Thank you for taking the time to check out my post. I recently upgraded from an SVD/iClear30 to a Nemesis clone/Kraken clone (both from eBay but overall decent quality), and am having some trouble with the white center post insulator. It looks like it starting to melt. I'm using dual coil set-up with SS mesh (350), 28g kanthal, and a Sony V4. It comes out to about .7-.8 Ohms. Nothing too extreme. I also noticed am I not getting the vapor production I was expecting (but the flavor is definitely there). Any advice on what to do? Can I go to Ace Hardware and buy a Delrin replacement insulator? I know that someone here will know. Also, how can I get more vapor production? I'm not looking to enter any cloud contests, I just want a bit more satisfying vaping experience. I'm using 50/50 PG/VG blend and would like to stick with that if at all possible. I've heard increasing the VG produces more vapor but that it doesn't wick as well. Any thoughts?
Hello, all. I need advice about a melting center post insulator on a Kraken clone.
- Thread starter legman
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I can probably kill a few birds with one, educated guess, stone. First, gennys have a learning curve. If this is your first go round... don't be discouraged, don't give up. A good running genny is hard to beat.
The mesh wick set-up, even though not deep sub-Ω, may not have sufficient wicking action (capillary action) to keep up with your duals. This condition can cause both the overheating of the post insulator and the less than anticipated vapor production.
The pos. post is a press fit, and can be tapped or pressed out with what ever you have on hand. Insulators vary a bit. After you get yours out, you may be able to manufacture a new one(s) from a bit of delrin bar stock... or commender something that will work from what ever spare parts you have.
Saying that... unless you have an internal short or a leak, I'd not be overly concerned about a bit of melting. It happens.
Last bit. Try...
> Switch to straight cotton, SS rope with a (torched) Ekowool sleeve, or ceramic rod... to improve wicking action, promote cooler running and a vapor bump.
> Go up on resistance and keep trying to make the mesh work.
> If you don't have the air wide open, do it... again, to improve cooling and vapor production.
The mesh wick set-up, even though not deep sub-Ω, may not have sufficient wicking action (capillary action) to keep up with your duals. This condition can cause both the overheating of the post insulator and the less than anticipated vapor production.
The pos. post is a press fit, and can be tapped or pressed out with what ever you have on hand. Insulators vary a bit. After you get yours out, you may be able to manufacture a new one(s) from a bit of delrin bar stock... or commender something that will work from what ever spare parts you have.
Saying that... unless you have an internal short or a leak, I'd not be overly concerned about a bit of melting. It happens.
Last bit. Try...
> Switch to straight cotton, SS rope with a (torched) Ekowool sleeve, or ceramic rod... to improve wicking action, promote cooler running and a vapor bump.
> Go up on resistance and keep trying to make the mesh work.
> If you don't have the air wide open, do it... again, to improve cooling and vapor production.
That is all excellent advice and I really appreciate your help. Where do I get the ceramic? Are there any brands you know of that make exceptional ceramic wick? I think my wick holes are 2mm (or so).
At what point to I need to start worrying about the melting? The last thing I need is a venting battey...I like having hands.
At what point to I need to start worrying about the melting? The last thing I need is a venting battey...I like having hands.
You can buy both PC (fc-2000 porous ceramic) wick and rope type (XC-116 ceramic wick) from a number of on-line vendors. I don't use genesis attys anymore and the vendor I bought from no longer carries what I used.
I've not used ceramic at all in several months... so my information may be out of date, and there may be new products available. I'll leave the research to you and others who might post.
Insulator melt, which can be attributed to the quality of the insulator, your build, any number of things, is not the same as inadequate amperage for the resistance, or a shorted battery case. As long as you've done the math (see second link below) to insure adequate battery amperage continuous drain for your resistance, then I'd not be overly concerned.
In the event you don't know what I'm talking about with this last bit (and I believe you do, but it doesn't hurt either of us for me to question this)... then perhaps you should, for safety sake, park your mech until you do.
I've not used ceramic at all in several months... so my information may be out of date, and there may be new products available. I'll leave the research to you and others who might post.
Insulator melt, which can be attributed to the quality of the insulator, your build, any number of things, is not the same as inadequate amperage for the resistance, or a shorted battery case. As long as you've done the math (see second link below) to insure adequate battery amperage continuous drain for your resistance, then I'd not be overly concerned.
In the event you don't know what I'm talking about with this last bit (and I believe you do, but it doesn't hurt either of us for me to question this)... then perhaps you should, for safety sake, park your mech until you do.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
