If your connections are tight, it is probably your positive post connection not extending down far enough to hit you pv. (Your problem is a loose connection one way or another). Loosen the three nuts a little and press the post down to make better contact with the pv.
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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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If your connections are tight, it is probably your positive post connection not extending down far enough to hit you pv. (Your problem is a loose connection one way or another). Loosen the three nuts a little and press the post down to make better contact with the pv.
The first hit in Google when searching for "AGA-T2 spare parts" came up with a link to Hoosier Vapes...and Vapor Cigzz...and Vapour Solutions...and Jugheads...
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Wow, it's pretty sad to think that I never thought of just buying the spare parts bag from a vendor... disregard this thread lol
i give up on this thing!!!!!!!!!!! I can get a Terminator, pheonix, and a Vision Eternity to work. But this little sister has spanked my ..... 30 ml juice, .6 miles of 28 kantal, and 1 foot of 400 mesh gone too plus all the entertainment of going blind working on this thing. I'll put it in a box and remember it when I need to be punished again.
I have no idea bro. I havent purchased one since they first came out with the glass. I know they are still getting pretty good sales. Someone will chime in soon enough.
Good Lord . . . This was a lot of reading. However, lots of good helpful info here. I'll be taking a stab at it in a few more days. Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences.
Unless my setup just really sucks and I don't know I have it working pretty well in the first week and its my first RBA. What are your issues.
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much appreciated, eHuman. i hadnt even thought of the pos pole connection at the 510 connection of the device. my pos pin was protruding enough from the RBA, but i had been keeping the RBA a tad loose so as to line up the wick with the fire button (and also to preserve the connector pin on my vamo). after screwing the atty down completely, the ohm jumping subsided. it did return slightly and i have attributed this to the wobbly connector on the vamo. with the weight of an AGA, and the looseness of the threads on the vamo, it was causing wacky ohm readings. no matter how far i screw it down, it still wobbles and throws off the reading. but...if i keep it in wattage mode, it should automatically adjust for any errors and still give me the vape i want, so far so good.
just for kicks, i screwed the aga onto my provari last night. the difference in snugness on the 510 threads is like night and day. ohms have not jumped even in the slightest. i dislike the look of a tapered top with a wide rba such as the AGA, but i dislike wacky ohm readings even more. i do realyl liek the hybrid look of an aga on a vamo though. maybe i can sure up the threads on the vamo somehow...perhaps some teflon plumbers tape will do the trick.(?)
Kemosabe, they make an adapter, I think its called a "hippo" that covers the taper of the provari and makes a provari/aga-t look similar to a hybrid mod.
Food for thought, generic advice: Every time you have Ω values jumping around it is always attributed to either a poor connection (typically jumps up), or a short (typically jumps down). If there are no shorts or opens, your Ωs should remain rock steady.
Food for thought, generic advice: Every time you have Ω values jumping around it is always attributed to either a poor connection (typically jumps up), or a short (typically jumps down). If there are no shorts or opens, your Ωs should remain rock steady.
The Hippo has airflow control more appropriate for carto-tanks. It'll work for genesis but its $45 versus $20 for a Pro-Cap.
IIRC Pro-Caps are available at Bomb Vapor. There is a thread I started in the Provari subsection but I've pretty much spaced on who is selling them (I bought them direct via FB & PP).
IIRC Pro-Caps are available at Bomb Vapor. There is a thread I started in the Provari subsection but I've pretty much spaced on who is selling them (I bought them direct via FB & PP).
Just wanted to post back with my results. I bored out my wick hole to somewhere between 3.2-3.5mm and rolled up 80mm of #500 mesh. I can now say my AGA is working like I hoped it would to start with. I can only imagine more wick will = more vapor/better vape because the wick stays nice and wet. I will probably try to fit 100mm in it later on. The flavor is definitely better, I think just because the wick has a lot more juice so it doesn't really dry out. As soon as I can find a way to drill through the stainless a lot easier I will bore out of all of my AGA"s.
for lack of better terminology, stainless is a "....." to drill without being in a metal shop.
HSS or cobalt bits, low rpm, high force, and lots of coolant. and a drill press is almost a necessity.
our buses at work are almost all stainless. i dread having to drill holes to change body panels, refit handrails, etc etc.
HSS or cobalt bits, low rpm, high force, and lots of coolant. and a drill press is almost a necessity.
our buses at work are almost all stainless. i dread having to drill holes to change body panels, refit handrails, etc etc.
+1 on that dingo. I think I will save the next one either for a drill press or a better dremel brand diamond grinding wheel. Dremel is one of those things were it really makes a difference to own the brand name one.
sorry but I must disagree. I did mine holding it in my hand sitting on the living room couch. I used a cheap drill thats supposed to be "smart" It has decent power on a full battery though. I used these bits: dremel brrand and dewalt brand. nothing fancy just a cheap drill I got for christmas and some regular bits.
I use a dremel and a random bit I found in a drawer to drill out the airholes on all my atties, never had any problems.
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