HCigar HB DNA40 Questions

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fugitiv3

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Aug 30, 2014
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Hello All,

I dont know if this is the correct forum to post this, if its not then please move it to the correct one.

So, I have bought the latest HB DNA40 (with the atty lock feature) and I have some questions.

I have a sigelei box mod 150w using it with Magma at 1.2ohms. When I place my magma on my new HB DNA40 (Wattage Mode) sometimes it reads at 1.15 or 1.16 or 1.17 and when I push the fire button the ohms jump from 1.15-1.19. On my ohm meter it reads 1.26. Keep a note that I didnt have any ohms jump on my Sigelei its always 1.2. So I am sure that the screws are tighten plus the connection on the spring loaded pin is good.

Is this normal or I have a defective hb dna 40?

Also using temp control with a Subtank mini plus nickel coils(0.15ohms) the rest resistance reading some times its 0.13 or 0.14 or 0.15 or 0.16. Is this normal? I am changing places which might have temperature impact?
Also if my rest resistance is 0.14 and I vape it for 1-2 hours and then place it on the table and come back to vape it again after half hour the ohm may jump to 0.15 or 0.16 (I dont use the atty lock)

I hope I was clear and looking for you advises and information.

Thanks
 
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Shigura

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Hello All,

I dont know if this is the correct forum to post this, if its not then please move it to the correct one.

So, I have bought the latest HB DNA40 (with the atty lock feature) and I have some questions.

I have a Sigelei box mod 150w using it with Magma at 1.2ohms. When I place my magma on my new HB DNA40 (Wattage Mode) sometimes it reads at 1.15 or 1.16 or 1.17 and when I push the fire button the ohms jump from 1.15-1.19. On my ohm meter it reads 1.26. Keep a note that I didnt have any ohms jump on my Sigelei its always 1.2. So I am sure that the screws are tighten plus the connection on the spring loaded pin is good.

Is this normal or I have a defective hb dna 40?

Also using temp control with a Subtank mini plus nickel coils(0.15ohms) the rest resistance reading some times its 0.13 or 0.14 or 0.15 or 0.16. Is this normal? I am changing places which might have temperature impact?
Also if my rest resistance is 0.14 and I vape it for 1-2 hours and then place it on the table and come back to vape it again after half hour the ohm may jump to 0.15 or 0.16 (I dont use the atty lock)

I hope I was clear and looking for you advises and information.

Thanks
Hmmm I wasn't aware small screen dna 40s had atty lock but that aside. It's normal for the ohm reader to jump around as the atomizer is being fired in kanthal mode it's just what it does as it heats up in the posts. Comparing to the Sig 150 and HB40, the Sigelei rounds up the numbers when it reads the ohms and it doesn't refresh as it does for the dna 40 chips. Since the HB40 reads the ohms to the hundredths is why you see it jumping around where as the Sigelei will stay flat 1.2 ohms. Now onto the TC with you ni200 coils on the subtank that's a give or take as my GCT coils would move around a bit more then an atomizer with my own made coils. Try it with an RDA and a coil you made yourself and if it jumps around that frequently in TC mode it will be its common grounding issue.

So with that being said if its still jumping around all you have to do is open up the right side plastic cover a bit so as to not split the seal. Once open use a Philips head screw driver and tighten down the screw closest to the atomizer as some have reported it being loose. Also for reference or any other help feel free to post your questions or such in here:
Hcigar HB DNA 40 anticipation thread | E-Cigarette Forum
Contains all the information one might need on a suspected problem, good luck!
 
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Shigura

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Thanks a lot for the info!! I have checked already the screw and its tighten!

Thanks again for the info!!


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Of course! Unfortunately my HB40 is all I have left right now and she's a workin just fine! Any who let us know if the issue is still there in TC mode and if you post it in the thread I put out for you should get more visibility of the case, vape on :vapor:
 

Shigura

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Honestly if your insides look like this is really no need to
 

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Shigura

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If you take the washer off your ground screw you will get a much better ground connection IME.
Adding to this, I would agree the washer being unnecessary. But however they tweaked their insides abit plus adding that solder point made it much more stable then the version before it. It read my attys identically to my rDNA40 despite being the small screen chip.
 

fugitiv3

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Aug 30, 2014
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Then everything should be fine for you. That was a picture I took of mine and someone pointed out the problem child they were discussing. But I can tell you I've had absolutely no issues with mine and still intact.
So you got the same results like mine i mentioned on the first post?

For example i woke up now and went to vape my subtank mini and yesterday night the ohms were 0.14....and now its 0.16 so what this means?


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Shigura

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So you got the same results like mine i mentioned on the first post?

For example i woke up now and went to vape my subtank mini and yesterday night the ohms were 0.14....and now its 0.16 so what this means?


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When I used my GCT coils (ni200) in my VCT Mega it would jump around slightly when in use from time to time. So personally I wouldn't base any problems from using premade ni200 coils anyways. I'm sure the pack of Atlantis ni200 coils I recently received from Vaporshark would do the same. However whenever I use my RDAs it won't jump at all or maybe go up .01 ohm within a week or so. Been vaping on my HB40 exclusively the past few days as I had to send my VS rDNA40 in for repair and its clone finally took a crap as well lol..... sigh... :cry:

On an added note.... I absolutely hate my GCT coils so most likely my pack are/were defective from the get go. Nothing but problems with them, constantly flooding and wick life was utterly atrocious. Still though I trucked on and have 2 coils left, probably going to toss them out and bench the VCT Mega tank I have been using. Had one VCT coil left and that worked perfectly fine as opposed to its cousin coil.
 
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fugitiv3

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Aug 30, 2014
29
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Cyprus
When I used my GCT coils (ni200) in my VCT Mega it would jump around slightly when in use from time to time. So personally I wouldn't base any problems from using premade ni200 coils anyways. I'm sure the pack of Atlantis ni200 coils I recently received from Vaporshark would do the same. However whenever I use my RDAs it won't jump at all or maybe go up .01 ohm within a week or so. Been vaping on my HB40 exclusively the past few days as I had to send my VS rDNA40 in for repair and its clone finally took a crap as well lol..... sigh... :cry:
Heheh thanks mate!


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lipadj46

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I was having similar problems with ohms jumping up and in my case it was always the ground. If I shifted that washer around and tightened down the screw the ohms would read different. I removed the washer and now the resistance never changes and agrees with my vaporshark. This is with a dripper, a kayfun lite and with .3 ohm NI200 nautilus coils.
 

Shigura

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I was having similar problems with ohms jumping up and in my case it was always the ground. If I shifted that washer around and tightened down the screw the ohms would read different. I removed the washer and now the resistance never changes and agrees with my vaporshark. This is with a dripper, a kayfun lite and with .3 ohm NI200 nautilus coils.
Awhile back I decided to open her up again and check to see if I needed to tighten the screw as most had to. But to my discovery that screw was already super tight to begin with. Which led me to believe that after hearing their numerous grounding failures that they did rework the internals. So when I received mine from VaporDNA my magnets were re-glued in, the grounding wire had been soldered on instead of "hooked" on from early models. Plus as I mentioned before my screw was far from loose at all.
 

fugitiv3

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Aug 30, 2014
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Cyprus
I was having similar problems with ohms jumping up and in my case it was always the ground. If I shifted that washer around and tightened down the screw the ohms would read different. I removed the washer and now the resistance never changes and agrees with my vaporshark. This is with a dripper, a kayfun lite and with .3 ohm NI200 nautilus coils.
bb316f08d862fac4d17a749758e0f6c5.jpg


This how mine looks like! And the screw is super tight.


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Shigura

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Ah see there we go, lends credence to what I said about fixing their shoddy grounding. Looks to me the raised the platform the grounding screw was on and replaced with a copper screw. As far as I can tell there isn't even a washer at all. But but but but that seal bro, you peeled it too far back :facepalm: oh dear.
 

fugitiv3

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Aug 30, 2014
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Cyprus
Ah see there we go, lends credence to what I said about fixing their shoddy grounding. Looks to me the raised the platform the grounding screw was on and replaced with a copper screw. As far as I can tell there isn't even a washer at all. But but but but that seal bro, you peeled it too far back :facepalm: oh dear.
Lol no worries i know i screwed up my warranty! So everything is good with grounding on my side i guess! I have been vaping (subtank mini with nickel pre made coil) until now and my resistance is at 0.14! No jumps until now!


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Shigura

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Lol no worries i know i screwed up my warranty! So everything is good with grounding on my side i guess! I have been vaping (subtank mini with nickel pre made coil) until now and my resistance is at 0.14! No jumps until now!
Everything should be fine for you and taking from me even though my screw is different from yours but with everything else the same should be all good in the hood to be in use.
 
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