Heat Issues with Odysseus, Penelope, and Ithaka :/

[gheebee]

After months of having no issues, it seems all of my GG rebuildables get hot (mouthpiece, base, and tank) and if I use them on a GGTS, the switch will get hot. This has been going on for about 2 months now and nothing I've read on the forums about people having similar or the same issue is really of any help. What I've gotten out of everything that I've read is to make sure that no wires are touching anything that they shouldn't, which makes sense, and, as far as I can tell, they aren't but I build over and over again with more or less the same result every time. I don't know if it matters but the coil I generally use is a single coil at around 1 – 1.2 ohms.
Anyway, I just thought I'd post this here to see if anyone had any ideas. After I did a build earlier, I held the button down for a long time in the hopes of marking where the short was and I think it worked, only what I'm seeing doesn't make sense. The wick is scorched on the side that goes inside the channel and the wire is a little black in some parts but I really don't see how this could be touching anything other than ceramic and wick.
When this is happening, the vapor is exactly where I want it to be. There is no burnt taste, throat hit is good, flavor is good, volume is high, etc... and my resistance is stable but I'm under the impression that they shouldn't be doing this and assume that maybe it is not the safest idea to use them like this but, as I said, I have no idea what is wrong. I don't even really know what other info to post here or what to ask at this point but if anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate hearing them and I will give them a try! I really tried to avoid creating this redundant thread and wanted to figure it out on my own but at this point, I don't have any more ideas.

 

[subver]

If the switch is getting hot you have a short somewhere

 

[gheebee]

Yeah, it's clean so I assume there is; the problem is that I can't figure out where or why I have a short.

 

[Aal_]

What NR wire are you using?

 

[gheebee]

Sometimes I'll use 30 gauge silver (when I use K30 for R) and others I'll use 32 gauge Nickel (when I use K32 for R). The issue seems to happen with the same frequency using either though, it was actually this issue that got me to try it with the 30 gauge silver + K30.

EDIT: In the picture, I am using 32 gauge Nickel.

 

[Shaketuga]

Did you switch Battery Brands? Or are your batteries old? My AWs get hot but my Panasonics stay nice N cool unless chain vaping try a different batt and see if that helps.


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[Shaketuga]

Sorry I should have stated that my AWs are old and my panasonics are new


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[gheebee]

Well, I was due for new AW IMRs so I just went and completed the order I'd been considering. I'll let you know how it goes. I've actually never heard of this as a cause of this and my batteries themselves don't get hot (A few times when I was getting heat, I went and held the button down for a bit to build up more heat and then took the battery out as fast as I could to see how it felt) but at the very least I've now got the new batteries I've been wanting.
In the mean time, if anyone has any other ideas, I'm all ears.

Thanks to those who have replied so far!

 

[Shaketuga]

I hope this helps. Because with new coils and clean connections I can't think of anything else that could cause resistance in a gg device hmmmmmm


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[Shaketuga]

Because I know batteries have internal resistance which needs to be taken into account especially when sub ohm vaping


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[Shaketuga]

But at 1.2ohm i really can't see how it would create an issue unless your batts are shot


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[Shaketuga]

Do you have a different mod you can pop em in and try em out?


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[Shaketuga]

Even my panasonics have a resistance of 102.8nS which is dang near un-measurable but as the batteries get older this will rise.


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[Shaketuga]

Anyways I digress I hope this helps


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[gheebee]

Now that you mention other mods, I should have mentioned that I use the same batteries and atomizers on 2 other mechanical mods with the same results as far as the atomizer heating up goes, but not the switches. Been using Penelope on an Origin for a little bit since before and just the atomizer heats up. I figure it's something I'm doing with the build but just can't figure out what the heck it is...

 

[Killjoy1]

This probably isn't it, but worth a look. check the insulator underneath the ceramic housing (remove your center pin, it's the little black plastic ring directly underneath the ceramic housing). Perhaps you're getting an occasional momentary short because that is worn or disfigured?

 

[Shaketuga]

This probably isn't it, but worth a look. check the insulator underneath the ceramic housing (remove your center pin, it's the little black plastic ring directly underneath the ceramic housing). Perhaps you're getting an occasional momentary short because that is worn or disfigured?

Ahh yeah I didn't even think about the insulator good call.


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[Shaketuga]

Now that you mention other mods, I should have mentioned that I use the same batteries and atomizers on 2 other mechanical mods with the same results as far as the atomizer heating up goes, but not the switches. Been using Penelope on an Origin for a little bit since before and just the atomizer heats up. I figure it's something I'm doing with the build but just can't figure out what the heck it is...

Dang me either I've been racking my brain all afternoon and yeah the reason I asked about a different mod is because I use a Sigelei 8w with my Ithaka (until Just GG gets released) and I don't have a problem with the switch heating at all.


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[Shaketuga]

One thing I have considered is maybe your no res has some slightly resistive materiel in it or on it such as machine oil or oil from fingers I use rubber gloves when wrapping my coils...just an after thought


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[gheebee]

This probably isn't it, but worth a look. check the insulator underneath the ceramic housing (remove your center pin, it's the little black plastic ring directly underneath the ceramic housing). Perhaps you're getting an occasional momentary short because that is worn or disfigured?

I recently completely took apart Odysseus and Penelope and didn't notice anything with the insulator but I will be rebuilding at least one of these later on so I will have another look and compare them to brand new ones just to be sure. They looked OK to me but who knows, maybe I will think differently after comparing to a new one.
I keep thinking about all the possible ways there are to short this thing and, on a somewhat related note, I keep thinking that maybe the center post is coming into contact with the botton of the ceramic housing. The delrin insulator is there and I know the hole in the ceramic is smaller than the hole in the housing to prevent this but I keep thinking maybe it is off center enough to cause a problem or something. That was actually part of the reason I took them completely apart but carefully putting it back together made no difference. Kind of want to try wrapping the part of the center post that goes into the ceramic/ceramic housing in plumbers/silicone tape but I'm not sure how wise it is to use something like this in an atomizer.