having a strange issue... help?

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ch44

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Jul 23, 2013
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Okay. So I bought an ego to start and a few weeks ago I decided to move up to variable voltage and all that fun stuff. It was sort of an impulse buy; I just happened to be in the store and my friend kept harping about how I need to "get a lightsaber" and how amazing it was etc etc...

Anyways I ended up buying a Smok Zmaxx (It's a telescoping variable voltage mod with an LCD screen.) I was somewhat doubtful of it because I didn't know anything about it but I gave it a shot. It was about $60 for the mod (battery and charger separate.)

I tried it with some of my tanks; some expensive "jessy" tanks from a different vape shop, as well as relatively cheap plastic smokrbc tanks from the same place I got the zmaxx, a drip atty, etc etc. The drip was fine but the expensive tanks didn't work so great, I kept getting burnt tasting hits off and on. The cheap tanks (which are bottom coil) worked great for a day or two then all developed a burnt taste (and the liquid at the bottom of the tanks darkened as if burnt) and one developed an "I'm-inhaling-plastic" taste. gross. Probably not good.

Thinking it was the tanks, I bought 3 kanger mini protank IIs.

With these, all sorts of weird stuff happened. If I pull for more than a few seconds, I often get a nasty burnt taste. Sometimes when I am pulling, the tanks start sizzling and even when I stop pressing the button the tank keeps vaping (though the LCD screen shuts off) until I literally unscrew the tank! Also, I can only vape on really low voltage with these kangers. Like 3.2 or 3.3. Any higher and it almost always burns.

This is really odd because all 3 kangers have coils in them that say 2.5ohms. According to the chart here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/476066-same-juice-different-taste-why.html I should be able to go up to 4.5 volts on a 2.5ohm coil, before really risking burning the liquid. ...?

Then, I tested the feature in the zmaxx that tells you what resistance the tank/atty/etc you have attached to it has. Well, 2 of the kanger tanks come up as 2.7ohms while one comes up as 2.5. ...?? First of all, if they really were 2.7, shouldn't that mean I could go EVEN HIGHER voltage without burning? This makes no sense!

To see if the problem might be the tanks, I tried the same tanks out on my old ego stick mod and they work beautifully on that. No burning taste, monster pulls, tons of vapor... ...????

Can anyone explain what is going on here?

THANKS!
 

xtwosm0kesx

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Which version of Zmaxx is it?

A quick search makes mention of the certain zmaxx versions having an RMS and Mean setting, similar to older Vamo's.

If its set on Mean value voltage instead of RMS this could explain why youre getting so much power at such low voltage settings.

From what ive read there is an 8th menu on the zmaxx (v2 at least) that allows you to switch between RMS(you want this) and mean value. The RMS setting may be labeled as "ANS" possibly.
 
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Coastal Cowboy

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It's not unusual for a coil to continue to heat liquid for a second or so after releasing the fire button. My Vamo does it, especially at higher wattage settings that I like to use with some liquids. Just because a hot coil loses power doesn't mean it has immediately cooled off enough to stop vaporizing.

The dry hits are caused by the inability of the wicking system to deliver liquid to the coil as fast as you're trying to vaporize it. You might want to slow down a little bit. After taking several non-dry hits, try a few power off draws and set it down for a minute or two. Then try again. If it's not dry-hitting, a power off draw or two again.

If the problem persists, consider replacing the flavor wicks with an equal or larger amount of cotton from a 100% sterile cotton ball or cotton cheesecloth. Peaches yarn from Walmart works, too. Just don't dry burn with cotton in place.
 

crxess

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Here is a number to help you learn about Variable Voltage.

2 VOLTS over atomizer ohms - MAX!!!

I.E.:
1.8ohm coil - 3.8 Volts - MAX
2.5ohm coil - 4.5 volts - MAX

MAX means the maximum you should need to turn up your Variable Voltage device - ASSUMING wicking can feed enough e-liquid to keep up.
Having power to spare does not mean using all spare power. If it taste burnt, turn it down.

Yes the engine could push the car 200mph..........The tires were only rated for 140mph....BOOM......:blink:
 

r77r7r

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    V2 Zmax-


    Home > Advanced PV's > Manufactured PV's > Variable Watt/Volt
    SMOK ZMAX Telescoping Variable Power, VV APV, Rev.2 - Stainless
    Item Id: ST-ZMAX-Tele-Stainless
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    Add to Wish List Add to Wish LisDescription
    ZMAX Telescoping Variable Power (adjustable wattage) VV APV, Rev.2 - Stainless
    Stainless ZMAX Telescope Adjustable Wattage APV
    The new ZMAX Advanced Personal Vaporizer is sleek, powerful, reliable, full featured and very well built just like its cousin the VMAX. With this new version, Voltage or Wattage is variable 3-6 volts or 3-15 watts respectively, using a single 18350, 18500, 18650 or two 18350 IMR batteries, (all available separately). Check atomizer/carto resistance and battery voltage too! The Telescoping design allows for different length batteries.

    The new Rev. 2 Zmax has one extra menu item (8) which enables you to switch between RMS and mean value voltage monitoring. The RMS mode is more accurate because it samples the output Voltage repeatedly while it is powering an atomizer or cartomizer. It is with these measurements that it is able to adjust for heat related Voltage drift.

    With it's 4 Amp output, it is sure to rock whatever device you want to run on it. This version has a blue button and blue LED display that can be turned off. ZMax has the native eGo/510 connection so it will run the Vision eGo Clearomizers, CE4/5 and other eGo devices without adapters. Run 808 devices as well with a 510-808 adapter.

    It will work with flat or button top IMR's and protected Li-Ion batteries.

    Never use non-rechargeable batteries in this or any other e-cig device! Only use the recommended batteries for this unit, it's for your safety.

    Choose the Make It a Kit option to get batteries and a charger at a discounted price.

    Menu:

    1. Uu- Voltage up
    2. Ud- Voltage down
    3. So- Standby / on/off
    4. Uc- Battery voltage check
    5. Ds- Display change / Resistance Ω/Voltage output/Voltage under load 'live'

    Do - Display atomizer/cartomizer output voltage
    Du - Display battery output voltage
    Dr - Display atomizer/cartomizer resistance

    6. Lo- LED on/off
    7. Up- Voltage power (Wattage setting)

    Po - Constant power (wattage) operation

    Uo - Constant voltage operation

    8. Change voltage calculation method, RMS or MEAn calculation

    RMS - More accurate (preferred), looks like ANS on screen
    MEA - Older method used by V/Zmax (hotter), looks like NEA on screen


    In the event of a fault, the following error codes may appear on your ZMAX device:
    LOR - Atomizer/cartomizer resistance is too low
    LOU - Battery voltage is too low, replace or charge battery
    WSC - Short circuit in faulty atomizer/cartomizer
     
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    ch44

    Full Member
    Jul 23, 2013
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    sorry for the delay guys, I have it on RMS (it's the default setting anyways) so that is not the issue. I think the mod is defective.

    I understand that just because a coil can handle 4.5, doesn't mean I should use it at 4.5. However, I can't even hit 3.5 without burning!

    Also as I said, when I use the same tanks on my ego mod, I can puff like a dragon without any issues... so I don't think it's a wicking problem...

    As for the juices, I am using a variety - some good life vapors flavors, some mt baker, and some vapeny... all produce the same results so I don't think that's a factor either. And again, on the ego they work fine.
     

    OlDogNewTricks

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    Aug 21, 2013
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    The point of variable mods is being able to adjust them. Just turn it down to where it doesn't burn. If you can't get it low enough, take it back, it's defective. I am not a fan of the 33Hz pulse width modulation that the 'max's use (the rattlesnake noise it makes with some atomizers). Some are beginning to talk about the fact that pulsing the coil like that compounds the heat, causing burning. Just my two cents. Good luck and have fun!
     

    Stosh

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    Congrats on your first upgrade!! :toast: You went from a VW bug to a Camero SS, now to re-learn how to drive...:laugh:

    First as far as using it, the draw is the most important item for any atty, carto, clearo, top or bottom coil.
    Start by pressing the fire button 1/2 second before drawing (slight pre-heat) the take a long, slow gentle pull, 1/2 way through let go the fire button briefly and re-fire, (this allows the coil to cool very slightly, and draws up more juice) then finish the draw letting go of the fire button 1/2 second before you're finished (cools the coil, draws up more juice, reduces condensation)

    Sounds complicated but after a few days becomes second nature, works with any "topper", and resistance (if low ohm increase the time off the button in the middle).

    Also, don't get hung up on numbers, ohms, volts, watts, amps all don't matter, it's what tastes good to you, flavor is number one consideration!!
     

    Racehorse

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    sorry for the delay guys, I have it on RMS (it's the default setting anyways) so that is not the issue. I think the mod is defective.

    Time to take the clearo tanks you tested on, as well as the Ego batts and the Zmax into your vendor, so they can see what you mean.\

    Bring the egos so you can show how the clearos work fine on them.

    I'm sure they will straighten it out. GOOD LUCK!
     
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