Hey guys I tried this but my wire was to thick

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Susan~S

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You CAN NOT use 22 gauge wire to rebuild your protank coils. Even if it did fit the resistance would be way to low for a protank. Depending on the mod you are using you could even possibly vent the battery.

What battery/mod are you using? Does it have a built in ohm reader? If not, you must purchase one if you are going to rebuild.
 
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edyle

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Lol that's why this site exist right haha no but really thank you I now see the dangers. I was just going to use my itaste but it didn't fit anyway. I plan to get some 32 gauge wire and I do have a ohm reader.

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30 is a good all round gauge to use; both on protank coils and on rebuildables.
I've had 30 gauge kanthal coils run for months.

I used to rebuild protank coils for a year till I got my hands on a rebuildable.
But nowadays there's no point in doing that with the likes of the (badly named) subtank, goliath, and such other tanks now where you can get replaceable coil heads with post screws designed for rebuilding.
 
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IMFire3605

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I tried it with 22 gauge wire and it was to thick and ruined my coil ( yes I know he says what wire to use but I don't have any and didnt feel like getting some) anyway if y'all try it let me know how it works. I mean it could save everybody a few bucks right

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About the thickest wire you want to use with a PT head is 28awg, 30 and 32 work the best, the wire Kanger uses is 34 or 36. I've generally wrapped 32awg coils in those heads on a 1/16th inch bit, 10/9 wrap always came in around 1.4 to 1.5ohm range and doesn't give much wiggle room.
 
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Nokosa

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I tried it with 22 gauge wire and it was to thick and ruined my coil ( yes I know he says what wire to use but I don't have any and didnt feel like getting some) anyway if y'all try it let me know how it works. I mean it could save everybody a few bucks right

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

I don't mean to be rude, and I know you've stated you know the risks now, but seriously, heed this warning; never, ever, do something the wrong way simply because you don't feel like doing it the right way. That's a good way to seriously injure and/or get yourself killed.

Carry on.
 

vapinkath

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30 is a good all round gauge to use; both on protank coils and on rebuildables.
I've had 30 gauge kanthal coils run for months.

I used to rebuild protank coils for a year till I got my hands on a rebuildable.
But nowadays there's no point in doing that with the likes of the (badly named) subtank, goliath, and such other tanks now where you can get replaceable coil heads with post screws designed for rebuilding.
The best tank I've found for vapor and flavor is the Crown tank by UWELL and they have an additional piece you can purchase that makes it an RTA so you don't have to keep buying new coils!
 

IMFire3605

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I tried rebuilding protank coils once..... never did it again isnt worth the time or effort....

Hehehe, learned how to do rebuilds by rebuilding PT heads before I got my first dripper and mech, go so quick at doing them I could coil and reassemble one in about 3 to 5 minutes, about 10 heads an hour, fun fun fun, and dang easy.
 

NealBJr

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I tried it with 22 gauge wire and it was to thick and ruined my coil ( yes I know he says what wire to use but I don't have any and didnt feel like getting some) anyway if y'all try it let me know how it works. I mean it could save everybody a few bucks right

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
I recoil my pt2 coils all the time. 32 or 30 gauge only is recommended. Anything lower might get too hot, and run the risk of melting the rubber seal IMO. There's not much space there to work on, so any higher gauge wire would cause the ohmes to be way too low to be useable

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EBates

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Ya know you can clean and reuse PT heads, right?
Here's the process I use:
Atomizer Cleaning

Soak in 91% Isopropyl alcohol or everclear over night or until I get 5-6 to clean.
Rinse throughly with warm tap water forcing water into the wick area.
Towel dry and blow out any water.
Mount the head on a tank base.
Remove the gasket and stem.
Remove the flavor wick(s).
Mount the tank base with the atomizer head on your PV.
Dry burn 6 watts, 5 seconds on/off. Repeat until coils are all turning red and wick is clean.
Blow the burned off crud away.

Hold the flavor wick with tweezer while burning them with a lighter or torch until wick is clean.
-Place the flavor wick back on top of the coil.
Or
-Replace the flavor wick with the material of your choice.

Reinstall the stem and gasket.

Note: once I got into rebuilding I sat my PT's aside and bought a Kayfun. I found trying to rebuild PT heads to be a PIA.
 
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Bunnykiller

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Ya know you can clean and reuse PT heads, right?
Here's the process I use:
Atomizer Cleaning

Soak in 91% Isopropyl alcohol or everclear over night or until I get 5-6 to clean.
Rinse throughly with warm tap water forcing water into the wick area.
Towel dry and blow out any water.
Mount the head on a tank base.
Remove the gasket and stem.
Remove the flavor wick(s).
Mount the tank base with the atomizer head on your PV.
Dry burn 6 watts, 5 seconds on/off. Repeat until coils are all turning red and wick is clean.
Blow the burned off crud away.

Hold the flavor wick with tweezer while burning them with a lighter or torch until wick is clean.
-Place the flavor wick back on top of the coil.
Or
-Replace the flavor wick with the material of your choice.

Reinstall the stem and gasket.

Note: once I got into rebuilding I sat my PT's aside and bought a Kayfun. I found trying to rebuild PT heads to be a PIA.
thats 12 steps.... try the quicker way, rip out old coil, make new coil, install new coil, test for ohms, wick it, vape it.

5 steps with alot less effort
 
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