GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

[perseas]

Out of curiosity, how do you all pop the bell off your Heron? I have a difficult time on my v2 so I don't change flavors often.

I usually stick a pencil/pen into the chimney of the bell and push while pulling down on the tank cylinder while holding onto it with rubber bands.

It takes a lot more force than I would have expected. If you're taking votes, I vote for a threaded bell that I can unscrew with a hex key or something like the old Spheroids.

(edit: I also put a bit of eliquid on the o-rings before reinstalling the bell but it doesn't seem to have much effect)

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I use the GP Fork Or a chopstick!

 

[cliffy15]

Thanks, Master P!

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[yankeebobo]

That fork...it fixes everything. I tend to use it myself. The imagination will show that is more than just a delrin remover.

 

[BreSha6869]

Is there a cure for a sticky switch on a GP X?

Doesn't happen often but the odd time it will stick in the locked position. If I unscrew it and put it back together a couple of times, it will fix the issue, but just curious if there is a simple fix (don't fully tighten, spring placement, etc.) or if I am doing something wrong.

Thx!

 

[yankeebobo]

When it happens to me, it's usually an indication to tear it apart and clean it. Careful reassembly and the lock ring needs to be backed off some.

 

[perseas]

Is there a cure for a sticky switch on a GP X?

Doesn't happen often but the odd time it will stick in the locked position. If I unscrew it and put it back together a couple of times, it will fix the issue, but just curious if there is a simple fix (don't fully tighten, spring placement, etc.) or if I am doing something wrong.

Thx!

Easy fix: dismantle the switch, clean the internals with a napkin and when you screw the square locking nut inside the switch housing, leave it 1,0-1,5 mm protruding from the housing. Then put on the button with the spring and secure the whole switch with the negative screw.

Explanation: we think that we must screw the locking nut all the way down, but if we do that, it will have no room to turn during the locking function. And when some dirt is accumulated there, it will stop turning.

Avoid any kind of lubricant inside the switch, because it is machined very precisely (0,02 mm tolerance) and it has also been electropolished and manually polished afterwards to reduce friction.

Pay close attention at 3:25, the locking nut remains 1-2 turns above the surface of the housing, before the button is attached.

 

[BreSha6869]

Easy fix: dismantle the switch, clean the internals with a napkin and when you screw the square locking nut inside the switch housing, leave it 1,0-1,5 mm protruding from the housing. Then put on the button with the spring and secure the whole switch with the negative screw.

Explanation: we think that we must screw the locking nut all the way down, but if we do that, it will have no room to turn during the locking function. And when some dirt is accumulated there, it will stop turning.

Avoid any kind of lubricant inside the switch, because it is machined very precisely (0,02 mm tolerance) and it has also been polished to reduce friction.

Pay close attention at 3:25, the locking nut remains 1-2 turns above the surface of the housing, before the button is attached.

Perfect! Thanks perseas.

The X Lux has been performing perfectly in the month or so since I ordered it from you besides my obvious issue caused by tightening the locking nut too tight. Can't wait to place an order for a couple of GP Paps in the near future.

 

[perseas]

Perfect! Thanks perseas.

The X Lux has been performing perfectly in the month or so since I ordered it from you besides my obvious issue caused by tightening the locking nut too tight. Can't wait to place an order for a couple of GP Paps in the near future.

In a few weeks we shall have released a CNC from the current projects to produce the GP PAPS v4 18650 again. Thank you very much for the support!

 

[h00ligan]

You're right! I am referring specifically to LiMn IMR batteries not the ICR ones and the other hybrid types. And many times what a battery claims to be depends on where you bought it. And what charger you use. I forgot to mention it, thank you for helping me to be more precise. We describe the need of a battery with 30A discharge rate in our Terms and Conditions and if you go at 0,15Ω in a mechanical mod which hasn't TC, I really don't know, what happens to the liquid's chemistry at such temperature, especially for the buttery/creamy ones.
Useful links:
Battery chemistry FINALLY explained
ECF Sub-Ohm Advisory

Well a continuous discharge 20 amp battery typically has a pulse of 30+. Pulse is defined as 30 second intervals. So fir most vaping application pulse would appear to be fine for an adherence.

I totally agree its better safe than sorry but also read a lot of posts (not pointing at yours) where they're over the top cautious. The idea that batteries spontaneously combust seems to he widespread. The reality is assuming no short a mod would get far too hit to handle long before it exploded.

I just think theres some FUD and everyone points ohm's law but then they say "i wouldn't push past half the max continuous or 2/3 the max continuous. The reality is you can ride the max continuous rating. Thats the point if max continuous vs max pulse. You can head north if max continuous toward max pulse. Without issue. Fir 5-10 second draws.

The problem as you stated is thet you have to be careful in your research. Some brands or sellers list max pulse as max continuous. Then youd be in trouble. Major brands (not rewraps) typically provide accurate information . Probably thats why people suggest sticking to half the declared value. Becusse pulse is on average 50% more thab continuous in ratings.

I was speaking of imr not the hybrids though as there are now some 30a continuous.

For a battery known rated accurately at 20a continuous id personally have no issue running it up to the 85%+ continuous rating when it was new m. If it starts feeling warm id re-evaluate. All these exploding purse and pocket things are due to people not locking fire buttons and or feeling the device generate hear for a few minutes. The recent purse explosion could have been avoided if the woman used he product properly. And now the fact they're researching what went wring with the battery is silly. What went wrong with the battery is r was bought by a .....

.25 build assuming 4.2 full charge i consider more than safe on something like a vtc5 or other top tier battery. As the total amp draw js 16.8. If it was .15 build it would need a 30 amp continuous battery as it pushes to 28a draw this is where sub ohm vapers run into issues. They dint realize that such a small change in resistance makes such a huge change in draw.


Fwiw Ive done an.3 build ij the heron and the battery Never really warmed up. My go to builds is .65-75 though. Given the spring collapse safety feature in the hnp i feel good about the hnp and any build id find usable

Anyway. Its certainly better ti be safe than sorry but i know some people consider pulse to be tapping the fire button. Rather than the standard 30 second bursts. I believe that and convoluted ir dishonest settings lead to very conservative suggestions which fan he far exceeded given proper research and ensured there are not clones passing as real.

Thanks for engaging the conversation. I worried greatly when I was new to vaping about this.


A friend and I are in the profess of writing an ios app thats going to cover w lot of stuff. I certainly hope it helps not just jew Vaper's but seasoned as well.

 

[h00ligan]

On a separate note. I want to buy another heron. Maybe hnp. I gather the v2/v4 are eol but have they been replaced with the v3/5 yet? I haven't been around much but I did not see them even mentioned on the site when i last checked. Heron v3 and epaps!!.

 

[perseas]

On a separate note. I want to buy another heron. Maybe hnp. I gather the v2/v4 are eol but have they been replaced with the v3/5 yet? I haven't been around much but I did not see them even mentioned on the site when i last checked. Heron v3 and epaps!!.

The GP Heron v3 is scheduled to be released some time after the GP Dripper release, but a GP PAPS v5 won't. Because we still don't know how to improve the GP PAPS v4! It is the best mechanical mod we have ever made, except the GP PAPS X. Both stand at the top of the GP PAPS series development since 2011. We have sold out all v4 and we shall make a limited production run again, along with the GP Piccolo v4, which is also out of stock for the last few months. Another product in demand is the GP Spheroid v3, because many of the MTL vapers prefer it over the GP Spheroid v4. We are making fifty v3 and twenty of them are already pre-ordered and the rest will be available in Q4 2016. Moreover, a few GP Piccoloid v1 (GP Spheroid v3 + GP Piccolo v4) will be available in Q4 2016 as well.Thank you very much for the positive vibes, albeit I won't comment for any other project at the moment.

 

[yankeebobo]

The GP Heron v3 is scheduled to be released some time after the GP Dripper release, but a GP PAPS v5 won't. Because we still don't know how to improve the GP PAPS v4! It is the best mechanical mod we have ever made, except the GP PAPS X. Both stand at the top of the GP PAPS series development since 2011. We have sold out all v4 and we shall make a limited production run again, along with the GP Piccolo v4, which is also out of stock for the last few months. Another product in demand is the GP Spheroid v3, because many of the MTL vapers prefer it over the GP Spheroid v4. We are making fifty v3 and twenty of them are already pre-ordered and the rest will be available in Q4 2016. Thank you very much for the positive vibes, albeit I won't comment for any other project at the moment.

Throw one 510 TOP cap, full assembly, for piccolo aside for me. haha

This sounds like it's going to be a "Greatest Hits" run. I personally prefer the spheroid v3 over the v4. Both are fantastic. But I am a MTLer.

Anyone who wants a shot at these gems, get your wallets ready. This COULD be the end of these for good.

 

[perseas]

Throw one 510 TOP cap, full assembly, for piccolo aside for me. haha

This sounds like it's going to be a "Greatest Hits" run. I personally prefer the spheroid v3 over the v4. Both are fantastic. But I am a MTLer.

Anyone who wants a shot at these gems, get your wallets ready. This COULD be the end of these for good.

Thank you!

It's noted, there are many requests for the top cap of the Piccolo v4 from Piccoloid v2 owners

 

[yankeebobo]

Thank you!

It's noted, there are many requests for the top cap of the Piccolo v4 from Piccoloid v2 owners

Ohhhhh. Damn. I never thought of that. I admit that the cap would be much easier than the adjacent poles. Make that 2 my friend.

 

[perseas]

Ohhhhh. Damn. I never thought of that. I admit that the cap would be much easier than the adjacent poles. Make that 2 my friend.

Sure!

 

[Suchtie]

Is somewhere a picture of the EU certified 316 SS top cap, CNC engraved? Can't find one - hope I'm not blind

 

[perseas]

Is somewhere a picture of the EU certified 316 SS top cap, CNC engraved? Can't find one - hope I'm not blind

They will be ready on Wednesday-Thursday, photos will follow. The SS top cap is the reason we postponed a week the release of the GP Dripper.

 

[Suchtie]

Thank you for Info

 

[plumeguy]

They will be ready on Wednesday-Thursday, photos will follow. The SS top cap is the reason we postponed a week the release of the GP Dripper.

Perseas, what is the internal diameter of the diptip section of the black Ultem caps?

 

[perseas]

Perseas, what is the internal diameter of the diptip section of the black Ultem caps?

It's the needed opening to accept any standard drip tip.