HELP every coil i build breaks on test fire!

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Oryx

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May 13, 2013
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my steamboy storm rider clone just came in the mail today. I am new to genesis style rbas but the tutorials are simple enough. I ordered two units and both of them arent working properly. I built the coils with 28g kanthal flat wire and wrapped 5 times around ss mesh. Every time I test fire, it glows red on the wire that connects the center pin and wick then breaks apart. This also happens if I use the pulse method or oxidize the coil first.. Am I doing something wrong?
 

State O' Flux

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I didn't oxidize the mesh.. just torch it right? also, an update: If I hold the fire long enough the wick would spontaneously combust
No... a bit more to it. It's a "process", for lack of a better term. After rolling... wet with juice, torch, dip in juice puddle and allow to wick, torch again. Repeat 4-5 more times. The former is a bit of a variable... mesh size, wick diameter, lighter or torch and so on will determine repeats. Spending time now means a wick that lasts and lasts and lasts and... :)

If all this is a PITA... you can buy pre-rolled and oxidized 325 mesh wick here. Same shop sells 400 also.
 

State O' Flux

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Thanks for the link. I will order some. Gonna try to oxidize the wick first. honestly though, is it even possible that the coil breaks because the wick isnt oxidized?
Sorry I can't make it more simple and a guaranteed success. It's all trial and error. You can shorten your error time by watching 3-4 videos on wick prep.
The first two I ever did sucked on ice... the third was passable, and by the time I got to the 6th or so, I was doing OK. I'm certain there are others who make me look like a complete tool at wick making. You're going to have to do some reading and watching to sort it out.
 

Ryedan

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Thanks for the link. I will order some. Gonna try to oxidize the wick first. honestly though, is it even possible that the coil breaks because the wick isnt oxidized?

Yes. What is happening is that you are holding the power on long enough for that top coil to melt. What you want to do is pulse the power on long enough for that coil to turn red, but not too long so it melts. Pulse it on and off until the whole coil lights up, with the exception that the bottom coil will rarely be as bright as the others. If you encounter a stubborn short, nudging it a bit with a small screwdriver can help. Do not put juice in the tank until all shorts are gone and the whole coil lights up. Also don't overheat the tank.

There is a RBA forum here that has a lot of information in it. Best of luck with it :thumb:
 

mackman

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Yes. What is happening is that you are holding the power on long enough for that top coil to melt. What you want to do is pulse the power on long enough for that coil to turn red, but not too long so it melts. Pulse it on and off until the whole coil lights up, with the exception that the bottom coil will rarely be as bright as the others. If you encounter a stubborn short, nudging it a bit with a small screwdriver can help. Do not put juice in the tank until all shorts are gone and the whole coil lights up. Also don't overheat the tank.

There is a RBA forum here that has a lot of information in it. Best of luck with it :thumb:

Another thing to do is to first pulse with low volts if your unit is variable; if not try a partially discharged battery.
 

Vapeaddikt

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After oxidizing mesh and wrapping the coil, PRIOR to test firing it make sure you have a slight kink in the kanthal before the top post connection and at the bottom post connection.

Only pulse fire it for a bit to watch heat up then slowly increase pulses working out hot spots. If your not sure how to look at youtube. Tons of vids on how to work out hot spots.
 
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