How do you repair hairline cracks in tanks?

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CountingCrows

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Hello Everyone,

I have 5-6 pieces of Kangertech IKEN AKD tank. I love these tanks, they are top airflow, never leak.

However, they started to get small hairline cracks and started leaking. They are discontinued many years ago.

Here is the tank: https://www.vaporauthority.com/products/genuine-kanger-iken-starter-kit-akd-series

How do I repair these? Many days I am looking for food-grade epoxy/sealant, but none of these are for continuous contact. I ordered these two:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...2&pd_rd_w=XxOcQ&pd_rd_wg=jXjnh&ref_=pd_gw_unk

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1608...=1&keywords=loctite+595&qid=1634840895&sr=8-3

How do you repair yours?

Many thanks!
 

Opinionated

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I've never tried repairing any tank..

You might hop over to the classified section and start a wanted thread for a replacement tank.. many members stocked up and you might be able to find one from a member that has extra..

You might also find a new replacement tank if it's just glass in a different brand.. if the size is correct any brand will work:

ReLoad 24mm RTA Glass Tank Replacement by Reload Vapor USA (1pc)

^^^ to see what I mean.. it's just a regular glass tank that is separate from the sleeve covering yes?
 
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Opinionated

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Thanks Opinionated but this topic is about repairing the tank. I don't think anyone has or carries these, discontinued long ago.

I am positive some people attempted to seal the hairline cracks on their beloved tanks before.

When replacement tanks cost 2 or 3 dollars most people don't repair..

Good luck!
 

CountingCrows

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When replacement tanks cost 2 or 3 dollars most people don't repair..

Good luck!

Except when they don't. Some tanks are expensive, glass is built-in.

Normally it is silly to introduce some adhesive/sealant to this and I would throw it right away... but I can't find the tanks any longer. I also can't find alternatives with proper top airflow (leak-free).

Also the sealant/epoxy above carries food-safe FDA approval of article 175.300. I bit better than using just anything I guess.
 
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CountingCrows

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What's cracked, the metal or the glass?

It is the plexiglass. Polycarbonate, perhaps. I don't know what it is.

Somewhere it was written as "borosilicate glass" but i don't think it is glass, or borosilicate. Nothing happens to real borosilicate. I have coffe cops... so thin. They have fallen to floor, hit the granite countertop... No damage. Borosilicate is real strong.
 

CountingCrows

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You might also find a new replacement tank if it's just glass in a different brand.. if the size is correct any brand will work:

ReLoad 24mm RTA Glass Tank Replacement by Reload Vapor USA (1pc)

^^^ to see what I mean.. it's just a regular glass tank that is separate from the sleeve covering yes?

Sorry Opinionated, I did not see you added to your post.

The plexiglass part has airflow channels in it. Regular glass won't do. Also, i tried to take it out of hte metal sleeve... I can't.

We should leave this Kanger aside... I think I should have asked the question differently, but I can't edit the title:

"What epoxy/sealant is safe to be used on equipment that will be in contact with e-liquid"
 
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UncLeJunkLe

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    I have to agree. if it's got hairline cracks, I don't think it's glass. Polycarbonate can fog and crack with certain juices. That's pretty crappy if they are advertised as glass but are actually plastic.

    Honestly, not much you can do. You can try those products you linked to and that's about it.

    Polycarbonate were all we had back in the early days and in all my time here on ECF, I never remember reading threads where people talk about repairing plastic tanks and certainly not glass ones. People have always just thrown them out, I think. But you can try using the search for solutions.

    I can't even suggest any other tanks that take those same SSOCC coils because, as far as I know, they are all bottom airflow. And you won't easily find them anymore, anyway.
     

    UncLeJunkLe

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    The plexiglass part has airflow channels in it. Regular glass won't do. Also, i tried to take it out of hte metal sleeve... I can't.

    It'll be impossible. The Kanger Protank 4 is a tank I love, but it has fixed glass and there's no easy way to get it out. It's sandwiched between the top inside of the tank and the bottom pressfit piece. Even if I could remove that pressfit part, it's unlikely I would get it back together without breaking the glass. I doubt I could even find the proper sized glass tube for it anyhow, lol.
     
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    CountingCrows

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    It'll be impossible. The Kanger Protank 4 is a tank I love, but it has fixed glass and there's no easy way to get it out. It's sandwiched between the top inside of the tank and the bottom pressfit piece. Even if I could remove that pressfit part, it's unlikely I would get it back together without breaking the glass. I doubt I could even find the proper sized glass tube for it anyhow, lol.

    I will start a new topic in order to be more focused on what I need.

    I have many protank 4's as well. I loved them, too. And still use them. But they never cracked with me. Iken is the next one. It is a great tank, never leaks.

    I tried many atomizers or mods over the years. I am not finding anything to replace neither the tank, nor the mod.

    Tank: No leak top airflow. Fantastic.

    Mod: So lightweight for 5100 mAH. In fact, Wismec RX2/3, Vaporesso Luxe II etc are twice heavier. Mod is just right weight, and shape. It does not fall over when you put it anywhere.

    It is a shame that Kanger went out of business.
     

    CountingCrows

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    But you can try using the search for solutions.

    Solutions are not good. People use tape, glue... They are crazy. You can't have all these chemicals leaching into your liquid. I am hoping someone experienced with safety can chime in. I am already reading many days SDS's of many products from Loctite and it is still not clear to me what to use safely.
     

    Feuille

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    Not 100% certain that it will work for polycarbonate if your tanks turn out to not be glass, but JB Marine weld seems to glue most things, is food safe and strong up to 120C, so should be ok for a tank. You can do tiny joins with it, but unlikely to be able to do a totally invisible mend, but you could use specialist paints over the top.
     
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