Higher Wattage Builds May *Save* Battery Life

[-KT-]

I know this seems counterintuitive. I did some math and one factor that I was not looking at originally was average length of inhale. I know when I do higher wattage (low ohm) builds - I tend to do shorter inhales.

I think this is because I am kind of aiming for a certain heat and throat hit - and I can get that faster at higher wattages. On lower wattages, I tend to do longer hits.

See: https://goo.gl/KACSD3 for an editable spreadsheet that illustrates this. I suck at math - so if any of the formulas don't make sense, please let me know!

Anyway - if I double the wattage - but tend to take 1/2 the average inhale time - I will still get same approximate battery life. Or at least that's what this seems to imply.

 

[Kickingthesticks]

Good info, still wouldnt switch my vaping style just for battery life. This might help others tough. Thanks for sharing

 

[-KT-]

Good info, still wouldnt switch my vaping style just for battery life. This might help others tough. Thanks for sharing

Thank you. I'm now thinking that vapers will kind of unconsciously adjust their vaping styles to keep nicotine intake at a certain level. Or at least that's what I do.

This makes me think that battery life is based more on desired nicotine intake than on more "obvious" factors. It's thus highly likely that high/low mg juices also play a factor.

But yes - I tend to like long draws myself. This causes me to like higher ohm builds, since I can do a long relatively warm draw at fairly low (sub 10 amp) power usage.

That being said - I'm running two pre-made coils at .23 ohms right now. Taste is awesome, but if I take longer draws - with the 12 mg juice I am using - it makes me dizzy!

LOL, it should! It's drawing over 20 amps. Sucks that juice right off the rayon like a vacuum cleaner.




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[Letitia]

I just vape when I want on what coil I want. Love the idea of longer batt life, but not as much as I love vaping in a way that keeps me in my vape happy place.

 

[listopencil]

Well I was aiming for 0.90 today and my coil read 1.10 instead. I monkeyed with it a while. I tightened up the coil under heat with ceramic tweezers, I moved it around on the fasteners, just kept fidgeting with it. Unfortunately when I was done it came out at 0.75 to my surprise. I also cut my cotton a bit thin because I was so tired of having to work the fluffy stuff through the middle of my coils. And I diluted my juice with more VG than normal as I added a harsher flavor than I intended. So, I ended up with an airy vape that is giving me a higher Wattage than I am used to and it is puffing like a tea kettle. I am definitely taking shorter hits off of the thing.

 

[bombastinator]

Yep. This is why the power company charges you in watts per hour. They have a standard 110v. With both wattage and voltage variable it gets more complicated, battery but a higher wattage doesn’t necessarily mean a higher voltage. You could probably save more power yet with a custom ramp profile.

 

[-KT-]

Yep. This is why the power company charges you in watts per hour. They have a standard 110v. With both wattage and voltage variable it gets more complicated, battery but a higher wattage doesn’t necessarily mean a higher voltage. You could probably save more power yet with a custom ramp profile.

Yes, as you know - at a given wattage, increasing voltage lowers amperage. I'm not sure how that affects batteries however.

I guess the power companies know voltage, so they choose to bill us by kilo wattage.

They could choose to bill us by amp hours. I'm guessing there's historical reasons why they chose kilowatts?

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[bombastinator]

Yes, as you know - at a given wattage, increasing voltage lowers amperage. I'm not sure how that affects batteries however.

I guess the power companies know voltage, so they choose to bill us by kilo wattage.

They could choose to bill us by amp hours. I'm guessing there's historical reasons why they chose kilowatts?

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Trying to remember high school science here but iirc if you think of electricity as water volts are water pressure, amps the size of the hose, and watts are Volts x amps, so it’s the amount of water (sort of) and watts/time would be total amount of electricity
Some of your higher voltage setups were running lower volts for less time so you got a lot more puffs. Remember once your battery is pushing a lower voltage than you are using, the mod has to compensate. The process isn’t wildly efficient and your battery starts to drain very fast. Keeping you volts under what the battery can supply makes the whole process more efficient and you can extract more energy from a given battery

 

[-KT-]

Trying to remember high school science here but iirc if you think of electricity as water volts are water pressure, amps the size of the hose, and watts are Volts x amps, so it’s the amount of water (sort of) and watts/time would be total amount of electricity
Some of your higher voltage setups were running lower volts for less time so you got a lot more puffs. Remember once your battery is pushing a lower voltage than you are using, the mod has to compensate. The process isn’t wildly efficient and your battery starts to drain very fast. Keeping you volts under what the battery can supply makes the whole process more efficient and you can extract more energy from a given battery

That makes sense.

I was wondering how some of the newer mods can output *both* high volts and high watts. Then in a thread someone pointed out they use "circuits," LOL.

I agree that if the circuit doesn't have to do magic (or whatever circuits do) then there's likely less loss of efficiency (since circuits themselves take juice to do magic).

In a car I used to own, my headlights would dim everytime the bass got loud. The stereo was attempting to draw more amps than the lowly 30 amp alternator could generate. I put in a 1.5 farad stiffening capacitor between my battery and amp. This capacitor was the size of a large thermos bottle. I only have a rough idea of why it worked. But it worked. No more headlights dimming in time with Metallica.

That story is not directly on point.

This stuff is still black magic to me, however!

ETA - I remember that there was a very specific way that the capacitor had to be installed. And you had to use a special resistor to discharge it if you ever removed it. It was a little scary, actually.


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[bombastinator]

Trying to remember high school science here but iirc if you think of electricity as water volts are water pressure, amps the size of the hose, and watts are Volts x amps, so it’s the amount of water (sort of) and watts/time would be total amount of electricity
Some of your higher voltage setups were running lower volts for less time so you got a lot more puffs. Remember once your battery is pushing a lower voltage than you are using, the mod has to compensate. The process isn’t wildly efficient and your battery starts to drain very fast. Keeping you volts under what the battery can supply makes the whole process more efficient and you can extract more energy from a given battery

This is why I’m having so much trouble running my ageis with the aromamizer 7 plus. I want to keep under 4v to extend my battery life. The problem is getting a flavorful vape when I do it. I finally kind of gave up and went to 4.1 which helped the flavor, but means that the half full mark means my battery will be dead in under an hour. I might try the high wattage trick and see if it works for me.

 

[bombastinator]

That makes sense.

I was wondering how some of the newer mods can output *both* high volts and high watts. Then in a thread someone pointed out they use "circuits," LOL.

I agree that if the circuit doesn't have to do magic (or whatever circuits do) then there's likely less loss of efficiency (since circuits themselves take juice to do magic).

In a car I used to own, my headlights would dim everytime the bass got loud. The stereo was attempting to draw more amps than the lowly 30 amp alternator could generate. I put in a 1.5 farad stiffening capacitor between my battery and amp. This capacitor was the size of a large thermos bottle. I only have a rough idea of why it worked. But it worked. No more headlights dimming in time with Metallica.

That story is not directly on point.

This stuff is still black magic to me, however!

ETA - I remember that there was a very specific way that the capacitor had to be installed. And you had to use a special resistor to discharge it if you ever removed it. It was a little scary, actually.


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The mechanism is known colloquially as a joule thief and is why VV mods “pulse”
Joule Thief Battery Charger: Bring Back the "Dead" | Make:

 

[-KT-]

This is why I’m having so much trouble running my ageis with the aromamizer 7 plus. I want to keep under 4v to extend my battery life. The problem is getting a flavorful vape when I do it. I finally kind of gave up and went to 4.1 which helped the flavor, but means that the half full mark means my battery will be dead in under an hour. I might try the high wattage trick and see if it works for me.

Or higher ohms?

I have taken to carrying around a mobile phone charger. I don't really think it's a 10000 mAh charger, but it was cheap and works on anything that can take a USB charge.

I'm probably killing my batteries using this thing - so I am hoping either my mod or the charger has protection circuits. I understand 18560's like 1/2 amp charging.

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[QcVaper]

I'm with @Kickingthesticks on that one, don't see myself changing my vaping style for battery life unfortunately but very interesting indeed.

NB: I don't really change how i vape, only the wattage (i have a large range at which i like to vape depending on when lol mostly between 50-70 watts)

 

[bombastinator]

Or higher ohms?

I have taken to carrying around a mobile phone charger. I don't really think it's a 10000 mAh charger, but it was cheap and works on anything that can take a USB charge.

I'm probably killing my batteries using this thing - so I am hoping either my mod or the charger has protection circuits. I understand 18560's like 1/2 amp charging.

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Thing says 2.0amp output so you’re totally fine. If you’re carrying that around though you could just get a tether pass through and cut out the middle man though. If there is such a thing as a tether pass through device still and if it doesn’t cut itself to ribbons in a week or two through sheer unadulterated lousy manufacturing. Neither of which I have seen.

 

[-KT-]

Thing says 2.0amp output so you’re totally fine. If you’re carrying that around though you could just get a tether pass through and cut out the middle man though. If there is such a thing as a tether pass through device still and if it doesn’t cut itself to ribbons in a week or two through sheer unadulterated lousy manufacturing. Neither of which I have seen.

I only tend to use it when there's no other choice. Normally I charge at home with a fairly wimpy phone charger wall wart thingie.

My mod is a SMOK G150. It has internal 18650's. Seems to last pretty good. I try to not charge to 100 percent and not let it get below 40 percent.

I also try to avoid vaping while charging. Luckily I have a little Target Mini mod for backup.

When I get more money, I want to get a VooPoo Drag or similar. I'm not one of those people who starts big. As I learn more things, then I kind of increase the cost of what I buy.

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[Wraith504]

That makes sense.

I was wondering how some of the newer mods can output *both* high volts and high watts. Then in a thread someone pointed out they use "circuits," LOL.

I agree that if the circuit doesn't have to do magic (or whatever circuits do) then there's likely less loss of efficiency (since circuits themselves take juice to do magic).

In a car I used to own, my headlights would dim everytime the bass got loud. The stereo was attempting to draw more amps than the lowly 30 amp alternator could generate. I put in a 1.5 farad stiffening capacitor between my battery and amp. This capacitor was the size of a large thermos bottle. I only have a rough idea of why it worked. But it worked. No more headlights dimming in time with Metallica.

That story is not directly on point.

This stuff is still black magic to me, however!

ETA - I remember that there was a very specific way that the capacitor had to be installed. And you had to use a special resistor to discharge it if you ever removed it. It was a little scary, actually.


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My special discharge resistor back in the day to discharge capacitors was a long insulated screwdriver.

 

[-KT-]

My special discharge resistor back in the day to discharge capacitors was a long insulated screwdriver.

Cohones!

Sounds like what I used to start Fords when they had bad starter solenoids.

(My screwdriver, not my cohones - that would hurt!)

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[Letitia]

LMAO

 

[-KT-]

LMAO

It would be hard to explain to the doctor as well.

"Well, I needed to start my car and I had this crazy idea . . "

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