Hi
- Thread starter Fanny74
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Is this a Gen 2? It comes in several metals. Which do you have, and can you post a photo of what's going on? It's hard to visualize overnight corrosion. How long have you had it, and what kind of juice and build?
Sorry for all the questions. It's just info needed to try and help you out.
Sorry for all the questions. It's just info needed to try and help you out.
Is that mech a hybrid (I think it is but want to be sure)? What resistance are you building to and what battery are you pairing it with? It looks like you're burning/scorching the metal, or at least the finish, which just cannot end well.
I'm assuming by 25R you mean the green Samsungs. At 0.17 ohm, you're pulling ~22A at 3.7V nominal and 25Rs are only rated to 20A. On a hybrid mech that's not a good thing. Looking at the photo the rda looks like brass. Is the brass lacquered? Sometimes that's done with brass to help maintain the finish, although not something I would personally do on an rda.
Somehow you're burning the finish and punching a hole through by your description of an actual hole in there. At best I would hope for just scorching the finish from overheating, but to punch a hole through suggests maybe arcing to make that happen, which can be a very bad thing for your personal health. I expect the mod feeling really hot in your hand. Honest, put the mod down and step away from the table. The probability of overheating your battery is great, and "energetic" venting can be way worse than some scorching on the rda.
OK, on a 20A battery, I wouldn't exceed a 16-17A draw (actually, I shouldn't exceed 15A but that's me). That would put your minimum build ~0.3 ohm. Anything lower and you will exceed the capability of the battery. There are some 30A batteries out there if you want to edge up a bit more. Here's a list of recommended batteries and what they tested out at. Use the tested current to judge performance, not the manufacturer's claims which tend to be exaggerated.
Second, I'd avoid a hybrid mech myself. The direct pin to positive on the battery is an invitation for mischief. Like arcing.
Best advice I can think to pass on is take it back to the shop you bought it at/contact the website vendor you bought it from and see if they'll help out on a claim of product defect and either exchange or refund. That might not work out if they claim the damage was the result of improper use, but worth the effort as you spent quite a bit on the setup. Lose the hybrid as well, either back to the shop or maybe eBay to recoup some of the money if you can't get a refund. If you must use a mech, get one with a proper 510 so your battery contact is secure. Finally, always check what your current draw will be with your build, and build in a buffer so you don't try to pull too much and end up with a bang. Steam Engine is really handy for a quick calculation based on the resistance and battery your choose. Here's a link Ohm's law
Somehow you're burning the finish and punching a hole through by your description of an actual hole in there. At best I would hope for just scorching the finish from overheating, but to punch a hole through suggests maybe arcing to make that happen, which can be a very bad thing for your personal health. I expect the mod feeling really hot in your hand. Honest, put the mod down and step away from the table. The probability of overheating your battery is great, and "energetic" venting can be way worse than some scorching on the rda.
OK, on a 20A battery, I wouldn't exceed a 16-17A draw (actually, I shouldn't exceed 15A but that's me). That would put your minimum build ~0.3 ohm. Anything lower and you will exceed the capability of the battery. There are some 30A batteries out there if you want to edge up a bit more. Here's a list of recommended batteries and what they tested out at. Use the tested current to judge performance, not the manufacturer's claims which tend to be exaggerated.
Second, I'd avoid a hybrid mech myself. The direct pin to positive on the battery is an invitation for mischief. Like arcing.
Best advice I can think to pass on is take it back to the shop you bought it at/contact the website vendor you bought it from and see if they'll help out on a claim of product defect and either exchange or refund. That might not work out if they claim the damage was the result of improper use, but worth the effort as you spent quite a bit on the setup. Lose the hybrid as well, either back to the shop or maybe eBay to recoup some of the money if you can't get a refund. If you must use a mech, get one with a proper 510 so your battery contact is secure. Finally, always check what your current draw will be with your build, and build in a buffer so you don't try to pull too much and end up with a bang. Steam Engine is really handy for a quick calculation based on the resistance and battery your choose. Here's a link Ohm's law
even at 22A it is still well within the tolerances of that battery. Basically, the battery would heat up slightly faster than it would at 20A. I wouldn't suggest holding the fire button down for 30 minutes, but under 5 to 10 seconds wouldn't make a significant change in temperature of the cell. Now I can't tell you what to build at, but 22A draw is well within the limits of that cell.
I agree about not using a hybrid 510, they just aren't safe. But at least you are using good batteries, they may go thermal, but they won't POP in your face. Lots of time to dump the cell from the mod.
I agree, those appear to be heat marks, most likely from the coil. Try building your coils a bit higher off the deck and farther from the edge of the atty. I find it interesting that it would discolor like that though. I run my attys much higher than that without discoloration.
Now, try to read this next part correctly. It is a balance between what you need to know and what I can't tell you. The CDR is the rate a battery can be constantly discharged. Vapers never actually use the CDR because we never hold the fire button down long enough to discharge a cell. What we do is pulse the battery. How long you can hold the fire button depends on how fast your battery heats up. (yes there is a chart). Now as you go above the CDR the battery heats up faster, they higher the amp draw, the faster the cell heats.
Here is a comparison of batteries (by Mooch)
The Best 18650 Batteries for Vaping
See also 18650 Battery Ratings -- Picking a Safe Battery to Vape With | E-Cigarette Forum
and
Samsung Green 25R (25R5) 20A 2500mAh 18650 Bench Retest Results...a great 20A battery
Regardless of what these tables state, vape within your comfort zone. And vape safe.
Glad you stopped by and asked the questions. I see maximums being pushed. Seems every time I see "hybrid" I see it dangerous.
Keep asking.
Keep asking.
howdy - and welcome! have you tried reaching out to armageddon mfg (the maker of the rda) to see if they have any insight? the owner, ariel paxson, is generally pretty knowledgeable
that being said - personally, if i was going to run under .2 ohms on a single battery mech (even something as spiffy as an AV able) i would look at a different battery, with more of a safety buffer - i tend to run sony vtc4 on my able/ goon combo, but that is simply my preference... with lower ohm builds, i don't really want to skirt the edges any more than absolutely necessary
that being said - personally, if i was going to run under .2 ohms on a single battery mech (even something as spiffy as an AV able) i would look at a different battery, with more of a safety buffer - i tend to run sony vtc4 on my able/ goon combo, but that is simply my preference... with lower ohm builds, i don't really want to skirt the edges any more than absolutely necessary
Welcome, this is an awesome site! I've been a member for less than two weeks and I can't believe how much I have already learned. Good luck!
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That looks more like a scorch mark and not corrosion...almost like the coil was arcing off the sleeve.
*ninja edit*
Do you remember exactly where the sleeve was situated when you first noticed those marks? I'm going to hazard a guess and say that the coil in the top pic (the one on the top left) is too close to the sleeve.
One drawback of mechs: no atomizer short protection. Unless that's galvanic corrosion (highly unlikely) that's occuring, if I were you I would cut my build down to about a .20-.22 and have the coils a little closer to the posts.
*ninja edit*
Do you remember exactly where the sleeve was situated when you first noticed those marks? I'm going to hazard a guess and say that the coil in the top pic (the one on the top left) is too close to the sleeve.
One drawback of mechs: no atomizer short protection. Unless that's galvanic corrosion (highly unlikely) that's occuring, if I were you I would cut my build down to about a .20-.22 and have the coils a little closer to the posts.
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Exactly. Those coils look too close to the sleeve.
I think you have a dangerous setup there with the hybrid and your low resistance. If you know an experienced vaper whose knowledgeable of mechanical mod safety let him look it over that sure looks like coil arcing over to me.
What David said.
PLEASE DO NOT USE THAT SET UP AT THIS TIME (without at least modifying it) You are in grave danger.
PLEASE DO NOT USE THAT SET UP AT THIS TIME (without at least modifying it) You are in grave danger.
Thanks everyone. I am going back to the shop I brought the set up from. I haven't used it since I noticed the marks. It was actually the shop that put the coils in for me.
I never hold the button down for more than a few seconds, and (believe it or not) the mech as not got hot.
I'm gonna try for a refund, just a bit gutted that the first time I buy a half decent set-up and this happens.
I never hold the button down for more than a few seconds, and (believe it or not) the mech as not got hot.
I'm gonna try for a refund, just a bit gutted that the first time I buy a half decent set-up and this happens.
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