after September (one for each Spheroid) along with two silver plated very long GPin pins.
As Qorax said, the switch housing with the locking ring has to be tightened during assembling, I have posted a reference video guide showing it.
Config 1 has new AW18650s. Config 2 has new AW18490s. I have Heron v1s in all of them with the long Heron pin. I use the same v4 switch in both configurations - the taller insulator is used.
Edit:
I may need to watch this. I removed my Heron, took out the battery and noticed that the switch unscrewed without me unscrewing the negative post.
I have been installing as instructed in the video.
I have disassembled/reassembled again without the firing in the unlocked position (testing it on my desk at work right now) and things seem to be working again.
I am not sure what may have caused the switch housing to have worked itself loose but I will monitor and report back with my observations over the next couple of days.
Thanks, P, for the quick and helpful response as always[emoji3]
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