Hi all, new here with a build problem

[Sm0keydaBear]

Hi everybody. I just recently got into vaping seriously. I used to use an old pen-style eGO and that worked for a bit, then I went back to normal cigarettes.

I just picked up on vaping as a way to smoke less cigarettes, and now haven't smoked a cigarette in quite a bit.

I've been trying different cartomizers and am looking for the best one to suit my needs.

Right now, I'm having a bit of an issue with my GS-Tank that I ordered online. I'm constantly getting an "Atomizer Low" message on my iStick 40w. Taking the cartomizer apart and fiddling with the atomizer head will sometimes fix the problem, but it is constantly happening. I've tried changing the heads, unscrewing and screwing back in the head, and searching online to no avail.

With that said, any help would be appreciated because I'm really liking vaping over cigarettes. Thanks!

 

[IMFire3605]

Sounds like the connection isn't staying stable. Are you using this Temperature Control Mode (TC) on the iStick with Nickel or Titanium wire, or standard wattage mode with a normal Kanthal Coil? Have you tried a different coil head in there? Next spot I would look at is making sure the 510 connectors are clean of grime and liquid (use a q-tip or such and a little rubbing alcohol to clean the pins, next would be to make sure the 510 pin on the iStick is not being pressed to far down it won't push back up, if that is the case an unwrapped paper clip works to help wiggle it back up. If all looks good with the iStick then it is the connection with the tank is to shallow and not making proper connection down into the iStick's 510 connector. Without seeing for myself I'm just running down the list of what I would look at.

 

[Rixsta]

What ohm coil is it, the Atomizer Low warning usually indicates that the resistance of the coil is to low for the device to fire it.

oh and congrats on stopping smoking

and

 

[Rixsta]

Hmm, that is a 1.5ohm coil rated at 8 - 20w so its not that, could be a bad coil, bad connection or in some cases the mod, your in wattage mode right ?

 

[Tehtarik]

Any chance that some juice made its way to the threads and its affecting the conductivity?

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

Is is the GS Air (GS-Tank) with Ni200 coils rated for 0.15 ohm. I usually run it at about 23w and temperature control is set to about 400f.

Ok so last night, I cleaned the connection to the 510 base (the little pin in-between) and it worked for a short bit. Upon waking up this morning, it is giving me the "Atomizer Low" warning yet again. I replaced the coil head which was a brand new coil head that I primed because it started giving me the "Atomizer Low" quite a bit. My new coil head worked for about a grand total of an hour before giving me the "Atomizer Low" warning yet again. As I said already, I cleaned the 510 pin that touches the coil head and it worked for an hour before I went to bed. Woke up, and it's "Atomizer Low" again. Thanks for the replies!

EDIT: I unscrewed the top of the tank (the fill portion) and did a quick touch on the fire button and it didn't give me the "Atomizer Low." Screwed the top back on, and it is working again. I still have no idea why it keeps doing this.

EDIT: After sitting again for about 5 minutes, "Atomizer Low" again.

EDIT: And again, after fiddling with the atomizer head and getting it to work, it's back to the "Atomizer Low." Not sure how I can get this clearomizer to work consistently. It did alright for the first couple of days, then I started getting this message a lot. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Baditude]

I've been trying different cartomizers and am looking for the best one to suit my needs.

With that said, any help would be appreciated because I'm really liking vaping over cigarettes. Thanks!

I'm being nit picky, but what you are using is not a cartomizer. Congrats on not smoking, regardless.

Proper Terminology: A Guide to Juice Delivery Devices

 

[Kaezziel]

I'm being nit picky, but what you are using is not a cartomizer. Congrats on not smoking, regardless.

Proper Terminology: A Guide to Juice Delivery Devices

Thanks for the laugh, Bad... you know I love ya, man!

So, Sm0key... when you 'fiddle with the head', are you feeling any 'play' in it when you press down a bit? Is it 'wobbly' in the socket? I'm just trying to determine if maybe it's a bit loose and that we need to find a way to tighten it up in there.

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

I'm being nit picky, but what you are using is not a cartomizer. Congrats on not smoking, regardless.

Proper Terminology: A Guide to Juice Delivery Devices

Lol sorry for the wrong reference. I guess what I'm using is called a glassomizer or something to that nature. Anyways, I'm not exactly sure how to keep the GS Air going. I've tried reducing the amount of airflow, but it gives me a weird somewhat burning flavor. Opening the air ports gives me a great flavor, but it then gives me the "Atomizer Low" message quite a bit. Trying to find someone who knows what is happening here, because I'm racking my brain try to find the solution. Thanks!

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

Thanks for the laugh, Bad... you know I love ya, man!

So, Sm0key... when you 'fiddle with the head', are you feeling any 'play' in it when you press down a bit? Is it 'wobbly' in the socket? I'm just trying to determine if maybe it's a bit loose and that we need to find a way to tighten it up in there.

No, it is not loose at all. I tighten them down to try to ensure no juice can come through the threads. Once I get it to the point where it does not say "Atomizer Low," I screw the atomizer in fully and secure, then screw the top back on. It will work like that until I can tell that the juice isn't flowing properly because the flavor of the ejuice goes away. I can try doing some primer puffs, but that hasn't worked yet. The only solution I've had thus far is to take the atomizer head and unscrew it until I get a "No Atomizer" message, then screw it back in and doing this about 1-3 times will usually get it working again.

EDIT: Just to be clear with everyone, both my Aspire K1 and KangarTech Mini Protank 2 work without problems. They haven't ever given me an "Atomizer Low" warning.

 

[Kaezziel]

No, it is not loose at all. I tighten them down to try to ensure no juice can come through the threads. Once I get it to the point where it does not say "Atomizer Low," I screw the atomizer in fully and secure, then screw the top back on. It will work like that until I can tell that the juice isn't flowing properly because the flavor of the ejuice goes away. I can try doing some primer puffs, but that hasn't worked yet. The only solution I've had thus far is to take the atomizer head and unscrew it until I get a "No Atomizer" message, then screw it back in and doing this about 1-3 times will usually get it working again.

EDIT: Just to be clear with everyone, both my Aspire K1 and KangarTech Mini Protank 2 work without problems. They haven't ever given me an "Atomizer Low" warning.

Hmmmm... so if this pic is correct (I don't have a GS-Air, myself... I gave up on pre-made coil systems a long time ago because they were all too 'fiddly'), the only thing I can see is that the head needs to be screwed tightly into the chimney section, then screw the base/AFC into the tank. If all of that is screwed tightly, then the only other thing I could think of is that maybe it is poorly machined at the base and not making good contact.

 

[Kaezziel]

Just as a test, maybe try putting a very small dot of silver solder (not lead) on the contact point at the bottom of the head unit. That would fill any potential gap and give you a solid contact point to the base.

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

Hmmmm... so if this pic is correct (I don't have a GS-Air, myself... I gave up on pre-made coil systems a long time ago because they were all too 'fiddly'), the only thing I can see is that the head needs to be screwed tightly into the chimney section, then screw the base/AFC into the tank. If all of that is screwed tightly, then the only other thing I could think of is that maybe it is poorly machined at the base and not making good contact.

Sorry I should have been more clear, it's the GS-Tank from Eleaf and it looks like this...

I've checked to see the contact and cleaned the base as lots of people have suggested of the 510 pin inside the base. I know it makes contact because when "fiddling" with the atomizer head, it will correctly let me know when it is not making contact by telling me "No Atomizer." When it has contact, it either gives me "Atomizer Low" or fires. Knowing that the contact is ok, I'm wondering if the holes in the atomizer head are too small and not allowing enough ejuice to come through, thus giving me "Atomizer Low."

 

[IMFire3605]

So this is happening with the Ni200 TC coil heads for the tank...

Could be an issue like some people have with the Kanger Subtank TC coil heads, after use a while the wire in the coil somehow touches or contacts the housing and is shorting out. By all accounts being both the tank and mod are both made by eleaf, they should match up well together. If it isn't the coil head persay, then I am going to have to say it is a problem of connection to the mod 510 pin, or as Kaezziel stated, problem with the connection between the tank base and coil head

 

[Kaezziel]

Sorry, Sm0key... I'm at a loss, then. Like I said, that's why I gave up on the replaceable coil head tanks to begin with. Too many little fiddly problems. I got too many DOA heads and none of them seemed to last very long anyway. At least with my rebuildables, if there's a problem it'll be because I screwed something up. Those problems are usually easily fixed.
Good luck, man... hopefully someone else will have a better idea for ya.

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

So this is happening with the Ni200 TC coil heads for the tank...

Could be an issue like some people have with the Kanger Subtank TC coil heads, after use a while the wire in the coil somehow touches or contacts the housing and is shorting out. By all accounts being both the tank and mod are both made by eleaf, they should match up well together. If it isn't the coil head persay, then I am going to have to say it is a problem of connection to the mod 510 pin, or as Kaezziel stated, problem with the connection between the tank base and coil head

I've been checking to see if it is the connection to the 510 pin and it seems that part is working correctly. As I screw in the atomizer head, I tightly place my finger on the 510 pin to see if it moves, and it does. The connection there is good, and the readings are correct when the atomizer head is not connecting with the "No Atomizer" reading. However, when the atomizer head IS screwed in, there's no way for me to be able to know what the problem is when it gives me "Atomizer Low" or fires correctly. I don't think it's a short, the ohm readings are always correct.

 

[Kaezziel]

"Atomizer Low" shouldn't have anything to do with juice getting to the coils. "Atomizer Low" is typically telling you that the resistance is too low... indicating a short as IMFire stated. Sounds like a PITA problem.... it's even more weird, because you're getting the same error with multiple coil heads...

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

"Atomizer Low" shouldn't have anything to do with juice getting to the coils. "Atomizer Low" is typically telling you that the resistance is too low... indicating a short as IMFire stated. Sounds like a PITA problem.... it's even more weird, because you're getting the same error with multiple coil heads...

The issue here is that it will work for a short bit, then when juice isn't in excess in the coil or something to that effect (to the point of where it is not almost gurgling,) it will give me an "Atomizer Low" message. The resistance reads correctly at all times. That's why it leads me to believe it might be an issue with the juice flow.

 

[IMFire3605]

Yep, sounding just like the problem many have with the subtanks, its in the coil head itself. As the wire gets warm and hot, simple laws of physics, it or the wicking expands just enough to ground out the wire against the housing (aka shorts out). This ground out spot could be anywhere along the wire in the coil, from the connection pin, up along the housing wall, to the top of the coil, and back down the other side along the second lead. The mod is detecting this ground out and only way it is resetting its reading is removal and reseating or letting the coil head cool back down to where the wire contracts back to starting state. This is a QC issue with eleaf's design, nothing you can do about it if you can't tear the coil head apart and rebuild it yourself.

 

[Shirtbloke]

I've had similar problems when trying to recoil these heads. The problem is as IMFire has stated above. The solution I hit on which randomly works is to twist the bottom part of the coil where the slot is using a small screwdriver - try it 90 degrees one way and test it and if not working then 90 degrees the other way. Fiddling with it this way will usually get it working but it's a bit random. Hope that helps.