The Hercules nut should look just like this one unless they started copying the new nut for Ithaka.
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thanks again dw. With how I tend to over tighten the base and destroy them, 100 should last me a good year hehehe. Ordering now.
Oh so then scope assuming the nut specs on the herc was incorrect - well good for all of us then
So far no moisture in the 510 adapter from the 510 pin and oring - will keep checking
Buckys bargain bin ready wires are way too short
Bought some 1.2 and 1.5 - I'll use them with my rda I guess
Smokeys 2.2 ohm readys are perfect and wonderfully long
So far no moisture in the 510 adapter from the 510 pin and oring - will keep checking
Buckys bargain bin ready wires are way too short
Bought some 1.2 and 1.5 - I'll use them with my rda I guess
Smokeys 2.2 ohm readys are perfect and wonderfully long
Stormy's just started offering ready-wires using Kanthal A1 (round & ribbon) instead of the the Nikrothal wire. HUGE difference in flavor IMHO.
While the Nikrothal ready-wires are convenient, they always gave me a metallic funky flavor that just turned me off...I went back to building my own wires with Kanthal/Silver wire. These are the best of both worlds.. I haven't tried the ribbon versions yet (just got them yesterday) but the round Kanthal ready-wires are orders of magnitude better flavor-wise (and plenty long enough for any of the Ithaka/Hercules).
Going to order some more...good stuff!
The Hercules nut should look just like this one unless they started copying the new nut for Ithaka.
I should have explained that better... yes, my nut looks like this, but there's no hole in the ceramic assembly itself for juice to fall out of the bottom, at least to my eyes.
In other words, no matter which position you rotate the nut to, it doesn't create holes for juice to escape, at least on mine.
The ceramic should look just like this one,
Sorry for the scary picture but it was the best that I could find to show it.
Here is where the liquid drains out of the ceramic housing, it's just below the plastic nut for the negative wires.
Sorry for the scary picture but it was the best that I could find to show it.
Here is where the liquid drains out of the ceramic housing, it's just below the plastic nut for the negative wires.
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The 27 - 30 mm clear tanks for Oddy will work as well.
This one is a 30 mm (includes the threads)
Here is where, not in US though: http://gr-modders.com/14-odysseas-g...olor-transparent_white/clear_window_size-30mm
Limited stock, 7 of one size and 14 of the other
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DW and everyone else
I see the slots in the ceramic housing but I don't get how they work in conjunction with the screw ?
I'm just obviously missing something
The way I have it - the holes In the nut are facing the channels - I think that's the way they should face right ?
I guess I'm just looking for laymen explanation of how that nut position and assembly works
I see the slots in the ceramic housing but I don't get how they work in conjunction with the screw ?
I'm just obviously missing something
The way I have it - the holes In the nut are facing the channels - I think that's the way they should face right ?
I guess I'm just looking for laymen explanation of how that nut position and assembly works
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Also forgot to mention this earlier
Ithaka short mode is awesome
And I love that u can change the coils and build with a full tank - turn it upside down - unscrew MP and pull it out
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7ZrwB-s-M&desktop_uri=/watch?v=hm7ZrwB-s-M
Ithaka short mode is awesome
And I love that u can change the coils and build with a full tank - turn it upside down - unscrew MP and pull it out
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7ZrwB-s-M&desktop_uri=/watch?v=hm7ZrwB-s-M
I would love to here DW's take on this too, because I tried rotating in different positions, and never found a spot where I could actually see any light, or any way for juice to get out of the ceramic and go back down...
The center hole in both the metal part of the head and the ceramic that goes in it are larger the center screw/post. Tightening down the nut is what holds the post in place. This leaves space for the juice to flow down alongside the post. The nut covers the hole in the ceramic completely but if its oriented the slots are uncovered the juice can flow through them and get under the nut to the floating post and go down the hole alongside the post. You'll notice the two slots on the underside of the metal piece where the nut for trapping the negative lead screws on. This is so the juice can flow out of that center hole when the plastic spacer is pressed up against the bottom holding the post tight.
The excess ejuice goes down into the ceramics slots, then along them under the nut, then down alongside the floating post, then out the side slots at the bottom. The nut orientation opens or closes it.
The excess ejuice goes down into the ceramics slots, then along them under the nut, then down alongside the floating post, then out the side slots at the bottom. The nut orientation opens or closes it.
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I have two that are open and two that are closed, under normal conditions I doubt if it make much if any difference.
Wait a second I just realized I think I put that nut in upside down
The flanged piece (wider piece) should be towards the bottom of the collector cup? With the thin threads facing up?
Or does the piece go into the middle of the ceramic like a screw ?
The flanged piece (wider piece) should be towards the bottom of the collector cup? With the thin threads facing up?
Or does the piece go into the middle of the ceramic like a screw ?
Yes, the flat wide side goes to the bottom or it won't be able to seal off the slots. The small end of the nut is slotted so you can hold it in place with a small screw driver while you screw in the center post from the other side (with your fingers). It really only comes into play if you massively flood the cup (happened to me once when i accidentally completely unscrewed the mouthpiece with a full tank). Otherwise it would drain out the mouthpiece if the cup filled up. If juice manages to get down in the cup it wont be pulled up because the wicks only go across the top. I don't see any negatives to leaving it open, so i always do.
Unless you can find some reason to have the basic feeder open I would suggest you keep them closed unless of coarse you like juice leaking while filling.
I finally think I have figured out what purpose they might serve and that would be to be able to wick up the very last drop because of how high the lowest part of the wick is to the bottom of the tank. I keep mine closed but on a couple occasions I vaped it dry so I see no reason for them except to cause leakage during filling.
I finally think I have figured out what purpose they might serve and that would be to be able to wick up the very last drop because of how high the lowest part of the wick is to the bottom of the tank. I keep mine closed but on a couple occasions I vaped it dry so I see no reason for them except to cause leakage during filling.
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