DISCLAIMER: I in no way take credit for the original "tank Tool" nor do I have any affiliation with Phiniac, or its representatives, or subsidaries. I simply noticed that a few people had said they'd lost their "tank Tools" and that got me to thinking about how often I lose things. SO, I went around the house looking for things to make some out of in case the one I just ordered today got lost (which WILL happen, I'm certain.)
Well, I decided to stick with my handy DIY instructional and provide another "tank mod" of sorts.
This one is called a 'Tank Tool.' For those of you that don't know what that is, it's basically a drip tip that's closed on the top, and angled with no opening to allow you to easily fill your tank by pushing it into the cartomizer, creating a seal to prevent fluid from getting to the cartomizer while the cartomizer is in the tank you're filling.
Here's the Original "Tank Tool" with accompanying video to show you what it is / does:
Tank Tool/Filler Tip - Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks
Why would you need this? Simple - This creates a completely "tool less" syringe less method for filling tanks that's similar in method to the "Texas Tuff Tank" And also similar to the DIY Texas Tuff Tank Mod that I posted before. However, instead of filling from the side of the tank, this allows you to do so directly from the top as if you were just dripping it into the cartomizer, and waiting for it to leak into the tank (But you're not...that would be stupid.)
Okay, so - Let's get started, shall we?
http://s271.beta.photobucket.com/user/dracconusg/library/Tank Tool
---------Materials---------
1x Sanding, or grinding method.
Preferably a Rotary tool of some sort with a sandpaper grinding bit on it - However, fine grit (220 or so) sandpaper, or a good sanding/cutting disk on a rotary, or sander will work fine too (but will require a lot more caution) (Also note, this is optional depending on the type of drip tip style you use - Some may not need the step this requires)
1x Inner O-Ring to go around the Drip Tip.
1x Acrylic, Plastic, or Polycarbonate Drip Tip ( Color doesn't matter, but i prefer clear as it's easier to notice when it's smoothed out.)
1x Flat Heating plate of some sort, or a standard butane lighter (Think 'Bic')
1x Flat Surface for molding the drip tip
1x Safety Glasses (Trust me...Acrylic freaking HURTS when it hits your eye at 35000 rpm)
1x Face Mask (Heating plastics such as acrylic, polycarbonate, or plastic causes caustic fumes and these are NOT very friendly on your lungs.)
1x WELL ventilated room!!!!! ( I can't stress this enough)
1x Sharp THIN blade knife, or Xacto style cutting knife (Razorblades will also work too.
---------Guide---------PREPARATIONAL NOTE!
If you look at your drip tip you'll notice that you've got two ledges leading to the hole the o-ring rests in. Right above that, moving upwards on the drip tip there's another TINY ledge where the tip gets "stuck" to prevent it from sliding into your tank. This is what we want to remove.
Step 1. Remove the O-Ring from your drip tip.
Step 2. Depending on the style of drip tip you're using you may not need to sand it down at all. Place the drip tip onto your cartomizer, and try to push the cartomizer down into the tank using the drip tip. If the drip tip stops use your oh so wonderful eyes to guage the minimum of how much you need to sand down to make it slide in smoothly (it's okay if it's loose, it just has to slide in.) - Yes, I know, that's what she said...Moving along. If your drip tip doesn't need to be sanded proceed to Step 4.
Step 3. Since you drip tip needs to be sanded down some let's go ahead, and do that real fast. Remember, sand lightly, and keep returning it back and forth to the cartomizer to make sure that you're not sanding down too much for nothing.. WHILE DOING THIS PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT YOU DO NOT SAND THE BOTTOM MOST LIPS THAT THE O-RING RESTS ON. IF YOU DO YOU'VE POSSIBLY JUST SCREWED YOURSELF OUT OF A TANK TOOL! - If you did, then skip to step 9.
Step 4. Now that you've gotten the lip sanded down enough to slide the drip tip, and cartomizer into the tank as one piece you need to smooth it out to make sure that fluid doesn't get trapped in the porous surface of the plastic. Go ahead, and grab your face mask, and lighter. Put your face mask on, and lightly graze the sanded surface of the drip tip with the flame of the lighter. Pause frequently, and use your finger, or the back end of your xacto knife to smooth out the sanded parts.
Step 5. Now that you've gotten the sanded parts smoothed out You'll want to begin making the closure for the 'Tank Tool.' This will be done by heating the drip tips mouth piece enough to mold it. You can do so a little at a time, and use small melts/bends or try and do most of it at once, it doesn't really matter. Melt the mouthpiece of the drip tip and mold it to close the drip tip, forming a 3-45 degree angled "bevel" for those of you that don't know a bevel looks like this: |\ That's exactly how you want the mouthpiece of the drip tip to look.
Step 6. Make sure that the sides of the Mouthpiece that you melted aren't 'bulging' and are smooth'ish with the rest of the drip tip so that they'll slide into the tank.
Step 7. Fill the newly modified Tank Tool with a small bit of water then blow into it to make sure that there are no leaks.
Step 8. Use sanitizing hand soap to remove the excess smog that the water didn't remove from within, and the surface of the newly created "Tank Tool." then use some sort of grain alcohol or distilled water to rinse it.
Step 9. If there are no leaks then you're ready to place the O-Ring back on. You may encounter a few issues with the O-Ring fitting properly due to grinding the lip around it. If you do, simply look for any small nibs, or uneven surface areas, and remove them with your xacto knife, or razor.
Step 10. Once you have the O-Ring fitted properly, place it onto your cartomizer, and push them into the tank, and fill.
*NOTE* Burning the plastic WILL leave the "burned" look if you used a lighter, or anything that emits smoke instead of a hot plate, or the likes. Just use some grain alcohol, or sterilizing material and wash it to make sure that there's no residual smog left on it, and you'll be fine.
Congratulations. You've just made your own "Tank Tool." Now you can enjoy carrying your favorite fluids with you in their native bottle form without having to complicate your life by carrying a syringe, and all other sorts of crap that makes you feel like a closet diabetic (no offense to the closet diabetics.)
Well, I decided to stick with my handy DIY instructional and provide another "tank mod" of sorts.
This one is called a 'Tank Tool.' For those of you that don't know what that is, it's basically a drip tip that's closed on the top, and angled with no opening to allow you to easily fill your tank by pushing it into the cartomizer, creating a seal to prevent fluid from getting to the cartomizer while the cartomizer is in the tank you're filling.
Here's the Original "Tank Tool" with accompanying video to show you what it is / does:
Tank Tool/Filler Tip - Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks
Why would you need this? Simple - This creates a completely "tool less" syringe less method for filling tanks that's similar in method to the "Texas Tuff Tank" And also similar to the DIY Texas Tuff Tank Mod that I posted before. However, instead of filling from the side of the tank, this allows you to do so directly from the top as if you were just dripping it into the cartomizer, and waiting for it to leak into the tank (But you're not...that would be stupid.)
Okay, so - Let's get started, shall we?
PICTURES!!!!!
I kept the pictures out of the thread, and just put them into an old photobucket I used to use for my WoW Server I ran back in '08.http://s271.beta.photobucket.com/user/dracconusg/library/Tank Tool
---------Materials---------
1x Sanding, or grinding method.
Preferably a Rotary tool of some sort with a sandpaper grinding bit on it - However, fine grit (220 or so) sandpaper, or a good sanding/cutting disk on a rotary, or sander will work fine too (but will require a lot more caution) (Also note, this is optional depending on the type of drip tip style you use - Some may not need the step this requires)
1x Inner O-Ring to go around the Drip Tip.
1x Acrylic, Plastic, or Polycarbonate Drip Tip ( Color doesn't matter, but i prefer clear as it's easier to notice when it's smoothed out.)
1x Flat Heating plate of some sort, or a standard butane lighter (Think 'Bic')
1x Flat Surface for molding the drip tip
1x Safety Glasses (Trust me...Acrylic freaking HURTS when it hits your eye at 35000 rpm)
1x Face Mask (Heating plastics such as acrylic, polycarbonate, or plastic causes caustic fumes and these are NOT very friendly on your lungs.)
1x WELL ventilated room!!!!! ( I can't stress this enough)
1x Sharp THIN blade knife, or Xacto style cutting knife (Razorblades will also work too.
---------Guide---------
If you look at your drip tip you'll notice that you've got two ledges leading to the hole the o-ring rests in. Right above that, moving upwards on the drip tip there's another TINY ledge where the tip gets "stuck" to prevent it from sliding into your tank. This is what we want to remove.
Step 1. Remove the O-Ring from your drip tip.
Step 2. Depending on the style of drip tip you're using you may not need to sand it down at all. Place the drip tip onto your cartomizer, and try to push the cartomizer down into the tank using the drip tip. If the drip tip stops use your oh so wonderful eyes to guage the minimum of how much you need to sand down to make it slide in smoothly (it's okay if it's loose, it just has to slide in.) - Yes, I know, that's what she said...Moving along. If your drip tip doesn't need to be sanded proceed to Step 4.
Step 3. Since you drip tip needs to be sanded down some let's go ahead, and do that real fast. Remember, sand lightly, and keep returning it back and forth to the cartomizer to make sure that you're not sanding down too much for nothing.. WHILE DOING THIS PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT YOU DO NOT SAND THE BOTTOM MOST LIPS THAT THE O-RING RESTS ON. IF YOU DO YOU'VE POSSIBLY JUST SCREWED YOURSELF OUT OF A TANK TOOL! - If you did, then skip to step 9.
Step 4. Now that you've gotten the lip sanded down enough to slide the drip tip, and cartomizer into the tank as one piece you need to smooth it out to make sure that fluid doesn't get trapped in the porous surface of the plastic. Go ahead, and grab your face mask, and lighter. Put your face mask on, and lightly graze the sanded surface of the drip tip with the flame of the lighter. Pause frequently, and use your finger, or the back end of your xacto knife to smooth out the sanded parts.
Step 5. Now that you've gotten the sanded parts smoothed out You'll want to begin making the closure for the 'Tank Tool.' This will be done by heating the drip tips mouth piece enough to mold it. You can do so a little at a time, and use small melts/bends or try and do most of it at once, it doesn't really matter. Melt the mouthpiece of the drip tip and mold it to close the drip tip, forming a 3-45 degree angled "bevel" for those of you that don't know a bevel looks like this: |\ That's exactly how you want the mouthpiece of the drip tip to look.
Step 6. Make sure that the sides of the Mouthpiece that you melted aren't 'bulging' and are smooth'ish with the rest of the drip tip so that they'll slide into the tank.
Step 7. Fill the newly modified Tank Tool with a small bit of water then blow into it to make sure that there are no leaks.
Step 8. Use sanitizing hand soap to remove the excess smog that the water didn't remove from within, and the surface of the newly created "Tank Tool." then use some sort of grain alcohol or distilled water to rinse it.
Step 9. If there are no leaks then you're ready to place the O-Ring back on. You may encounter a few issues with the O-Ring fitting properly due to grinding the lip around it. If you do, simply look for any small nibs, or uneven surface areas, and remove them with your xacto knife, or razor.
Step 10. Once you have the O-Ring fitted properly, place it onto your cartomizer, and push them into the tank, and fill.
*NOTE* Burning the plastic WILL leave the "burned" look if you used a lighter, or anything that emits smoke instead of a hot plate, or the likes. Just use some grain alcohol, or sterilizing material and wash it to make sure that there's no residual smog left on it, and you'll be fine.
Congratulations. You've just made your own "Tank Tool." Now you can enjoy carrying your favorite fluids with you in their native bottle form without having to complicate your life by carrying a syringe, and all other sorts of crap that makes you feel like a closet diabetic (no offense to the closet diabetics.)
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