Have you tried an X wick setup? I want to try a parallel setup next, it seems like it would be fine for airflow, but everyone online seems to prefer an X setup. Do you boil your cotton yarn prior to use?
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Have you tried an X wick setup? I want to try a parallel setup next, it seems like it would be fine for airflow, but everyone online seems to prefer an X setup. Do you boil your cotton yarn prior to use?
I don't boil. There's a cotton taste for the first couple of minutes of vaping, but it's gone pretty quickly. I also try to let the cotton soak in juice for 30 minutes before vaping, but that rarely happens. I haven't done an X setup, but it should be exactly the same as others describe with silica.
Yeah, I never boil cotton for my other atties, but I had been using sterile cotton balls. Is the airflow and throat good with the parallel setup? I run a .9 ohm dual coil, which is bordering on too harsh, a little less airflow over the coils might be too much to handle.
I do 0.7 ohms dual. The Hercules draw is pretty tight to me. I've run a single coil like a Term and I haven't noticed a difference in draw or TH. The dual coil gives me warmer more saturated vape. Try building it and dripping to see if you like it before filling the tank.
Apparently there is a new shorter centre post nut for the Ithaka which seems to solve some of the gurgling issues. Wondering if anyone's tried it on the Herc and more importantly where one can buy one of these.
Pretty much about half, cut it right at the spot where the air tube ends, I cut it with a cut off wheel using a Dremel
So in essence what we're summarizing is it will gurgle almost all the time unless we cut that nut in half ? Or is it 50/50 success rate ? I think it also has to do with the coil wrap - if juice is dripping on that coil it leaves little space for air - but if the coil is double wrapped at the coils - 2 pieces of 3mm in the coils it might not gurgle since extra juice will sit in the extra piece of wick
Last night I cranked down the tank section too tight on my herc and broke the acrylic window section. Then I cried. Then i proceeded to scour the web for a replacement without any luck.
Bucky's Bargain Vaping, where i bought the hercules is out of stock.
Stormy's Vapor Cellar only has the one piece acrylic that replaces the bottom metal part of the tank as well (i think) and its out of stock.
Clouds of Vapor has the genuine ithaka sections, acrylic and SS which would, unless i am mistaken, fit the hercules. Both are out of stock.
Vapor Freak has the hercules window and it looks in stock but its expensive with shipping to the US and i can't read their website because its in german. I'd rather not pay 1/3 of the price i paid for the entire unit for a piece of plastic.
Am i missing any vendors?
Bucky's Bargain Vaping, where i bought the hercules is out of stock.
Stormy's Vapor Cellar only has the one piece acrylic that replaces the bottom metal part of the tank as well (i think) and its out of stock.
Clouds of Vapor has the genuine ithaka sections, acrylic and SS which would, unless i am mistaken, fit the hercules. Both are out of stock.
Vapor Freak has the hercules window and it looks in stock but its expensive with shipping to the US and i can't read their website because its in german. I'd rather not pay 1/3 of the price i paid for the entire unit for a piece of plastic.
Am i missing any vendors?
Vaperev - they have clear - blue - and orange
Ugg out of stock - checking a few more - will update
Edit after seeing and agreeing about the shipping prices being too high from EU vendors -
Buy a fast tech ithaka and use it for parts - it's cheaper than any of the EU vendors for just the window and shipping
However this option only works if FT has them in stock
Ugg out of stock - checking a few more - will update
Edit after seeing and agreeing about the shipping prices being too high from EU vendors -
Buy a fast tech ithaka and use it for parts - it's cheaper than any of the EU vendors for just the window and shipping
However this option only works if FT has them in stock
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Just purchased another RH from bucky's. They are down to $45!!! no reason to buy a tobeco and wait three weeks to save 8 dollars lol. Thanks for the idea.
Thanks i will add Kir Fanis to the watchlist.
Question for you guys - received the hercules today and I've never had so much confidence in the saturation of my coils . When using my terminator I was constantly looking down the MP to check for red coils and when that happened my OCD would go absolutely nuts and I had to take it apart and inspect everything
Now with basic auto feed I'm getting great vapor and flavor From my net tobaccos and of course I peaked through the MP to check for coils and no dry hot coils !!
Anyway I have it in top of an chi-you and I don't like the look of it since the chi had air control and so does this but that's not the
Point - I leave the herc air holes open and I noticed some juice coming through . It's not coming out of the 510 pin - it's coming out of the oring where the pin protrudes - for example I unscrew the body from the 510 made so all I had in hand was the mod and the GGTS connector - I gave it a
Whip and some juice leaked
Out around the gasket I guess - it's all tight in there and the Orings are lubed up with juice . Not sure where to go from there - I've heard that aside from the autofeed there is a way to place the Ceramic so that leaking goes into the collector cup and back up the wicks - but since my
Air holes are open maybe that's why I'm leaking ? Not sure
Running 2.2 ohm dual coils at 1 ohm - 2.5 on the channels and doubled up at the coils
Now with basic auto feed I'm getting great vapor and flavor From my net tobaccos and of course I peaked through the MP to check for coils and no dry hot coils !!
Anyway I have it in top of an chi-you and I don't like the look of it since the chi had air control and so does this but that's not the
Point - I leave the herc air holes open and I noticed some juice coming through . It's not coming out of the 510 pin - it's coming out of the oring where the pin protrudes - for example I unscrew the body from the 510 made so all I had in hand was the mod and the GGTS connector - I gave it a
Whip and some juice leaked
Out around the gasket I guess - it's all tight in there and the Orings are lubed up with juice . Not sure where to go from there - I've heard that aside from the autofeed there is a way to place the Ceramic so that leaking goes into the collector cup and back up the wicks - but since my
Air holes are open maybe that's why I'm leaking ? Not sure
Running 2.2 ohm dual coils at 1 ohm - 2.5 on the channels and doubled up at the coils
One suggestion, take the very bottom GGTS to 510 "adapter" piece off and look into the center hole with some light and magnification... if the rebuildable part it on too tight, it will compress and distort the o-ring, allowing juice to get past. I was actually able to see the positive wire, which is how I knew something was up with the o-ring (I should only see the black rubber of the o-ring, not non-resistance wire)
Also, the feature you talked about on real Ithaka, at least on mine, isn't present on Hercules. You're supposed to be able to turn the ceramic nut a certain way that would allow excess juice to drip back down, and be caught by the ends of the wicks, but my ceramic nut doesn't have those holes.
On the leaking Ithaka or clone, if the center pin is not reasonably centered in the ceramic housing it will distort that bottom o-ring when tightened, also lube that o-ring prior to tightening, make it tight but not over tightened.
That sucks that the feature isn't avail on the herc for the ceramic -I lubed all orings except for the
510 oring so I might have screwed it down too tight
I think Imeos method is like this
Screw basic feeding into base -
Screw ceramic assembly into basic feeding that
Is attached to base - slowly screw till tight
Is that correct or do I screw ceramic into basic feed ring and then screw the combined ceramic and basic feed into base ?
510 oring so I might have screwed it down too tight
I think Imeos method is like this
Screw basic feeding into base -
Screw ceramic assembly into basic feeding that
Is attached to base - slowly screw till tight
Is that correct or do I screw ceramic into basic feed ring and then screw the combined ceramic and basic feed into base ?
All the features of Ithaka the Hercules has.
That's the way I tighten mine.
Keep an eye on the positive post and o-ring while tightening, if it's off center you can see the post pulling the o-ring out of shape.
I use a small nylon washer between the o-ring and the positive wire(s) since having one of the wires poke through the o-ring and short, nothing like the taste of burnt rubber.
Where can one get just the positive pin O ring? I bought the O ring kit from bucky's, but unfortunately I didn't look at the picture correctly, and received the O ring kit without that O ring...
Here ya go, you might not need 100 of them but you would probably pay more for less of them. 3 mm x 2mm is the size.
Metric Buna Orings 3 x 2mm Price for 100 pc - Orings and More
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