Help Help with DSE 905 Wiring

Status
Not open for further replies.

mskitty

Full Member
Feb 13, 2010
39
0
Hotlanta
Hello,

I was having an issue with a dse 905 that would constantly blink when the atomizer was attached. I took the advise of the place I purchased it and took out the button blew air in and it worked until I changed the atty.

Now my light ring is off and I can see what looks like a solder bead inside the plastic of the ring, in the body of the button unit I see a red and green wire and what looks like 2 contact points. Does anyone know how to put this devil back together or take it the rest of the way apart and reassemble so that it works?

Please let me know before this becomes a plaque of a paperweight.
 

mistinthewoods

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Feb 4, 2010
4,956
1,822
66
Brooklyn, MI
If your 905 is as fine a piece of vaping equipment as mine is I suggest you unscrew the top cap, reach inside with needle nose pliers, grab anything you can find and pull it out. Then take the pieces outside and arrange them neatly in the driveway directly in line with the tires of your motor vehicle. Get in said motor vehicle and drive repeatedly back and forth over the neatly arranged parts. Re- gather parts and soak liberly with lighter fluid, gasoline or any highly volatile liquid, take two steps back, strike match and fling it in the direction of the soaked parts. problem solved.
 

West Florida Vapor

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 22, 2010
79
0
Tampa Bay, Florida
I had the same problem when I would touch the stock atty to the body it would blink 5 times and then sometimes blink 5 times followed by 16 blinks. Weird I know but I cleaned it by boiling it. Tryed it later (around an hour) and the same thing. Let it dry overnight. Tryed it the next day and it worked fine. Plus the metal flavor that was there was gone. I have a feeling the micro chip can tell with your atty is flooded or wet. Good luck and I hope this helps..

Cameron
 

karmatized

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Mar 13, 2010
408
0
New York USA
www.happysmokes.com
There really is no need to be rude tony, since you took the time to look at this video you should have looked at my other one in the how to solder thread where i try to give advice which i released around the same time period.

Also soldering is one of those things that not everyone has the experience on. You can read things for hours and not have the hand to eye practice down or know when and how long to apply heat for.

I originally filmed that video to be normal speed but it was too long according to youtube. They have a limit on how long a video can be.
It had to be sped-up to show the process from start to finish.

The majority of errors i see come from the 905 are because the top portion comes off. Epoxy looses its hold, for whatever reason. Could be a fall or whatnot.
a good fall can break the seal and disconnect the wires. Very small wires in a very tight space.

If you watch the video here is exactly what i do in order.

I show the issues and pieces involved in the repair,
I show my sp 12 wellar soldering iron, My rosin flux, and solder
a screw or toothpick and some epoxy

I dip the head of the head of the iron in flux, tin it with solder then clean off the extra solder.
I then put a tiny bit of flux on the exposed wire and the point i will be soldering to.
I then put a dash more solder on the iron and then tin the exposed wire.
I then put the iron into the top piece to burn oxidation off of the old solder joints.
I add a small bit more solder to them.
I then 1 wire at a time connect the non red one to the outer solder point, and then the red wire to the center point. As the center point is positive.
test the connection with a atomizer
prepare a piece of paper to mix epoxy onto.
Then i epoxy the crap out of it while trying not to get epoxy into the button area.
now push everything back to together nice and tight and clean it off.
Test it once more and allow to to fully dry. 6 - 48 hours.
 

tonyorion

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 8, 2010
596
347
70
Michigan
I apologize if I appeared to be rude; it was more a frustration at myself for having broken the unit in the first place and then seeing the video which appeared to be making a mokery of idiots like me who break things.In any case, this head is toast. Both wires broke off from the top piece. There appears to be barely enough of the ground wire (green) to be able to solder it to the post, but for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to solder what is left of the red wire. It is as if a 1/2" of the red just disappeared. I will make a run at one of the electronics stores to see if I can get wire that thin. It's got to be like 22-24 gauge.

Unless I can splice in some extra length of wire, there is no way I can get the soldering gun head in there. I have been looking around for new heads, but cannot find any. You appear to be out of stock.

Too bad! The DSE 905 did not perform badly. I am starting to get away from the standard non replaceable battery types (Joye 510, Ego's) as the batteries go in them. I hardly ever use my mega 510's unless I go out. The Ego's seem to fade fairly quickly, and at $25 each, much more expensive than getting protected batteries from China at $2.50-$5.00 each.

Although I have a Buzz which works fine, I seldom go over 4.2 v, and can get the same hit from a LR atty. Most of the DIY juice I vape is at 3.7 v. The higher voltage seems to work great for slow burning attys to bring the performance back up. Also, the atty quality is all over the place and some do vape better at the higher voltage.

Again, my apologies and thanks for taking the time to supply me with the details.

Tony
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread