Gotcha. I agree, as I've gotten wicks of varying oxidation & use levels, all solid, and I can hardly if at all.
Faxed in on the Mojo Wire
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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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Gotcha. I agree, as I've gotten wicks of varying oxidation & use levels, all solid, and I can hardly if at all.
Faxed in on the Mojo Wire
it's a lot of good info...i feel pretty confident with my past experience working on small electronics and the info from everyone that i won't have a problem diving into the rba world.
has any one gotten the aga-t+ from DV since Eric updated the description?
i'm guessing probably Monday before people start receiving them.
Sorry, I should have been a bit more clear. I roll the mesh as small as I can get it, then I torch it to fix the shape in place. once it's cooled (no quenching) I roll it between my fingers to tighten it further, then do a second and final torching to remove any oils that might have come off of my hands while I was tightening it. At this point it's ready to use.
I used M3 machine screws, with socket heads, to replace the existing screws in my AGA T and T+. No clue what the thread pitch is, but they are the ones with fine, rather than coarse threading. Hope that helps. Looked similar to this, except the ones I bought were shiny:
Shiny is probably chrome plated steel, what you have pictured is #8 grade steel, a dull satin steel looking finish would indicate SS, and would be my choice..
You have a great idea about swapping the screws out, which I am going to implement immediately myself. Thanx !!
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I stopped by and checked. What I bought was stainless steel. The one pictured has a black oxide finish. I bought the shortest and the next longest size they had. The longer of the two fills the hole completely and stops just short of the bottom of the head piece. the shorter one had lines on the cap that help me get a grip on it, so I used those for the grounding screws. They don't work any better than the screws that came with the AGA's, but they do make them look like more expensive mods when the caps come off.
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I stopped by and checked. What I bought was stainless steel. The one pictured has a black oxide finish. I bought the shortest and the next longest size they had. The longer of the two fills the hole completely and stops just short of the bottom of the head piece. the shorter one had lines on the cap that help me get a grip on it, so I used those for the grounding screws. They don't work any better than the screws that came with the AGA's, but they do make them look like more expensive mods when the caps come off.
Excellent. If the lines you are referring to, are on the top of a hex head bolt, that indicates the grade of steel..
http://www.dot.state.il.us/materials/fasteneridentificationguide.pdf
No. Thay are not like that at all. These aren't hex head anyways. The short one has lines in the side of the bolt like the one in the picture I posted. The longer one has smooth sides. I'll try to get pictures posted sometime tomorrow.
Curiosity question, What version of AGA-T are you using these SS cap screws to replace? The T2/+ has SS cap screws already. Is yours the original AGA-T?
I have mine and the glass tank edges are darn near PERFECT.
I had to put it side by side with the plastic one and the glass is clearer while the plastic has a slight blue tint and is lighter.
NO jagged edges!!!!
I ordered an extra glass tank just in case and both are very good.
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I think I will like the silcone washers better also.
There is a spare included.
This a bargain genny.
I also have a ZAP to compare.
There's a video somewhere in here and eHuman has posted a step by step. You just gotta read through the thread and do a little bit of research. It's all here or out there somewhere in the internet.
Understood PLano. You have allen head hex. This I am aware of. I simply put that there so you would (If interested) have a understanding of how hardware is marked to indicate the grade of steel used in the manufacture..
Here are some stainless hex cap screws that will do the trick:
20 Pack Stainless Allen Bolt Cap Screw M2 M2 5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 | eBay
You can pick the length you want as well.
20 Pack Stainless Allen Bolt Cap Screw M2 M2 5 M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 | eBay
You can pick the length you want as well.
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I am using them on both versions of the AGA-T, the original (from discount vapor's second run) and the T+. If I wasn't planning on boring out the wick hole and/or the air hole on the T+, I would strongly consider trading it for a deknurled AGA-T. I like the stainless center post, and that's about it.
I tried popping the pressfit ground out using the tap with a scewdriver and hammer trick and got nowhere on the T+. Does anyone have any suggestions? Otherwise I'm going to try drilling it out. I really want to try the U wick option.
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So they are upgrades for the AGA-T and spares for the +?.
I would try a punch sized to barelt fit inside of the hole from the bottom. Maximum PSI spread evenly, a screw driver puts more pressure on an uneven area concentrated only on contact points. This causes binding a seizing if not done (luckily) just right.
Home Depot or Lowes is your friend.
If you're going to drill it out and don't care about saving it, it comes off quite easily with a pair of pliers and bit of wiggling. I just held the top cap in my hand, grabbed the ground post and wiggled it out of the hole. It left a few plier marks on the post, but I can't re-use it anyway because I drilled out the hole it occupied. Threw it in the parts bin just in case.
Tried the pliers and wiggle method. It broke off right at the surface of the cap. 
I was planning on drilling it out anyways, so not a big loss.
I was planning on drilling it out anyways, so not a big loss.
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