HCigar Nemisis clone questions

[J Teezy]

I'm looking into getting my first mechanical mod. I started with a ego spinner and then got an Innokin SVD. Looking at getting a Nemisis clone particularly the HCigar one. Have a couple of questions.

From what I have seen most people who use a mechanical use a rebuildable tank on them. I have not stepped into the rebuildables yet and just use clearomizers. The tanks I have used are the innokin 30s and the iclear 16's, Aspire ce5 and Nautilus. My go to tank is the Nautilus for my main juice and then I have a couple of iclear 16's that i put other flavors in. Will these kind of tanks work well on a mechanical mod like the Nemisis?

thank you in advance for the help

 

[ions]

A mech will only vape @ 4.2 @ a full charge and you should take it out and charge around 3.7-3.2 volts (unless you kick it) so if you use a tank or clearomizer you need to make sure your using low ohm coils (1.5 up to around 2.0 ohm for premade heads) but they will work given proper airflow.

Your SVD however will work great with anything you put on it (above 1.2 ohm) cause its fully adjustable to whatever you wanna use (above 1.2 ohm)

 

[Credo]

Yes, your existing tanks will work well.

You'll loosen the positive contact pin inside the Mod, flush mount the tank (flush mount is optional), and then tighten the pin to the tank.

The Nemisis style adds adjustable air flow for tanks, cartos, and atties that get their air through the 510 connector itself. This works by aligning up to two air holes (or partial air holes) in the side of the mod's top most ring.

Be careful to use Safe Chemistry IMR or Hybrid High Drain batteries. Do not let them discharge below 3.0 to 3.5ish volts before recharging. (avoid battery over-drain)

If you want the Nemisis to be regulated consider adding a Kick or Crown. The Nemisis style mod comes with all the required extension rings to Kick or Crown 18650, 18500, 18490, or 18350 sized 3.7v IMR high drain batteries. Such a regulator will give you steady output while providing short circuit, thermal, and over-drain battery protection.

 

[J Teezy]

What is considered low ohm? Heads I use in my nautilus and I clears range from 1.6 to 2.1

The batteries I have are button top AW IMR 18650 and 18350 batteries

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[markaricavp]

What is considered low ohm? Heads I use in my nautilus and I clears range from 1.6 to 2.1

The batteries I have are button top AW IMR 18650 and 18350 batteries

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Personally I'd call low ohms to be anything under 0.8 ohms, which is probably the lowest you'd want to go with a recommended 18350 battery. Even 0.8 is close to reaching to its limits I think, and wouldn't recommend it if you don't know what you're doing. A 1.2 build (or your 1.6 ohm) would be fine with your 18350 -18650.

I have the two-tone Nemesis clone that came in the mail a couple days ago and I either use my sub-ohm RDA with a 30A Sony 18650 or a Kanger Aerotank (@ 2.0 ohms) with either the 18650 or 18350. I like the 18350 because of how small it is and it just looks nice with it. But anyways, before the Aerotank, I've used the Protank 1 like for when I travel.

I've used my RDA on an iTaste MVP, but built to be able to work, which I believe was about 1.8 ohms. Don't put on an atty a battery can't handle.

I also use the VapeSafe fuse which should be able to fit in your Nemesis clone (it does with mine). It doesn't cost much.

Personally, I like to use tanks on VV/VW. Like what ions said, with a mechanical, you vape around 3.7 volts, whereas with a VV like my MVP I use the Aerotank at 5V.

 

[Pegasus1337]

I'm have a feeling the veterans will either love what I'm about to say or hate it to death.

The problem with vaping is that there is no real educator on this topic. Too many opinions because vaping is relatively new so many people can't agree to the same standards. Lots of people like to talk but not everyone is gifted in teaching in the sense of explaining things step by step. Most people just tell you to buy an MVP and go away.

First you have to know the difference between all the mods out there and what are the groups.

There is THE CHINA VV! vamo, zmax, sid, SVD. All these items run on a pulse width modulation chip commonly known as the 33 chip.
The upgrade of this is the Provari which runs on the 66 chip.
Then there is the DNA 20.
Then we have Mechanicals.

What is the point of this list? ONE MORE CONSISTANT OF A FIRE THAN THE NEXT.
What does that do? The hit is smoother.

Your tanks on the provari will hit smoother than on your SVD. not insanely smoother, but smoother.

Next you have to know that Basic Tanks like the protanks, evods, cartomizers, the noob tanks. I clear 30. Vivi Novas.
They all range in coil head from 1.8 to 2.5 (1.5-1.6 is rare)
The problem is that they all have small chambers, or small chimneys. no matter how you open up the air flow in them its internals are too small and therefore anything of lower resistance OR anything firing hotter. Will easily taste burnt.

unlike a genesis or a dripper where the coil and wick is built on an open deck.

unlike tank SYSTEMS! not to be confused with normal tanks. Like a Fogger, Taifun, Kayfun, Aqua.
These are advanced concepts of what protanks are and have much larger and complicated internals.

Therefore Larger internals allows for larger wicks and coils to produce more intense vaping experiences.

Vaping on your SVD you can tune up to 15 watts. However vaping on a mechanical device depending on the coil you built you can vape @ over 80 watts.

Ohms is alot like the reverse of racing cars. After a car passes the low 10 sec 1/4 mile drag mark. You need WAY more horsepower and torque to knock off another second on the track. as opposed to getting a car to go from 16 secs to 15 seconds.

So 1.8 - 2.5 ohm is not very far from each other. but 0.3ohm to .15ohm is worlds upon worlds apart.
Mechanical Mods have no adjustments so you the lower the coil you build the harder it hits.

Getting a kick makes no sence because you already have an SVD. and kicks don't fire anything lower than 1.2ohms
You could put your glassomizer on the nemesis, but the only benefit is that it will hit smoother than your SVD but it won't hit as hard because your ohm setting is where the SVD can adjust further.

All innokin items can fire no lower than .8ohms and from there you can't fire a coil without using a mechanical.
Coils at this range fire at wattages higher than your SVD. Use Ohm's Law Calculator to get the exact figure.

Your current AW batteries are good for anything higher than .5 ohms don't go any hotter without upgrading those batteries.

In short, If you build coils higher than 1.8 there no point in getting rebuildables
If you build coils around 1ohm to 1.6 ohms. Your SVD can fire those BETTER than a nemsis with a kick. so why buy a mech?
Get the mech mod when you're ready to experiment with all sorts of devices and coils.

Don't walk around with an Iclear on a nemesis. it makes no sense. why? because its not an optimal setup.

 

[dice57]

The Nemesis clone by Hcigar is an excellent mech choice. I would highly recommend the Evolv Kick 2 over any other. It accepts builds of .5-3.3 ohms, can crank it up to 15 watts, has better power management, and has 2 grounding posts for better connectivity, eliminating miss-fires common with the original. Gives you all the protection of a regulated mod, and provides excellent consistent vape. Also with accepting .5 ohm builds, it's a great device for learning sub ohm builds, once you start rba's or rda's, if that is your inclination. I use the kick on builds over .8 ohms and max it at 15 watts, and simply love it. The Nemi can use the kick in all 18000's batter mode, which is one of the reasons I chose the Nemesis clone as my first mech. Recommend getting the Magnetic switch upgrade for it too. FatDaddyVapes has the magnet switch and the extended contact pins for the nemi and most all other mechanicals, for a great price, super fast shipping too!!

 

[BecknCO]

I'm glad I found this thread as I have the exact same noob questions. I'm only less than 2 months into vaping, and only have clearos and a sigelei zmax, and itaste vv3. I found that the best juices I like so far are really coil gunking NETs and this in turn has me looking at my first RBA and mech in the next couple of weeks. The process to learn what to buy, what to look for, and the safety involved is daunting to say the least - Even with this wonderful ECF resource

So far, it seems like a nemesis clone from Hcigar would be a good bet (although I'm a little put off by the fact that I apparently couldn't sell in in the classifieds down the road). What other mechanicals should be considered in the sub $70 range? I don't plan to make crazy cloud making sub ohm coils - maybe something in the .8-1.2ohm range would be fine to start -- so which noob RBA is best? (maybe dripper to start with that) I'm much more interested in tasting my juices better and their nuances rather than making big clouds.

 

[Credo]

I'm glad I found this thread as I have the exact same noob questions. I'm only less than 2 months into vaping, and only have clearos and a sigelei zmax, and itaste vv3. I found that the best juices I like so far are really coil gunking NETs and this in turn has me looking at my first RBA and mech in the next couple of weeks. The process to learn what to buy, what to look for, and the safety involved is daunting to say the least - Even with this wonderful ECF resource

So far, it seems like a nemesis clone from Hcigar would be a good bet (although I'm a little put off by the fact that I apparently couldn't sell in in the classifieds down the road). What other mechanicals should be considered in the sub $70 range? I don't plan to make crazy cloud making sub ohm coils - maybe something in the .8-1.2ohm range would be fine to start -- so which noob RBA is best? (maybe dripper to start with that) I'm much more interested in tasting my juices better and their nuances rather than making big clouds.

I'm blown away with the KayFun style rebuildable tanks. Super easy single coil build that's easy on battery drain and relatively easy eliquid consumption. Dripper class flavor, fully adjustable air flow to match your draw type, and even with only a single micro-coil on cotton @ 2 Ohm from 5 to 8 watts...I'm getting excellent vapor production.

In my experience, unless you're doing multiple coil stuff, you won't need to drop below .8 Ohms. If you kick it...you can just do coils from 2 - 3 Ohms and do fine adjustments 'on the spot'.

 

[BecknCO]

I had heard these were better than the genesis style - so thanks for that -- without hijacking this thread too much --- what one is smaller (smaller tank size AND is less than say $50)?

 

[Credo]

I had heard these were better than the genesis style - so thanks for that -- without hijacking this thread too much --- what one is smaller (smaller tank size AND is less than say $50)?

Along side the pair of KayFun clones I own:
I still use several el-cheapo Vivi Nova 2.5 tanks.
I wind the heads myself. For some I do 2.5 - 3 Ohm on cotton, for others I do 2.5 - 3 Ohms on a silica/mesh hybrid wick. It takes me about 10 minutes to wind 8 heads.
On a Nemisis style mod...I get adjustable air flow with them.
I do use Kicks and Crowns, so I can fine tune them as they season and age.
I do up the nic a little on these.
The trick with the top coil stuff is LOW WATTAGE.

You can also make your own coils for alot of the bottom coil stuff (ProTanks).

It's definitely possible to get a fine vape from the stuff that you probably already have

 

[BecknCO]

I hear you on that, but I really want to try at least an RDA if I get the nemesis ( I was thinking the IGO W4 or patriot clone with the Hcigar nemesis). Are there any other mechs we should consider in the same price range as the nemesis clone?

 

[Pegasus1337]

The Nemesis clone by Hcigar is an excellent mech choice. I would highly recommend the Evolv Kick 2 over any other.

I really want to hear this one. (I hope you don't mind I challenge you on this one)
Clearly you're a Kick Fan, and I'm not a kick Fan.
Make me one, Make me a believer of the Kick because I don't see the point to it.

Don't get me wrong, I own a kick. The first time I used it I thought it was fun, and it stopped there.
#1 The kick makes my mod pointlessly big.
The whole point of going from variable devices to mechanical is that I'm going to tune my vape according to the coil I built.
If I want to go lower, I can either use a thicker gauge wire or simply go less wraps to fine tune what I want my resistance to be.

#2 If I wanted to vape on a regulated device I wouldn't have gone to a mechanical. I could simply build 1.2 ohm coils and use a DNA 20 and push to 20 watts.

#3 You mentioned that you build coils @ .8ohm and crank it to 15 watts. The resistance of 4 volts of 1 ohm and 3.7 volts of .9 ohm are both naturally pumping 15 watts. All builds pumping less than 5 amps. True although vaping "regulated" will help to extend the life of a battery.

A panasonic battery at 6.8 amps with 3400mah will support this build no problem and with 3400 mah I really could care less because this battery will be back home on my charger way before I could even get half way through.

#4 Although the kick2 can handle down to half an ohm. But its max firing is 15 watts. That makes what I built fire WEAKER than without the kick. Why would I do that? Why would anyone intentionally build so low just so that they can fire it back up to where its higher?

In short. If I wanted to vape at 5-15 watts I would have built my mechanical to exactly that with the correct gauge and wraps of wires.

If you want to vape regulated why not just stick with the SVD and you can vape anything .8ohm or higher from 3-15 watts

If you want a smoother vape and take it further then why not get a DNA 20 mod and crank it to 20 watts?

Buying a REAL regulated devices also give you a free ohm's resistance checker.

Mechanical Mods can crank to over 80 watts of power. Why would you regulate it?
I find this as absurd as adding a silencer to an RPG.

So seriously. Help me understand why the Kick2 is SO GOOD and not just another gimmick like the protank 3.
The kick2 is 45.00 sir. You're telling people to buy something that costs more than the SVD that does LESS than the SVD.

 

[Credo]

In short, If you build coils higher than 1.8 there no point in getting rebuildables
If you build coils around 1ohm to 1.6 ohms. Your SVD can fire those BETTER than a nemsis with a kick. so why buy a mech?
Get the mech mod when you're ready to experiment with all sorts of devices and coils.

A good bit of outdated info.

1. The genuine Evolv Kick 2 can take atties down to 0.5 Ohms; however, unless you're running multiple coil stuff, it would probably be counter productive to sub-ohm with a Kick. So...for single coil stuff and a Kick, to get the most out of Variable Wattage (the true full bucked or boosted 5 - 15 watts)...then you'd want a coil @ around 2.5 Ohms. No need to go lower than 2 Ohms on a single coil build unless you know you want over 10 watts on the coil and think it might give a little more battery life between charges. In either scenario (sub ohm, or regular), you still get the short circuit, thermal, and over-drain protection.

2. The DC signal of the Evolv Kick 2 is excellent. It's one of the best vaping battery regulators in the entire industry (definitely the current best in its class). These are NOT PWM units like the SVD. With a Kick 2...you're basically getting a DNA 15 without a screen. The power signal is rock solid and steady as a flat line (even as the battery gets lower and resistance varies over a draw).

3. There's no reason you can't make excellent rba/rbt builds at well above 1 Ohm. No reason at all. You don't have to be a cloud chaser making dual twisted octa-coil builds with dime sized air holes to enjoy a good RBA/RBT.
a. Good ones are quite easy to build...with parts large enough (or better designed) you can get your fingers and tools in there.
b. Better quality. Should last for years and years.
c. Aesthetics - they can look cool.
d. Adjustability - One of the best things about rba/rbt stuff is you CAN adjust it properly for anything from cloud chasing to pacifier vaping.
e. economy - stock up on coil building supplies and it's only pennies per build.

Just as an example:
The KayFun has fully adjustable air flow. You can make it 801 style tight on the draw and set it up for 4 Ohm 5v HV rigs, or open the air flow up, drop in a 0.8 Ohm micro-coil on a wad of cotton, and cloud a room with it. Or pretty much anything in-between

 

[suspectK]

A mech will only vape @ 3.7 volts (unless you kick it)

I'm surprised no one has touched this. That is incorrect. I take my battery out at 3.7volts.. An unregulated battery will go from 4.2(full) -2.7volts (lowest safe discharge point), but it is advised that you take them out before reaching 2.7 for recharging. I can tell when my battery is around 3.6-3.7volts from performance.

 

[sahsah]

What is considered low ohm? Heads I use in my nautilus and I clears range from 1.6 to 2.1

The batteries I have are button top AW IMR 18650 and 18350 batteries

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

In terms of non-RBA applications, like the clearomizers you'll be using, the range you mentioned is considered "low ohm". Also, those batteries are great, you're pretty much all ready to go, just need the mod now lol. I'm looking to get a nemesis too, I'm just torn between the real deal and the hcigar clone. If I may offer my two cents though, you should consider going with the all brass nemesis, the voltage drop on it is so insignificant it's almost non existent and a definite step up from the SS counterpart. It also just looks bad .... Happy vaping bro =]

 

[sahsah]

I'm pretty sure 2.7 volts is not a safe level to drain your batteries until, you should have stopped way before that. Pushing even AW IMR's that hard could lead to venting

 

[Credo]

So seriously. Help me understand why the Kick2 is SO GOOD and not just another gimmick like the protank 3.
The kick2 is 45.00 sir. You're telling people to buy something that costs more than the SVD that does LESS than the SVD.

It's good for someone that just wants to wind a quick coil and throw it on a device...he can adjust the power accordingly without ripping it out and starting over till it's right. Plenty of folks find a simple hand wound 2 - 3 Ohm coil (no jig used) around a few sprigs of silica or cotton leads to a gratifying vape (provided they can adjust the voltage or power some).

It's good for someone that still uses a broad range of off the shelf tanks and atties. Many folks have built up quite a box full of toppers over the months/years. It's nice to be able to just throw anything on the Mod and simply regulate the power to match up well.

It's good for battery safety. For a first mech, it can take a while to get the hang of battery sag, and when to change batteries. With a Kick you can just vape till it stops...then change batteries.

It's regulating over the full charge of the battery. Same hit from beginning to end of the charge cycle.

Unless you're building multiple coils (or doubling/twisting wire, etc) and want over 15 watts to drive them all...it removes the need to 'sub-ohm' at all. Seriously, if you're pulling more than 15 watts per coil, you can start fires in the atty (I've seen the liquid in many a 20 watt atties catch on fire while vaping). So anything over 15 watts is pretty much targeted at multiple coil cloud chasing (maybe the OP wants to chase clouds...but he asked if he could use his off the shelf tanks with a Nemisis).

If the OP doesn't want to regulate his mech, that's fine...he can read the specs and decide for himself.
It's nice to know that the drop-in regulators exist, and that they work in a Nemisis with all the standard battery lengths.

 

[maxd]

...
#2 If I wanted to vape on a regulated device I wouldn't have gone to a mechanical. I could simply build 1.2 ohm coils and use a DNA 20 and push to 20 watts.
...

pls note: there is some report(s) that on empty battery(3.4V) and like 2.2Ohms - even DNA cannot deliver 20W, max 15W

PS: not against DNA at all but worth to know

 

[dice57]

I really want to hear this one. (I hope you don't mind I challenge you on this one)
Clearly you're a Kick Fan, and I'm not a kick Fan.
Make me one, Make me a believer of the Kick because I don't see the point to it.

Well to begin with the main focus of my post was to someone who wants to try a Mech Mod, and doesn't build their own coils, but has atomizers of much higher ohms than what most who have Mech's use. So to me it is a rock solid device to break someone in with out suffering from sub par vape using high ohms.

Don't get me wrong, I own a kick. The first time I used it I thought it was fun, and it stopped there.
#1 The kick makes my mod pointlessly big.
The whole point of going from variable devices to mechanical is that I'm going to tune my vape according to the coil I built.
If I want to go lower, I can either use a thicker gauge wire or simply go less wraps to fine tune what I want my resistance to be.

Sure one can do that, but there are atomizers that vape best at higher ohms and are not well suited for sub ohm builds, but still vape great at 15 watts in the 1.5 ohm area. And another attraction for Mech's is that most just look better than most regulated, but don't have the safeties and consistent vape as a regulated, the Kick solves that and provides a safe vape for unskilled users, but provides the tools to grow in their vape without having to buy another mod down the road.

#2 If I wanted to vape on a regulated device I wouldn't have gone to a mechanical. I could simply build 1.2 ohm coils and use a DNA 20 and push to 20 watts.

Well number one, I wasn't talking to you, I was addressing the original poster. Sure you could go and get a DNA20, but I would recommend waiting a few days because the DNA30 is coming out any day now. Also, unless you build your own DNA mod, finding and buying a DNA20 tube or box mod is going to run at least $250. But yeah a valid point, but it's been my experience that 20 watt vape is not that big of a gain over 15 watt vape and in not worth the extra investment, but that's just me.

#3 You mentioned that you build coils @ .8ohm and crank it to 15 watts. The resistance of 4 volts of 1 ohm and 3.7 volts of .9 ohm are both naturally pumping 15 watts. All builds pumping less than 5 amps. True although vaping "regulated" will help to extend the life of a battery.

Actually I said on builds over .8 ohms I will use the kick. And once you enter the voltage drop under load of your battery, you'd be lucky to get 13 watts on a one ohm build, which would quickly fall off after a few vapes. The kick will give you a great consistent vape of 15 watts down to 3.2 volts or so on the battery. So still find it useful with some of my builds, and with a normal regulated device, you couldn't get max watts out of it with a 1 ohm build because of the amp limitation on most regulated devices.

A panasonic battery at 6.8 amps with 3400mah will support this build no problem and with 3400 mah I really could care less because this battery will be back home on my charger way before I could even get half way through.

Which pani is that?

#4 Although the kick2 can handle down to half an ohm. But its max firing is 15 watts. That makes what I built fire WEAKER than without the kick. Why would I do that? Why would anyone intentionally build so low just so that they can fire it back up to where its higher?

This is very true, and I don't use a kick on my builds of .3-.5 ohms, why would I limit myself to 15 watts when I am used to 30-50 watt vaping, but again, I was addressing the OP and not you, this feature is great for the new Mech owner who doesn't build yet, but may want to in the future, by being able to handle a .5 ohm build one can get the skill set and work their way down if they choose and still have the safety features. It is one of the reasons I chose to get the Nemi and the kick when I first wanted to try Mechs. I was already proficient at micro coils, vertical builds and vaping at 15 watts on my Provari, and just wanted to work my way in slowly to mechs, but be smart about it. Still feel there is great value in the kick 2 and still use it on one of my mechs with a standard ohm build. Very happy with it.

In short. If I wanted to vape at 5-15 watts I would have built my mechanical to exactly that with the correct gauge and wraps of wires.

If you want to vape regulated why not just stick with the SVD and you can vape anything .8ohm or higher from 3-15 watts

If you want a smoother vape and take it further then why not get a DNA 20 mod and crank it to 20 watts?

Buying a REAL regulated devices also give you a free ohm's resistance checker.

Mechanical Mods can crank to over 80 watts of power. Why would you regulate it?
I find this as absurd as adding a silencer to an RPG.

So seriously. Help me understand why the Kick2 is SO GOOD and not just another gimmick like the protank 3.
The kick2 is 45.00 sir. You're telling people to buy something that costs more than the SVD that does LESS than the SVD.

Again, you miss the entire point of my recommendations. I was not speaking to you or any other advanced user, I was speaking to the OP who does not build yet, want's to learn, and others likewise. And I seriously doubt that when you first started mechs that you were rocking a .2 ohm build and that it took some time to get to that point, but I could be wrong. And as far as your SVD somparison, well one the OP was not asking about a regulated mod, and the kick 2 in a mech totally out performs the rattlesnake pulse of the SVD imo. And once one surpassed the ability of an SVD they would have to go out and then buy a mechanical anyways instead of merely removing the kick. And never did I tell anyone to buy anything, it was my recommendation to consider one and why. Most new users who go out and by a mech and just use a premade coil tank or carto, are not going to see the benefits of a mech without a kick or a crown, and my main point was that the kick 2 would be the best option for a mech for reasons stated. and $45 is not that much of an investment for regulation, safety and consistency, especially for a new Vaper. Then stack that up compared to the price of an Authentic Mech mod, DNA20 mod, Provari or Semovar Mod, the Kick 2 is quite a bargain.

Clearly if one was already building .2-.5 ohm builds I would never recommend a kick 2 or a DNA20, it would leave them dissatisfied, but that was not the context of the OP's question. I was merely expressing my recommendations to someone who is fairly new to vaping and wanted to explore Mechs. And I stand by with my recommendations.