Hey ECF,
I've been vaping for about a year now, started with the V2 kit (lol), moved on to an iTaste 3.0 VV/VW, and just lately got an iTaste SVD. The 3.0 came with 5 iClear 16's and I used them for a long time without changing the coils. Recently, I had one out of the two coils die in one of my clearos, and another one went completely dead. I ordered a pack of 5 from FT for like six bucks. However, when I was shopping I found this pack of 50 wicks+coils: $3.30 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires w/ Wicks - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 1-wick at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I figured what the hell, for ~3 bucks, I could rebuild my iClear 16's 25 times if I could actually manage to reassemble the thing.
So I took one of my old heads, and disassembled it. I fed the new wicks and coils through the head and out to the hole. I bent one end from each coil off to the side to be the negative post, and left two in the center to be the positive. I got this:
I put the center grommet through the positive leads and had the negative leads off to the side of the grommet. There is really no way to get the grommet back in place, because it sits inside the threads to the head. I can't push it in with my fingers, and using a combination of screwdrivers to jam it in seems impossible. Here's a pic without the leads:
What I ended up doing was using the center pin to secure the grommet in place by pushing the center pin through the grommet and into the hole. It looks like this (again without the leads, I took this pics after I ragequit and threw the coils away):
I trimmed all the leads as best I could, but again the threads from the head kind of get in the way, so I couldn't get it as flush as I wanted. I tried to tuck the positive lead inside the center pin with a small screwdriver and the negative leads out away from the center pin. It looked right. I plug it into the SVD to check the resistance and it reads 0.0R every time. I've tried four times. I'm going crazy. Does anyone who has successfully rebuilt an iClear have any pointers? I watch videos on the protank and I am so jealous how easy it is to rebuild.
Quick update: I tried trimming the negative lead way far back, and the result was my SVD read .9A. Does this mean I did it right, but just ordered the wrong wicks? It occurred to me that since they are parallel, the resistance would be halved. So are my options now to either only run one coil, or to order something like this: $3.87 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires w/ Wicks - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 4-wick at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping (again only using one coil) and cut two wicks off if I want to properly rebuild my iClear 16s? Is there anyway to wire the two coils in serial? Would that even work? This is my first time trying something like this as you can probably tell.
I've been vaping for about a year now, started with the V2 kit (lol), moved on to an iTaste 3.0 VV/VW, and just lately got an iTaste SVD. The 3.0 came with 5 iClear 16's and I used them for a long time without changing the coils. Recently, I had one out of the two coils die in one of my clearos, and another one went completely dead. I ordered a pack of 5 from FT for like six bucks. However, when I was shopping I found this pack of 50 wicks+coils: $3.30 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires w/ Wicks - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 1-wick at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I figured what the hell, for ~3 bucks, I could rebuild my iClear 16's 25 times if I could actually manage to reassemble the thing.
So I took one of my old heads, and disassembled it. I fed the new wicks and coils through the head and out to the hole. I bent one end from each coil off to the side to be the negative post, and left two in the center to be the positive. I got this:
I put the center grommet through the positive leads and had the negative leads off to the side of the grommet. There is really no way to get the grommet back in place, because it sits inside the threads to the head. I can't push it in with my fingers, and using a combination of screwdrivers to jam it in seems impossible. Here's a pic without the leads:
What I ended up doing was using the center pin to secure the grommet in place by pushing the center pin through the grommet and into the hole. It looks like this (again without the leads, I took this pics after I ragequit and threw the coils away):
I trimmed all the leads as best I could, but again the threads from the head kind of get in the way, so I couldn't get it as flush as I wanted. I tried to tuck the positive lead inside the center pin with a small screwdriver and the negative leads out away from the center pin. It looked right. I plug it into the SVD to check the resistance and it reads 0.0R every time. I've tried four times. I'm going crazy. Does anyone who has successfully rebuilt an iClear have any pointers? I watch videos on the protank and I am so jealous how easy it is to rebuild.
Quick update: I tried trimming the negative lead way far back, and the result was my SVD read .9A. Does this mean I did it right, but just ordered the wrong wicks? It occurred to me that since they are parallel, the resistance would be halved. So are my options now to either only run one coil, or to order something like this: $3.87 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires w/ Wicks - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 4-wick at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping (again only using one coil) and cut two wicks off if I want to properly rebuild my iClear 16s? Is there anyway to wire the two coils in serial? Would that even work? This is my first time trying something like this as you can probably tell.
