high ohms vs low ohms on mechanical mods

[PeterKuzman]

i aam buying a new mechanical mod but don't want to change my batteries every 2 or 3 hours so i am planning to increase the resistance on my tanks , how much will it affect the experience , does opting for higher gauges enhance the ramp up time of the coil so compensates for the higher ohms and lower wattages ?

planning to go around 0.6 to 0.7 ohms

thanks in advance to everyone and much appreciated .

 

[sonicbomb]

Yes a higher guage of wire will have a higher resistance draw less amps and generate less wattage. Yes it will probably have a quicker ramp up. can you elaborate on the part about compensating as this makes no sense to me.

 

[PeterKuzman]

Yes a higher guage of wire will have a higher resistance draw less amps and generate less wattage. Yes it will probably have a quicker ramp up. can you elaborate on the part about compensating as this makes no sense to me.

for example if i used dual 28 gauge coils ohming around 0.6 ohms in total , will it give a hard hit as using dual alien coils ohming around 0.1 ohms ? or even near it

so in general i mean opting for higher gauges coil with lower heat capacity , will it still be hard hitting on higher ohms ?

 

[Steve Parry]

You can't fully compensate for a higher ohm build. That being said, I do a similar thing on a couple of my mechs. My recommendation is to build a smaller inner diameter coil with higher gauge wire to get up to your desired resistance.

If you're typically using 5 wraps of 22 gauge on a 3.5 mm bit, for example, you might want to go up to 26 gauge, down to 2 mm id, and keep it at 5 or 6 wraps. You can use steam engine or whatever to figure out what gauge and id you need to keep a similar number of wraps and get to the desired resistance.

You can't fully compensate and get the same experience, but you certainly can get a useable vape that will work for you at a higher resistance using these methods.

 

[PeterKuzman]

You can't fully compensate for a higher ohm build. That being said, I do a similar thing on a couple of my mechs. My recommendation is to build a smaller inner diameter coil with higher gauge wire to get up to your desired resistance.

If you're typically using 5 wraps of 22 gauge on a 3.5 mm bit, for example, you might want to go up to 26 gauge, down to 2 mm id, and keep it at 5 or 6 wraps. You can use steam engine or whatever to figure out what gauge and id you need to keep a similar number of wraps and get to the desired resistance.

You can't fully compensate and get the same experience, but you certainly can get a useable vape that will work for you at a higher resistance using these methods.

thank you very much man , you helped a lot , and finally found someone that did this , beacuse it has been a theory of mine from using steam engine and been curious about the heat capacity of the coil , i couldn't have tested it myself as in my country there is no 28 gauge wires (only 24 gauge and premade aliens and claptons) so since its gonna work and still hit hard on higher gauges with higher resistances , then i am going to order the wire from abroad to be shipped to me

 

[Steve Parry]

thank you very much man , you helped a lot , and finally found someone that did this ,

No problem. Hope it works out well for you.

Another factor that steam engine doesn't consider since it's not the coil is voltage drop. Every mod has some, and the higher the amps the more current gets lost to the inefficiencies of the device. You're battery might be at 4.2, but with a .1 ohm coil you're only going to be getting around 3.7 volts to the coil even with a "hard hitting" mech mod. Going up to a .5 you'll increase that voltage to the coil. On the same mod you would get closer to 4 volts. Of course, the less efficient the mod is, the more of a "gain" you get by going higher in resistance.

That's what I use it for. I've got an old mech that, at .18 ohms only gets 3.2 volts to the coil on a full charge. By going up to .5 I'm able to get 3.8 to the coil. It drops me from 55 to 28 watts, but by using a 2mm id coil and 28 gauge wire, I get quicker heat up. So I cut back the airflow a little and get a good vape that way.

 

[PeterKuzman]

wow

No problem. Hope it works out well for you.

Another factor that steam engine doesn't consider since it's not the coil is voltage drop. Every mod has some, and the higher the amps the more current gets lost to the inefficiencies of the device. You're battery might be at 4.2, but with a .1 ohm coil you're only going to be getting around 3.7 volts to the coil even with a "hard hitting" mech mod. Going up to a .5 you'll increase that voltage to the coil. On the same mod you would get closer to 4 volts. Of course, the less efficient the mod is, the more of a "gain" you get by going higher in resistance.

That's what I use it for. I've got an old mech that, at .18 ohms only gets 3.2 volts to the coil on a full charge. By going up to .5 I'm able to get 3.8 to the coil. It drops me from 55 to 28 watts, but by using a 2mm id coil and 28 gauge wire, I get quicker heat up. So I cut back the airflow a little and get a good vape that way.

wow that is new information to me , so if i am using a mech mod with center 510 pin rather than a hybrid one , it would be much better to go hihigh in resistances to benfit more from that mod ?

 

[Steve Parry]

wow


wow that is new information to me , so if i am using a mech mod with center 510 pin rather than a hybrid one , it would be much better to go hihigh in resistances to benfit more from that mod ?

Not necessarily. Some are very efficient, even with a 510 connection. In depends on the materials, design, and craftsmanship. The fewer "joints" the better. So a single tube 18650 is better than an adjustable 18350-18650 that requires you to screw on extensions. Metals matter too. SS has lower conductivity than brass, and copper and aluminum are much more efficient.

Silver plated contacts help, and we'll machined threads conduct the current better than sloppy ones. Whatever you have, it will be most efficient when properly cleaned. Built up gunk in the threads or on the contacts also causes voltage drop.

Think of it like a garden hose with a pin hole in it and a pressure nozzle on the end. If you close of the nozzle then turn the water on very low, you'll get a slow dripping from the hole. If you turn the water up really high, you'll get a stream of water shooting out. That's how the inefficiencies work in a mech mod as you go low and increase the current.

For most mechs, it just limits how high you can get as far as wattage is concerned. For very inefficient mods, there's a point where voltage drop becomes exponential. Meaning, the lost current of dropping .01 ohms in resistance is greater than the increased wattage you get from the drop. You can tell when this happens because the threads or switch on your mod will get hot where the current is escaping.

 

[PeterKuzman]

Not necessarily. Some are very efficient, even with a 510 connection. In depends on the materials, design, and craftsmanship. The fewer "joints" the better. So a single tube 18650 is better than an adjustable 18350-18650 that requires you to screw on extensions. Metals matter too. SS has lower conductivity than brass, and copper and aluminum are much more efficient.

Silver plated contacts help, and we'll machined threads conduct the current better than sloppy ones. Whatever you have, it will be most efficient when properly cleaned. Built up gunk in the threads or on the contacts also causes voltage drop.

Think of it like a garden hose with a pin hole in it and a pressure nozzle on the end. If you close of the nozzle then turn the water on very low, you'll get a slow dripping from the hole. If you turn the water up really high, you'll get a stream of water shooting out. That's how the inefficiencies work in a mech mod as you go low and increase the current.

For most mechs, it just limits how high you can get as far as wattage is concerned. For very inefficient mods, there's a point where voltage drop becomes exponential. Meaning, the lost current of dropping .01 ohms in resistance is greater than the increased wattage you get from the drop. You can tell when this happens because the threads or switch on your mod will get hot where the current is escaping.

form what it looks to me from the detailed answers you give, you are pretty much a pro , so what do you think about this setup , Wismec rx machina using Sony vtc5a with nudge rda on top with dual 28 gauge 5 wraps coil with 3 inner diameter ?

Or using a smpl mod (stainless steel with brass button) with my already existing serpent mini 22 (has non-adjustable protruding 510)

what do you think about this setup and which do you think is better ?

as you can see i am looking for cheap mechanical mods so that's why i am going to buy one of those , next to my already available regulated mod

 

[Steve Parry]

I personally would go with the SMPL from those choices, just because I'm not familiar with the Wismec. Might be good, might be bad.

Have you considered a Rig V2 with Roughneck clone? They can be had pretty cheap, and the Roughneck screws directly on to the Rig replacing the 510. I have the authentic not the clone, mind you, but it is the hardest hitting tube mod dripper combo I have.

 

[BrotherBob]

i aam buying a new mechanical mod but don't want to change my batteries every 2 or 3 hours so i am planning to increase the resistance on my tanks , how much will it affect the experience , does opting for higher gauges enhance the ramp up time of the coil so compensates for the higher ohms and lower wattages ?
planning to go around 0.6 to 0.7 ohms
thanks in advance to everyone and much appreciated .

Welcome and glad you joined.
Please plan to do it safely, might like to read:
http://best-e-cigarette-guide.com/e...cigarettes/sub-ohm-vaping-perks-and-problems/
What is Sub Ohm Vaping? Our Sub Ohm Vaping Guide & Tips
https://spinfuel.com/sub-ohm-vaping/
Battery safety
Care and Use of 510, eGo and Variable Voltage Batteries
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/7-information-resources-for-your-first-rba.4454/
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/ecf-sub-ohm-advisory.562106/

 

[Alter]

I still enjoy some good mech vaping. With a mech your at the mercy of your batts, the older or more used the batts are the less vape time you get. I never did low ohm builds using a mech just for the safety factor nor ever consider a hybrid 510. The thicker the wire, the more power to ramp up the coil to proper heating temp so batts drain faster then the batts begin to poop out when your trying to get the vape after the ramp up.
Subohm vaping is super hard on batts in a mech with being easily over-discharged and degrading its lifespan.
With mechs...clean and shiny contacts, 510, and threads is a constant must. Floating 510 or adjustable is nice but some(I assume) still have solid 510 so you hope your atty's pin is long enough. Getting some sorta heat sink is also a good idea(be sure to match the size of the atty and/or mech, they range is widths) cause the 510 threads on a mech is its weak point and can strip or wear out. I use the heat sinks on all my hitters to save the threads.

 

[BrotherBob]

buying a new mechanical mod

Glad you liked the post, here a little more about mech's:
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...ners-guide-to-your-first-mechanical-mod.4830/
mech_starter_guide - electronic_cigarette
Mech Mods
why do people choose a mech over regulated?
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/15-inexpensive-mechanical-mod-rda-setup.6589/
Mech mods exploding: history repeating, with no end in sight / Vaping.com - Your One Stop Vapor Shop | vaping.com
Volt Meter 510 Connector by Tobeco
Mech mods & RBAs: Basic to advanced user guide: Pts. one & two | E-Cigarette Forum