Hey all...fresh meat with a question!

[Josh Stuart]

Hey, name’s Josh. I’m an Army veteran who plays mechanic to pay the bills. I have a wife and 2 kids and enjoy long walks on the...wait, nevermind. Been vaping about 3 years now, been through a bunch of different setups but now I have a LE80 with a Maus Subohm tank. Love the tank but it is too much for this LE80 to fire. It fires so slowly. I want something that hits about a second before I hit the button, lol. I had a Procolor and found out twice how fragile they are, now it sits broken in the cabinet at home. I love the Lotus but being a mech mod it just has so much issue heating the coil up in this Maus tank. I got 3000 MaH batteries that are brand new as of tonight. What tank would work best with this LE80? I ideally want one that fires fairly quickly, but also has tough enough coils that I can actually turn this puppy up and use the power it has. With these coils I can only go about half power without burning it.

 

[Caesar77]

Increase the voltage/power. If that doesn't help it's just how your mod operates and its ramp up time. I don't think ramp up time has anything to do with the tank itself but the mod,coil and power you are using. I might be wrong tho.

 

[bombastinator]

You know what they say, there are three criteria and you can pick any two. There’s a few more here but you still can’t have em all.

Rugged and cheap:
1: geekvape ageis.
Pros: milspec rugged. You can swim with it or run it over with a truck
Cons: still a 1 battery mod even though the battery is bigger, quite large

2: wismec noise cricket 2 25
Pros: can hit like an absolute demon in series mode, made of steel, really really cheap
Cons: THIS IS A MECHANICAL MOD! It’s got a chip in it and has a lot of protections that regular mechanicals don’t have, it still has many of the complications as well. If you do not want to bother learning the ins and outs of mechanicals DO NOT BUY THIS

Rugged and not cheap:
There’s actually a bunch of these. Expect to for over more than a hundred bucks for any of them though. The shared feature of these is they tend NOT to be Chinese

Either of the squid mods. I couldn’t figure out the diameter of your atty, but if it’s over 23mm you need the big one rather than the small one. Made in the USA even

Lost vape therion
Jaq vapor (I forget what their 2 battery mod is) these are British and can be hard to get.

There are several other good brands as well. I’m forgetting names though.

Someone will be along with more suggestions I am sure.
GL

 

[Letitia]

It is your device that does or does not hit hard. You may have fire lag or need different coils as you suggested. If the mod has a fire lag changing coils won't help.
Welcome to ECF.

 

[suprtrkr]

Hi and welcome. Excessive ramp time is generally a function of coil mass. That is to say, the more wire in the coil, the longer it takes to heat the outer perimeter to vape temperature at any given power level. I am assuming you are using the .2Ω coils, given you say an 80 watt mod won't fire it quickly. One thing that might help is to try some different batteries. You don't say what batteries you bought, but if they're really 3000mAh, it is unlikely they exceed 20A CDR. Moving to a 30A CDR cell-- the LG HB6 leaps to mind-- will help prevent voltage sag in the cell at the maximum wattage your mod will support. Even a 25A cell would improve things; I use the LG HD2Cs in my mech mods just to provide a thicker safety margin.

What happens in a small mod like that-- all regulated mods, actually-- is the control board "asks" the battery for some power, and the battery provides it at whatever voltage its charge state will allow. However, the mod board is limited in its ability to use this power; if the battery voltage drops below a certain point, the board can not provide full wattage to the coil. It can only do what the cell voltage will permit. With a long life, low current cell like your 3000mAh ones, when the board starts to draw current from the cell, the voltage will "sag"-- meaning drop below the actual charge state native voltage-- because the battery can not provide the power quickly enough due to its internal chemistry. You wind up with an unstable state in the battery where the storage media is more discharged at the ends of the battery by the contacts, while the middle of the battery has a higher charge because the internals can't push the electrons to the contacts fast enough. This is (usually) not dangerous, and it will heal itself in a well functioning cell, if it is allowed to "rest" between power pulses: the charge will even out over time and the whole battery will attain the same charge state... until the next time you push the button. Higher CDR cells do a better job of free-flowing the electrons to the poles, but the trade-off is lower mAh, meaning it will store less power in the same volume. This effect worsens as the cell discharges over the useful life cycle.

In addition to this, many mod makers are guilty of "overestimating" the power their boards will attain. An "80 watt" board might get there if it was fired with a 500W, 5VDC power supply, but getting the same output from a battery is more problematic due to the voltage sag I mentioned. In general, with 20A batteries, you should figure about 60W per cell. That's about all it will do, and about all you should set the mod for. You run some risk-- usually small with a regulated mod-- of over stressing your battery with a greater setting. If you really want to vape at 80 watts in a one-battery mod, go with the HB6s. It still probably won't get all the way there, but it will get closer. Better still is buy a two-cell mod. They are usually wired with the batteries in series so the full charge voltage is 8.4V rather than the 4.2V of a single cell. The voltage still sags, but even sagged it generally remains above the board minimum to produce better wattage. I should also mention a two-battery mod will safely fire at 80 watts using a pair of 20A batteries.

Finally, I can not help you with a tank selection. I am a coil builder and know from drop-in coil tanks. I also don't vape even half the wattage you like.

 

[rollersk4te]

Sigelei and Vaporesso both make rugged, inexpensive mods that hit like monsters. Try checking out the Fuchai 213, Kaos, and the Revenger.

 

[suprtrkr]

You know what they say, there are three criteria and you can pick any two. There’s a few more here but you still can’t have em all.

Rugged and cheap:
1: geekvape ageis.
Pros: milspec rugged. You can swim with it or run it over with a truck
Cons: still a 1 battery mod even though the battery is bigger, quite large

2: wismec noise cricket 2 25
Pros: can hit like an absolute demon in series mode, made of steel, really really cheap
Cons: THIS IS A MECHANICAL MOD! It’s got a chip in it and has a lot of protections that regular mechanicals don’t have, it still has many of the complications as well. If you do not want to bother learning the ins and outs of mechanicals DO NOT BUY THIS

Rugged and not cheap:
There’s actually a bunch of these. Expect to for over more than a hundred bucks for any of them though. The shared feature of these is they tend NOT to be Chinese

Either of the squid mods. I couldn’t figure out the diameter of your atty, but if it’s over 23mm you need the big one rather than the small one. Made in the USA even

Lost vape therion
Jaq vapor (I forget what their 2 battery mod is) these are British and can be hard to get.

There are several other good brands as well. I’m forgetting names though.

Someone will be along with more suggestions I am sure.
GL

I have one each of the Squid mods, the big and the little ones. Super gear, and they hit very hard. They don't do Temp Control, though, so if this is an issue for you look elsewhere. I don't know how high they will fire, but it's on up there. I switched the big one-- the Tac21-- to bypass mode where it hits the coil with native battery voltage using a pair of fresh-charged 20700 cells, and it shot up over 100 watts and nearly blew the top of my head off. I will say I get about a week's vaping time on a single charge in the big one at the tiny little low-20's-watts I vape...

 

[Letitia]

So looked up your LE80. I would scale down your tank. Looks like a good vv mod. You could try a rta so you can build to the device. I'm not up to date on tanks with drop in coils. Someone will come along that knows more than I do. Good luck.

 

[Coyote628]

Personally, i like simple. My favorite high wattage mod is still the first one i bought. Im gonna catch a bit of flak for this maybe, but i have the smok t priv and the tfv12 king. It goes to 220w if your lungs can handle it. The king tank hits with huge clouds, enough to choke an average sized mule. Ive had it six months now with zero issues. They arent terribly expensive, they have vw and tc mode, will handle any rda up to 25mm if you like rda's and all that. I know there are people who had bad experience with this brand but im not one of them and absolutely love mine. G priv if youre not into all the fancy led lights and works pretty much the same. But, this is just my opinion. Vape on!!

 

[Rex Everything]

You know what they say, there are three criteria and you can pick any two. There’s a few more here but you still can’t have em all.

Rugged and cheap:
1: geekvape ageis.
Pros: milspec rugged. You can swim with it or run it over with a truck
Cons: still a 1 battery mod even though the battery is bigger, quite large

2: wismec noise cricket 2 25
Pros: can hit like an absolute demon in series mode, made of steel, really really cheap
Cons: THIS IS A MECHANICAL MOD! It’s got a chip in it and has a lot of protections that regular mechanicals don’t have, it still has many of the complications as well. If you do not want to bother learning the ins and outs of mechanicals DO NOT BUY THIS

Rugged and not cheap:
There’s actually a bunch of these. Expect to for over more than a hundred bucks for any of them though. The shared feature of these is they tend NOT to be Chinese

Either of the squid mods. I couldn’t figure out the diameter of your atty, but if it’s over 23mm you need the big one rather than the small one. Made in the USA even

Lost vape therion
Jaq vapor (I forget what their 2 battery mod is) these are British and can be hard to get.

There are several other good brands as well. I’m forgetting names though.

Someone will be along with more suggestions I am sure.
GL

If it has a chip or wires it is not a mechanical mod it is un regulated....there is a difference

 

[stols001]

I'd agree that your setup isn't handing your coils if you are getting a long firing lag. It could be the mod, or it could be the amount of metal that your tank needs to heat up, requiring higher wattage. I am a wattage weenie, so not the best at recommending a PARTICULAR "hard hitting" high wattage mod, but there are lots of good ones about, and I even own some of them, I just get vastly awesome battery life.

Brands that I like and find reliable however: Teslacigs, Eleaf (I love eleaf's mods), Wismec is liked by some, the geekvape ages is indeed rugged (but so is most Tesla cigs stuff) and Vapresso is a reliable vendor I only own one setup from them but I like it immensely and they do make some very nice, high powered mods. I guess Voopoo would be an option, though again I don't know those mods as well. If you want precise TC control, probably a DNA mod would be useful, although there are some non-DNA mods that do TC really rather well (Teslacigs, I am talking to you).

Finally, welcome to ECF, I hope you find something that works better for you.

Anna

 

[Baditude]

Hi and welcome. Excessive ramp time is generally a function of coil mass. That is to say, the more wire in the coil, the longer it takes to heat the outer perimeter to vape temperature at any given power level. I am assuming you are using the .2Ω coils, given you say an 80 watt mod won't fire it quickly. One thing that might help is to try some different batteries. You don't say what batteries you bought, but if they're really 3000mAh, it is unlikely they exceed 20A CDR. Moving to a 30A CDR cell-- the LG HB6 leaps to mind-- will help prevent voltage sag in the cell at the maximum wattage your mod will support. Even a 25A cell would improve things; I use the LG HD2Cs in my mech mods just to provide a thicker safety margin.

What happens in a small mod like that-- all regulated mods, actually-- is the control board "asks" the battery for some power, and the battery provides it at whatever voltage its charge state will allow. However, the mod board is limited in its ability to use this power; if the battery voltage drops below a certain point, the board can not provide full wattage to the coil. It can only do what the cell voltage will permit. With a long life, low current cell like your 3000mAh ones, when the board starts to draw current from the cell, the voltage will "sag"-- meaning drop below the actual charge state native voltage-- because the battery can not provide the power quickly enough due to its internal chemistry. You wind up with an unstable state in the battery where the storage media is more discharged at the ends of the battery by the contacts, while the middle of the battery has a higher charge because the internals can't push the electrons to the contacts fast enough. This is (usually) not dangerous, and it will heal itself in a well functioning cell, if it is allowed to "rest" between power pulses: the charge will even out over time and the whole battery will attain the same charge state... until the next time you push the button. Higher CDR cells do a better job of free-flowing the electrons to the poles, but the trade-off is lower mAh, meaning it will store less power in the same volume. This effect worsens as the cell discharges over the useful life cycle.

In addition to this, many mod makers are guilty of "overestimating" the power their boards will attain. An "80 watt" board might get there if it was fired with a 500W, 5VDC power supply, but getting the same output from a battery is more problematic due to the voltage sag I mentioned. In general, with 20A batteries, you should figure about 60W per cell. That's about all it will do, and about all you should set the mod for. You run some risk-- usually small with a regulated mod-- of over stressing your battery with a greater setting. If you really want to vape at 80 watts in a one-battery mod, go with the HB6s. It still probably won't get all the way there, but it will get closer. Better still is buy a two-cell mod. They are usually wired with the batteries in series so the full charge voltage is 8.4V rather than the 4.2V of a single cell. The voltage still sags, but even sagged it generally remains above the board minimum to produce better wattage. I should also mention a two-battery mod will safely fire at 80 watts using a pair of 20A batteries.

I agree with @suprtrkr about the coil mass increasing ramp up time and trying 30 amp batteries.

Try some higher ohm coils to decrease your ramp up time. Higher ohm coils generally use thinner wire, so the overall wire mass will be lower and decrease the ramp up time. Lower ohm coils draw more energy from the battery/microchip; the lower the ohms the higher the amp draw.

1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.15 ohms = 28 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway

Back to the batteries discussion, a 3000mah battery is going to have just a 15-20 amp/current potential. The 30 amp batteries only have 1500 mah, so they are only going to last half the time of a 3000 mah battery. You always have to decide which is most important to you? Amps or mAh? -- you can't have both in the same battery.

Samsung 18650 30Q, 3000 mah 15 amp CDR

Sony 18659VTC6 3000mAh 15 amp CDR

AW 18650 3000 mah 20 amp CDR

LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20 amp CDR

LG18650HB6 1500mah 30 amp CDR

LG18650HB2 1500mAh 30 amp CDR

LG18650HB4 1500mAh 30 amp CDR

Sony 18650VTC3 1500mAh 30 amp CDR

When discussing power output with a regulated mod, coil resistance is irrelevant. Everthing is based on the wattage setting you use.

WATTAGE PER SINGLE BATTERY:

20W-45W:

Samsung 18650 30Q, 3000 mah 15 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC6 3000mAh 15 amp CDR
​

20W-60W:

LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20 amp CDR
LG 18650HE2 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
Samsung 18650-25R, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC5, 2600 mah 20 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC4, 2100 mah 23 amp CDR
AW 18650 3000 mah 20 amp CDR
​

30W - 75W:

LG 18650 HD4 2100 mah 25 amp CDR
LG 18650 HD2 2000 mah 25 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC5A, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR
​

60W - 90W:

LG18650HB6 1500mah 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB2 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB4 1500mAh 30 amp CDR​

Finally, I can not help you with a tank selection.

I can't help with tank selection either. I only vape around 30 watts. @Josh Stuart you are way out of my league.

Sigelei and Vaporesso both make rugged, inexpensive mods that hit like monsters. Try checking out the Fuchai 213, Kaos, and the Revenger.

I have the Segelei Fuschai 213 Plus. It is indeed a rugged 2 battery mod but no way it is a 200 watt mod. Think 150 watts at most.

 

[BrotherBob]

just has so much issue heating the coil up in this Maus tank

Welcome and glad you joined.
I would look at a tank that you could rebuild (more control for less money). One of your options may be using .5 ohms plus for quicker response, could read:
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...re-and-lower-resistance.706656/#post-16692106
Might help if you look at the rebuildable information below:
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/7-information-resources-for-your-first-rba.4454/
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/wrapping-building-coils-101-for-beginners.745045/
Rebuildable Tanks Explained: RBAs vs RDAs vs RTAs vs RDTAs
Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...er-flow-flavor-saturation-and-nic-hit.561226/

 

[Josh Stuart]

Ok, thank you all for the useful info. I bought LG 3000 MaH batteries the other night, didn’t help. Thinking i’m Gonna have to order .5 coils and try that, i’ve Been running.2 as another user suggested. Will try that and if that doesn’t work, look again for a different tank. Thank you all again!

 

[NealBJr]

Ok, thank you all for the useful info. I bought LG 3000 MaH batteries the other night, didn’t help. Thinking i’m Gonna have to order .5 coils and try that, i’ve Been running.2 as another user suggested. Will try that and if that doesn’t work, look again for a different tank. Thank you all again!

Yea, looking at your mod (LE80), it looks like it simply has a voltage regulator done via a potentiometer (sp?). I'd probably look into getting a true regulated device.

 

[mcclintock]

If it is firing slowly AND still burning at that setting, either the coils/device are no good or too powerful for your vaping style, such as not pulling enough air through it. When a coil is a little too large for your airflow and technique, it gets set more or less to the exact same power as a smaller, optimum coil. If the coil is far too large and is set far below optimum, it may take so long to heat up it ends up heating the air and atty directly, resulting in hot vapor despite small amounts.

Coils are only one of several limiting factor. If the other factors are the limit, there is no coil tough enough to handle more, it's not the limit.

 

[redeuce]

Thanks for your service and welcome.