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What would be considered over oxidized? The only time I've wanted to throw my aga out the window is when I experimented with very minimal oxidation.
It's hard to say, given the many rampant methods used to achieve oxidation.
Minimal is using their coils & pulsing to achieve oxidation only where the coil needs it.
I only tend to torch the sidelines of the wick that'll meet the coil. I consider this pretty minimal myself but it is probably closer to the 'medium.'
Then some will torch the whole sheet, roll, torch again, cover in liquid catch on fire dip in water etc. Imo that is heavy oxidation.
Faxed in on the Mojo Wire
Minimal is using their coils & pulsing to achieve oxidation only where the coil needs it.
I only tend to torch the sidelines of the wick that'll meet the coil. I consider this pretty minimal myself but it is probably closer to the 'medium.'
Then some will torch the whole sheet, roll, torch again, cover in liquid catch on fire dip in water etc. Imo that is heavy oxidation.
Faxed in on the Mojo Wire
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I think you may have 0.8x0.1 ribbon, which is about equivalent resistance to 28awg A1 Kanthal. IMO, the 0.4x0.1mm-0.6x0.1mm ribbon works the best. If you get too wide of a wire, the wick can't breathe as it is heated. In other words, it is great if you get more surface area, but if vapor can only escape from a small area, you have defeated the purpose, which is a greater, more flavorful vape. In addition, the resistance is almost prohibitively low unless you wrap it many times, and there again, with the added width you cover too much of the wick. I have found that 0.4x0.1mm works best for me, but I like a higher resistance vape (1.8-2.0). The coverage to resistance ratio works out for my application. You should probably switch to a thinner, higher resistance ribbon. There is a company out of Germany called Zivipf. They have a wide range of ribbon thicknesses from 0.3mm to 0.8mm. Their prices are quite low, even considering the vat tax and shipping to the US. If you are lucky you can find some on Ebay, but that's hit and miss.
I don't know if you're using a ProV2 or not, but if so, or a similar VV device with a 3.5 amp limit, that's why you can't push it further than 3.1v. At 3.1v your at 3.44444.... amps; with 3.2v your at 3.55555... busting the limit.
Having one helluva time with my AGA-T2 right now. Took out the ceramic and put in a #500 I've had & used for a little while. Top coil hot spots abound. Fooled and fiddled with it trying all the usual tactics and it just refuses to go away.
Only difference is I'm using some braided 32g. Stuff worked great on the ceramic so wanted to try it on SS mesh but its killing me at the moment.
Thankfully my AGA-T & carto-tank are working great.
My vapor production is down on the AGAs too. I need to fiddle with my general setup me thinks.
Only difference is I'm using some braided 32g. Stuff worked great on the ceramic so wanted to try it on SS mesh but its killing me at the moment.
Thankfully my AGA-T & carto-tank are working great.
My vapor production is down on the AGAs too. I need to fiddle with my general setup me thinks.
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Curt, thanks for the reply. Insightful and now I have to research ribbon wire.
Vego, yes it's a V2.
Getting a Drawtube soon so I can't wait to experiment with it.
Vego, yes it's a V2.
Getting a Drawtube soon so I can't wait to experiment with it.
Think this will work for drilling out wick holes?
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-close-uarters-drill-60610.html
I've been using my friends drill. but thought if I could find a cheap one that would work I might as well get my own.
http://www.harborfreight.com/38-close-uarters-drill-60610.html
I've been using my friends drill. but thought if I could find a cheap one that would work I might as well get my own.
You get what you pay for in terms of durability. Also, that one is a low amp, low RPM drill. Is there any reason that you need a close quarters drill? If not, this one is an option (I'm assuming you are on a tight budget):
Power Glide Electric Drill (60109409) - Amazon.com
I would avoid keyless chucks because of possible bit slippage issues. More important is the bits. The AGA-t2 top section is difficult to drill through, so titanium or cobalt bits are required unless you want to be drilling for a long time. You'll probably go through several regular bits to get the job done and put a lot of stress on your drill.
If you are getting into mechanical mods, the 0.8x0.1mm with low resistance shouldn't be a problem. Experimenting with other ribbon wire like the 0.6x0.1mm would be an option. I use the higher resistance ribbon because I use a vv mod with a 3.5 amp limit. I wish I could afford a mod with the Evolv DNA 20d in it, like Shan Mods The Boom. That would solve my amp limit issue. I don't have $155 right now. My wife says my budget for ecig stuff is $0 right now. Get that! I go to work, make money, and spend it on bills. I should sell something. I have 6 cats. If I sell them at $20 a piece, that gets me closer to the mark, plus I don't have to put up with the hair, litter boxes, food, and waking me up every morning at 5 am. Can I put cats in the classifieds here? Furthermore, can I make a mod out of a cat or a litter box? It even sounds good--Litter Box Mod. There might be a market there.
Received my AGA T2 four days ago. I have had a really good experience, thus far, which is due in large to this particular thread.
Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences.
eHuman, thank you for your contribution and the blogs. Obviously, I have benefitted from everyone and was able to cut my learning curve down considerably.
One thing that I noticed is . . . I only need to snug down the top nut of the positive connection. Cranking it down always lead to a hotspot on the very top coil.
As I have a 100 ft roll of 30g Kanthal, I practice making coils on a spare SS wick, while watching the baseball games. That has really helped.
#500 SS, 6/5 30g Kanthal coil @ 1.6 ohms . . . and vaping away.
- Andy . . . Challenge in lieu of being challenged.
Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences.
eHuman, thank you for your contribution and the blogs. Obviously, I have benefitted from everyone and was able to cut my learning curve down considerably.
One thing that I noticed is . . . I only need to snug down the top nut of the positive connection. Cranking it down always lead to a hotspot on the very top coil.
As I have a 100 ft roll of 30g Kanthal, I practice making coils on a spare SS wick, while watching the baseball games. That has really helped.
#500 SS, 6/5 30g Kanthal coil @ 1.6 ohms . . . and vaping away.
- Andy . . . Challenge in lieu of being challenged.
I'm still on the original coil I made and this thing just gets better and better. I was in my office last night getting some work done (playing halo) and fogged up the whole room.
I just built my first coil successfully. but the resistance was to low to fire on my provari. I used 28 gauge kanthal. I fired it on my ego and the taste was harsh. I figured u would try again with .32 gauge? any tips?
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I did that on my first coil, as well. What has been working for my provari is what I noted above. Keep at it.
- Andy . . . Challenge the day.
Depends...cooked or uncooked? It makes a difference.
...and I don't think litter box mods will ever take off. Sorry.
Edit: Now a stuffed cat mod would be interesting. I'm not sure where the ideal mouthpiece would go. There's only two spots on a cat that has a natural opening, and you would look mighty weird vaping from either one.
With some modification and jury rigged parts, I'm sure you could make a nice cat pipe. Here's one:
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I will probably go with the one you listed. I was mainly looking at Harbor Freight because I didn't want to spend $100+ on a drill and wanted something I could run to the store and pick up. But, with Amazon Prime (free 2 day shipping) and what looks to be a decent quality for the limited use it will get with this application the one you listed looks like my best option. Thanks a bunch
Wow, I'm pretty impressed with my first AGA-T2, drilled the air hole out with a #53 drill bit, wound up a 500ss wick, wrapped a 1.7ohm coil of 32ga Kanthal. Filled it with some Mt Baker Root Beer, the flavor is awesome, clouds of thick vapor, running 8.5w on my Vamo.
My second AGA-T2 I drilled the air hole out with a #51 bit. I used the included piece of mesh for the wick, wrapped the coil with 28ga Kanthal. ProV is giving a Lo for the ohms so I can only assume it's under .8ohms. Working well on my Bolt with an AW 18650 imr.
Overall I give them an enthusiastic thumbs up. For the price these are very nice products, even ignoring the price they are very nice and provide as good a vape as my "high end" gennys. Very pleased with my purchase!
My second AGA-T2 I drilled the air hole out with a #51 bit. I used the included piece of mesh for the wick, wrapped the coil with 28ga Kanthal. ProV is giving a Lo for the ohms so I can only assume it's under .8ohms. Working well on my Bolt with an AW 18650 imr.
Overall I give them an enthusiastic thumbs up. For the price these are very nice products, even ignoring the price they are very nice and provide as good a vape as my "high end" gennys. Very pleased with my purchase!
Congrats buzzsaw, and you can expect the aga-t experience to get better as you go through the motions and have a few set ups behind you.
My first set up was using the supplied wick and wire, and I had what I thought was a good set up compared to any cart or atty I had tried up to that point. I had to vape with the fill screw out, but flavor and vapor were awesome. Reading, tinkering and experimenting proved that the first set up was just adequate. The fact that you aren't new to gennys though, you probably were able to bypass quite a few noob mistakes that most of us go through.
My first set up was using the supplied wick and wire, and I had what I thought was a good set up compared to any cart or atty I had tried up to that point. I had to vape with the fill screw out, but flavor and vapor were awesome. Reading, tinkering and experimenting proved that the first set up was just adequate. The fact that you aren't new to gennys though, you probably were able to bypass quite a few noob mistakes that most of us go through.
Buzzsaw, you gave me the boot in the ... I needed to finally drill out my air hole. 1/16th. I'm getting at least 20% more vapor... maybe even 30%. And the draw is entirely doable. Awesome!
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