Has anyone tried the AGA Tiamat PLUS w/Glass Tank

[calpis]

I've been changing coils out all day trying to get the flavor back from when I first built the Aga. It feels like all the time I spent yesterday and today trying to fix the coils burned out the 500 mesh wick or something. I tried 30awg at 1.5 ohms and 1.2 ohms and there really is no flavor at all. I'm going to cool down a bit and try one last time with how my previous set up was with a 32awg 3/2 wrap at 1.2 ohms. I want to get this done before I get my silver NR wire for my term c.

 

[Sgt. Pepper]

i just got my aga tplus today and tried this configuration, OMG it worked the first time without any hot spot! fyi this is my first time building a genesis! u rock!

Just built my first wick & coil yesterday (2 times). I seemed to be able to get the coil to glow evenly without the wick inserted, but when I put the wick in I had hot spots that I couldn't get rid of completely. I did get some decent vapor without a harsh throat hit, but I could tell it wasn't working optimally. I saw this method earlier, and I think I'm going to give it a try today.

p.s. I didn't crease the first wick I made, so I'm sure I was getting some shorts from the fray of the outside of the wick. I did the 2nd time and it seemed to help. I knew it was going to take some time before I got this down, but I'm willing to put the time in to find vaping nirvana. lol

 

[Koman]

Another thing I'm going to experiment with is Nichrome. Everyone says its difficult to work with, but I have never heard anyone say how the "reaction" time is verses Kanthal. Does it heat up and glow faster? (Same gauge). I find the below information interesting.....

Great charts! Thanks a lot!

 

[eHuman]

i just got my aga tplus today and tried this configuration, OMG it worked the first time without any hot spot! fyi this is my first time building a genesis! u rock!

TYVM. Realize that is is a band aid, but one that works. Later you will learn how not to need it. In the mean time, it makes RBA usage accessible to more people.

 

[Keithhe]

Wow, just read this thread through from the beginning. Like many here, I just received 2 AGA-T + yesterday from DV and having already watched hours of video thought this would be a snap. I was wrong.

I have tried this with both A-1 Kanthal 30 and 32 AWG at about 4 tries each.

I used the mesh with the kit and a small fold for outer edge to avoid frays, and did the "normal" 3 x dry burn with torch, quench, then 3 x juice burn and it looked great. In each of the 8 or so attemps above my wire would start to glow, then pop and burn an open in it. I'm guessing a short?

Everyone on here is complaining about hot spots, but I would kill for one that didn't burn the wire to melt. Well I guess I am technicall getting highly localized hot spots, but you know what I mean. I am using a Zmax turned all the way down to 3 volts. My resistance, pre-burn via a VOM and confirmed by Zmax was between 1.4 and about 1.8 depending on wire and wraps.

I have a 12 x 12 sheet of 400 SS, and need to order some 500 too.

I'm going to keep trying, but value any idea you folks may have.

Added: The glass tanks I received from DV were not as bad as some I've seen posted. Not perfect, but really had a hard time telling them from the plastic.

Also, noticed some were using small washers on center post? I barely seem to have enough room to add the wire between number 2 and 3 nuts and there is nothing showing at top of post?

The center threaded shaft on both of mine (not the pin) are milled different on each end. One is cut down longer than the other side. Any idea why? I tried them both directions and does not seem to matter.

Last, can individual parts be bought for these? Specifically the little plastic seals that the positive pin seals with? If so, where?

Thanks

 

[Keithhe]

I'm beginning to think I may be too stupid for RBA's. I have been building wicks and coils all day, last 6 + hours.

Although none are cooking through the wire anymore, I can not get rid of the top coil as only one that glows. I re-read many posts, to include Ninja and e-human (early pages 12-15) and per Ninja advice, moved and moved and moved the coils with same results. Again trying with 30 and 32 AWG. I tried the drill bit thing yesterday, but not at all today, as it seems I do not need to. Tempted to try the top wire braid that as worked for some, although the ones that get it to work say you don't need to.

I have carefully torched the mesh, folded, retorched, rolled and re-torched again. The seam is facing center post. I tried what others say works with wick at 3.0" x 1.5" (400) and no way to get that to fit stock hole after 40 minutes of trying to tighten. Lowered to 2.5" and barely get it to fit, snug, but not excessively tight, I don't think.

Just no idea if I can make this work, but my experience to date has not been encouraging as to my future with RBA's.

The other thing missing from virtually all success posts is the specifics that are working. IE:

400 or 500 mesh?
Cut size that fits stock or drilled? I think the length is pretty common (1.5" to 1-5/8"), but not width being rolled.
What size wire did you use?
How many wraps?

That, as well as anything else you did that worked well would help those of us ready to throw these through a wall, which I'm pretty sure voids any warranty.

Thanks

 

[45root]

I'm beginning to think I may be too stupid for RBA's. I have been building wicks and coils all day, last 6 + hours.

Although none are cooking through the wire anymore, I can not get rid of the top coil as only one that glows. I re-read many posts, to include Ninja and e-human (early pages 12-15) and per Ninja advice, moved and moved and moved the coils with same results. Again trying with 30 and 32 AWG. I tried the drill bit thing yesterday, but not at all today, as it seems I do not need to. Tempted to try the top wire braid that as worked for some, although the ones that get it to work say you don't need to.

I have carefully torched the mesh, folded, retorched, rolled and re-torched again. The seam is facing center post. I tried what others say works with wick at 3.0" x 1.5" (400) and no way to get that to fit stock hole after 40 minutes of trying to tighten. Lowered to 2.5" and barely get it to fit, snug, but not excessively tight, I don't think.

Just no idea if I can make this work, but my experience to date has not been encouraging as to my future with RBA's.

The other thing missing from virtually all success posts is the specifics that are working. IE:

400 or 500 mesh?
Cut size that fits stock or drilled? I think the length is pretty common (1.5" to 1-5/8"), but not width being rolled.
What size wire did you use?
How many wraps?

That, as well as anything else you did that worked well would help those of us ready to throw these through a wall, which I'm pretty sure voids any warranty.

Thanks

I would suggest you keep trying and just ignore the comments about things being "a crutch." what works for you is what counts. There is no one way to do it. I have some with the twisted leads and some that still use washers. They work for me and I dont care if someone calls me a noob for it. Keep trying.

 

[Gunner83]

I'm beginning to think I may be too stupid for RBA's. I have been building wicks and coils all day, last 6 + hours.

<snip>

I'm in the same exact boat as you. For now, I've put my AGA off to the side, since I can't get it running right. Even when I do get it someone going, the metallic taste in each hit is overpowering (even after thoroughly washing the mesh before oxidizing).

I'm going to wait until the pre-made ceramic wicks become available and see if I have better luck with those.

 

[snottyragsdale]

I just got mine today from mountain oak vapors. I'm very impressed with the look and feel of it. The first wick I made for it was just big enough to fit the hole...but I trimmed it some in diameter for better airflow, and then had to do another 4/5 wrap with 32 kanthal. It's slowly working better and better...sucks that 400 ss mesh needs to be broken in, but it's worth it! I was lucky and didn't get the top hotspot with either coil. I'm glad it came with plastic tank as well as the quartz one, I built it using the quartz and filled it up...it was leaking at the bottom cuz it's shorter than the plastic tank...so I had to empty it and take it apart and start over. I'm loving the mega size and feel of this thing on my red Lavatube 2.0! It's gonna be nice not having to clean the center post every few days like my mini did clone. It kept getting a green corrosion cuz the center pin wasn't ss like the T+. All in all very happy, they just need to fix those quartz tanks! Oh, another thing, I expected the quartz to be thick, but that's really cool that the plastic tank was just as thick, something that would have been nice on my did clone as that cracked and leaks now! Now if the damned wick would break in already,

 

[Keithhe]

I have never bothered to put any juice in yet, so you are ahead of me. If I can't get coils right, don't even want to fill it.

I might be on my last try, at least for a while, as I have a crazy amout of time into this now. Since I have two, I decided to drill out the wick hole on one to 1/8". Even with cobalt bits, the SS is tougher than I thought and had a hart time figuring out a way to hold top without damaging it. Successful, but VERY close to the center cavity. I just put back togther and going to try every noob crutch I can. Drill bits, braided tops, I'll try anything.......even Voodoo

 

[zippersnapper]

If in a pinch, A piece of 10ga solid strand copper wire makes a nice winding post for coils. You can cut to length so its just tall enough when in your tank to wrap a coil comfortably. If this is a method you want to try, of course...

 

[Ansah]

400 or 500 mesh?
Cut size that fits stock or drilled? I think the length is pretty common (1.5" to 1-5/8"), but not width being rolled.
What size wire did you use?
How many wraps?

Thanks

This is just me, as others are doing it differently, but:

1)500 mesh

2)Cut: 40mm length x 45mm roll width, though I shortened the length with snips just a little bit after rolling so that the wick wouldn't be taller than the pos post. You need to make sure that the wick isn't touching the bottom of the tank.

3) 32ga kanthal

4) 5 wraps, giving me a 2.6 Ohm res.

I didn't throw the T+ against the wall, but did say a whole bunch of words that forum rules forbid me from repeating here.

At first, I had the top coil connection to the post hotspot, and fiddled with the connections until I had an even glow without the wick inserted. Then I inserted the wick and had the top hotspot again. So I removed and pressed and twisted the wick some more and re-oxidized it. Then I inserted again, and fiddled with the coils with the tip of a very small screwdriver until I got the nice even glow.

In truth, I don't know exactly how I fiddled into the position that works, and don't know if or how easily I will be able to do it again. But it can work and it vapes spectacularly when it does. Take a deep breath, relax and good luck.

 

[Keithhe]

OK,

The 89th try is evidently the charm.......but not really.

I finally got one to work, so-so. Not overly impressed, but I suspect that is because I really am just marginal in setup I suspect.

I drilled the wick hole 1/8" (stepped) in one of my two AGA's and only one I have fiddled with yet.

I used the next size down drill bit 7/64" as the crutch.

400 SS cut 1.5" x 3" and all requisite torch work

32 gauge Kanthal and tried 6 wraps, but too high resistance. Went to 5 wraps and getting 2.4 Ohms now.

Burn was OK, but not perfect, but closest I had gotten. Primed the coil and burned with wick in, then filled. With fill screw in it is nearly tastless, but does have some vapor, not clouds. Right now any of my Vivi Novas out perform this thing in every way.

Need to find some 500 mesh, and Monkey is out. Also, I'm disappointed that nobody seems to have any spare parts for these. DV did, and seems he was only vendor to bother, but he too is out. As I manged to lose all 4 original positive rubber gaskets in a rinse accident when new, I can only ever get one working now. Using the one spare that came with each.

By the way, for those at or about 2.4 Ohms, what voltage are you at?

 

[dgm76513]

Just got mine in and built today. Unfortunately, I did not order more SS mesh, but I did get a bit of Kanthal 30ga. 4 wraps gave 1.3 ohms, and it sure is a cool vape. The flavor is nice, though.

I don't think I could've got it built it right the first time without this thread.

Thanks

 

[Ansah]

By the way, for those at or about 2.4 Ohms, what voltage are you at?

I'm running 4.4 now at 2.6...

 

[eHuman]

Don't take my band-aid/crutch comment wrong. Most people myself included rely on them at first. Very few people have no problems at first, and when they do they end up in the same boat not already having gone through the learning curve.

The set up that works for me:
500 mesh (400 works fine), 1.5" x 3" rolled solid.
Torch both sides red once on the gas stove.
Roll it without a needle/paperclip/wire in the center.
When you have it about 1/3 rolled up, unroll it most of the way and work out the tiny straw hole in the center then continue to roll it solid. While rolling, pull pressure outward toward the ends like you are trying to make it longer (you won't don't worry).
Fold last 1/4" inward, get it nice and tight (only roll towards the end in one direction or you will loosen it up).
Torch on stove x3, clear juice burn x 3.
Wrap coil counter clock-wise on wick outside of RBA.
Slide into wick hole.
Attach negative counter clockwise making an "S" wick to screw.
Leaving a little bit of slack between the post and wick, attach positive clockwise making an "S" wick to post. You don't want the positive nut pulling the wire too much and causing the top coil to dig into the wick.
Dry burn on low volts, work out hot spots, even out coils.
NOTE: Pulse power, let it get orange and let go of the switch so you don't pop a coil, repeat until hot spots are gone.
Increase voltage and repeat.
Increase voltage and repeat.
Increase voltage and repeat.

No washers/L kinks/twisted positive lead/bent wick.
But by all means, if you have to use one of those band aids until you gain experience then do so. I did at first.

Using this method and 500 mesh you can leave the fill screw in and vape the tank dry without tilting it and without wicking issues.
Hang in there, it takes practice. It takes messing it up and figuring out what to do to fix it.

 

[eHuman]

Just got mine in and built today. Unfortunately, I did not order more SS mesh, but I did get a bit of Kanthal 30ga. 4 wraps gave 1.3 ohms, and it sure is a cool vape. The flavor is nice, though.

I don't think I could've got it built it right the first time without this thread.

Thanks

Congrats dgm, it feels good when you get it cruising the first time.

 

[dgm76513]

Congrats dgm, it feels good when you get it cruising the first time.

Sure does. You have any tricks for a warmer vape though? Perhaps a recommendation for a certain gauge and wrap?

It sure as hell makes all the flavors of any juice stand out. The bad part is; now I have juices that have way too much flavor now.

Never thought I'd have that problem.

 

[Keithhe]

Don't take my band-aid/crutch comment wrong. Most people myself included rely on them at first. Very few people have no problems at first, and when they do they end up in the same boat not already having gone through the learning curve.

The set up that works for me:
500 mesh (400 works fine), 1.5" x 3" rolled solid.
Torch both sides red once on the gas stove.
Roll it without a needle/paperclip/wire in the center.
When you have it about 1/3 rolled up, unroll it most of the way and work out the tiny straw hole in the center then continue to roll it solid. While rolling, pull pressure outward toward the ends like you are trying to make it longer (you won't don't worry).
Fold last 1/4" inward, get it nice and tight (only roll towards the end in one direction or you will loosen it up).
Torch on stove x3, clear juice burn x 3.
Wrap coil counter clock-wise on wick outside of RBA.
Slide into wick hole.
Attach negative counter clockwise making an "S" wick to screw.
Leaving a little bit of slack between the post and wick, attach positive clockwise making an "S" wick to post. You don't want the positive nut pulling the wire too much and causing the top coil to dig into the wick.
Dry burn on low volts, work out hot spots, even out coils.
NOTE: Pulse power, let it get orange and let go of the switch so you don't pop a coil, repeat until hot spots are gone.
Increase voltage and repeat.
Increase voltage and repeat.
Increase voltage and repeat.

No washers/L kinks/twisted positive lead/bent wick.
But by all means, if you have to use one of those band aids until you gain experience then do so. I did at first.

Using this method and 500 mesh you can leave the fill screw in and vape the tank dry without tilting it and without wicking issues.
Hang in there, it takes practice. It takes messing it up and figuring out what to do to fix it.

Thanks EHuman. Great detailed explaination. What size wire did you use, and how many wraps? BTW, the crutch comment I made was out of total frustration, and a need to see this work, even if not very well.

 

[Keithhe]

Sure does. You have any tricks for a warmer vape though? Perhaps a recommendation for a certain gauge and wrap?

It sure as hell makes all the flavors of any juice stand out. The bad part is; now I have juices that have way too much flavor now.

Never thought I'd have that problem.

DGM. Mine is sort of working and seems a bit better than when first done. Plenty of vapor, but very muted flavor and can't figure out why that would be.