Heavenly Army Motor Vehicle Pool

[73ckn797]

Hi all.

It was suggested that with my career and experience in automotive repair, that a thread dealing with auto related things be started. So, here we go.

The thread title is fitting with the larger sub-forum name.

My experience is as follows: 20 years as an import mechanic. 14 with Volkswagen and the rest between Toyota, Mazda and a little with Datsun/Nissan. The past 17 years I have been an independant sub-contractor performing mechanical break down verification inspections for automotive extended warranty companies.

I have been an ASE Certified Master Auto Technician and VW Master Registered Technician.

In this line of work you can never say you have seen it all. With each product changing nearly every year, the issues that arise can change every year. The more the technology changes, the easier it is to stop up the drain, in a manner of speaking.

What I hope we can accomplish here is to provide a resource where you can ask questions about your automotive needs. Hopefully between what I know and what others can contribute we can help others make decisions or give help in solving their automotive needs. The best advice will be from your local mechanic who can actually see and diagnose what your vehicle is actually doing. This thread will function more as a general guide to any remedies or advice necessary to your specific issues.

High Performance related matters may be best dealt with by those who have experience in that area. My experience was limited to VW mods (That's Volkswagen not Variable Wattage) and I was never a muscle car guy. I guess that I will be the moderator here but I will value any other input offered in making this idea work.

Let's see where this takes us.

 

[bivie]

Hiya 73. I was out slummin' and thought I'd stop in and say hi to ya

My Big Red is down. My '87 Toyota 4-Runner is now a 0-Runner <nyuck nyuck>

Been tryin' to over heat the last several months. Took it in and had it flushed and
reloaded. They couldn't find an overhearting issue.

One day I was driving it and it overheated and I had to pull over. It just died on its
own. It hadn't been overheating, just acting like it wanted to.

Shortly before this event, it started to leak oil from the valve cover gasket - just a
little bit. I wondered if that seal not being tight woulda caused the overheating.
OR - did getting hot cause the seal to loosen.

Anyway, the symptoms online all point to that seal (among other things). So, I
plan on finding someone with tools to help me put on that $25 seal.

I gotta start it sooner or later, but I don't wanna throw a rod (see this rod - means
curtains for you - it's a curtain rod <nyuck nyuck>

Oh well. Bummer. Right when I was considering taking out a loan to stock up a 40-year
supply of nic base.

 

[Bronze]

Nice credentials 73!! Glad you started this thread.

Could be very useful and an opportunity for folks to show off their mechanical pets. You do much with motorsickles? Lot's of Armyites with two-wheeled pets.

Thanks for the guidance with my fuel gauge.

Folks, 73 knows what he's talking about!!! Even if you don't know anything about motor V-hickles, just tell 73 what your issue is and he might be able to steer you in the right direction. "Steer" ... get it?

 

[73ckn797]

I have limited motorcycle experience and that only from doing HD and Suzuki extended warranty inspections. I have also inspected a bunch of Polaris ATV's. Used to inspect a lot of outboard motors for Evinrude and a few others. Feel free to throw any question to me. Can't say I will have an answer but then two heads are better than one.

 

[73ckn797]

Since I am not hands on with your vehicle I will have to ask a bunch of questions.

What is the engine size? Should be a V6 on that one. Manual or automatic transmission? What is the mileage on the vehicle? It it the original engine?

When you say it tries to overheat, what are the conditions when that is happening? Are you just tooling around locally or out on the interstate?

Have you had to add coolant on any regular basis, besides just having it serviced? When you say it quit, what were you hearing or what other symptoms were occurring? Is the cooling system full now? Are the radiator, water pump or other components the original parts on the vehicle? Does the radiator fan work? It should be a clutch type design and not electric if I recall. I was working for Toyota in 1987/88. A simple test of the fan clutch is to see if it turns freely by hand when cold. There should be resistance in it. If you can see oil staining or leaking from the front center of the hub then a new fan clutch will be needed.

As far as the valve cover gasket (VCG) leak, with a vehicle that old gaskets and seals will eventually leak. If you have not allowed it to run low on oil then internally all should be well. If it has run low the bearings will sustain damage from lack of sufficient lubrication and over heat. That condition would not show up on the temp gauge. Did/has the engine seize(d) up when it quit? You speak like you have not cranked and started the engine since.

Hiya 73. I was out slummin' and thought I'd stop in and say hi to ya

My Big Red is down. My '87 Toyota 4-Runner is now a 0-Runner <nyuck nyuck>

Been tryin' to over heat the last several months. Took it in and had it flushed and
reloaded. They couldn't find an overhearting issue.

One day I was driving it and it overheated and I had to pull over. It just died on its
own. It hadn't been overheating, just acting like it wanted to.

Shortly before this event, it started to leak oil from the valve cover gasket - just a
little bit. I wondered if that seal not being tight woulda caused the overheating.
OR - did getting hot cause the seal to loosen.

Anyway, the symptoms online all point to that seal (among other things). So, I
plan on finding someone with tools to help me put on that $25 seal.

I gotta start it sooner or later, but I don't wanna throw a rod (see this rod - means
curtains for you - it's a curtain rod <nyuck nyuck>

Oh well. Bummer. Right when I was considering taking out a loan to stock up a 40-year
supply of nic base.

 

[*RJ*]

That's very sweet of you 73! I hate car maintenance and car repair. Just last week I had to get two new tires and the front end aligned, and then the day of the storms I had battery trouble. I bought a battery since my Dad gave me a loaner until I could get a new one. Man batteries ain't cheap are they?!?!?!? And my car battery is on the driver's side with a cover over it and a bracket securing it. Just to get to the battery takes a little time. Soon I'll need two more tires. I got a notice that my car is having a recall issue with water getting in the driver's side door and messing with the electrical. Sure enough, my radio speaker goes out when it rains so it looks like I'll have to take it in for that. It's always something!

 

[Pappy]

Good thread, 73. Unfortunately, I won't be able to help. I used to wrench on my own car when I was a teenager. But that was before the days of fuel injection, oxygen sensors and computers controlling everything.

These days I don't even change my own oil anymore. Somehow I feel less manly because of that. I do work on my motorcycle, which restores my "Man Card" somewhat.

 

[73ckn797]

Many people are intimidated with the computer technology in cars. Some of it is quite overwhelming. Computers are really nothing more than fancy ground circuits. They receive signals from a variety of sensors and if what is being received is not within a programmed value range the computer switches on other processes to compensate by activating other devices. Most shade tree mechanics cannot afford the diagnostic equipment necessary to access the data being stored. A good scan-diagnostic tool can cost several hundred dollars and those are the entry level units. No manliness lost, just a whole lot of cash that is not justifiable when only being used for personal vehicles.

Good thread, 73. Unfortunately, I won't be able to help. I used to wrench on my own car when I was a teenager. But that was before the days of fuel injection, oxygen sensors and computers controlling everything.

These days I don't even change my own oil anymore. Somehow I feel less manly because of that. I do work on my motorcycle, which restores my "Man Card" somewhat.

If you have questions feel free to ask them.

 

[73ckn797]

Thanks.

Just because I can work on my own vehicles doesn't mean that I don't have to deal with the same issues. I have setup an account with a local parts store so that I pay what any shop would pay for parts. When I do a side job for someone I only require they pay for the parts at my cost. No mark-up at all. Many parts I only save a few dollars on. Those are usually the fast moving items that are priced to be competitive. I do better with oil & filter specials than what I might save at my price.

That's very sweet of you 73! I hate car maintenance and car repair. Just last week I had to get two new tires and the front end aligned, and then the day of the storms I had battery trouble. I bought a battery since my Dad gave me a loaner until I could get a new one. Man batteries ain't cheap are they?!?!?!? And my car battery is on the driver's side with a cover over it and a bracket securing it. Just to get to the battery takes a little time. Soon I'll need two more tires. I got a notice that my car is having a recall issue with water getting in the driver's side door and messing with the electrical. Sure enough, my radio speaker goes out when it rains so it looks like I'll have to take it in for that. It's always something!

 

[Bronze]

73, I told you I have a 93 Dodge Dakota (in superb condition). The only other problem I have is the wishy washy light comes on in the dashboard when I've used only an inch of fluid out of the tank. If I fill it back up, the wishy washy light goes out. Obviously, the sensor in the tank is all wiggy. Is there an easy fix for this or would I have to get a new sensor? It's hardly a bother but for those .... types it would be nice for that light/sensor to work right...especially since everything else works on the truck (except for the fuel gauge).

 

[73ckn797]

The sensor could be crudded up keeping it from reading. It looks like you would have to replace the washer tank assembly if you see no way to clean it. I find no available level sensor so you will have to replace the washer reservoir and that would be a dealer only part. That usually translates into expensive.

You could just unplug the sensor. If the light then stays on jump the harness connection to keep the light out.

BTW, the fuel pump and level assembly are one assembly. O'Reilly shows it costs about $160.

 

[Bronze]

The sensor could be crudded up keeping it from reading. It looks like you would have to replace the washer tank assembly if you see no way to clean it. I find no available level sensor so you will have to replace the washer reservoir and that would be a dealer only part. That usually translates into expensive.

You could just unplug the sensor. If the light then stays on jump the harness connection to keep the light out.

BTW, the fuel pump and level assembly are one assembly. O'Reilly shows it costs about $160.

Thanks Doc. I'll do that and report back with my results.

 

[*RJ*]

So you worked on VWs 73...my very first car was a VW bug. Dad used to work on VWs a lot. I got it when I was 14 and it was green and clutchless. Dad said they only made a few clutchless bugs. I was hell on wheels for sure...I wore that thing out!

And a story...So my left back blinker was blinking really fast which I googled and found that it's either a bad bulb or the connection. I have spare bulbs since I changed another one out a couple of years ago. I change the bulb and put it all back together and it still blinked fast. sigh So when I finally gave up I walked by the light and whacked it with my hand. IT WORKED! So now I try the "whack and kick" method first! (wink)

 

[bappo]

Ever since a deer ran into my little car (2006 Scion xA with 175,000 miles) my left front blinker will stop working when it is raining out or below zero. Almost impossible to reach the connectors without dismantling the front of the car so I just live with it. There is a forward facing blinker on the side mirror so I still feel safe.

73, if'n you are a Dodge kinda guy, why do Ram trucks (2001 and earlier) sometimes have to double start? i.e. when cold you have to turn the key and let it crank, turn back off and then back on again and it starts right up. If you don't it will just crank forever.

 

[73ckn797]

The bulb socket contact(s) may be dirty or corroded and need cleaning or replacing.

So you worked on VWs 73...my very first car was a VW bug. Dad used to work on VWs a lot. I got it when I was 14 and it was green and clutchless. Dad said they only made a few clutchless bugs. I was hell on wheels for sure...I wore that thing out!

And a story...So my left back blinker was blinking really fast which I googled and found that it's either a bad bulb or the connection. I have spare bulbs since I changed another one out a couple of years ago. I change the bulb and put it all back together and it still blinked fast. sigh So when I finally gave up I walked by the light and whacked it with my hand. IT WORKED! So now I try the "whack and kick" method first! (wink)

The clutchless bug was actually a hybrid of a 3 speed manual with a torque converter used in an automatic trasmission. It did have a clutch but it was pneumatically operated when you tilted the shifter lever to ground a relay.

 

[bivie]

Since I am not hands on with your vehicle I will have to ask a bunch of questions...

What is the engine size? Should be a V6 on that one. Manual or automatic transmission? What is the mileage on the vehicle? It it the original engine?

4 cyl manual no turbo 175,000 original engine

When you say it tries to overheat, what are the conditions when that is happening? Are you just tooling around locally or out on the interstate?

It's after it has been running a while. I have a drive that is 50 miles, and by the time I get there it is pushing the limits of the temperature gauge, but not going all the way into boiling over/red lining/tilt. The drive is mostly at 60-65 miles and hour - country road, a few stop signs, then interstate. Over time, about the time I first started seeing oil leaking from the valve cover gasket, it started only taking 8-10 miles for it to start balking.

Have you had to add coolant on any regular basis, besides just having it serviced?

I checked it regulary, and surprisingly, it never needed more coolant.

When you say it quit, what were you hearing or what other symptoms were occurring?

It went full tilt into over heat, then loss of power, then stall. Then tow.

Is the cooling system full now?

Yes, it didn't lose water or blow a hose. I have a runoff tank. Cannot detect oil in the water nor water in the oil. There might be a farmer in the dell, though.

Are the radiator, water pump or other components the original parts on the vehicle?

I don't know. It's an '87 - I'm probably the second owner. I can't remember if I ever had to replace those items. I only put 5000 miles per year on it, so I've never had to do a lot of work.

Does the radiator fan work?

Yes. I was told by a mechanic the clutch was a little loose and could use tightening.

I was working for Toyota in 1987/88. A simple test of the fan clutch is to see if it turns freely by hand when cold. There should be resistance in it. If you can see oil staining or leaking from the front center of the hub then a new fan clutch will be needed.

Huh? Is that right next to where you put in turn signal fluid?

As far as the valve cover gasket (VCG) leak, with a vehicle that old gaskets and seals will eventually leak. If you have not allowed it to run low on oil then internally all should be well.

No low oil to be concerned with. Once in a while, a little top off. A while back, it did get a little lower than usual, but it wasn't seeming like it was an issue. Maybe it was - I dunno about the bearing thing.

Did the engine sieze up when it quit?

No, it did not. I have not cranked it. The battery is dead now, and I didn't want to start it until I knew what was going to be done to it. I don't want to throw a rod or something. Thanks for going over this with me.

 

[73ckn797]

I am not a Dodge guy. The symptom you describe could be a fuel pump not holding any residual pressure to the fuel injectors. The double start you mention may be just that the pump is not producing enough volume or pressure initially. A fuel pressure gauge would have to be connected to see what the pressure is. Does this condition occur first thing in the morning or after sitting several hours? Look at this: Truck hard to start... - DodgeForum.com Google is our friend.

Ever since a deer ran into my little car (2006 Scion xA with 175,000 miles) my left front blinker will stop working when it is raining out or below zero. Almost impossible to reach the connectors without dismantling the front of the car so I just live with it. There is a forward facing blinker on the side mirror so I still feel safe.

73, if'n you are a Dodge kinda guy, why do Ram trucks (2001 and earlier) sometimes have to double start? i.e. when cold you have to turn the key and let it crank, turn back off and then back on again and it starts right up. If you don't it will just crank forever.

 

[73ckn797]

I have never heard of tightening a fan clutch. I don't know if a fan clutch can be tightened unless it is coming unscrewed from the water pump shaft. If the clucth hub is securely attached but the entire assembly and shaft into the water pump is loose, the water pump is worn out. You may need to replace the fan clutch and that could solve the whole problem, based on what you are telling me.

If the fan clutch is not functioning properly then the over heat symptoms you descibe could be caused by the fan clutch.

O'reilly Auto Parts has this: Hayden 2554 - Thermal Fan Clutch | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Information: http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-clutch-fan-works

Does the radiator fan work?

Yes. I was told by a mechanic the clutch was a little loose and could use tightening.

It is on the lead side of the trailing left tri-radial rod arm configurable angle shaft.

Huh? Is that right next to where you put in turn signal fluid?

I would not worry then.

As far as the valve cover gasket (VCG) leak, with a vehicle that old gaskets and seals will eventually leak. If you have not allowed it to run low on oil then internally all should be well.

No low oil to be concerned with. Once in a while, a little top off. A while back, it did get a little lower than usual, but it wasn't seeming like it was an issue. Maybe it was - I dunno about the bearing thing.

 

[bivie]

I have never heard of tightening a fan clutch.

I don't know anything about it. The mechanic might have been talking about the fan or the belt
or something? He said it had a little play in it?

It is on the lead side of the trailing left tri-radial rod arm configurable angle shaft.

I knew that.

Thanks for the info. I need to find someone who has tools who can help me now.

 

[73ckn797]

You're welcome. It is only around 800 miles to drive over here. I have plenty of tools.

Thanks for the info. I need to find someone who has tools who can help me now.

Really may need only a couple of 7/8" to 9/16 sockets and wrenches and sockets. 10-14mm metric. The part picture shows 4 bolts holding the clutch to the water pump and 4 holding the fan to the clutch.