Have I seen the light?

[ZDT223]

Or am I starting to at least? Please correct any mistakes/missteps in logic.

I recently upgraded to an MVP 3 Pro from an MVP 2. I did so with the intention of having more of a broad range to experiment with. This was before I read about how sub-ohm vaping actually comes from mech mods (correct?)

I did a 1 ohm dual coil build ( 2ohm coil x2) with the intention of pushing the watts higher, but anything over 30 would just burn juice like mad and wasn't working too well. I learned enough of ohms law (somewhat) to be able to understand the parameters I can work with as far as battery safety goes. When I started putting numbers into the calculator I saw that both the volts and amps were at about 5.


I then read a thread on here about the relationship between all the different factors that come into play in rebuilding i.e. surface area, airflow, etc.
My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices... | E-Cigarette Forum


I then pulled out one of the coils from my build, leaving a single 28 gauge 2 ohm coil. I cut off the airflow to the opposite side of my atomizer. I fogged up the bathroom at (edit- 25) watts with a nice, smooth, flavorful vape.

The ohm calculator shows the volts at 7.75 and the amps at 3.9. (Will this drain my battery faster, or slower?)

I still don't fully grasp ohms law (also read the blog about the water wheel, and a few other threads which have helped tremendously). These types of things don't usually come easy, but when they do they tend to stick.


Am I on the right track here?

 

[Robert Cromwell]

Did you have 2 1 ohm coils in there? If so the coil resistance as far as the battery was concerned is .5 ohms.

 

[ZDT223]

Did you have 2 1 ohm coils in there? If so the coil resistance as far as the battery was concerned is .5 ohms.

Nope, 2 ohm (x2)

 

[K_Tech]

Think of the battery as the gas tank, and the amount of current flowing as the amount of gas flowing to the engine. The faster the amps flow, the sooner the tank (battery) gets drained.

There are several factors that go into a vape. Atomizer design, air flow, power (directly related to current flow through the coil(s)), coil design, wick material and density, and e-liquid flow to the wick.

Obviously, there's no one specific magic formula that fits every situation. You can get a good vape at 7 watts or at 70 watts, it depends on your setup.

The nice thing about variable power/voltage devices is that you can fine-tune the power to match your setup. Personally, I am usually around 15 to 25 watts depending on what I am vaping on.

Also, learning how to tweak and fine-tune your vape takes a little time. If at first you don't succeed, practice more. Some people pick it up quickly, some need more help. Fortunately for us, it's a little easier than leaning how to juggle rabid badgers.

 

[Baditude]

Not everyone enjoys high wattage or sub-ohm vaping. "Tootle Puffers" enjoy higher ohms and lower watts. In fact, the vast majority of vapers vape less than 10 watts according to recent polls. High wattage/sub ohm vaping gets a lot of attention on a vaping forum because forums attract more hobbyists/enthusiasts/hard core vapers.

Are YOU a Tootle Puffer??

I enjoy both, although my sub-ohmming only goes down to 0.6 ohms; anything lower than that is too warm for me. I'm more of a "flavor" guy, but I also like seeing some decent vapor production. I usually vape at less than 10 watts on my regulated mods.

Generally speaking, the less power (watts or volts) used and the higher resistance coils used ... the less drain on the battery and the longer it will last per charge.

If it's just more vapor production you are seeking, order your custom flavors with a higher Vg ratio. Most online juice manufacturers will custom make to the pg/vg ratio you desire.

 

[Susan~S]

This was before I read about how sub-ohm vaping actually comes from mech mods (correct?)

You don't have to use a mech mod to sub-ohm. There are MANY regulated mods will fire subΩ coils.

 

[ZDT223]

I understand that- my MVP 3 Pro will fire down to .2

a quote from the above linked thread:


"A mod is really just that... What we these days refer to as a "mechanical mod". A battery and some sort of switch mechanism. This means a FIXED voltage. Now the thing is, with a fixed voltage if I want to produce more watts, and therefore heat, I only have one other variable I can adjust... Resistance.

Soon it was realized that the lower the resistance of the coil, the more wattage was produced, and therefore more heat was released... Meaning a higher heat flux and more juice getting vaporized.

Sub-ohm was born.... As batteries improved and could handle higher and higher currents, lower and lower resistances could be utilized.

This all culminated into the idea that seems to be ingrained in so many's heads to this very day... The lower the resistance, the more vapor I produce. And in the case of a mechanical mod, that's exactly correct.

Early VV and VW devices couldn't handle very much current and/or wattage. So this still held true. If you wanted large clouds of creamy tasty vapor, you needed a mechanical mod with a sub-ohm build.

But more recently there has been a slew of high power regulated mods coming out."




Point being sub-ohms aren't necessarily the end all be all for getting pretty decent amounts of vapor, especially with the newer vv/vw devices, i.e. I dont have to build that low and push the watts super high to get what I'm after, with my particular device. This coming from a place where I thought I couldn't do anything without super low builds and super high watts.

 

[Susan~S]

Point being sub-ohms aren't necessarily the end all be all for getting pretty decent amounts of vapor, especially with the newer vv/vw devices, i.e. I dont have to build that low and push the watts super high to get what I'm after, with my particular device. This coming from a place where I thought I couldn't do anything without super low builds and super high watts.

Very true!

And if you are interest in cooling down or warming up your vape check out @State O'Flux. blog on the "Steam Engine": Steam Engine: From Basic Use to Advanced Features

 

[DoubleTap1]

We were all new to this at one time, but you are in the right place to start.
For your first question: No you do not need a mech mod to sub-ohm. In fact many prefer to use variable watt/volt mods simply because you can regulate the power you want to the atty you are using.
Like you, when I first started I was all wrapped up in what is the best watts and ohms. There is nothing perfect, in time you will discover on your own what YOU like. There is nothing magic about sub-ohming. You can run a dripper at 1.0 ohms or 0.2 ohms, it’s what you prefer with regard to performance and flavor.
If you build a single coil and it reads 1.0 on your ohms tester, building another one exactly the same will leave you with 0.5 in a duel coil mode. (half the first coil)
Generally speaking you’ll find that with most RTA’s, anything between 0.5 and 1.7 will work fine and the differences would take a more experienced vapor to distinguish. So don’t fuss with the small stuff, but ALWAYS test what you build in a tester before you put it in any type of atomizer. Don’t assume because you hear guys vaping at 25-35 watts that that is the sweet spot. Many things come into play which determine the watts best suited for the device for YOU. I have shamefully collected many atty’s and devices and I will tell you most of the time I vape with a build around 1.0 to 1.5 ohms, between 15 to 17 watts. (8 wraps 2.4mm) My Drippers (RDA’s) I’m usually at 0.3 to 0.7.
Most of my builds I’m using 26g or 28g. Dripper single coil 24g, or duel coil 28g and 26g.
Wicking is a whole other subject and depending what you are using can be easy or a PITA.
I have several original attys, Squape, Rose, Erlkoenigin etc…. and for me what I take out the door the most often is my Kayfun V4, it just works flawlessly every day all day; it’s my work horse. Best flavor is my Rose for use at home in the evening when I’m just relaxing; but for me the most difficult to work consistently. In this market for the most part you get what you pay for, but I should also add that though I have paid the price for admission, I do have a couple of clones (drippers) that seem to be working fine, at least for the time being. Bought them simply because I could not find the original and wanted to know if buying the original was worth the price.
Bottom line, use what works for you to keep off the cig’s.
Everything you can possibly imagine to enlighten your knowledge is here in this forum.

 

[Bunnykiller]

you can only see the light when you have your thumb off the button when its pressed...

 

[Robert Cromwell]

I wonder where all the color in the highly colored ejuice goes? if not in the vapor you exhale it all stays in your lungs?

 

[K_Tech]

I wonder where all the color in the highly colored ejuice goes? if not in the vapor you exhale it all stays in your lungs?

Depends on what the pigment is, and at what temperature it vaporizes. My guess is that most of it ends up caked on your coils and wick after the moisture is evaporated.

 

[Robert Cromwell]

The vapor carries nicotine, sweetener, and flavor why not the coloring as well?

 

[Baditude]

The vapor carries nicotine, sweetener, and flavor why not the coloring as well?

There are a lot of components in e-liquid which does not get vaporized.

Companies which add caffeine (not recommended) to their e-liquid don't understand the chemistry. Caffeine's vaporization temperature is higher than what our vaporizers can vaporize it, so it remains in the tank and accumulates there.

 

[Robert Cromwell]

There are a lot of components in e-liquid which does not get vaporized.

Companies which add caffeine (not recommended) to their e-liquid don't understand the chemistry. Caffeine's vaporization temperature is higher than what our vaporizers can vaporize it, so it remains in the tank and accumulates there.

Ever check the boiling point of Sucralose? over 600c. So how does the vape taste sweet with Sucralose as the sweetner?

 

[Baditude]

Ever check the boiling point of Sucralose? over 600c. So how does the vape taste sweet with Sucralose as the sweetner?

Probably why most sweet juices gunk up coils, heh?

 

[Robert Cromwell]

Yeah the flash point of Sucralose is around 300c or so. So it burns before it vaporizes?

But my point is that some of it carries out in the vapor otherwise it would not sweeten your vape.

 

[ZDT223]

I thought the color thing was more of a philosophical vape question


Good stuff all, thanks for the input! I really feel like I have hit my own personal sweet spot with my setup, and I couldn't have done it without help from this place!

 

[Robert Cromwell]

Philosophical Vaping? I will have to ponder upon that for a while.

 

[ZDT223]

ooooohhhhhhmmmmmm